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We are now proud to offer our Hobbyking YEP ESC series. With helicopter specific programming options such as super smooth soft start, fixed RPM mode (governor mode) and ultra high resolution, you wont find a better helicopter ESC on the market today!
We have tested these units on our own helicopters and found them to be among the best we have ever seen. The super smooth soft start, along with its ultra high resolution throttle response puts this ESC in a class of its own!
Hobbyking YEP ESCs are built with the highest quality components to ensure true-to-rating current handling and high efficiency operation.
All Hobbyking YEP ESCs can be programmed via optional programing card or by transmitter stick inputs.
Features: • HV capability for use with up to 14S (51.8V) Lipoly • Optional programming card for convenient setup • ESC had separate programming lead built-in so there is no need to unplug from RX • Super fine throttle resolution provides first-rate and highly accurate linearity • Super smooth adjustable start-up mode • Constant RPM mode (governor mode) • Adjustable F3A brake. • 3 steps adjustable normal EMF brake • High anti-interference capability • Low voltage cut-off protection with automatic adjustment for NiCd/NiMH/Li-Ion/LiPo/LiFePO4 • Soft cut-off option at low voltage, slows motor RPM gradual rather than hard cutoff (LVC) • Low voltage cut-off can be disabled • Variable cut-off voltage / cell • Active free-wheeling circuit allows for unlimited "partial load" capability • LED status display • Adjustable motor timing from 0° to 30° • Blocked rotation protection (senses a jammed motor and stops motor rotation) • Motor reversing from ESC (no need to change ESC/motor wires) • Over-temperature protection and overload alarm • Anti sparking circuit: reduces connection sparks • Throttle signal lose protection. If the signal is lost for 3 seconds, the power will automatically cut-off. • Safe power-on. (Motor will not start until throttle is returned to lowest position)
***This ESC is compatible with both helicopter and airplane models.***
Specification: Max Cont Current: 120A Max Burst Current: 140A for 10 seconds Input Voltage: 4-14 cells li-XX or 12-42 Ni-MH/Ni-Cd battery BEC: None (OPTO) PWM: 8~16 KHz Max RPM: 240,000rpm for 2 Poles Brushless Motor PCB Size: 68x53mm Weight: 164g (including wires)
Ist das auch so das mann an den Programmieranschluss des Fahrtregler ein Jumper Anschliesen muss,das der Regler einwandfrei arbeitet.
Und es muss ein Brü*ckenstecker mit Masse und Signal miteinander verbindet. ist das?
Look in the purple files section tab right at the top right of the discussion. Also you can download the YEG instructions from their site. They are identical.
HAS ANY BODY SPOOLED THIS UP WITH NO BLADES ON THE BENCH IN non GOVERNER MODE (gov off) WITH ACTIVE FREEWHEEL ON, AND NOTICE A SPOOL UP THEN A HUGE RPM DROP AND THEN SPOOOL BACK UP AGAIN?
Yes, this shows you the setup is not correct, such as tim/pwm. Maybe even the P/I gains are offO or even the battery voltage drops too far. It can also be an indicator the Fbl controller gov is trying to kick in but cannot see a phase signal?
I also just thought of something. How close is your esc signal wire to any of the motor wires? Interference can also cause this rpm variance. Even routing it too close to the Sat or Rx.
I thought that as well, but it doesnt do it under load with blades on, or when i take it out of "freewheel Mode" as long as it doesnt do it while flying im fine..i guessing it has to do with the "free wheel circut sensing no load?
Under the circumstances I would say that would be a valid guess. I had one that simply would not couple up with my Scorp 4035-630 no matter what I did with it. Yet it ran my other 700 class motors just fine. What is odd, the other Yep esc ran the Scorp perfectly. But I smoked that esc last week pulling high speed loops with my Goblin on its third flight, probably due to battery ripples under load. I added an HK heat sink to it and they tell me it was modified so no warranty? Ridiculous.
apsolutely perfect.... tried it on same heli... my friend has it, and mine is arriving.... take prog card too, you wont regret.... this is excellent esc!!! he has outperformed castle ice!!!
and what is also great it fits perfectly between frames in front of the motor!!! and always stays cool no matter what power demand you have for it.... order it while is in stock, believe me you wont regret
my 700 has arrived.... when will you restock?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
i ordered two weeks ago!!!! i want nothing else on my trex than this!!!!
