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HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V3.0 (Atmega328 PA)
Based on the popular and already well supported KK Control board, the Hobbyking Multi-Rotor control board is bringing Multi-Rotor madness to the masses with its breakthroughs in quality and price!
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor control board uses Japanese Murata piezo gyros that are less sensitive to vibration than SMD type gyros and also features state of the art SMT manufacturing to ensure quality. This board also uses a user programmable Atmega328PA IC.
Specs. Size: 50.5mm x 50.5mm x 23.5mm Weight: 14.5 gram IC: Atmega328 PA Gyro: Murata Piezo Input Voltage: 3.3-5.5V Signal from Receiver: 1520us (4 channels) Signal to ESC: 1520us
Whats is a Multi-Rotor Control board you ask?
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor controller is a flight control board for multi-rotor Aircraft (Tricopters, Quadcopters, Hexcopters). Its purpose is to stabilise the aircraft during flight. To do this it takes the signal from the three on board gyros (roll, pitch and yaw) then passes the signal to the Atmega328PA IC. The Atmega328PA IC unit then processes these signals according the users installed software and passes control signals to the installed Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs). These signals instruct the ESCs to make fine adjustments to the motors rotational speed which in turn stabilises your multi-rotor craft.
The HobbyKing Multi-Rotor control board also uses signals from your radio systems receiver (Rx) and passes these signals to the Atmega328PA IC via the ail, ele, thr and rud inputs. Once this information has been processed the IC will send varying signals to the ESCs which in turn adjust the rotational speed of each motor to induce controlled flight (up, down, backwards, forwards, left, right, yaw).
Note: A user manual is available under the files tab. *Royalties paid on each unit sold to Rolf, the original KK Designer.
Hi. Does anyone know about slow rotation problem on motor 4? I'm using the XCopter configuration on this FC, but after all configuration tests done as required on HK manual, I put the propellers to test the gyros but when I set the 1/4 throttle and I noticed the motor 4 is too much slow than others. I changed the motor and the problem remains, I changed the esc and the result is the same and finally I changed the Motor Channel between 3 and 4 and the motor 3 become slow and 4 runs fine. I have user the KKMULTCOPTER FLASH TOOL 0.72 with firmware XCopter V4.7 KK from the internet repository. The escs are HK BlueSeries 12A and the motors are Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2822-1275. Other issue is the arm cannot be done using the TX Turnigy 9X which cannot reach the yaw command to the right, and due that the arm is reached after take the connector from channel 4 on RX and reconnect it. Due that I decide to changed to FUTABA 7CAP which works perfectly. Regards Edney
Hi.
Does anyone know about slow rotation problem on motor 4?
I'm using the XCopter configuration on this FC, but after all configuration tests done as required on HK manual, I put the propellers to test the gyros but when I set the 1/4 throttle and I noticed the motor 4 is too much slow than others.
I changed the motor and the problem remains, I changed the esc and the result is the same and finally I changed the Motor Channel between 3 and 4 and the motor 3 become slow and 4 runs fine.
I have user the KKMULTCOPTER FLASH TOOL 0.72 with firmware XCopter V4.7 KK from the internet repository.
The escs are HK BlueSeries 12A and the motors are Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2822-1275.
Other issue is the arm cannot be done using the TX Turnigy 9X which cannot reach the yaw command to the right, and due that the arm is reached after take the connector from channel 4 on RX and reconnect it.
Due that I decide to changed to FUTABA 7CAP which works perfectly.
Regards
Edney
Hi any idea what's the best flash for tri copters
Tried 2 very Un stable flips wobbles adjusted
And keep adjusting
Is it the board
Maybe I've been spoilt by the kk2
Thanks
Firmware for the H frame is similar to a quad in x configuration. Try programming your board with Kk 4.7 xcopter firmware. Try your best to place the board on yiur CG point, it make setting up easier. The CG for the H Frame should be at the intersection of the imaginery lines drawn between the motor shaft of diagonally opposing motors.
It almost ate me. Forgot to turn the radio on the first time. ( don't do that ) Front end comes up from the right and crashes over on it's back. Tried adjusting the pots per the download site with little or no results. I started with yaw and pitch set to 50% and roll to "0". Not sure what to do next. Any Ideas?
If properly setup the craft should not start up as you mentioned without being armed first. Need more detail on your setup before anyone can give any meaningful advise.
I think I do, it runs 1234 clockwise. I have read where someone had a 1342 Clockwise and I tried it but the right front always jumps up no matter what I do. I have reversed the giro from normal to reverse and still same response.
