Turnigy® dlux ESCs have set a new bench mark in quality and performance. Each ESC uses a twin PCB design separating the motor power supply & MCU. This design allows for optimum component layout on each PCB and provides the ideal configuration for heat dissipation and thermal efficiency. Both PCBs are enclosed in a full aluminum heat sink casing to ensure maximum heat dispersion. All Turnigy dlux ESCs can be programmed via a programing card or by transmitter. Clear and easy to understand instructions are included.
Spec. Max Cont Current: 80A Max Burst Current: 95A BEC: N/A LiPo: 6~12S NiMH: 16~36cells Weight: 112grams Max RPM (2-pole): 200,000rpm Size: 52 x 33 x 23mm Motor Plug: Female 4mm bullet Connector Battery Plug: Nil Features: Spark Eliminator Lead with 2mm Plug
Features. Extremely low internal resistance Very low operation temperature Over temperature protection APEC MoSfets (Taiwain)
Programming Options. Battery Type: 6S~12S Forward/Reverse Soft Start LV Cut off Type (Ignore, Reduce Power, Stop Motor) LV Cut off setting (2.5~3.5v in 0.1v increments) Timing (Auto, Very Low, Low, Normal, High, Very Hgh) Switching (8,16kHz) Factory Restore Active RPM Control: On/Off (Governor Mode)
Default factory settings. Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor) Timing: Auto Frequency: 8KHz
Note: Programming box now available, check the related items below.
just like many others, my esc's will cut the throttle after 3-4 seconds at any rpm, cold.
using 6S 4500 and will try and resolder and shorten wires but doubt will help.
Im running 2 of these 80a in my Freewing su-35 because the originals died after 3 flights, along with retracts.
dont know what else to do except use different esc's.
NOOO way! You need a high amp ESC like this:
www.link Even this ESC is'nt quite big enough, but as long as you keep the amps in a safe range it should be fine. I also recommend putting 2 cooling fans on the ESC.
And one more thing, I read that motor has not been in stock for over a year.
How many cell are you using. It sounds like you are using less than six or you battery has a died /almost died cell and dropping below the cut off voltage. Either that or you are drawing more than 80Amp and it is thermo cutting. Without more information on your set up it is hard to help.
would this esc work with this motor and battery set up. ok here it goes motor BLWS235S-36V-10000 or BLWS235d-36V-10000 and two Turnigy nano-tech 8000mAh 5S 25~50C Lipo Pack or ZIPPY Flightmax 8000mAh 5S1P 30C and which one shouid I use. I am planning on building a electric go cart.
I just bought 2 of these and just noticed they are 6 cell to 12 cell. Oh !*##$!! I'm using these with a 5 Cell (5000ma 45c) as my twin 68mm aluminum Mercury EDF can only take up to 5 cell. Does any one know if these ESC will work?
I run it on 12s, works fine, I use it on a 600 size heli, and esc it self is ok.
biggest/only trouble is the softstart, even at 1%, then 2%, 3% throttle, heli rotates 70 degrees :/ My solution so far is spinning up heli by hand, which isnt optimal.
Thanks for the reply. As I understand it, ESC is powered by the receiver, too. If the receiver is powered from 2-cell LiPo (up to 8.2 V), this will give the voltage on ESC. If not, then there is no problem, as I understand from your answer.
Hi all, can someone tell me how the esc comes default set up, as above it states that the Battery is set to lipo auto detect? yet in the manual that comes with the esc it states the Battery is set to 10s. so those that have used it what did it come pre set as? many thanks, chuck
I bought one of these and I cant get it to power on to program it. Is there a trick to these (the anti spark wire). Maybe I'm not doing something right. I'm hoping its not a bad esc. Any help would b great.
I had the same trouble. You need a separate power supply (BEC, receiver battery) to power the programmer. I can't remember which gets plugged in first, but my problems were solved when I used the external power.
I used a receiver battery as well. the Programmer powers on, but none of the buttons work. I tried hooking the esc up to a motor and it does not transfer power to the motor. Hobby king has not answered any of my emails for the past 2 weeks. I will give it another shot i guess. it just doesn't seem like the esc is powering on.
Hmmm... good luck. I had trouble getting mine to power up too - I had to change the number of cells to 6 instead of automatic (I'm running mine on a 12S setup). But I could only do that after I used the programmer!
Okay I got this fixed. I had to be very specific about the order I did everything in. I had to plug the ESC into the programming box. Then the ESC and BEC into the battery and then the BEC output into the programming box 2nd port). Then it worked.
I thought I had tried this order at least twice before but there you go.
Thanks for the prompt responses.
I thought this might be an issue with the version of box but both my version4 and 1 work with this ESC.I plugged the motor into ESC and then the RX plug into the box.A 4.8v nimnh was then connectyed to the box power input and the box would light up with the version screen.To get the box to move off this sreen the main power input had to be connected to a 4S Lipo.The down button would then be pressed giving access to all programming functions but not of course data logging.
