USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
Deamon-2000 Composite Performance V-Tail EP Glider 2000mm (ARF)
The Deamon 2000 is one of a devilishly good range of exclusive Hobbyking Performance gliders that offer you quality, looks and speed at a saintly good price.
The Deamon has a nicely finished composite fuselage and expertly built and covered balsa wings and tailplane. As you would expect, the wing is removable for easy transportation & fast field assembly, also the Deamon uses a V-tail configuration for excellent speed and handling. There is a comprehensive hardware kit supplied and for the final touch, the canopy is carbon fiber.
There is no doubt, the Deamon 2000 has been designed for performance, with the right set up, this model offers excellent speed and the airframe offers superb handling, this is a nice quality ARF model that any RC Pilot would be proud to own, performance was never so affordable!
Features: V-Tail configuration Removable wing for easy transport CF canopy and wing tube Easy build with instructions included Excellent quality Composite fuselage Excellent flight performance
Requires: Your own 4 Channel TX/RX with v-tail mixing 28mm Brushless Inrunner Motor up to 1800kv 4 x 9g servo 1600~1800mAh 3s Lipoly Battery 30mm Folding prop spinner 40A ESC w/BEC
When you by a Hobby King plane just know the instructions will be non-existent and you will have to do some mods. I love this plane that said it is a quirky build. I used Spectrum metal gear low profile servos in the wings and installed with servo tape. You also need to put another layer of monokote or some stickers on the other side or I fear the monkote will tear through the wing over time. I also had to notch the back of the wings go to get it to sit properly where the wing screws are. I found that 33P-Sol****rvoA107 (metal gear) fit perfectly inside for the v-tail with no mods. There is no support for the v-tail so strip the monokote sand the wood and the fiberglass (to key it) then glue it with epoxy. Also you need to glue in the wing pins that hold in the front of the wings. (After my first flight the wings fell off on landing.) I glued them and have flown it several times since then, with no issues. Finding a motor that fits and that supplies enough power is difficult. Value Hobby makes a G force motor* the 450 model with a 10X6 or 11X6 prop is perfect for me. All the in runners I found the props are just too small for this plane.
Over all this is a beautiful plane as a powered glider, thermal soarer, or slope soaring. (Although I have not tried it for slope) It is by no means a hot liner. Could it be?? With enough time, talent, and money a barn door could! Would I buy this again??? Yes, it is a beautiful plane that wants to fly, fly fly. Turns many heads and will last a long time.
Hears is the deal! If you know a lot about building Hobby King planes are cheap and most are built fairly well. (Though I did see one a scale plane bust in half on a light landing!) They all, except for the foam planes, require lots of minor modifications. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU’*RE DOING ON BUILDING BALSA PLANES DON’*T BUY IT, UNLESS YOU HAVE SOMEONE WHO CAN HELP YOU WHO DOES. PERSONALY I BUY HOBBY KING BATTERIES BUT STAY AWAY FROM ALL THE ELECTRONICS!
I agree! And I have a drawer full of COOKED motors that benched out great! it should have a cooling hole in the front! Don't forget the holes in the backplate! They sell one at another dist. This is the way to save motors in these tight glider glass fuses. How about a mini F1 nose?
Value Hobby makes a G force motor* the 450 model with a 10X6 or 11X6 prop is perfect for me. Motor stays cool. PERSONALLY I BUY HOBBY KING BATTERIES BUT STAY AWAY FROM ALL THE ELECTRONICS!
HI guys,
I am quite interested in this glider, but im not sure how to gon in the way of set up, and there are so many great comments below, but i still cant decide what to do for set up. bascially i want to use my 3s 2200 lipos, on this, and i just want a motor,prop,spinner, esc set up that is effecient, long flight times, but still powerful enough for climbs, and prefrebly can all be baught on hobbyking!
any tips and info would be greatly appreciated!
Who can help me? I used the Turnigy 2632 1500kv motor and the model flies very well, beyond my expectation, however the engine firing on only a few flights, I put another 2632 1500kv motor and also burned, which would be the ideal engine and propeller?
You need more cooling! That plane has no venting built in. I had the same problem! There are a couple of ways to improve that.
1. Drill holes in firewall in front of the motor intake vents.
2. Get a better spinner with cooling hole in front. There is a carbon fiber spinner with a vent in front that works well here on HK.