Which firmware are you using ? On the KK 4.7 X the motors setup are as follows: Front left : 1. cw Rear left: 2 ccw Front right: 3. ccw Rear right 4. cw.
Always do basics setting with no proppeller. Just put a little tape's piece to see the rotation.
Toujours faire les 1er tests/ré*glages sans hé*lice! Mettez un bout de scotch sur l'axe de chaque moteur pour voir le sens de rotation.
I do tape now, didn't know that at first. Thought I had it yesterday then it flipped over again readjusted gyro to reverse, same thing again. New board should be here soon.
as long as you have batteries with the same mAh and same number of cells then when you connect them in parallel you will double your mAh, but keep the same voltage.
Got my HK board and it worked for " O " flights. It worked at first, now it won't pair up with the radio anymore. Any suggestions??? I'm at a loss.........HELP.
Try : remove props, move stick to lower right and wait to see if the radio get paired), lower left, upper right, upper left (maybe your controller got reversed somehow). Also try with the trim (when stick down right, adjust the trim on your controll to right to)
OK, found out why it would not pair. The rudder must be set on 100% L&R or the Turnigy 9X will not pare. Don't understand it, but that made it work. Now I need to know why I cannot get full up and down speed control with the throttle any Idea?
I didnt understood what was the problem, but have you tried with the trim on the throttle? You can also try to resync the ESC's (the yaw on zero, throttle max... I guess you know the rest)
Mabye you can try connecet a servo on the throttle and one on the elevator on your Rx and compare the movment (to see that the Tx sends full signal when you have full throttle).
my prop sizes are 8".
yeah when you use t6config what setting do i put.
and my esc are plug n play. i didnt buy the programming board. i need it to hover at least. my project is dues in on 17th.
help anyone?
I'm new to quadcopters. ive build a quadcopter and all motors are running but i cannot get any lift. all motors are running in correct rotation. also 1 motor starts rotating before others. and im using a hobbyking tx. what percentages should the channels be at?
any solutions?
What prop size are you using? Do you mean percentages of hovering? if so about 1/3 - 2/3 throttle. Is the one motor starting way ahead of the others? If it's just one more step on your throttle before the others start running it is not a problem, if you like it might help re callibrating your esc's.
Agree with smyger, try recallibrating your esc. Are you sure you have set the props the correct way? Hold your hand under a propell and spin it the way it would spin when throttling. If you dont feel any air you have to switch prop with one of the oposite prop type.
I can not get this card to work, no LED blink when power is given, no reaction to arming procedure, tried trim adjusting.
Battery -> ESC -> Control board
I have checked for 5v out from the ESC and it's ok, if I connect ESC directly to receiver they work.
Also tried connecting control board to pc with USBasp, gives me target didn't answer, tried connecting both ways, also 5v is supplied during this.
Have I got a defective controller card?
Are you sure that the connectors are plugged in the correct way around, ground is along the outside of the control board. If they are the correct orientation then check the soldering on the connector pins, they are soldered by hand and I have had a few dry joints on these boards which may cause this problem. How many motors are you using?
Check whether the Rx is working first. Remove Rx from KK board, plus in servos to Rx throttle and Ail channel, power up Tx than Rx and see if you have any respond. If no respond, check your Tx settings.
I am new to quad copters i bought 30A ESC'S,Brushless DC Outrunner Motors-1800kv,FS-CT6B 6ch 2.4GHz transmitter & receiver,HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V3.0 (Atmega328 PA) PROBLEM:IN THE TRANSMITTER THE LEFT SIDE STICK THAT MEANS DIRECTION ELEVATOR IS WORKING FINE.BUT IN THE RIGHT SIDE STICK THAT MEANS AILERON THROTTLE STICK AND REMAINING SWITCHES ARE NOT WORKING IN THE TRANSMITTER.I ALSO CHECKED THE TRANSMITTER BY CONNECTING TRAINER PORT TO PC ALL STICKS ARE WORKING ARE FINE PLS HELP ME OUT. THIS IS THE IMAGE SHOWN target=_blank>FS CT6 B
I am new to quad copters i bought 30A ESC'S,Brushless DC Outrunner Motors-1800kv,FS-CT6B 6ch 2.4GHz transmitter & receiver,HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V3.0 (Atmega328 PA)
PROBLEM:IN THE TRANSMITTER THE LEFT SIDE STICK THAT MEANS DIRECTION ELEVATOR IS WORKING FINE.BUT IN THE RIGHT SIDE STICK THAT MEANS AILERON THROTTLE STICK AND REMAINING SWITCHES ARE NOT WORKING IN THE TRANSMITTER.I ALSO CHECKED THE TRANSMITTER BY CONNECTING TRAINER PORT TO PC ALL STICKS ARE WORKING ARE FINE PLS HELP ME OUT
mine was exactly like yours but it wasn't flashed. i'm going to flash mine. maybe parameters were wrong. can you plug your board to the computer and check the settings? maybe they are not on.
