Turnigy® dlux SBEC ESCs have set a new bench mark in quality and performance, so much so that this lightweight and highly versatile ESC can handle up to 6s and + 10A burst current with complete peace of mind. The extensive programming and data Logging features also offer a versatility of applications rarely seen in an ESC of this rating. All Turnigy dlux ESCs can be programmed via a programing card or by transmitter. Clear and easy to understand instructions are included.
*Now featuring data logging viewable when used with Turnigy dlux programming box.
Data logging display parameters: Max Temperature Environment Temperature Max Current Min Current Max Voltage Min Voltage Nominal Voltage Off Voltage Motor Run Time Power on Time Motor Pole Number Max Motor RPM Error Times
Spec. Max Cont. Current: 30A Max Burst Current: 40A Max BEC Current: 2A BEC Voltage: 5.5v LiPo: 2~4S Weight: 23grams Max RPM (2-pole): 200,000rpm Size: 51 x 27 x 11mm Motor Plug: Female 3.5mm bullet Connector Battery Plug: Nil
Features. Extremely low internal resistance Very low operation temperature Over temperature protection APEC MoSfets (Taiwain)
Programming Options. Battery Type: 2S~4S Forward/Reverse Soft Start LV Cut off Type (Ignore, Reduce Power, Stop Motor) LV Cut off setting (2.5~3.5v in 0.1v increments) Timing (Auto, Medium, High) Switching (8,16kHz) Factory Restore Active RPM Control: On/Off (Governor Mode)
Default factory settings. Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor) Timing: Auto Frequency: 8KHz
Note: Programming box now available, check the related items below.
Hello Tim. I make sure the center wire from the ESC and motor are connected and the two end wires can be interchanged depending on which way you want the motor to turn. I have read that even the center wire does mater in its placement and my connecting mine this way is admittedly by personal choice.
Be careful with extending the cables between the ESC and the battery, due to cable inductance you will get higher voltage spikes which will damage the ESC in the end. Better to extend the motor cables, or if you really must extend the battery cable, add good quality low ESR capacitors close to the ESC, I've seen a recommendation of 220uF per 10cm of added cable. Google for this "too long battery wires will kill ESC over time", HTH
Pietro I am running two of these in my E-Flite P-38 with the easy match 450 motors. 8.5 inch lengths of battery wire on each side plus the 2 inches sliced into the battery lead itself. I am using the Turnigy 14AWG silicone wire. Hundreds of flights and no problems what so ever.
You are saying you want a wired connection between your TX and your RX because your model is an underwater something? Wow, that's cool! You don't really need any radio stuff, you just want to control gear under water as I understand you? Well, maybe you could use a coaxial cable between your TX and an ordinary RX? The losses would be substantial if you use a 2.4 GHz radio, so you would probably be better off with a low frequency "old school" TX/RX combo (and those can be found cheap now since most people want 2.4 GHz gear). This is based on the assumption that you want a TX as the control interface for your gear. HTH
I would scavenge eBay and similar places. Your local hobby shop could have some too, maybe even used and cheaper that way? At your local R/C club there has got to be people with layed-off 35 MHz equipment that you can get for a good price. Also, you need to do some thinking about how long cable you are going to use, because there is a limit (depends on cable dampening, signal power you put in and the sensitivity of the receiver). I would estimate it (very roughly) to somewhere between 10 and 50 m at 35 MHz. If you want much longer then you need to go lower in frequency, maybe use an RS485 driver/receiver solution and send and receive the PPM signal directly (i.e. skipping the radio link parts altogether in TX and RX, a little bit more of electronics work but not that hard). Then you can easily get 1000 meters of cable. Which solution you choose depends on how deep/far you want to go. HTH
Has anyone noted that this ESC sometimes reduces output power to say 50% for a few hundred ms and then goes back to whatever the power level it had? I use it on my HK250GT FBL with a ZYX-S, and maybe 4-5 times I have had this kind of disturbance where the motor power is greatly reduced for a few tenths of a second, then power is restored again. It is most unnerving. So far I have been lucky in the sense that the altitude loss hasn't been fatal, but I guess it's just a matter of time before my little 250 bites the dust... :-b Also, one time the thing hung on 100% power, but with a little negative pitch so it was spinning the rotor like crazy, but not going anywhere. I couldn't do anything about it, throttle hold did nothing. Just had to wait until the battery was flat. This has happened once. Anyone has similar experience? In neither case did I have low battery, I would say 50-60% of full capacity so can't see that it was a power dip.
Hello LasseK, I would first check to see if you have low volt cut off set and at what voltage it is set to and see if turning it off will stop this issue. As far as throttle sticking to 100% this would make me think your ESC might have been set with the RPM control set wrong. Knowing all your programing is set correctly and if you still are having problems I would order a new one. I have 5 of these ESC's and many others in higher and lower amperage rates and swear by the D-Lux line. Sorry you are having issues and hope my suggestions help.