3. Make sure none if the electronics block the stream of air that must pass through the body and exhaust out the back.
4. I would use the motor just to climb to thermal altitude, then shut it off to cool while you thermal around.
5. Reduce the prop size, drop one pitch size to climb better but sacrifice speed! Or drop one diameter to increase speed but less climb.
6. That's a high KV for big diameter props on that motor, what size are you using? I would think an 8x6, 9x4. Check temps with laser spot temp gauge.
Even holes on the sides of the fuse next to the motor . Some high current racers have to put scoops! It's the nature of slim fuses on high performance gliders, welcome to the club!
Just a suggestion, I would use the Turnigy 2836, 950 or so kv. Then you will slow down the RPMs and be able to swing a larger diameter prop! This is also capable of going to 4S if you want. But you'll need to use a smaller prop if you do!
You NEED a watt meter! It would have saved your motors! Also the 40A Turnigy Plush ESC works great!
building assistance:
i bought this and have a few questions.
1) the kit calls for a 1800kv in-runner, anyone have a good motor choice
2) the control wires for the elevator/rudder have a lot of flex, there were no wire tubes to stiffen the wires. has anyone had problems with the wires flexing
3) how does the V-tail go together? is it epoxied to the boom
Anything is possible, but in this case you'll have to strip the covering off and build them into the balsa framework. Or you can use spoilerons! That's what I use, works well and is just a matter of mixing ailerons with spoilers. Your Tx has to have this ability.
Mine doesn´*t.
Only balsa ribs and the covering. However, it has some balsa covering oracover in the leading edge and near the wing joiner.
Hope it helps
If you are a good pilot so you buy/us the digital metal gear servos - stronger slower BB. Synthetic gears spring-loaded in servos.Servos for V-tail MG/BB 1,8 - 2 kg/ max 14 g. To wings us stronger servos BB MG 2-2,7 kg.max 14 g. 9 g micro servos tend to nylon/artificial gear.
it's fibreglass/epoxy fuselage - very normal... and the bend towards the back is so the control rods for the tail run straight - no friction = less servo load
Simple question
Kindly inform me about wing and V-tail structure of Daemon-2000
Balsa Rib cover film ? or
Balsa Rib Balsa sheet covered Cover film or
Plastic core Balsa sheet cover film
i was thinking about converting this for slope instead of motor-thermo. what do you guys think? i am looking for something at least somewhat fast, with good float to it.
Since it needs the nose weight anyway, why not finish it as intended? The prop folds out of the way when power is off and there would be no weight savings in leaving the power system out only to have to add lead in the nose for balance. This isn't really designed for speed so it probably won't burn up the ridge like a purpose-built sloper.
this will slope well in light lift - it will not be suitable for stronger winds as the risk is the wing will not be up to it - it's primarily a thermal plane - for sloping in heavier (windier) conditions you will want a composite rather than built-up wing - either obechi covered foam wings or hollow moulded wings - such as Pacer G007 etc
To solve the small diameter motor's problem, I thought I would chop off front nose till it fit 36mm motor..?
Do advise if what I am doing is acceptable in terms of performance with shorter nose?
Thanks for the reply. I ended up routing out the layer of balsa wood so that the doors are flush with the wing and the screws that hold the door on can be screwed into the hard wood. Now I am looking for slim servos to mount on the panel. Although this plane has cause me some Hmmm moments, I'm still excited to get this in the air.
You'll need some servos thinner than 10mm. They have to be at least 1.8-2kg torque, BB/metal gear. I don't know of any that size. That small plate would have no affect on the aerodynamics, but it will give you enough room for 9g BB/Metal gear, high torque servos, but they are all 10-11mm thick. The special thin servos are too big for the opening, and not any thinner as they are for larger gliders.
If I see some that will work, I'll let you know!
Good Luck.
I have a little problem understanding how the servo doors get mounted as the doors I have are much bigger than the hole. Are they meant to not mount recesssed in the wing?
That's a good place to start. Maybe a little forward of it. It's not too sensitive on the CG. Add a little differential throw in the ailerons, 70/30. Flys great!
This is not a hotliner, it just looks kinda like one. This is a high performance thermal catcher with a HN354 airfoil. You want something you can stick a 35mm motor in and go Mach1 on 6S! Then you want a high speed airfoil and at least an Obeechi covered foam wing. There is a 2.5m here that's a good hotliner.