The standard FW that come with this unit is in the Plus configuration, if you want any other configuration you have to reprogramme it, so you need to get the usbasp to do so.
Is this better than the i86? It looks like the KK2 is gonna be out of stock and Im building a quad for a customer who may not want to wait a month for it to come back into stock and another month for it to get here. Im torn between the two.
The i86 uses mems gyro and therefore more thermally stable and with i86 you do not need to programme it for the flight configuration you want, its a matter of setting the switched. This makes it alot easier to setup. The downside is that the i86 has a disarming problem in the firmware, can be overcome with throttle hold on TX. The answer - i86 better.
It does not, the last shipment was with the 1.2 Fw which has problem with SL. You need to reproramme it with 1.5 for self leveling to work properly, check out the file Tab on Kk2 page for instructions on how to reprogramme.
Sorry for spaming... My quad fianly flies good. However, there is one thing I havent found a solution on. It is slowly turning right. I have set the yaw at 100% and the rudder trim on the controller left. If i set the yaw at 90, 80%.. it turns faster. So i should set the yaw to 120%. Any tip how i could solve that? Maybe it is one of the motors that have got some damage? If so, any idea how to find out witch?
I would set your yaw at %100. Hold your quad in your hand and slowly apply power until the blades are spinning, then move your rudder stick right and pay attention to which motors speed up this will tell you which motors could possibly be bad or which blades could be bad or not tracking.
I had same problem after I ***ped into the ground a few times, then the motor mounts was rotated sligtly so it did not push air straight down, but in an angle, then the quad rotated slowly. Not sure this is your problem, but worth a check.
I have some problems with the board. First of all, what is zero on the pots? If you use the picture above, is zero if you turn cw or ccw? As i have read, is it ccw, but on mine it is cw (Atleast i think so...)
I also have problems reversing (rudder and aileron). I follow the step with turning the roll to zero (one way nothing happens, the other way the led is just flashing). The quad stood 10 minutes with just flashing. Nothing happens if i turn the stick to both sides.
Also my rudder is realy strange (i use pluss). Turning right i increase rear motor and decrease left motor. Turning left i increase left motor and decrease rear motor.
I have not flashed the board, since i didnt buy the usb (i will now though)
Also, if i sync the motors (i think that is what im doing..) by turning the yaw to zero, the quad plays a entire symphony to me. I have understood it will play a bit, but i wasnt expecting hours of beep, beeepe, bep, beeieeeep.
However, the quad flies not to bad. I cant hover, and cant fly it, cant use rudder, but it lifts and flies for 3 secs before i decide to land it to not crash. It is realy difficult to fly. Any tip???
I had same problem figuring out what was 0% gain on the pots. 1. I solved it by just trying both way, when you have your yaw-pot set to 0%, then the motors will play the beat you are saying, then it is time to take your throttle stick fully up(max throttle) for maybe 1-2 sek, then decrease it to no throttle, then the motors should play another beat telling you that you have callibrated the esc's. Then you can unplug your battery and return the yaw-pot to where you want to fly with it(100% recomended). 2. when you try to reverse the gyros(roll-pot 0%) a LED on the board blinks rapidly as you say, which indicates you should move the channle you want to reverse in both directions. Say you want to reverse the yaw-gyro, move yaw stick on your controller fully left then fully right, might be you need to use the trim to left to come even further left and the trim to right to come even further right, if done corectly, the board will stop blinking and the gyro is reversed and you can unplug the battery and return the roll-pot to where you want to fly with it(you can use 50% as a starting point). Hope you can find some of this info usefull.
Thank you, this was very usefull info. I got the calibrating to work (i had to yaw to zero, throttle full, power KK, move throttle to where i want it to start and back up again). But a stupid question... My aileron is not correct. If i push right on my aileron stick i increase right motor and not left. I tried to reverse aileron (roll zero, power kk (now the led flash 1 sec and motors beep like they are waiting for input), move stick to left (the led start flashing at once..) and then right and power off kk). So i think then it is reversed. But still when i turn stick right the rigt motor increase. Is this right? Do i need to reverse my controller to or didnt i get it right?
