What kind of connectors does this ESC come with? I can see 6 wires coming out of the ESC, but I am not sure how the heads look like. Do I need special connectors to connect this to the motor and the arduino? Thanks.
And who has the manual for this ESC? It's annoying that none of the components seem to come with manuals.
Hello Tzer Han no connector except the one for the receiver. Upt o you to install the connector for your battery and motor side. send me your Email and I'll send you the manual. It was in the files earlier and is no more :-( I tried yesterday as you can see just below but no success. like we can no more upload any file acutally. enjoy flying
I was wondering if anyone has done a Bixley engine mod with an inrunner brushless rather than a outrunner,everyone it seems has done that.And if someone has what were the results?Thanks,I look forward to some new ideas.
There is not any connectors on this ESC. You should buy it additionally, I suggest you to buy 3.5mm gold female connectors for the motor (most motors came with this male connectors, check before you are buying) ant the HX60 connectors for Turnigy batteries (also check before)
Hi...just bought one of EDF70 with 3800kv and I had a problem with speed controller BRDIE 50A Brushless ESC w/ 3A BEC. Problem is that is to hot when running on 1/2 throttle. setup is - 3s lipo - Timing Mode Setting is 30 - For 10-14 Pole High-RPM Outrunner Motors I also burn out one controller !! Hobby King 60A ESC 4A UBEC ! All advice welcome
I just bought this to use with Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor, motor won't turn and start shaking until quarter way of throttle, works perfect after that. Anyone have the same issue or I got the bad one?
I have the same setup and I had the same issue.I decided to don't make any adjustment to the ESC.I think you have to setup a different timing in your ESC.What I have done to solve this problem is to move the throttle trim forward so the motor starts immediately.
You're welcome, Alfred.
I would suggest you to keep an eye open with this ESC. Mine toasted due a bad soldering in the motor wires. It's a robust ESC indeed, but after this episode I started to double check the soldering and wiring of all my ESC's.
BEC stands for "Battery Eliminator Circuit",this means you do not need a seperate power source like a 4.8v nimh battery or something similar to run your receiver and servo's.The BEC system in this ESC provides a steady 5.5v@3amps to run the receiver and servo's,the ESC then has a cut off to the motor which senses when the battery is getting low,it then shuts off the motor and leaves enough power in the battery to carry on running the receiver etc for quite sometime.
count the magnets.If you cant see the magnets from the open side you can carefully slide off snap ring,try doing this inside a plastic baggie to contain the ring if it pops away.then slide the motor housing apart and you can see the magnets.carefully put your motor back together.this only goes for outrunners.For inrunners you have to check manufacturers specks.
Saw a guy on Youtube running it on 5s, he said the motor was warm after his runs. I'll be using a smaller prop. I have heard this esc has to be manually programmed for best results hence my question about the pole count.
Will do. I will be using it on a Parkjet myself. Figured I would start with a 4.1x4.1 and go up until the amps, watts, and speed look right. My cohorts are going to use that motor on the Fun Fighters to make them faster (like they need to be).
I just soldered it and got everything working (after ruining 3 XT60 connector).
However, I'm a bit confused about the beeps on the start. Musical tone two beeps. I though that meant "I'm starting, you have a 2-cell battery".
I have a 3-cell 11.1V, and would want it to recognize it. I did try to program it with the throttle stick, and I did everything as I should, and I could already feel that I could run it at a lower stick adjustment than before, but still it's only musical tone two beeps. Shouldn't it be three?
That's because you're still in "programming mode".
Disconnect the battery...Turn on your Tx and push the throttle up to full...reconnect your battery to your Rx...1 beep and a tone is your battery program menu...move throttle stick to center position.
when you hear 1 short beep, followed by 7 long beeps, that will indicate your 3 cell battery. move the throttle stick back to the Full-upposition., When you hear the sequence for the option you wish to select. The controller
will then save the
Hmm. Still a bit confused. I've run it, but I don't know if it's correctly configured.
I have set it to 3S, after the directions in the manual, but still when I turn it on, it doesn't give three beeps (3S-lipo).
It says "do-do-di" - "beep-beep".
What does that mean? I thought it was "I'm turning on" - "2S lipo detected".
Can someone confirm that the Birdie ESC doesn't count the cells of the battery when starting up? Regardless of what I set the battery cells to, it starts with the musical tone two beeps.
I tried with 2s, 3s, and 4s. Always gives two beeps upon start.
I do have 11.1v 3s, which it is now set to.
Yes that one comes without connectors, they not even included if I remember correctly. It only has BEC circuit plug installed, you have to solder the battery plug and the 3 poles for the motor.
Also be sure to check its manual, and set it up correctly, for your lipo cells, and motor type, its not a Turnigy, it will not auto-detect it!!
My motor run very hot without proper timing a poles settings, now its fine.
hi, could anyone help? will there be an effect on the motor speed if I use a higher rated esc like this 50amps on motor that only requires say 30amps? just want to buy an esc where i could use in almost any motor thats why i want to invest on higher rated esc's .thanks in advance guys...
Well it all depends. Getting a high amp ESC does not affect the motor performance. Although the load on the motor will. In any Setup you want an ESC to have higher Amp output then your motor, and you want to load the motor to or less then the constant amp while static. The motor amp rating is what the motor can handle without burning up and its ralates to the load. The ESC amp rating is what the ESC can produce before burning up and is related to what the motor pulls. if you have a motor rated f
Over all If you want an ESC that you can use with any motor, get a 100 amp ESC. Even though you have a 30 amp motor, your motor will still draw higher amps if your load is more then what the motor can handle. So in ralation, if you do not have a watt/amp meter i would suggest getting one to be able to adjust load on your motor and not cause a burn out.
More Info on Setup. There is many ways of Adjusting your Electrical system. You can look at it as 4 key elements. 1-Power Source(battery), 2-Power Provider(ESC), 3-Power Converter(motor), and 4-Power Producer(load). So your Load is Directly related to the prop or gear you use. the bigger, the more amps is required to spin. The smaller, the less amps required. The load is your main concern in all as long as you have an ESC that can provide more amps then needed and a motor to with stand the amps. If your battery can not produce the Amps needed, it will heat and bloat, Risk of fire. You can lower you Amps needed by also lowering voltage. If you need the bigger prop, then lower voltage to lower amps or get a bigger motor and ESC to acomidate the Amps needed to spin the prop or load.
This speed control through the tx program through the use of accelerator, Esteo is done through a predefined sequence of movements when you turn the speed control. You have to get off the page Hobbyking the manual instructions. regardss
can anyone give me an advice how i need to program it for quad( x conf) ? what i did is:
Throttle - Hard start
Brake - No Brake
Direction and Cut off Type - Soft Cutoff
Timing Mode - 7degres for 6-8 Pole motors
Pulse Width - 16khz
Thank you !
HobbyKing 2.1 board
Turnigy SK3530-1150KV motors
2Cell 5000 mah lipo
these birdie ESC.
It just doesn't work, motors stops at any time,just with full throtle they work normaly.
Only other thing I can think of is travel limit/EPA on radio, though seemingly you've covered that with the other TX and with the other ESC. I only have one of these, so I can't say anything to consistency of QC.
Es exactamente igual que el redbrick 50A pero con peores FETs, a cambio lo que ofrece es que ya tiene BEC y te ahorras una bateria en el modelo, aguanta 40A en continuo los 50 son solo de pico. No sirve para motores de altas revoluciones