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Programming Functions: Battery Type: Lipo /NiXX Brake: On / Off Voltage Protection: Low / Mid / High Protection mode: Reduce power / Cut off power Timing: Low / Mid / High Startup: Fast / Normal / Soft PWM Frequency: 8k / 16k Helicopter mode: Off / 5sec / 15sec (Start up delay)
I purchased three of this some time ago and now another bunch of this from NL warehouse, they looks identically but they don't behave the same.
Once I programmed the thr range of the new one to 1ms-2ms I'm no more able to enter the programming mode with a signal shorter than 2.1ms This also means I'm no more able to shorten the throttle range, for example to 1ms-1.85ms.
The older ESCs enter programming mode also with a signal shorter the upper level I calibrated before.
I do need to shorten the calibration range. How can I do? Erasing the EEPROM it will be a "hard" solution....
guys need to make sure the screws your using to mount your motors are not to long protruding into the copper wire in the motor. seen it so many times people sending me stuff that is "NOT WORKING" use shorter screws, start from there. another thing is these esc are no good for soldering motors directly to them being a small trace footprint to solder too.
hi, i just got one of these esc and when i try to throttle up with my park 250 and orange receiver the motor just stutters and will not properly turn around, what am i doing wrong ?
It seems that you didn't connect your motor properly or one wire is not conducting. Did you swap two arbitrary wires? Check if all wires are conducting all the way from the ESC to the motor coils...
I have the same problem as - same motor, esc and receiver. Have checked all connections and everything is ok. Motor runs perfectly with no load but as soon as you connect a propellor or hold your finger on it the chattering starts. Any suggestions anybody?
Problem: motor stutters/cogs/stops
Solution: follow this procedure:
1) make sure your motor mount screws aren't going into the motor and causing it to bind* if they are, use shorter screws or some washers between the screw head and the motor mount (note that you may have already damaged the motor coil beyond repair)
2) make sure nothing is binding in the driveline
3) set "startup" to FAST
4) set "timing" to HIGH
5) try it out and see if it works
6) if it still chatters or cuts out, re-solder all of your motor connectors/connections and try again
please send us via e-mal, it will better to follow your case,
support@hobbyking.zendesk.com
You:
htt p://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21247__Hobby King_10A_ESC_1A_UBEC.html
PROOF!
You:
IF you do NOT send a replacement, it will not bode well for your firm with other customers.
Ivy:
we will follow your case after you send us e-mail
Ivy:
please kindly send us e-mail about the product information then we can forward to our product specialist to further processing
You:
what is the original order # ?
Ivy:
order number is begin 200
You:
Invoice ID: 2004624385
Ivy:
have you send the email to us?
You:
yes
You:
exact copy of above
Kathy:
the email
Kathy:
please send the photo to us in email
then we will follow your case
You:
PHOTO is now a part of your WEBSITE, genius!
Kathy:
we need the photo of the item you have
Here are the results: their 10gram outrunner with a hyperdrive 5x3 on it... the Flightmax 800mA/15C pack and throttle set at half: over ONE full hour of running before unflyable speed degradation. Everything room temp also so gimme 3-4 months to run it and then I'll recommend in reviews. I went thru a half dozen of the Turnigy Plush 6A units as a tail rotor for a Blade CPP brushless setup and there was NO real reason for those suckers to blow out on a light loaded setup like that, we'll see how these fly scratch foamie UFO disks with about 8-10 LEDs hanging all over it. Thanks HK for the 3rd extra one, makes up for a lot of aggravation with those Plush suckers I went thru. They caused a ****load of crashes with the heli.
People need to keep in mind this cheap **** will cost them much MORE in trashed models and damaged servos/props/outrunners, landing gears, etc. due to these things unexpectedly going out like mine did and this is not the first. As stated in the past, you generally can't go wrong with Castle Creations made in the USA and you get English speaking people to backup their stuff. I was going to build a twin engine pusher UFO setup with that rig in the video, now AGAIN I'm sitting with my thumb up my a-hole and will not wait 2 weeks for a replacement from China. Basically, their J U N K has cheated me out of MOST the summer flying season and you would be pissed too if you were depending on this stuff to get a working model going. Seriously, I hate this company!!!
Please watch the VIDEO posted under the associated tab above, what the damn thing go POOF for no real reason except being connected. Note setup in video was working WELL 6 hours prior so NO, it cannot be my lack of wiring prowess.
Yes it will. The max current on the ESC is 10A and it can handle 3s.
Your battery can deliver 0.35 * 20 = 7A so this should be no problem for this ESC.
david,sory i did not see it during that time..by the way i recieve the esc here and i installed it to my jet..and it works fine.rigth now im waiting for the 3s batt.thanks again.
Hi eric,
go to the 'Files' section here on this page, right next to -Discusssion' and 'Reviews' - You will find the manual pdf there. It says 20A ESC but I'm sure it will work in the same way. You could also use a programming card. Hope that helps. I'd appreciate your credit..
Very good for indoor and park flyers. I fit on my 3d epo flatform and work. Well is. Very light without connectors. I weld. A motor wires directly to board esc. To save weight.
higher PWM only switches the FET's more, therefore generating more heat.
even high pole outrunners will do fine on 8khz if the timing is set right (higher is not always better)
cheers for the info bruv :) does it also apply to multirotors? ie quadcopters (4 motors and props running together to make vtol craft) like i like to build and fly?
herea a vid non auto level and auto level tests *) or heres the vid showing why you should buy flight controllers with onboard ACC at least which hobbyking doesnt sell :( but loads of other places do :)
i replaced the stock esc of the micro f86 which is 6A with this esc in order to use 3s battery and it flies great i just cut the wires to save weight and will stay in the recommended flying weight specs.thank you hobbyking.
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