USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
This is one big foam Warbird! Being Plug N Fly it is a fast build model packed with enough features and scale detail to make this one bird you will be proud to own.
Made from EPO foam, this model is practical despite its size, a one peice removable wing makes for easy transport, even the tail can be un-screwed if desired. The pre-fitted servos and electric retracts are all pre-labelled making field assembly fast and simple. It uses the kind of 4s packs that are becoming very common now on large foamies, chances are, you already have a few in your flightbox. The Pre-Fitted motor has plenty of power for those scale Warbird aerobatics or just straffing your flying field!
Scale detail is just superb, as are the pre-applied decals, features include pre-installed electric retracts/tailwheel, there is the very scale 4 bladed prop & spinner, navigation lights, adjustable radiator outlet, drop tanks, moulded exhaust stubs and guns. The flaps keep the landing speed right down, this model has no nasty Warbird tip stall tendencies, it just floats in like a trainer. If you have ever fancied owning a Warbird but were put off by all the stories you have heard about them being "difficult" to fly, this is the model for you!
Specs: Wingspan: 1600mm Length: 1400mm Flying Weight: 2800g Motor: 45-58 Brushless ESC: 80A w/BEC Prop: 16x6 Four Blade Servo: 9g x 4, 17g x 2 Retracts: Electric Servoless Type 6 Channel (thottle, aileron, elevator, rudder, retract, flaps)
Includes: All Hardware Instruction Book Glue
Requires: Your Own 6 Channel TX/RX 3200mAh ~ 4000mAh 4s Lipoly Battery
* Please note, due to the size of this model, it will be shipped double boxed to arrive in good condition
Hello, I'm presently assembling this plane and I'm afraid. Who did really measure the prop size and pitch. From calculation this plane can not even take off. the speed will be something like 45km/H or 27mile/H. Or some parameters are wrong: KV of the motor or real pitch of the propeller. Please help
Christ (You have asked this in a few places) I used a 5050 and it is fine. It does say in the listing 45dia to 58dia. But if you use a 45 you would not want to us a 4540 it would have to be the biggest 45. I hope this helps. (Also do you do you maths with 4 blades or 2?)
Hello Kellyann, thanks for answering. However not to the question. I'm surprise about your question on 2 versus 4 blades: pitch is independant of the number of blades, so is the expected speed. number of blades just influence the amount of air flow, not its speed. So, what about the original engine? (mine not yet broken - not yet maiden, so no need of a new motor. what is real KV? what is real pitch? Yes I posted the same question in each such plane, and di not yet recaive the answer to the question. Enjoy flying.
Christ at least I replied. But you make me wish I had not bothered. Show me the formula Please. All I know is mine with my 5055 is that it jumps in the sky. I is as if she does no wishes to get her feet dirty. So since it does not roll at all it see that air flow is important. KV580. So I know it should not work on the drwaing board but there the rubber hit the tare (not for much) it all works great. My bird is great have fun flying.
Hello Kellyann, sorry for the disapointment, but I asked a clear question, so do I expect a clear answer. the pitch is the distance the propeller will progress on a 360°* turn. That's it, what ever quantity of blades you are using. So you changed the engine to a 580KV (standard is 400kV as stated in the build document.This means about 50% more speed to the propeller. It's a lot.It's suppose also to increase the speed of the plane by as much. which model are you using? SK5055 - 580KV from Turnigy? How many cells? 8? are you still using the original ESC? what about the prop? original one? Thanks for clarifications so that I can understand why you so happy and why I still have to wonder if mine will fly. Best regards
Christ I am sorry for my attitude. Mine flies. So it say 45-58. I have been told that this mean 4558 wihich is a motor size. So mine is over powered. But you say the maths show yours will not fly? I hope it does. I hope you love it. Wheels Up.
Hello Kellyann, why did you changed the motor delivered with the plane? were you experiencing speed problems or other with original motor? Flying is waiting for a better weather.will see soon. have fun
Christ no it just came with a 5055. I just though till we chatted that 45-58 was the range. Now I under stand that it is 4548 the size. When I got mine I had never heard of 45 series. All I knew was 28series 35series 42series 50series and 63 series. So when mine came wit a 5055 I though nil of it.