Pacer G007-H
It's more a warm liner because it uses a scale-like fuse which is pretty but more drag. It also has a long, high aspect ratio wing, more than a hotliner needs. But this will thermal well at a good speed, so it's kind of two planes in one. But the stiff Obeechi covered foam wing with a thin high speed airfoil this plane can hit some high speeds, but still thermal.
Any tips for a slower/mild setup for this? Newby, prefer slow but forgiving setup, good run time, rather than speed. Would like stuff that fits standard. Also want carbon fibre look blade.
Ek-trician says torque of an outrunner is better. "Turnigy D2836/9 950KV swings a 12x6 on 4S" best? or 3S option with less weight?
Suggestions?
For what you want that is plenty of power. With that motor (the same one I am using) you can climb very steep, almost vertical, but slow. I recommend the 3S as you can put as big a LIPO as will balance the plane. But make sure it's all the way forward as otherwise your adding dead weight. It will turn 10,500RPM (unloaded), that's enough to run a 12x4-12x6. If you buy a watt meter (a must for this exact reason) you can experiment on the bench with what prop pulls the correct load for you ESC and motor. With the right prop you can stretch 5 min. flights to 8-10 mins! Most of the wattage is drawn in the last 1/3-1/4 of the throttle. If you prop it so you can climb like you want on 3/4 throttle, you will almost double your run time.
Thanks Ek-trician. Will play with a few different props. Care to recommend a HK ESC for that setup (with BEC and brake to stop prop yeh?). Best first guess at right 3C size, say 1800mah? Anyone have an answer to Venci's question about getting a carbon-fibre spinner on these 4mm motors? (carbon fibre props and spinners look sweet *-)
Yea, that's a tough one. I looked everywhere and can find allot of 30mm spinner prop combinations, but none with a 4mm collet. So I bought the same brand spinner in 44mm which comes with several collets including 4mm which I hope to use on the 30mm spinner. Hope this works! I'll let you all know when it gets here in a few days.
So much for my idea. Got the big spinner today, the collet will not fit the smaller spinner! So I found an aluminum spinner here that's 3mm. After carefully measuring the glider's nose, a 32-33 will look good, the nose measures 32. So the specs are wrong again. HK just cost me another spinner. I would also try an 11x8 prop with a Turnigy Plush 40A $28, or the HK 40A, it's cheaper and both have brakes. 1600-1800mAh, 3S, 30C LIPO, looks good so far.
OK, this motor is too lite and even though it will fly it at a good cruise, it lacks a little on climb. If you update it to a 4S it's better, but still takes too much lead to balance it. So I changed to the Turnigy 480S 1370kv. Motor is twice as heavy but on the 3S system it's still 1.5ozs tail heavy. So I put the 4S system in and it balances perfect- no lead. Using an 11x6 it skyrockets to thermal altitude. The motor has a cooling fan on the front and needs it. As all inrunners run hotter. Make sure you cut two intake holes about 1/2"-5/8" behind the front of the fuse. This will let air into the motors fan. It will fry if you don't! The only problem I had was finding a 32mm fold/prop spinner with a 4mm collet! Isn't made!! So you have to either drill out the collet, (good luck) if its just a 1/2mm off it will vibrate like mad! I was lucky and had a 4mm collet that fit the spinner. I had to drill a hole in the adapter shaft and tap it for the spinner screw. The beauty is at half throttle (10 min flights) you can zoom through all the aerobatics and high speed passes. Just be careful on the Gs, it's a strong glider but will pull up sharply at high speed due to the under amber airfoil. Remember it's not a hotliner!
Thanks for update on recommended gear Ek-trician. Haven't ordered mine yet, about time I get on with it - now you guys have supplied 'full instructions'! Much appreciated.
Graupner USA non vented 32mm x 8mm route, for various size shafts. Better Aeronaut Turbo vented, 33mm vented plastic spinner/various shaft sizes available, spinner only, separate 38/8 yoke, various CAM folding props with with 8mm route. Esprit model.
