DHC-2 Beaver (Bush Plane) STOL EP ARF (USA Warehouse)
DHC-2 Beaver EP ARF Famous for its super short STOL**, the DHC Beaver is a fun and easy plane to fly. A quality balsa and laser-cut plywood construction make this plane very light. Coupled with a 30 size outrunner and a 9~10 inch slowfly propeller and you will have the Beaver performing near stationary takeoffs and super slow 3 point landings.
SPECIFICATIONS Wingspan: 40 in Length : 28.2 in Weight : 29 oz Wing area : 210 sq in Motor : 30-xx size outrunner (Not included) Servo : 3 x 9g
Yes, but it's not pretty. I'm using a 3 cell 1300mah inside the motor mount between the motor and firewall. I snipped an opening in the bottom of the cowl, white duct tape for a hinge, and a magnet for a latch. I've placed velcro on the inside top of the motor mount and end of the battery to hold it in place. It works. It could be prettier...
I put a hatch in the bottom right in front of the gear. Hinged one side and put a servo horn on the other side as a latch. Not too hard a mod. This plane has lots of issues with ill-fitting parts, bad instructions, and alignment issues. The wing was very difficult to fit correctly to the fuse, and took a lot of sanding, grinding, and drilling to get it to fit squarely on the fuse. I put larger wheels on it, and if you see below, I took the springiness out of the gear. The cowl was a whole other issue. Made it fit, but way too long to be Beaver Like. Just get it matching the striped paint lines, and that's about as good as it gets. If you look on one of the warehouse sites for this model (not sure which Intl or US) I put a copy of the manual I got from HK CS, and not the black and white one that came with the model. It's much better, and shows a lot more detail.
I received plane and I have to say I'm very disappointed and have thrown in trash. Many things wrong with this plane, the windshield should have been painted with polycarbonate as to not have the paint crack and fall off, one warped aileron, one wing half slightly longer from front to rear when applying epoxy to join them, rudder tube nowhere near the hole on the balsa skin, terrible instructions, couldn’*t figure out how the tail wheel should attach to the rudder.
The gear is too springy. I kept the stock wire gear and modified it a bit to get the spring out. It works very well now IMHO.
First I put the gear on the plane as is. Then I fit the leg covers onto the wire struts and marked where the wire was on the covers on the back side. I then put slices in the cover on either side of the leg marks in two places. One near the top, and one closer to the bottom. Then before fitting these on. I put a piece of push rod cut to size about an inch down from the fuse, from one leg to the other. Bent it around the gear wire so it would wouldn't move. Then I fit the covers on and used zip ties in the two slit places to secure them to legs. These kept the legs from bending too much, and the wire between the legs could go no lower than the first zip tie which added to the stiffness. If you do the zip ties from the rear of the covers you don't see anything but a small white band on the face of the cover, and if the crosswire is close enough to the fuse, you hardly see it either.
Anyway, it solved the problem and now my gear still has give, but I'm no longer worried about it bottoming out and breaking the prop. Hope this helps and I explained it clearly enough.
This plane only needs three servos not four? I ordered the Turnigy D2836/11 750KV and I already have some 3s 1300 nanos, what prop works best with this set-up? I land all day long on sims, but I'm pretty rough when it comes to the real thing. I'm a rough lander, so how is this plane on helping me refine my landing skills?
Three servos, correct. I would use a GWS 10x6 prop with the motor you've chosen.
The Landing gear on this plane is not very strong. It should be fine if flown from a hard surface, but definitely change out the wire to something stronger for grass. I've changed mine to 3/16 inch music wire and 2 1/4 diameter wheels.
OK, I bought this plane and it is my first balsa/plywood model. I just got it today and in looking over the parts I am very pleased with it. But......the elevator has a horn on one side only, and I cannot for the life of me see how the unhorned section is connected to the horned side in order to move them both. There does not seem to be a piece that would transfer the movement from the one side to the other. Anybody able to help me on this?
There should be a 'U' shaped wire with the kit that connects the two halves together. If you look closely at the forward edge of the elevator halves, you should see a small hole under the covering. This is where the wire sbould be placed. Take your time and test fit the complete elevator/vertical stabilizer assembly before you put any glue on. It's tricky.
Thanks. There was no hole in my elevators anywhere. The piece of wire I had in my kit was shaped like a squared off capital "G". I finally figured it out when HK Support sent me a copy of the manual I refer to above, which shows the piece, and how it is supposed to look. Cut it, bent it and got it in and working well. Now I am trying to fit the wing, but it is way out of whack, so filing, fitting, filing, fiting**-then drilling new holes for the bolts. Not an easy build.
When the motor is mounted do you have to account for the thrust angle**slighty down and to the right** or is the frame already built to account for it? If not what do you use under the motor mount to achieve the right angle?
I believe you will have to remove the wing to access. There Cessna is the same way is a real pain....Very poor design...like the plane looks but short sided on their part to make it easy to access battery and changes..
The instructions illustrate 50-55mm from the leading edge. I redesigned a lighter tailwheel and put an 800mah 3S LiPo in the motor box and the CG is still 55 mm. I have a 200 watt 50gm Turnigy motor installed and a 9x6 prop. The main landing gear wire is weak also. I will probably add weight to the nose before maiden flight.
I had to add 4oz of lead to the nose to get this plane to cg at 40-45mm. Remember guys - this kit was originally designed to be .15 glow engine powered, so it needs quite a bit of weight added up front when you just have a light little out-runner bolted up there.
the instruction manual is useless had todo a lot of fab work. Tried using a 10*5 prop not happening sits to low instead of removing wings or cutting door in bottom for easy battery access I velcroed the windshield works pretty good maiden flight tomorrow.
1 comment. Reply..
The airplane arrived in great shape with no dmage at all. The monokote was applied very nicely with no wrinkles at all. It appears that all the parts are there, although the "manual" has no index of all parts supplied. The Manual is very bad. No detail, poor picture quality, and steps left out of the build process. I have questions regarding the assembly of the elevator, steerable tail wheel, and aileron servo that aren't shown in manual, or even pictured. This is why I gave it only 3 crowns in the two categories. The cowl and windscreen are both pretty flimsy, and they will require special care to get on without damage. Pushrods are very flexible and may cause issues down the road if not reenforced or replaced. It will take some time and effort, not to mention skill, to get this plane assembled. This is not for a beginner, or hobbyist unfamiliar with balsa/plywood construction.
No comments. Reply..
Not worth the headache, save your money for another plane HK has to offer. Poorly designed for EP and overall quality it low.