GREAT ESC!!! anyone from hobbyking please stop this agony and tell me when will you restock?
set this with the program card to :"governor store" wich is a very very good governor :
once you 1st a little hover (with 80%-100% flat throttle curve on tx and 4V/cell in lipos) to a tail kick(small one this will not crah your heli) : the governor has stored the max rpm headspeed with your config.
after that you set your rpm with your tx on a flat
curve with a tachometer : for example: idle1 : 80% :2000rpm idle 2 :90%throtle : 2200rpm
in gov. store everytime you spool-up the gov will give the same rpm speed as first time you've set.
The things I've heard is .. "calibrate trottle stick" what works for me i 8khz. ..basically ..6beebs meens something is wrong in the startup, so of you've got startup speed to super high that can be a problem an so on, imho its WAY to sensitive..
The program card is Product ID 355000020 By the way, you normally find stuff like that listed under the Accessories section on the product listing page. The button is just under the "Add to Cart" button and is labelled "Acc". Hope this helps. :) Si.
Aluminium plates don't help if they can't dissipate the heat to the air. If you have good airflow around the ESC, simply cut a window in the shrink and remove the sticker from the plate, so the alu is exposed to air. This is sufficient for EDF planes when cooled by inlet tube airstream.
True only one side of them is against airflow. But those aluminium plates are secondary heat sinks here. These FET's are releasing most of their heat into PCB. Copper in PCB is acting as heatsink. And that board is hanging midair so both sides are cooled if some air flow trough.
Copper or aluminium in PCB is only a good heat conductor, but no sink if operated for several minutes. True, it would be best to have airflow through the assembly. If you have airflow on the plate surface only, there is still a natural heat flow from the inner FETs through the PCB and outer FETs into the cooled plate. That's driven by the temperature gradient. The metal core PCB helps to keep the total thermal resistance low. But it's still a dilemma with most ESCs. If we could cool them from both sides, we could squeeze much more power per weight and size out of them. Single sided cooling works, but it's always a compromise with double-layered FETs.
heatsinks should be effective over looks in my opinion. also another option that should be available soon is the JCooler for the YGE escs. a nice quality (made in germany) active heatsink/fan combo currently available for the kontronik escs. do a google search on them for more info, should be available soon guys.
Nah... Just don't want to give the impression that I am trying to "fake" it. Also, YGE heat sink is 1/3 of what this worth. So... call me cheap but a $10 heat sink will be more appropriate, IMHO.
is heat sink necessary? on rex700, 750mx motor, 4,4kW.... he is cool all the way.... even the motor is cold.... no matter 55% 80% 90% throttle curve, those two components stay cool!!! great esc!!!
hi where is the bug the boss feature?-
we need YGE 90 HV clones too-
120A HV is cool for 700 size but we also need YGE 90 HV clones for 600 and 550 with 12s lipo
I forgot to mention..you are also right..to surpass heat ratings requires addition of load and time...neither of which were applied narrows down your analysis pretty quick too...thanks for the tip ill keep that in mind...sorry for being sarcastic i just find your reply a ridiculous analysis of my prior comment , for which I hve elaborated a little more above for your benefit.. I am open to constructive criticism but not objective statements.. You sound very reminiscent of a guy on the Logo forum by the way..