Flew this sweetheart for hours yesterday. Finally got it sorted out and it is a slippery excellent flying glider now, with 5-6 seconds to reach thermal altitude. Shut it off and thermal. A couple of last minute trims... The ailerons must be set for 70/30 differential throw, rudder works, but is weak, larger ruddervators would be nice. All-up 1470g, I added an 1/8" ply plate under the wing bolts. Bolts on balsa scare me! I set the ailerons for 60 getter negative flap for landing, it has such a high LD I couldn't get it to stop flying and land, overshot runway several times. With negative flaps you can fly it down and it won't gain speed, lands nice and slow. Smooth aerobatics, on or off power, does not bleed speed! Cuban '8's with power off is not hard. Great plane at twice the price, once it's set-up right, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!!
How much negative flap? "spoiler" did you try? Did it cause a need for mix to elevator, up? or down? I will program for landing switch accordingly. 60 on ailerons, I assume you meen 60% of to the limit. I used 1/32" alluminum under wing bolts soked bulsa with thin CA through needle, strong light no drag.
45-60 degrees up for the spoileron. Nope no elevator mixing needed! I actually hold a little down to keep it in a slight dive to get into my field. Have to clear trees. It's great doesn't speed up or drop drastically. When I get a few feet off the deck, I just ease off the down and slides in nice. Shortened landing by 40%!
Nice mod with the aluminum plate!
Is it enough to use an outrunner 250-300watt 11x6 prop motor for this glider...? its hard to search for a 28mm motor that above 300watt as what i understand, it needs minimum 500 watt setup that only 35mm motor can produce to become a hotliner....suggestion?
First, this is not a hotliner. It may look like one, but with an open bay balsa built-up wing and a high lift airfoil, this is a thermal ship. It's racing looks keeps it light with low drag, yet fast enough to fly out of sink when your hunting thermals. A 2936 950k with a 10x6-11x4 on a 3S will give this glider an almost vertacle climb without tons of weight added. If you want more speed you can up it to a 4S and a 9x6. Use a watt meter to bench the set-up so you don't fry anything.
But be careful, too much speed and Gs will pull the wings off this very light thermaller!
Hazel,
I gave up on the 2836 outrunner. This plane is very tail heavy, so buy the the time I got it flying right I had to add so much lead that I decided to try a big inrunner. Works much better and no weight added! See my comment about the Turnigy 480S 3054 1370kv inrunner.
Clean the fiberglass with Acetone, then rough-up the mating surfaces with 60 grit sandpaper. 15min epoxy does the trick. Make sure it's straight or you will create allot of drag.
Yes it would be good, just bolt a 30mm spinner on the front and go fly. This way if you want to add power later you can. Carefull pulling high Gs, this is not a slope racer.
Sheeted leading edge to main spar, open rib "D" box wing. This is a slippery, light, floater that can thermal on a breath! That is if your full of as much hot air as I am!
Sheeted with what? Glass? Balsa? Does that mean a fiberglass D-box? I just says it has a balsa wing... So it has a balsa D-box? Do you own this specific model? I know that R2hobbies has a glass D-box version of this with ailerons and flaps and an aileron only version with a regular balsa wing... I'd like to know for certain If this has a fiberglass D-box.
Yes I own it. It is a ply & spruce D-box with balsa sheeting top and bottom. R2s is the same. The fiberglass D-box is only on a different plane, not this one. That is the only regret with this glider, no flaps! It's nice to have reflex for speed adjustment and crow for landing in small areas. I was going to buy the one with flaps, but when I saw HK with this one, I am holding out to see if they add the other EPG with flaps because they are cheaper here.
The CG is just in front of the high point in the middle of each wing panel. Yes you will have to use rudder in the turns as with all high lift airfoils and a high aspect ratio wing. Set them up for 30% differential (ailerons go up 30% more than they go down) this will reduce the adverse yaw and the amount of rudder you need to use on the turns. The plane is a good floater because it is light and has a big wing with a low wing loading, but can get it going in a shallow dive due to the thin, low drag airfoil. It has a wide speed envelope. EXCELLENT AIRCRAFT!
Of corse i'ts impossible to fit a 4s 4000. I was saying that i have allready a hotliner, my question was to inform me if this glider is a good buy even I have a real hotliner and i really love speed gliders...
This glider is a GREAT BUY! Wide speed envelope, excellent thermaller with a very high LD so it can fly out of sink. With a 1/4 or less throttle you an comb the skies for lift until your neck is sore. You'll need a chair. Also it's light weight and wing loading allows it to slow down on calm days to sniff- out even the smallest lift. It lands so easy I catch it some of the times. But this is NOT a hotliner, or even a warmliner.
