The HobbyKing Red Brick ESCs wont win first place for style, though they will take top points for simplicity and reliability. With a basic set of programming features these ESCs are a perfect solution for anyone looking for a basic yet robust speed controller.
Specs. Max Amps: 30A Ubec: 5v / 2A Cells: 2~3s Lipoly Size: 52mm x 14mm x 25mm Weight: 22g (Inc Wires)
have this red brick on a 900 gramm Delta with dualsky XM2834 and 8x4 prop.3s2200. Installation was easy, but aftr running 10 to 15 seconds, it does not stop when throttle stick is moved to stop. Motor continues krikeling turning and after a while no more reaction follows the throttle stick Position. when i disconnect battery, and connect again, then it works for a Little while. i am unhappy with this ESC.
Have been using 2 of these for the past few weeks... they held up ok running 2s battery and running less than 18a.....
re-powered both models this weekend... one on 2s * 24A the other was running 3s * 20A both failed on the first flight....
the 2s model had been thoroughly tested on the bench... went to spin up prop ready to launch.... motor spins up... magic smoke released from red BRICK... lucky not in the air yet
3s model had been tested on bench although not as intensively. Bit warm with no airflow.... motor cuts out 1 1/2 mins into flight... luckily ubec still functioning... dead stick landing... red BRICK too hot to touch.... retested when home, motor still only draws 20a amps but ESC is overheating and will shut down.......
These are terrible... horrible start up and obviously not capable of running at their rated capacity
The first thing you MUST do when you buy these ESC's is to correct a serious design fault. And this is a MUST if you want them to live. You have to cut the red foil and then insulate the wire connections (welding) from the aluminium heatsink. (and maybe cut about 2 mm from the AMTEL side heatsink). When you strap these ESC's to the arms of the multicopter ,if you squeeze them with whatever you attach them, the heatsink tends to short circuit eighter the motor wires (and burns your FETs) or the other side and burns your D/A converters... it happened to me before I learned my lesson. Otherwise, there are good and probably robust ESCs.
huh D/A Converter, on the FET side of the board imine only has N-Channel and P-Channel FET's no D/A Converters. I can see the the divider networks on other side. Do you have a pic of a burnt out one (both sides) to compare
I've used two of these in my CL-415 Canadair driving turnigy L2210-1650 motors. These are a perfect match for the Canadair. Huge power for take offs, low current for cruising around. I've plugged these into a Y plug so both are powering the rx with no problems. Very highly recommended. Flying on 1 2200-3s 20c turnigy lipo.
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1 thumbs up!
Calibration should be set 1. UP the throttle stick to maximum 2. connect the battery to esc 3. beep.beep.beep~ (2seconds to throttle down to a minimum) 4. Complete the calibration set
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I use these on quad copter and these has worked well. Just make sure to download the right manual under the files tab.