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Razor Full Composite High Performance Slope Soarer w/Flaps 1500mm (ARF)
The Razor is a high performance, top quality, full composite sloper, this kind of model and build quality is normally associated with small European manufacturers and at top Dollar prices, the Razor offers top Dollar quality at an affordable price.
The Razor just oozes quality and features live hinged control surfaces, flaps and CF re-enforced servo mounts, hardware is excellent and includes a huge CF dihedral brace for extra stiffness as well as CF locating peg's. Not cheap, but fantastic value for money considering the superb craftsmanship of this model, the Razor is for the discerning RC glider pilot.
Features: High Performance Model Superb Manufacturing Quality Full Composite Construction Extensive use of CF in stressed area's Live Hinge Control Surfaces All Hardware Included
Requires: Your Own 6 Channel TX/RX 1 x 12g~16g Digital High Torque MG elevator servo 4 x MG low profile High Torque Digital Wing Servo 1 x RX Battery 1 x UBEC
I am struggling with aileron linkage and throw: aileron goes up but not down! Only 25mm down but it takes a lot of force to defflect it down. Is that normal with that kind of gliders? I just can't figure out how to properly link servos to aikerons, any help would be much appreciated
JuJuJu, There is no need to get 25mm of down Aileron.Center of Gravity
91mm back from LE at root.
Aileron High Rate (Measured at the tip)
Up 12mm
Down 10mm
Low Rate
Up 6mm
Down 5mm
Elevator High Rate (measured at the center)
Up 7mm
Down 7mm
Low Rate
Up 5mm
Down 5mm
Yeah, it's the same plane, just for a different style of flying. The CG will be exactly the same. Some pilots may prefer it back or forward. Like if it's windy, you put the CG a tad forward.
Just rec. it today & no instructions at all. not sure how the wings are spose to be held in to the fuzz, & c/g would b nice. (won't be hard to work out but some basic set up instructions would be nice)
Andrew, look for a build thread on RCGroups. If there isn't one, find a build thread on most any other similar molded glider. If you've never heard of RCGroups, search for it and join up.
The fastest and badest F3F racers use tape, even on the backside. There are little to no forces that "pull" at wings. Don't trust me though, ask people who sell or own $1700 racing gliders, TAPE.
Thanks for the replies. I have flown it now & I found the c/g to be about 70mm. I also used a c/s screw taped into the wing spar to hold the wings on (it worked really well) Andrew
Note to beezlebub, but the only time you generate significant force that will pull the wings away from the fuse is during something like a snap roll. Tape if fine* the forces are relatively small, and tape provides a lot of shear strength.
Not only that, but tape covers the gap between the wings and fuselage, lowering drag. They even use tape on full size glider wings to lower drag. The best kind of tape to use on wings is electrical tape. It's slightly stretchy, you can get it in a color that matches your glider, and it peels off with no adhesive residue.
At the very beginning of youtube video you see the pilot applying tape to a $700-$900 model. When I saw my first moldie I too was skeptical, but it's not rocket science, there are little, to no forces that pull at wings. As a rule the carbon spar/joiner is very snug as well as the incidence pins. Tape is just the little extra bit of insurance. Red 3M tape and this airplane looks sharp.
Comment to slopiloton rcg: Feel free to explain WHY tape is unacceptable. The reality is that using tape in this application is STP for gliders much more expensive than $300. I explained why it's fine, and I'll elaborate a bit: no significant drag is added, it provides more than sufficient holding power, it's cheap and easy to use, good quality tape leave little or no residue (poor quality tape residue is easily cleaned up with ISA and a paper towel), and most important, it does the job. In short it's not "lame." Nor does the price of the glider matter. Either put up (explain why tape is "lame") or shut up (quit while you're not farther behind). Unsupported negative comments may make you feel good, but they don't actually help anyone get flying. If you've got a better solution, feel free to share it.
a ubec allows you to use a lighter li-po battery without over-volting the servos. however, as this plane needs nose-weight anyway, just use a nimh or nicad battery and add less lead.
SmartLipos are good they have a built in voltage regulator and can be charged directly from another battery. A little pricey but add in the convenience and easy of use factor and they are worth it. HK don't sell these.
I had a Fireblade from Staufenbiel, I think it is either a copy or it comes out of the same factory. Mine was a one piece wing, but same color scheme.
I loved it. Unfortunately damaged it DSing so I sold it.
What is interesting it has an identical wing to the Habanero which was from TY1 even the wing bolts were in the same place.
I did like my Habanero better than this one because it had rudder as well, which makes it more suitable for light conditions.
All I can say that wing plan form with that airfoil works awesome.
Mibo Dart has one piece wing and of superb quality. I used to own one and it flies great. The same model is Staufenbiel Firehawk. I don't believe these models are made in Slovenia. Here is my build www.link
Thanks Alt-F4. :-)
I totally agree!
See some, like the Matrix-30, only hinge at the top.
Limiting flap deflection.
Otherwise a tempting model.
Customer Reviews
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Kerry
10 likes
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I boughts this Model somewhere else, amazing quality! I have been d-sing it and it seems to hold together ok. Ive been getting some pretty good speeds out of it.
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jean-claude
36 likes
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Superbe finition pour ce planeur tout fibre identique au FIREBLADE F3F quadro flaps de Staufenbiel Modellbau il peut être electrifie sans probeme
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gilbert
2 likes
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It took a month to receive the airplane, but it is worth the wait. The wings are very nice but the fuselage is very fragile. The seam is very thin. This plane will not take hard landings. It is very light and flies effortlessly.It needed about 1/32 of an inch of up elevator for level flight trim. There are no instructions. To fasten the stab I enlarged the two holes under the fuselage and used the two black screws provided.This leaves clearance for the stab linkage. It flies in very light lift, turns soooo smoothly , and is relaxing to fly. With 8 ounces of ballast it goes like hell. I did not install any flap servos as they just add to the weight and nothing to the performance. If balanced properly it flies straight and level hands off. I would recommend this to any one who wants $400 dollar performance out of a $ 260.00 dollar airplane. I bought mine during the promotion. Even at $300 dollars its a great deal.
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