Nevermind, i think i got it (for others: you are reversing gyros and NOT as i asked for. You have to reverse controller to. Best way to find out what needs to be reverse is holding the quad in the air with no propellers and soft power. When you push the quad front down the back motor should stop and front should increase. Same to the side.) I have read so much so i got so confused. I have done so many different calibrating, so i also manage to reverse whats full and whats zero on the pots. I got to test it 1 minute before the battery had to be charged, and seams like it flies good now
Hello. There are two questions
1: Is there any way i can install the original firmware to these?
2: I have flashed these with a new plus configuration firmware, but when i put my elevator stick forward my back motor does nothing. Any ideas as to why?
im putting together 2 copters one has 4 motors and my friend has a 6 motor setup. i have the hex files. just having a hard time programming them. would someone like to program them if i send you the boards and the files???? if so send me a, email to mrmetal60*yahoo****
do all the boards need to be flashed first??? im so new at this. have a atmega168pa kkmulticopter board ver 5.5 not sure how to start. as far as loading the hex file.
HK boards comes preprogramme in the PLUS configuration, you have to check with your supplier for the 5.5 board with regards to preprogramme FW. The best place to start on programming the boards is to go to RCgroups and search for KK boards programming. There are loads of information there.
Robert, this board comes stock with a rudimentary plus config firmware loaded on it. Even flashing it with plus firmware available on the "flash tool" will perform MUCH better. However, these can be flashed to do just about anything you want and if you don't like it and want some other configuration, it can be reflashed. Lately, due to so many other boards that are inexpensive and very easy to setup for multirotors, I've been using these for airplanes.
Bryan, The controller is usually powered by the ESC's BEC which supplies 5V. Then through the Ail, Ele, Thr, Rud connections, the RX receives power. Only use one ESC to power your multi, pull the center wire from the other three and tape them back with masking tape or something. Some ESCs are OPTO and do not supply power so in this case, you would need a BEC to power everything. Just plug it into the Batt/Bind terminal on the RX to power everything. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
I built an H-Quad scratchbuild and I'm using the KK v3 board and the Turnigy 9x transmitter. I have the following connections made from the receiver to the board:
Channel 1: Aileron
Channel 2: Elevator
Channel 3: Throttle
Channel 4: Rudder
I'm 99% sure that those connections are correct, but when I test it, I get the following motors spinning faster when I move the control sticks:
Elevator up: front-left, back-right
Elevator down: front-right, back-left
Aileron left: back-right, back-left
Aileron right: front-right, front-left
Rudder right: front-right, back-right
Rudder left: front-left, back-left
This is obviously not what I'm expecting to happen. Does anyone know how to correct this problem?
Thanks in advance.
your tx-pin connection seems to be correct. it sounds like your esc connection is wrong. different firmware types use different pinconfigs. If you still run on the preinstalled firmware I recommend to flash it with KapteinKuks or (Kim Misoos firmware). Motorsetup for KapteinKuk is:
FL: M1/ FR: M3/ BL: M2/ BR: M4.
Does this controller supply power to the receiver via the Ail/Ele/Thr/Rud connections?
Or do I have to tap into the flight battery separately to power up the receiver?
Thanks for any help. It's my first quad build.
This control board has a common ground and 5V pin on the four receiver inputs as well as the motor outputs. Your receiver will therefore be powered through any of the aileron, elevator, rudder or throttle channels. Alternately if you are flying a quad, you can power the receiver separately from either the motor 5 or motor 6 outputs just be sure to disconnect the signal wire (white or yellow) from your jumper.
rabdooly, The controller is usually powered by the ESC's BEC which supplies 5V. Then through the Ail, Ele, Thr, Rud connections, the RX receives power. Only use one ESC to power your multi, pull the center wire from the other three and tape them back with masking tape or something. Some ESCs are OPTO and do not supply power so in this case, you would need a BEC to power everything. Just plug it into the Batt/Bind terminal on the RX to power everything. Hope this helps and Happy flying!
:Hello from India: This comes with an Atmega 328 so more memory (although almost all firmwares can be installed in 168).I made successful quad for my project using the v2.1 .now making one currently using this one .If anyone from india needs help mail me at biki.nitc.sahu@gmail.com
The best KK Board with lots of memory storage for future R&D codes enhancements.
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A buddy of mine oredered this for me. It is very easy to setup, I was really surprised. Seems very stable, Compared to all the other controller boards on the market you can have stable flight for less than 30.00 USD. The whole setup cost us less than 150.00 and that is amasing. Because some other setups cost about 299 - 500. Very happy with this setup. Thank you again HobbyKIng for some more great products.
I am so sick of getting burned at the local hobby shops. A set of 3.5mm bullet connectors cost 3.75 for 3 males and females. You can get 10 sets for 1.34.
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