What weighs 2010gs? This plane only weighs 800-900gs?
If you are referring to the shipping weight that's not too far off as big wings need big strong boxes. It may be padded who knows? But this plane is $179 from the other vendors, so...
With all these nice gliders coming in, we really need some performance motors gearboxes so we can run larger props en get much better climb rates. Some 2KW F5B drivetrains would be nice too
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
Andy
7 likes
Value
Quality
1 thumbs up!
Plane in good shape from shipping, no problems there. Assembly of this glider has not been straight forward. The included instructions, or should I say diagram are not helpfull at all. Space for mounting servos which must be 10mm's or less wide or they will pop up through the top of the wing. The fuse needed some adjustments as the wing didn't fit. Had to remove the pre-installed servo tray as my 9g servo's sat too high and rubbed on the bottom of the wing. Had to remove the push rod tubes and reinstall as they had glue in them and the provided push rodes bound up to much so had to go with thinner gage wire. I have had this plane for a month or so and while I spent al ot of my time looking for small, I mean really small servos, I have put a lot of time in just trying to get the plane ready for a test flight. Would I recommend this plane...probably not unless you like fixing something that is brand new and you have time.
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Marko75
14 likes
Value
Quality
1 thumbs up!
The kit does not include a building instruction, especially nothing is said about how to get the V-tail mounted.
The spar connector goes is this hard to get in that I haven't dared to put them in all the way since I'm afraid that I will breach the wing by doing so. I need to investigate this further, most probably there is glue somewhere in the tube which I need to grind out.
Also: The craft quality of the cover foil is questionable - I need to iron all surfaces - E.g. less than 50pcnt of the ribs are ironed! The leading edge of the wings has some zick-zack lines and are not proper ironed. It looks a bit like that it is better not to cover the wings an simply to put a roll of foil into the package. The wing root has the foil ironed around the edge (ok), but is not ironed to the root rib (bad).
In general the kits quality needs to be improved. From what I see I would rather buy the original www.link really like Hobbyking and it's products, just the quality of this kit didn't meet my expectations.
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Marko75
14 likes
Value
Quality
1 thumbs up!
While building this plane I again and again realize how incomplete it is. Eg.g: The holder for the V-Tail is missing - so you are better good in laminating your own fiberglas or carbon parts!
The pins which hold the leading edge of the wing are missing.
All controls need to be reworked since they do not deflect enough upwards.
There is a 1mm gap between the rips and the leading edge balsa cover.
The spar connector is called to be carbon, but the part in the kit is fiber glass. The part also did not fit into the wings. The problem is that this part is supposed to be 5.8 mm, but the actual part was 5.87 mm and so did not fit. You have to grind it down until it fits into the wings (very dusty work!).
The wing screw holes are not drilled - so you have to figure out yourself where to put them!
There is no nut epoxied into the fuselage for holding the V-Tail - so you need to do this also yourself.
There is no jig as in the original Raptor from www.r2hobbies.com which helps to get the V-Tail right.
There is no manual. The info sheet has no information about the V-Tail angle. The mentioned COG is wring (outside of the wing!).
I mentioned in my earlier review already that the cover foil is purely applied. you need to tape the front edge in order to prevent it from being blown of in the air.
While I'm very disappointed with the kit, I keep building - I just wished I had bough
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Marko75
14 likes
Value
Quality
1 thumbs up!
After complaining about the Quality of the Kit Hobbyking simply responded: "Buy one of our other planes." For sure this one was the last model I bough here!
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Marko75
14 likes
Value
Quality
1 thumbs up!
Continuing building the kit: more complains: The wing does not fit into the fuselage. You have to sand a LOT of fiberglass in order to make the wing fit.
The hardware kit in not complete and the quality really bad. I did build a lot of planes (RC and full size) but still broke some of the installation hardware due to the fact that they did not fit. For the V-Tail they provide one (1) push wire for the elevator - whoever planed this pack didn't realize that the plane got a V-Tail.
I spend already many, many hours correcting kit mistakes. I hope I can provide at some point a flight review - for now I still have a lot to build.
Copyright 2012 Hextronik Limited.
The HobbyKing.com®, OrangeRx, Turnigy, Durafly, nano-tech and other brand logos and names are trademarks of hexTronik Limited.
All rights reserved
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