Hello Snappy, wonderfull answer! thanks very much for your help. pssst,just to let you know, this discussion is 3 months old. Hope you react better when flying! regards
Hello Chrisholden82 YES you can do that. It will work very fine. however you will miss the benefit of separate channels. For example you have only 2 position for landing gear: on or off* so will be the flaps! which means also that at take off you will have same flaps level as landing. I recommend to put half down flaps as you will use them also at take off. Missing the rudder is not a good idea on my point of view. you need it for take off(to compensate the torque) and landing to compensate for the wind direction. It depends also where you flying: concrete very wide track and no wind area or grass, narrow track 1 direction and lot of wind. You can also use some landing door electronic to program 2 positions for flaps and 1 for landing gear (if you have a switch with 3 positions on your radio). You can also fly without flaps (keep them up), or without retracts (keep legs down). or you can buy a new cheap radio. HK is selling cheap and good ones. So finally it is up to you. many solutions* just pick the one you prefer. Enjoy flying!
Hello PeterVau I'm using 2 differents: 5000 5S compact lipo or 3300 4S nanotech. More than enough power for the extra weight for the 5S. Ballance is easy as there is plenty of space to movefor correct balance. I tried also one with 5S 8000ma. Still OK, longer flight but need more speed at landing. also that level of extra wheigth is not good for the original landing gear if you are flying on grass. Enjoy flying
Hi, I keep getting messages telling me I've had a reply to my review but I can't see what it is how to reply to it? If I click on the Comment..Reply link, it just sends me any message??? How's it done?? Cheers, Luke
Thanks Greg, At least "Discussion" seems to work. Cheers, Luke
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
Luke
57 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
I got my plabe last Friday. OK with quick dekivery. I haven't assembled it yet so this is not a review of the kit. I just want to know why my plane has a two piece wing when the picture and text shows a one piece wing? Any explanation for this HK?
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Luke
57 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
I'm now in the process of assembling the kit and so I thought I would write about my experience so far.
Part 1. The kit was shipped double boxed and very well packaged. Everything needed was in the box including instructions booklet that is unfortunately, of very little help.
I started the assembly with the main wing. The wing is in two pieces not one but this is probably a good thing for carrying this rather large plane around in the car.
Now since there isn't information either way, I'm assuming that the two wing halves are not supposed to be glued together.
A long plywood spar is inserted into and supports the two parts and there are sections in the wing mounding that appears to fit corresponding sections in the body when the wing is installed.
The front of the wing is then secured by two screws.
The Flap and Aileron servos are installed but the linkages are not. The four control horns have to be screwed to the flaps and ailerons and the linkages inastalled onto the servos.
This is where I found the first problem so far. The holes in the plastic lever on two servos in one wing were too small to take the push rod wire and I had to drill them out. The ones in the other wing were OK???
The next issue was figuring out how to connect the servo, landing gear and wing tip LED wires. There are number labels that indicate the receiver channel numbers but
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Luke
57 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Part 1 Continued. The next issue was figuring out how to connect the servo, landing gear and wing tip LED wires. There are number labels that indicate the receiver channel numbers but that's all. Luckily the wire lengths and wing exit location give a small clue to how they should be connected. Once done, it becomes a bit more obvious. End Part 1.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
Luke
57 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Part 2.A. OK, I've finished assembling the rest of the kit and it does look very nice. I definately would not describe it as a Plug & Fly model. It took me about 10 hours to build and although every bit needed is included, the instructions are totally useless. With step by step instructions, it could be Plug & Fly, but not as it is.
Fitting the fin into the body was quite straight forward once the screw holes were lined up. None of the screws really lined up without some pushing and pulling, but once aligned they are fine.
The control horns need to be installed into the tail and the rear wing elevators. This is a bit tricky also because the parts are tiny and selecting the right length screw was a bit confusing at first.
This model has a steerable rear wheel that connects to the tail servo arm via two wire cables and these are VERY tricky to fit and adjust. An eyelet must be crimped to the ends of each cable and must end up the right length for the available adjustment range. As I said, VERY tricky.
End Part 2A.
2 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Luke
57 likes
Value
Quality
Like it?
Part 2B. Because the main wing is in two pieces (not one as shown) there are many more wires to be connected and you end up with quite a rats nest when fitted to the body. However there is plenty of room and so it's not too much of a problem, just a bit messy.
The wires comming out of the main wing are Ailerons Flaps Undercarriage including rear wheel Port LED (Red) Starboard LED (Green)
The two LED wires go the two wires comming from the ESC. They are not controlled and are always ON when power is applied.
All the servo power wires are numbered with their corresponding receiver channels and so this isn't too difficult to figure out, but some instructions would have been helpful and would saved some time.
I connected all the servos and ESC to the radio receiver and powered everything up.
Copyright 2012 Hextronik Limited.
The HobbyKing.com®, OrangeRx, Turnigy, Durafly, nano-tech and other brand logos and names are trademarks of hexTronik Limited.
All rights reserved
.jpg&width=48)
.jpg&width=48)
.jpg&width=48)
.jpg)
.jpg)
