USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
Designed to provide reliable and clean power for 3D parkflyers. This brushlessoutrunner will provide more power and with its high efficiency, long run times. A quality motor, built specifically for planes designed to fly with an 85 watt brushlessoutrunner.
Spec. Battery: 2~3 Cell /7.4~11.1V RPM: 1080kv Max current: 9A No load current: 11V/0.2A Internal resistance: 0.04 ohm Weight: 25g (not including connectors) Diameter of shaft: 3mm Dimensions: 27x23mm
The prop adaptor cant be removed, but you can remove the screws. This motor can be mounted forward or backward facing, and you use the accesory pack prop adaptor for backward mounting.
Hi! One of the screws broke and I can not hold the propeller with rubber ring anymore. Also I can not use another screw because I can not remove the broken piece of it from the motor... Does anyone has an advice about how to solve that? I have prop adapter but most of the propellers has a too wide hub and does not fit. Thanks in advance.
if you cut a groove in the end of the screw with a dremmel cut off wheel, you can use a flat screwdriver to remove it. I suggest some penetrating oil before the screwdriver as the screws tend to be tight. you may need to cut into the motor hub but not to worry* just dont go down to the shaft.
4 of these purchased for a Quadcopter, All work, but one seams to have a bad bearing or something rubbing, as it cannot turn as fast as the other 3 motors. No strange noises or anything, it just wont spin up the same as the others. I have calibrated the ESC's a few times, but no change. Now waiting for replacement motor to be shipped :-(
I use 3 of this motor on my tricopter and after 15mins of flight the motors are a little more than warm. Is It normal? The battery are less than warm and the ESCs are cold. Running on 3S. I am worried of damaging the motors as I am a newbie on eletrics.
PS: I reversed all 3 shafts (and 2 more) without any problem using a hex wrench, a hammer and a vise.
Hi Marcos, I am running these motors on my quad, with 3S and 8x4.5 props. The motors do get warm after extended flights (10-15 mins) but it doesnt seam to harm them. I have even accidentally run them on 4S for 10 minutes and they are still going strong.
HK sells 8/4 props try them, GWS or APC. Plus what is warm? Can you touch it and you have to remove your fingers or is it just warm? Warm is not bad and if the ESC are only warm you are OK What board did you use as I want to put together a Quad since HK missed the boat on how many people are into quads now
I wasn't able to remove the broken shaft from the bell. Had to invest a lot of force => now the bell is bend ... great.
Couldn't also remove the two srews directly with a hex wrench. Had to use a caliper .... What size is this? 1mm??
I want to reverse the shaft so i can use the prop adapter, but wen i tryed to removed the 2 bolts, my 1.5mm shaft hex screwdriver canot do it cause of the tiny holes, and HK just have the minimum 1.5mm hex screwdriver... Could someone tell me the precise mm of the bolts? And how can I remove them? Tks in advance
Could any one help me, please! I want to reverse the shaft so i can use the prop adapter, but wen i tryed to removed the 2 bolts, my 1.5mm shaft hex screwdriver canot do it cause of the tiny holes, and HK just have the minimum 1.5mm hex screwdriver... Could someone tell me the precise mm of the bolts? And how can I remove them? Tks in advance!
The Hex key size is not a common size (its like 0.75mm) so you can either file down a 1mm allen key or grip the head of the bolt with pliers. I dont think the shaft can be reversed, as the groove for the circlip is too far offset on the shaft. I just reversed the motor mounting and direction so the prop adapter could be used.
I broke a shaft of one of these motors today.
Looks like there aren't any spare parts for this item, right? Or is there another motor shaft I can use. Sure it's possible to make one yourself out of 3mm steelrod but Id' like to uswe the original ones ...
Puchased 4 of these for a quadrotor. One was bad. The leads on it were half the diameter of the other three motors and there was white flaky stuff and scratches all around the inside of the motor. Looks like it has been rebuilt and sold as new.
I installed all 4 motors in a quadrotor and one of them spun a lot slower than the others when under a load. It spins but it's very weak. The slightest pressure will stop it from turning while the other three keep cranking right along. I tried a different ESC just to be sure but it did the same thing. Last night, I removed the bell and the inside is... well, this picture says it all.
I'm looking for a direct swap out for an Eflite 400 - for a GP Yakk 55 3D trainer...