Bardzo dobry i tani regulator, testuje go w HK600 motor TURNIGY 600 840KV oczywiscie na 12S po locie regiel lekko cieply , nie latam ostrego 3D tylko drobne fikolki , silnik moze sporo wiecej ale pilot narazie niechce jego nadmiaru mocy.
I am running this esc on a 30cc yak with a KA63-28S motor and 2 6cell lipo’*s in series (Making it a 12 cell setup). Can someone help me with a problem I picked up? This setup has more than enough power, in fact it takes off on half throttle. The problem is, if I go over half throttle the motor makes a screeching noise and looses rpm’*s. Why don’*t I have a full linear throttle?
After changing the timing from automatic to medium it seemed a bit better. Changing the timing to high caused smoke to come out of the motor after 5 sec. I am thinking 12 cells gives to much rpm. I am going to run it on 10 cells.
Might wanna also check motor out..pain I know but if she smoked could heat up glue for magnetsor one might be loose also with smoke can leave residue on armature..just to make sure re-oil bearings so on ..what about prop change?so you can keep 12c set up or is it clarence issue?
Hi Myles I gave you a credit just because you cofirmed my findings. I did open the motor and found all the magnest loose. I glued them all back and tested it again. The motor was so strong that it pulled right out of the alliminium mount and destroyed the nose of the plane. At least I got the throttle to go to 100%. I am busy rebuilding the plane and will do a test flight next week.
Just got one of these my self..wondered same..the wire is apart of a anti spark setup.. the small wire goes to a capacitor..befor pluggin in ..just saves connector on pluggin end so it dont weld over time..used mine for light feed..hope its helpful
malcom you need to add a 2mm female connector to the positive (red wire) on your battery. Start with connecting the ESC black wire to the battery black wire, then the 2mm red wire to battery red wire. The spark is created when capacitor gets powered up. If you charge it up slower there is no spark. Which protects you connector. There is a resistor in small red lead that allows the capacitors to charge up slower when using the 2mm plug. Wait a few seconds, then plug in the main connector to battery. So it goes to battery. A bit fiddly and you cannot us a T plug or XT60. I hope this helps.
The small red wire is part of an anti-spark system. High voltage setups can produce large sparks upon connection as the ESC capacitors rapidly charge up, the small red wire will have an inline resistor and be connected before hooking up the large red wire to eliminate the spark and save your connectors.
tommywatson you need to add a 2mm female connector to the positive (red wire) on your battery. Start with connecting the ESC black wire to the battery black wire, then the 2mm red wire to battery red wire. The spark is created when capacitor gets powered up. If you charge it up slower there is no spark. Which protects you connector. There is a resistor in small red lead that allows the capacitors to charge up slower when using the 2mm plug. Wait a few seconds, then plug in the main connector to battery. So it goes to battery. A bit fiddly and you cannot us a T plug or XT60. I hope this helps.
Ah not exactly: Opto doesn't apply to the BEC at all. You can have a Opto coupled with a BEC or without. To quote another* "OPTO is supposed to mean 'opto-coupled', where the throttle signal is coupled into the ESC via a light beam. The idea is that there is no direct electrical connection between the receiver and the business end of the ESC, therefore stopping electrical inteference from travelling down the wiring into the receiver."
As you get higher in voltage and amps, there is a lot of what is termed noise, that can feed to the Rx and start interfering with control. Light or the Opto system does not conduct current and thus doesn't carry the noise as instructions are relayed to the Rx. There are other setups that use a similar control system for the same reason but as an ultimate, which FS fighter aircraft use, is an entire fibre system to control all components via an SBUS setup. Thats way down the road top shelf stuff but same idea.
Should work fine ..depends on motor also..but yeah not a bad esc ..really..$ worth it cheap enough to have it kickin round as an extra too...
Running on 85" 3D Hobby Shop Katana with SK-6374 170KV and 24x8 prop on 12S 5000mah. Drawing 80amp in static test, no component overheating. Hover at less than half throttle, strong pull out. After 2 rounds of Static Ground Testing and 2 flights, very happy with the ESC.
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hI, I have received this ESC, since 1 months ago. Vittal information about 2 mm red wire is missing in the manual, could any explain me where this red wire goes conected? and which is its function? Thanks FLYDADY
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Dobry tani regulator , testuję go w Trex 600 esp z silnikiem Turnigy 600 4030 840KV , jestem po kilku lotach sportowych bez 3D na pakiecie 12S Turnigy 3000mAh regiel jest dorze ciepły nie gorący więc pewnie będzie można z niego coś pociągnoć.
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Betreibe den Regler mit einem Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5065-275kv Motor an 10s 5000mAh 30C mit einem RFM 16x8 Carbon-Klapppropeller in einer ASH 26 mit 5m Spannweite und 9.6kg Gewicht. Das Modell geht beinahe senkrecht. Der Strom liegt bei 65A und die Leistung bei 2400W! Da die Einschaltdauer nur etwa 15s pro Steigflug ist und nachher abkühlen kann im Gleitflug ist das Setup unkritisch. Nach der Landung hat der Regler ca. 50°C