Plush 12A-E Brushless Speed Controller The pulsar series ESC are a very good quality controller. They have a broad range of programming features and a smooth throttle response compared to other BESCs int he same price range. You will find the throttle curve very linear.
Our TURNIGY speed controllers come with a 14 month warranty. We guarentee these are the best Brushless Speed Controllers you can purchase at this price. These speed controllers are sold in western countries under various names at triple the price. We are certain you will find these to be the best BESC available from Asia.
Spec. Cont Current: 12A Burst Current: 15A BEC Mode: Linear BEC : 5v / 2A Lipo Cells: 2-4 NiMH : 5-12 Weight: 13g Size: 32x24x10mm User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes. The programming card is an excellent Item and simple to use!
I have 4 of these in a Quadcopter. When I try to calibrate the throttle range by having the Tx on full throttle position and then connecting the battery on the model, the motors start up immediately at full power. This is very concerning.
Have six plush 12 amp flashed with blheli multi firmware default settings, running multistar 4225-390kv 14x7 prop and four cell lipo on a hexacopter weighing 5lb auw. Each motor is pulling about 3 amps. The plush gets way too hot to touch after just three minutes. Come short of better airflow, are there any changes to the blheli settings I can do to make it run cooler or more efficiently? I don't necessarily need all the power available. Blheli recommended medium timing, but I've always run low timing on everything, does this apply here too?
So many people seem to have issues with these. We use tons. We have never receiver a bad one out of the bag. I guess my question is: Do any of you get bad ones right out of the bag, or having issues during first boot up?
Here is one of mine running a KK2.0 with v1.5 Firmware. Turnigy 2122/1570kv motors, 12amp Turnigy Plush ESC's. Zippy 3S 4000mah, and an Xray Airframe, with a PolyFoam Trainer body
i only have 3,brought at different intervals.my only problem when i got my first .constant beeping on power up.manual suggested the throttle stick not at its lowest.was trying to set throttle calibration and couldnt do it.then from similar experience with another plane(pnf) i got the idea to lower the throttle trim on tx first which fixed the problem.i have had no other problems with all 3 esc's.would buy more if i need to as i think they are a good esc:)
I had this esc with a 500mah 2s lipo, and a 7a 1400 kv motor, programmed the esc. and when I had it all connected, it worked for maybe 30 seconds, then the battery got very hot, and the motor started to sputter back in forth instead of the continuos spin it was doing a second ago. I disconnected the battery, and it did not puff up at all. So anyone have any idea of what may have happened and how to fix it? Oh and fyi, the battery was fully charged at this time. Thanks!
hey Mista,larry below has similar problem to you,and everyone has been trying to help.it might be a case of a (bad batch)im no star when it comes to esc's(i have had no probs with this esc but as you know their can be many probs when setting up new esc so you troiuble shoot) so only thought i would share an idea.i did a resistance test with a multimeter to give you some results to test with your esc.they wont be exactly be the same but should be close to tell you if there is a problem.
you are testing ohns-setup multimeter,turn dial to 200k, touch /- togeather should read 0.00
test results connect /- to /- of esc reading 10.9 , to motor wire 21.8 tested all wires ,all similar reading.- to motor wire 10.6-10.9 tested all wires similar readings if you dont get close to these figure than their is something wrong.i tried to do a continuity test but my multimeter was playing up.if you have never used a multimeter here is a copy/paste to check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXHu6y94V60 but keep to my instructions or you wont get similar result goodluck (its worth a try if any)
Thanks DAJARAJA. I don't know how I missed larry's question before,but oh well. I did get the esc to work, but all I changed was waiting till next weekend to work on it. I guess all it needed was time.
I tried this ECS with more the one motor. The last motor was a new working motor and it did not start but just turned back and forth just a little but would not start.
Could it be a programming problem?Will the card I have coming take care of the problem?
Thanks for the help
When you power up the ESC, are you getting a little tone melody, then followed by some beeps? If not, then it sounds like you might have a bad ESC. If you pay attention to the beeps followed by the initial tone melody, then they'll tell you everything you need to know. If after the tone melody, you hear 2 short beeps followed by a long beep. Then that would indicate that you have your throttle reversed (the ESC actually thinks you're trying to calibrate the throttle range. If after the initial tone melody you get nothing but a reoccurring beep every few seconds or so, then that means the ESC is not getting a signal from the receiver, or more likely it could mean that you have the throttle trim set too high. The ESC will not initiate until the throttle is all the way down. The programming card is nice and makes programming the ESCs a breeze but it will have no effect on whether the ESC will spin up your motors or not. It's primarily used to change battery type, low voltage cutoff/type, timing, start mode, brake, governor, and music.
