The HobbyKing Red Brick ESCs wont win first place for style, though they will take top points for simplicity and reliability. With a basic set of programming features these ESCs are a perfect solution for anyone looking for a basic yet robust speed controller.
Specs. Max Amps: 10A Ubec: 5v / 1A Cells: 2~3s Lipoly Size: 38mm x 7mm 18mm Weight: 7.3g (Inc Wires)
find that suprising e_lm_70 i would have expected any cpu internal to the speed controller to be -5v and by fitting diodes in the servo supply your going to drop voltage by 0.5v per diode but servo will pull the same current from the controller,but it is nice to know there has been problems with this controller iv'e pulled red supply wire from controller and built up a 400 mah battery to supply reciever for a short test flight only problem now is waiting for the wind to drop.
I think a small external BAC can be a better option then have an external battery. In one of my experiment RC bird I used a smaller 250mAh 1S for power RX and Control Board, leaving the ESC to power servos only.
forgot to say this is on a 1300 3s 20c lipo battery the plane climbs then after the first turn you loose control then it comes back a couple more control inputs and it looses control again the servos stay were they are and dont dance around as if they have lost signal it looks like receiver power has gone or is it something i havent done to set up the esc any help would be most welcome.
I had similar problem in mine.
The BEC is weak, not only is weka, but 5v from BEC sent to rxand servo is shared with internal ESC cpu ... after upgrade 2 micros 3.7g servo to 2 micro 5g digital servo, I got the ESC to reset every time I make a fast sefvo movement ... solution for me was to add 2diode in line of 5v power to the servos for reduce power from BEC and protect esc cpu
I have this esc on a AX-2308N-1100 motor i know its at its edge with current but full throttle with an 8/6sf prop it pulls 8.4 amp.the problem is i keep loosing radio its not a glitch as servos dont dance around then i get radio back a range check works ok i have changed tranny and receiver for several others and still doing the same im beginning to think it maybe this esc shutting supply to receiver,if i wanted to try it with a separate battery for the receiver is it only a case of taking the red wire out of the esc plug and pluging my battery into the receiver.(this is doing my head in lol)
How do I calibrate the throttle input on this ESC? I am used to power the ESC with the throttle in the high position and after the first beep move it to the low position, another beep and then disconnect power, but the throttle still start at about 33% from low, any help please.
I am going to use this ESC (two of them actually) to control two EDF27s with 11000kv Motors. My question is, do I have to disconnect the positive lead in one of the ESCs, or will the ESCs handle having the power leads intact (I plan on using a y-connector to attach the ESCs to the receiver)?
That is stange since i have one of these and use it with 500 and even 800mAh 2s lipos.
So far i never had a problem. I bet that i can even use bigger lipos but they dont fit in the model im using the esc in.
Maybe your esc/motor combination gives you the trouble.
I for myself use this esc with a hextronic 2211 2300kv motor with a 500mAh 2slipo from turnigy and it runs great.
I am using this ESC on my 16 in Nutball with a HXM2211-2300 motor on a 2s batt. I use a 7X3.5 prop no problems at all. Got about 30 flights so far. Use it for indoor flying a nice littel light weight ESC
well as I said before for hobby companies to stay in business they are bulk buying HK parts and reselling them in a different package at 2 times the price. Case in point this ESC sell for 5.74$ the local hobby shop sells the same product for 12$
time we started to E mail HK and ask then to ban hugh orders like 20 motors to one location. This hobby shop uses batts, servo, ESC and motors all from HK and double the price on every item. They are so bold they don't even take the label off. They sell in house design and fit it 100% with HK parts
Reviews talk about hot or fried controllers. Maybe it is not the motor current, that is killing these babys. Got some from a friend for flashing. (Works, with SimonK-tp.hex-Firmware if you're a shurehand on the soldering iron (no pads). The HK Atmega8 Flash adatpter might be helpful here, but i have none.) The bad thing is, i found that in there are 2 7805 in parallel, which might work if they are of the same kind, but i have one with two different makes of 7805 in it and this one gets hot, when drawing 300mA from the BEC even without motor attached. Mybe HK can use some influence on the makers of these to make the use matching regulators. Would even pay an extra dollar.
Quote following of interest.
"ESC which under 20A do not allow esc option settings, in order to reduce the possibility of customers wrong setting, factory default locked the auto-detection of lithium..."
Need I write more? No instructions for some, no surprise there.
Specs. mesadesign Max Amps: 10AUbec: 5v / 1A Cells: 2~3s Lipoly Size: 40mm x 7mm 18mm Weight: 7.3g (Inc Wires) also under the FILES tab above is a manual to down load. Wiring is easy just connect it 1 to 1 any one. I hope this helps. Also the manual will tell you how to program it too.
Quote following of interest. "ESC which under 20A do not allow esc option settings, in order to reduce the possibility of customers wrong setting, factory default locked the auto-detection of lithium..." Need I write more? No instructions for some, no surprise there.
Should clear up the issues.
Sir this Electric Speed Control is meant for a brushless motor. There is some DIY guys on the NET trying to mode these to use on brushed motors. Have a G O O G L E. Let us know if you fine any thing. The problem is these controllers have 3 connects all pos out of phase with each other. Brushed controller have 2 connects pos and neg-. I hope this helps.
Generally, the BURST rating of any ESC is the maximum current that the unit can draw for very short durations, typically only a few seconds, where the "continuous" current rating is just that. Just keep in mind that these ratings are relative to the effectiveness of the individual installation cooling.