It's got a Park370 Brushed motor right now... would this be around right? I think the park 480 (next biggest) is overkill....
the turnigy park series are a little under powered in comparison to eflite series. i believe a park 450 is a very comparable motor to the eflite 400 and would do good and save you a little weight from the park 480. good luck
That depends on the prop you gonna use. I would say that a 10A ESC would work great if you use a 8x4 prop because it is always better to use a ESC that can leave atleast 15-20% more Ampere than the motor will drain from it.
what type of metal is the park flyer300 made out of it looks like aluminum but aluminum is shiny of all the metals on the planet earth I think aluminum is the shiniest. It looks too gray I think it is made with nickel?
Most of your brushless motors for RC are aluminum. Some come bead blasted which is one way for finish and others come polished . Again also the metal can be anodized in just about any color which is an electro coating..
Just about all shafts can be reversed but you may have to file a flat spot and dremel in a groove for the C clip if you use the same shaft. Myself I buy a length of 3.01 hardened drill rod and make my own shafts.. Works great !
Most of the motors are cast aluminum and some machined aluminum . The bell or can is usually steel stamped.. Aluminum helps keep weight down and I think it looks better natural ( silver ) but that is my preference.. Hope this helps !
I have moved the shaft on 2 of these motors. Carefull to not loose the shaft clip when removing. I use a hammer lightly and backup with a tube which supports the shaft housing on the opposite side. An old clunk tank weight worked great in a vise. Measure the groove from the housing first, 8mm, then tap the end groove to this same location. Put the spacer back and the clip. Been flying one of these for a month now.
If it were me, I would wait till it arrives, then mark and drill using the mount as a template. That way you only have to do it once, and it will be correct...
Could any one help me, please! I want to reverse the shaft so i can use the prop adapter, but wen i tryed to removed the 2 bolts, my 1.5mm shaft hex screwdriver canot do it cause of the tiny holes, and HK just have the minimum 1.5mm hex screwdriver... Could someone tell me the precise mm of the bolts? And how can I remove them? Tks in advance!
I want to reverse the shaft so i can use the prop adapter, but wen i tryed to removed the 2 bolts, my 1.5mm shaft hex screwdriver canot do it cause of the tiny holes, and HK just have the minimum 1.5mm hex screwdriver... Could someone tell me the precise mm of the bolts? And how can I remove them? Tks in advance
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
kgreen6982
5 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Purchased this motor for my Skybuggy. Great looking motor. Have not run yet. You MUST purchase connectors for this motor. Having to wait for connectors and/or find alternative solution.
5 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
ILikeRCThings
32 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Very good motor- all three worked strait out of the box. I reversed the shaft on all of them, but accidentally broke one shaft in the process. Do not try to reverse the shaft unless you ABSOLUTELY have to! Made a new shaft with some steel rod. I use three of these motors on a tricopter, 3s lipo, 7x4 props. They will easily turn 8x4s on 3s, its just that a 7x4 works better with a tricopter because the motors can speed up/slow down faster. If you do reverse the shaft, get a can of spray lube and spray a lot on the motor bell/shaft.
5 stars, just be careful with shaft reversing.....
13 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Rafael
5 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Ótimo motor, bem construído e eficiente. Comprei um e não me arrependo. Está voando em um aeromodelo homemade com 300 gramas e arrasta ele praticamene na vertical.
No comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
planehappy
2 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
I´m rating this at 4 stars although I`ve only bench tested it. I took some measurements and fed the numbers to MotorCalc and it returns motor constants. I had thought a resistance of .04 ohms was impossibly low and MotorCalc says it is 0.672 ohms with a kv of 1088 and No load current of 0.3 amps. All measurements were made with a 2s Lipo battery. Anyway I wanted to turn a scale 4 blade prop in a P51b (35" wingspan). I measure it with a GWS 10x8 scale prop: 7.0V, 6.0A, 2750RPM, 218gms thrust. MotorCalc says it will work much better with a 3S Lipo and a 3:1 gearbox. When I get the gearbox I'll test it again. It runs reliably on the test stand, seems to be of high quality and I am quite pleased with it.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
mike_o
53 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
I purchased 4 of these for my quadrocopter and have run them for some time without any problems. Quality is very high for the money.
Copyright 2012 Hextronik Limited.
The HobbyKing.com®, OrangeRx, Turnigy, Durafly, nano-tech and other brand logos and names are trademarks of hexTronik Limited.
All rights reserved