Three different motors will not start with this ECS. Yet They run with another ecs. I have been flying with my Tx yesterday so I don't think its a Calibration problem.Although its a starter Hitec neon it seams to work ok until I can move up in radios. Is there anyway to be sure its not a bad ESC ? I am not sure that's the total problem.
I will double check for a tone. Does any one make a alarm or some other rc product that might make it easy-er to hear the tones?
I have noticed that some ESC are louder then other brands. Just an ideal for us that have a little hearing problem.
Well, if you're 100% sure it's not the other equipment you're using (motor, receiver, Tx) and you've double checked to make sure the throttle isn't reversed, or the trim is set too high. Then I'd say it's highly likely you have a bad ESC. It's a ***mer, I know, but it does happen. I agree, sometimes out at the field, with a lot going on in the background, it's hard to make out the tones sometimes. Maybe add in a LED to flash along with the tones?
It might be my receiver . I know the throttle is not reversed as I have been flying with that Tx this morning.I can not find a trim switch on my Tx to check it. How would one add a Led to the system ? Does Hk carry anything with might work for that?
If not how would one be made/
thanks for your help..
The programming card is a very good investment and very easy to use, however make your battery connection to the esc DO NOT connect the battery directly to the programming card, my first one stopped working because of that.
I recently purchased this ESC and I am having a problem.
I am using a 2712-12 motor known as the blue wounder.The problem I am having is when I power up my system the motor does not start. Its vibrates as if its trying to turn but does not. What could be the problem ? My lipo is charged and all the connections are good. Does the ESC need to be programmed for this motor ? The motor starts fine with another brand of ESC and the radio gear checks out.
This ECS looks great but motor just kinda does a little shake. I have not let it keep trying to start the motor as to not burn up the ECS.
What should I do to get it working?
Thanks for any help...
have you tried throttle range check(manual,files),also i would try esc with another motor(if you can)if it has same fault then i would be looking at connections on the esc side wires if you havent soldered them directly to motor.i would have been thinking the connections.some times the connection can look good when it not.test- switch everything on ,apply a bit of throttle and wiggle wires.get help with this
I agree, if you can swap out the motor see if the same problem happens, I am guessing that it will. I recently put this together with a 1811-1500 and experienced a similar situation. The esc has programmable start mode and also programmable timing, along with many other options. My guess is that the esc is set to the incorrect 'start' mode.
i am going to try another motor. The first motor that i tried ran fine this afternoon with another esc on board. I have ordered a programming card so I will know if its a programming problem..
Thanks for the help.
if its the Turnigy D2836/9 950KV no it too small.specs on this motor is 23.2 amps max so your looking for a 25amp-30amp esc.tip - once logged onto hk site click on forum at top of page.click on beginners area( subject )how to choose an electric power system.you need to know the fundamentals on how things work togeather(batteries/esc/motor/prop).than go to reveiws for your motor looking for the best test results for prop/motor/battery combo if you dont have a watt meter.please dont be offended by my answer but your question is one of those questions that you have to factor in other things. goodluck
If you're looking for a specific size, I also have a mystery 12a that measures 28x22x8. I haven't had any trouble with it yet, but haven't used it much, it looks like others have had problems though. PRODUCT ID: MY12ABEC
Not sure that "refresh rate" makes sense for an output device like an ESC. Typically, "refresh rate" describes the rate at which an input device like a sensor provides new readings. Output devices like an ESC typically take whatever is provided to them for output values, and produce an output at their own rate. This ESC does 8 KHz PWM output, but that is completely invisible to a Multiwii implementation - it's irrelevant to output devices.
I see, well in that case I can say with very high certainty that the flip problem is not caused by the ESCs. You should look at the flight controller. I am not familiar with the MultiWii controller, but make sure you don't have a reversed gyro, also make sure your motors are connected in the correct plugs and that the orientation of the controller board is correct. If you've mounted the board the wrong way it could cause flips.
reversed gyro or incorrect gain adjustment come to mind. Check your gyro settings after you have double or even triple checked that your motors are rotating to the right direction compared to your controllerboards orientation.
I had same problem on a 2730 and a 2205,the shaft was spinning inside rotor.The allen screws that locked in shaft to rotor had vibrated out.
Factory forgot to use loc-tite on them.Replaced the allen screws used loc-tite solved squealing noise.
If the prop-saver or adapter is loose it'll squeal also.
Are these identical to the older ones which where red and slightly larger as I looked back on my order and this one shows up instead of the other ones. Its the same part number but are they the same because I have 3x older ones and 1 x new one and I am having problems with my quad.