Thanks Jimbolina1! I have checked the low voltage cut-off, and it was off actually. I now also turned off the temperature protection (the ESC sits right in the downwash of the main rotor so it never ever gets more than lukewarm). One weird thing is that it behaved really strange when in heli mode the speed could jerk sometimes, so I actually run it in airplane mode in spite of it being used in a heli. My programming box does not show any RPM control (I have this HK programming box:TGY_DEL_PB). The version of the prog box is V0242, and the version of the ESC is B070103. How can I access the Governor mode setting?
Hello LasseK. I use my radio to program mine. Active RPM control is the 9th and final setting. Default is off. Refer to the instruction sheet that came with your ESC and you will see it is indicated by three pairs of tones low high for on and high low for off.
Very strange that the heli settings are not working correctly. I would add a new one to your next order to HK and see if you have a malfunctioning unit.
Thanks for your help! I tried to follow my instruction sheet, but no luck. It doesn't match my ESCs beeps except in a few places, the majority of the beeps is very different. Maybe HK sent the wrong instruction sheet, it only mentions the 45A version, not the 30A that I have. I went back to Airplane mode, at least that allows me to fly. Will see if disabling the over-temperature shutdown makes any difference (doubt it though since the ESC runs so cool). Jimbolina1, you wouldn't happen to have an instruction sheet that is valid for the 30A version would you?
Lasse sorry it took so long to respond. My insruction sheet imdicates 45amp as well. I am assumeing theintsructions are for both. I get the three sets of tones at the very emd of the programing cycle. I am starting to think your ESC may bealfunctioning. Don't be affraid to get another these are very good ESC's.
Hi Nate. All brushless motors require a brushless ESC, as a brushed motor requires a brushed ESC. Pick an ESC that can handle ten percent more than the peak amperage of the motor.So if the motor you are useing has a peak draw of 25 amps go with a 30 amp ESC. As to what makes for a good ESC has alot to do with personal preferances.That being said you want them to have good mosfets for cooling. I personaly like the D-Lux and AE line of Turnigy ESC. Some swear by the Red Brick ESC's. Read the reviews for the ones you are looking at. Most all sold here are of excellant quality and a great bargin.
Its a goot idea to replace this e-flite esc since the bec of this e-flite esc offers only 0,75A !!! just take a look into the manual which comes together with the parkzone planes. Running with 35mhz this will work - only short moments of control loss but with 2,4ghz you will get brownouts and may crash the plane. This nice little dlux offers a sbec which realy delivers the given amps with a stable voltage for your and your planes security ....
Peter this is not correct regarding the competetors amp. The ESC you are refering to built in BEC is in fact a 3.5amp continuous 5v. The 700mAh listed on the spec page was a missprint,You can verify this by refering to the manual.
I have been told that the naza flight controller needs esc's that respond fast * 400mhz or faster, has anyone used theses with the naza controller.. Is the speed 8khz? Has anyone used them on Openpilot?
The speed in MHz is for the microprocessor inside the board. Usualy PICs are used, about 20 MHz clocking, for a simple ESC. 8 kHz is the frequency used to make the pulses that feed the motor. Faster pulses are more or less effective depending on physical motor design. Faster processor makes a better response in ESC. In most of the ESC the micro frequency is not a spec, it just says how many RPM or kv can handle.
I think that would be pushing the absolute limits of this BEC. I can tell you that I am running two in an E-Flite P-38 and they are flawless. I chose these for the extra amperage overhead becuase I fly in a very hot climate. I will be buying more uf the Dlux series in the futer
Yes At least it says it is in the write up here "Programming via programming card or transmitter " I don't know if there's a difference between the " card" or the "box" but it says it can read data with the box also.
II picked up two of these for my E-Flite P38. They will be powering two Turnigy park 450's supplied by 3s 2200mAh 25c batteries. Even with both ESC's working in tanem I was a little concerned about the 2 amp BEC do to the 6 servos and strain on the one controlling nose gear. I chose to go with a seperate 5v 5amp BEC from HK. Some will claim this overkill, but I think of it as piece of mind.
I'm wondering if t can handle 30A without heat sink but for 170-200 watts planes will do the job.
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Quick bench test indicates ESC working and data/logging fine with Version4 programming box.Will definitely order more
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Bin sehr zufrieden mit dem 30A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller, habe ihn in mein Heli 4F200Ml eingebaut und er geht besser als der Originale, kein ruckartiges anlaufen der Rotorblätter.
Den Speed Controller kan ich nur gut empfehlen
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Cant get this to work with anything over 4s, works fine otherwise. have returned defective esc to Hobbyking.
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Perfect for small 4s applications - the only one 30A ESC with SBEC i ever have seen. Gets a little warm using SBEC with 4s in standby (no flying, no servo action); have to take a look on working behavior. Very small and light.
Don't work with my DLux programming box - bought a few month ago