You are right a good portion of us are engineers aren't we.... I know how an ESC works i know all about phase angles VVVF SCR circuits , timing circuits etc ... I know how to do the timing calcs blah blah blah and i know when I see smoke coming out of my motor ( and burnt laminate ) when it stalls during spool up when theres no mechanical issues that I'm not an idiot and that I am not talking BS...I actually have the test gear to investigate this further.... ( also i had a 12s 5000 40C pack plugged in) The ESC did something unexpected to cause this failure , I had flown the helicopter that motor is in with two other ESC one of which was a genuine ESC, I often buy HK products to try them out, which is why i made comment in jest about the donation.. I'll post you my motor and ESC for further analysis mr Engineer :-) il make sure I put a scope on if first and check all the phase angles etc just to be sure im not talking BS... I actually had a meter on it measuring output frequency for interest sake and it was 2khz less than the setting of 12khz I set it at which was a tiny bit more than the calculated frequency required.. but I don't have that option to select... but you get the idea...price does reflect quility but not value it it works ok and doesn't fry the motor.. I wasn't making an "oh my god this is ****" statement.. i as just saying i didn't expect much and would have been happy with 50 flights etc..and yes im annoyed it burnt my motor but thats the risk of testing cheap products.. I was prepared for the risk and was happy to pay the price ..but didn't expect to happen right out of teh packet.. I am also not saying don't buy it.. i just shared my experience..my one low overall rating is based on one experience..get over it... do you want me to not comment at all or just lie to make you feel better ? c'mon get real.. if you dont like don't challenge my experience..im not going to lie about it. cheers
per trasformare questo comitato in regolatore barca ho visto in altri siti che sono stati saldati 2 tubi ottone ai lati dell PIASTRA DI controllo per il raffredamento* HO VISTO GIUSTO O SBAGLIATO? ciao e grazie.
I have order a yep esc and have a yge prog when i probeer the esc this is gone bee good. only when i disconect the pro card and reconect the card ther are no lights on. but when i changed a setting i cat a riddel erom the motor
i hope you can help me.
Gr ronald
YGE 120-160HV ENGLISH MANUAL.........***********google.gr/#hl=el&gs_nf=3&c p=25&gs_id=3qn&xhr=t&q=yge 120 hv english manual&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&oq=yge 120 hv english manual&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=d9 32fef820695126&bpcl=37643589&biw=1766&bih=812
Customer Reviews
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Herbert
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Very nice esc, compact and yet powerful. Mine weighs 168g, instructions available as pdf on the tab above are fairly complete. The relevant programming card is a must. The included anti-spark is a plus. My main reason for getting one is that it can do 14S.
Bears an uncanny resemblance to the YGE 120A HV esc, and both the pcb layout and capacitors are almost identical. The instructions and setting options seem identical too. Good cooling is required for 120A or so operation, which means a heatsink or small fan could be a must for some applications (ie edf).
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Atom Smasher
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I didn't get an anti spark connector lead on mine but it's easy to fit. Solder a 100 Ohm resistor (any wattage) onto the black (-) battery input wire and then add a short section of wire and a 2mm male connector on the end of the resistor and heat shrink. solder another section of wire and a 2mm female connector onto the lipo black(-) battery wire. When connecting the battery connect the red wire first, then the black anti spark wire, and then the main black wire. do not run the motor with only the anti spark wire connected! This will work with any ESC not fitted with anti spark wires.
6 comments. Reply..
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Atom Smasher
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I forgot to mention in the discription of how to fit an anti-spark wire above - it could be fitted in the red (Positive) wire if you want too. but it's only needed in one of the wires to work. This ESC is selling in the UK as a YGE speed controller for £299!!!! and 299 Euro in Germany!!!!! Good value Hobbyking. Thanks!
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Subarooby
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Well it ran up on teh bench sort of ok... i programmed it with a prg card... i noticed it spluttered a bit tring to spool up the motor...I actually calculated the proper PWM rate and set the timing correct everything...then after a few sppol ups my motor spewed smoke out...$140 motor I might ad...pretty FCKD off as you may imagine...it looks like the out put on teh ESC lost its marbles ..my motor was brand new...that will teach me for having faith in HK ESC ... it looks exaclty like a YGE...prgrams with a YGE card.. all teh same settiings and everything..even behaved liek a YGE...just didn't perform...i knew I should have tested it on a cheap motor... grrrrrrrrr....oh well lesson learned...i just wonder if HK might replace my burnt motor.... not likely ... cant even be bothered to send teh ESC back...$90 donation HK cheers
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Raptor50luvver
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I have tried a lot of heli esc's and currently mainly fly Kontronic Jives but was really tempted to try one of these on my 700e.
I must say its exceptionally good,I cannot fault the performance,running in default heli gov mode it works like a charm with the 700mx motor and is cool after a 5 min 3d flight mounted up front under the canopy.
Brilliant product
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