The Plushes were upgraded to version 4 about 6 months ago,the red Turnigy Plush 12amp was much bigger and had much larger wires.
This is the old 10amp with a larger rectifier or polarized diode to supply the 2amp BEC.
This just doesn't have any punch like the old 10amp or 12amp.
It may still list the old versions on the direction sheet.Weight and size was bigger along with wires.
I cut away the heat-shrink,replaced the wires going from ESC to motor with larger gauge copper stranded wire,recovered with heat-shrink and it solved the problem.
Works just as good if not better than older version 12amp,red one.
Im thinking of upgrading my lama v4 into brushless and I dont know which esc to buy, this one or the turnigy 6a or the turnigy 10a. I read the reviews on the 10a, just too many negatives and the 6a im afriad ill fry it on 3 cell
It depends on the motor you are using. If it draws below 6a on a 3-cell, then the turnigy 6a plush should be fine. Google "Lama v4 brushless". The guy did a conversion using C10 motors and 6a plush speed controllers and it seemed ok. And just to let you know, the 12amp plush is very reliable, my club had like 10~20 of these recently, none of them failed.
Anyone experienced this? I have been flying a TT EHawk 1500 Glider whith the original setup, all well whithin the required motor specs, using one of these (Red standard shrink tube). Have been flying her occasionally mostly during holidays for more than 3 years now, as I bought her especialy for that purpose as this plane is fully demontable making it handy to carry in an airliner. 3 weeks ago during holidays in Spain I made a first flight under quite normal circomstances, temps high but not extremely. Let her go up with with approx. 5 sec. motor run, turned off the motor and no reaction anymore and the plane nosed down and down. Damage is not too bad and repairable. Aafter examination it was clear that the Esc had given up thus no Bec power for the Rx and servo's.....
Actualy I am very fond of mostly all HK stuff and Plush Esc's and use many of them is serveral models whitout any problems sofar.
Was this just bad luck or has this happened before with this Esc. before I use another again when repaired.?
I was allways a little afraid of this when using a Bec and no seprate Rx batt, but again I hardly have had problems like this before.
Thx. and cheers, JeffBr.
The Thunder Tiger eHawk 1500 brusless motor requires 12A-15A. But the Turnigy Plush 12A ESC can only handle 12A Max. and only short burst at 15A. You have to consider at a least a 20pcnt Allowance to ESC's Amp capacity. If you want to use the Turnigy Plush ESC's, I suggest you to use the 18A speed controller.
Thunder Tiger Air OBL 29/11-07A Has a Max efficient current of 14A And a Max current capacity of 17A.
With a 10x4.7 or a 10x7 folding prop will draw Max amp capacity of the motor. Turnigy Plush 18A is Ideal.
Hi Jay, thx for your replies and yes I agree with you that after all an 18A Esc might have been wiser, but I don't agree with the rest. Specs of the OBL read a max of 12A and also the Plush 12A has a burst rate of 15A, so I was well on the safe side. I used an Aeronaut 10-6 Carbon folding prop, same size as the cheap plastic one that comes with the plane so all in all this could not have been caused by an overload. Cheers, Jeff.
Forgot to mention that I allways check static Amp draw. As it was more than three years ago I can't remember exactly how much it was, but it was less for sure otherwise I would not have used this esc.
My esc is reducing power to 50% about 3min inti the flight. If i throttle back ti idle and then full throttle in one quick move then i get full power back for about 60sec and then it drops again. I reduced the voltage cut off to low but it didnt help. I do not think it is overheating. Any ideas?
no, batteries are fine and work great in other planes with the same type of motor and esc. i think its the esc, maybe the auto power reduction function to protect it from overheating is kicking in when it shouldnt. i moved the esc into the slip stream but havent had a chance to test it and see if that fixes my problem.
if you get 3 minutes of good run, then it's the batteries, and your application of their power in the specific airframe you're running. You haven't told us the whole story regarding what kind of aircraft you're flying, edf/tractor/pusher, it may have a more draggy airframe, or a different landing gear configuration. There are too many options that we don't know to give you clear guidance on.
I would suspect your batteries, and be greatful that your esc DOES cut the power after they are exhausted
i shortened the wires between the motor and esc, moved the esc outside the plane, and reprogrammed the esc to low cut off (when i tried to program it before I forgot to hit 'ok' on the programming card.
Now the plane is behaving like it should and I get normal flight times.
HK upgraded these to version 4 about 6 months ago.The old 12amp Plush was bigger in size and wires.This is the old 10amp board but with a different value rectifier.
I tried one of these and it just fades.Put in my old version of my 10amp or 12amp Plush,no more fading after 10-20 seconds whether on 2S or 3S.
Alot of flyers quit using these for what your describing.
I can't make it spin the motor up fast enough. It takes almost 80% of throttle and sometimes a couple of seconds before it stops stuttering and starts to spin. It's quite frustrating when I accidentally shut it off in the air and can't get it running again in time.
I'm using this ESC together with HXT 1300kv 24g motor and 2C lipo in a small 3d foamy.
I've got the turnigy programming card, and tried all 3 timing settings with no luck.
What should I change, the ESC or the motor?
I have 4 same esc with HXT 1500kv and 3S lipo.
All works fine with normal timing setup.
Disconnect the esc from power and the 3 wires between esc and motor.
Check your esc output with an ohmmeter. You may have about 22Kohms between 2 wires (check 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 wires combinations). If you find higher value (100K or much) or lower value (5K or less) then this esc is out of work. You also need to check the motor with the same ohmmeter. You may have about 0,3 ohm between 2 wires (check 1-2, 1-3,
La Bidouille, all readings are good and consistent. It seems to work fine when it spins up.
Nguyen, sure, I've done it plenty of times :) Still stuttering, even without a prop.
Anyway, another ESC is on it's way, as well as another motor. That'll answer the question which part to blame, I hope.
It actually doesn't matter!! You just connect them and if the motor runs the way(direction) you want, then leave it. If you want opposite rotating, switch ANY two wires and the motor will spin the opposite way. Simple as that!
Yup. If you want clockwise rotation, put the yellow to the middle esc wire, and the red and black wires straight in line with the others(ie. if the red is on the left, but it on the left esc wire, where it won't be crossing any other wires). Does that makes sence? That SHOULD give you correct rotation for a normal prop. If it spins the other way, just switch any two wires to reverse. Don't worry, you won't fry anything. I can't tell you why it works this way, just that it does.
so my 12 amp turnigy plush bec was different then this with a red heat shrink tubing on the outside, but i guess they changed it, and i got mine a while ago, anyways, I pluged the black red a white wire into the turnigy programming card where it says bec, and my 500mah 2cell lipo turnigy battery's red and black wire, into the one that said batt. on the prog. card.when i accidentally unplugged the batt. i plugged it back in, and it popped, and smoked! when it got unpluged it wasnt anything series just like i put it in loosly. did i do something wrong or was it a fluke? im new to rc vehicle stuff so im just wondering what happened so i dont do it again. thanks in advance!
Maybe the capacitor has exploded, when you plug the battery, the capacitor charge need a very high current in a fraction of seconds. Sometimes the solder melts because of the amperage or the capacitor explodes. It's not your fault :)
Sold a new capacitor or repair the wire can solve the problem. (Only if the problem is really that)
Your problem was plugging a 7.4v battery into the prog card. This would have fed 7.4v directly into the receiver plug of the esc, which is designed for 4.8v, hence smoke.
Next time, plug the esc into the card, but plug your battery into the esc feed.This will power up with 4.8v, as it should be.
All the Turnigy Plush ESC's are now version 4. This uses the previous version 10amp's board,components look identical,but it has the same electrolytic capacitor as the previous 12amp which is good,helps keep the BEC at 2amps. Works great on 5-8oz 3D EPP foamies and I've seen it work on Hkr A9 series motors,no sputtering.
8-16 Khz it depence from motor inrunner 16Khz outrunner 8khz
15 thumbs up!
Working nicely in a Blade Pro with E-Sky 3900Kv and 10T pinion, changing to 11T. Just gets slightly warm, the soft start was a much needed feature for the main gear preservation. Much smaller than a 25A and saved some weight!
1 comment. Reply..
DAVID M NORTH
13 thumbs up!
Excellent ESC for the price. Very smooth throttle response, as advertised. Extremely fine-grained control. Only problem is ramp up: it's very slow, even when set on "normal" (the fastest setting). Slower even than a Castle "soft start." This makes it questionable for 3D, but okay for most other applications. No problems at all running a bit overamp on a Formosa with 8x6 APC SF and Axi 2208/34.
It's official: Flight time on Blade Pro with this ESC running an Esky EK5-0005 3900Kv outrunner and 10T pinion: 11:15 mins. continuous hover. This is in conjunction with the 6A Turnigy Plush running the 18-11 2Kv outrunner on the tail with HIGH timing set and a GWS DD-4540 prop. Batt. is a 2s/1A 20C Zippy. Cheers!