USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
The L-4 was the military version of the J-3 Cub, Piper said that the conversion to a military spec was no more difficult than some green paint! Used for artillery fire direction, front line liaison, glider pilot instruction and as a courier plane, it would be fair to say that the L-4 was a total success in military form, the L-4 also has the distinction of participating in the last dogfight of WW2 (ETO) when it was involved in a pistol fight with a Fiesler Storch!
This superbly built ARF suits a 20cc gas engine and of course would also accept around 1.20 glow, it would also be an easy electric conversion, requiring a minimum of a 6s power train. The scale color scheme features invasion stripes, ideal for orientation, also there are many scale details that will make this a model to be proud of, they include full scale, working under-carriage, scale rigging and struts, vac formed windows and so on. For practicality, one door is hinged and secured with magnets, and the 2pc removable wing makes transportation a synch.
Por favor podria alguien de HK informarme ¿* cuando estara el L-4 en existencia en el almacen de USA ?, o por lo menos un aprox, o si ya busco otro avion. gracias, espero pronta respuesta
What exactly is this cub covered in? From what I've been hearing the covering is not durable. I like the scale, but I don't want to buy problems, can someone that has this model elaborate on the covering?
Don't know what covering brand but it is light weight. Not a reason not to buy it, but you have to be careful when you build it and transport it as it is thin. I've caught the fuse on a tree top that I swore I would clear and a small tear resulted. I merely bought some olive drab colored duct tape and trimmed it modestly and its held very well. Can't see it and frankly even if you could it adds to the scale of the military "patch and go" mentality of airplane maintenance.
Please can you explain why it needs 7 servos (in discription)? Please help me. ps. people on International warehouse page told that I need only 5 servos...
This airplane has two servos in the left wing for flap and aileron, two servos in the right wing for flap and aileron, a servo for the elevator, a servo for the Rudder, and a servo for the throttle. A total of seven servos. I have a friend that has this airplane, I think it looks very good. The landing work very well and the wheels are similar to Durbro cub wheels.
Bought it today 5/19/2011. I am in USA. Will do electric power. I will look here for future posts regarding any problems and solutions. I will also post any that I find and how I solve them. This should be fun.
Got mine today. Has the same problem with reversed guide tubes for rudder/elevator. What is the solution other than taking the bottom off of the plane and rerouting the tubes? I am reluctant as it appears to be paint over a coating. My access doors are very warped and will have to be removed and straightend with water and a heat gun. One bows out the other bows in. Could be a nice plane but for the backwards guide tubes.
Snappy, Nice build info. I had to make the plywood gussets for the door latch today as they were missing. Bit of a pain. Are the tubes for the elevator and rudder reversed in your fuse? Mine are. Since I am going to probably put floats on this sometine in the future I would like the servos in the fuse. Any idea on how to fix this without taking the bottom off of the fuse to re-route the tubes? The lower access door on mine was so warped I had to take it off and hit it with a heat gun to get it somewhat straight damaging the cover of course. It looks like a nice plane but I have spent lots of time fixing defects and omissions on the one I received. I will keep looking at your blog as I hae already gotten some good ideas there.
Snappy, Thanks so much for all of the info. I wish I had seen this thread before I started putting mine together. What you show are much better ideas and products/techniques.
Raaw, live in Canada, just one hour drive from U.S.A. border. Regularily have stuff shipped from there to my home and sometimes when shipping not available to Canada I will have it shipped to a friends place that lives in U.S.A. which is already registered to my paypal account. Can I not order from an hour south of me rather than the other side of the world?? Apparently not. You have lost a few sales to me over this.
Attention
You are located in CA but one or more products in your cart are from the US warehouse and cannot be shipped to your country. Remove the product from your cart and add the International warehouse item with the same SKU.
all your products you want to order have to be from the same locaton. FOR instance .. L4 from USA, and 50cc gas motor from international ware house witll give you that error message. I ordered the plane from USA ,, and then made a new order for motor and servos from iternational.. HOPE this helps
Unfortunately the weight of 7.1 kg. can not be sent to Brazil (the maximum weight limit would be 6.0 kg). HK could have option to send their products in two steps. That would be very useful.
Grasshopper L4 arrived 1 day early from WA, All packed very well, but still 2 minor dings and some sagging film on fuselage, All very good so far, Found bad alignment of right front landing gear hinge to frame, When I tried to align it, the weld broke, ***mer! I will try to get it fixed ..
I have this kit from the USA warehouse. Yes it does come with scale dummy cylinders and shrouds. They are made of the same plastic as the windows and will need to be painted. Very nice detailed ARF. One more awesome detail. This thing is covered with fabric, not shiny monokote and then professionally painted with multiple colors. Just the paint job alone is worth the price of the kit.
I'll try that again with less gramatical mistakes & you can post a clever reply & get another 20 cents. So 'snappy' has your Piper Cub got retracts too ? Give me a good answer so I can have you credited with 20 cents too !
(So 'snappy' has your Piper Cub got retracts too ?)
You forgot to mention that there should be no space between the "too" and the "?".
Go forth and fly.
this is a cmpro model. my question is, yyyy does it not show the flaps??? is this there knock off for hk?? or does it have and come with flaps?? would make sence for the number of servos needed. anyone have a answer...
The undercarriage is identical to the CMPro J3. I love the L4 i converted My Thunder Tiger J3 to a L4 best thing iv'e done looks fantastic in the air but if she goes in i may be purchasing on of these
could be a FEW THINGS1 servo if you use gas or glow power . 2 for ailorons , 1 elevator or 2 (depending)1 rudder. if it e power one less dont need for motor. thas about it as far as i can see. It will be 1 less if you go e power
Channel 1 aileron (2 servos)
Channel 2 elevator (2 servos)
Channel 3 throttle (1 servo)
Channel 4 rudder (1servo)
Channel 5 choke (1 servo)
I am assuming thisnis the servo layout.. Will see in a few days, ordered from USA wear house. This will be an electric conversion.
Anyone have pics or website with your electric conversion?
Customer Reviews
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califward
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I do not usually review products but this plane deserves a write up. First, in spite of the 3 star rating I really like a lot about this product. It arrived in high standards: heavy box, each piece in foam and plastic covered. The parts were well finished, no loose covering, overrunns etc. Th construction was impressive - didn't spaare gleu, looks strong. And this is the BEST PART THE PIECES ARE SO BIG THAT IT IS LIKE PLAYING WITH A 3 YEAR OLD'S PUZZEL! IT goes together so nicely!. No squeezing your hand in places it cannot fit. Now the rating. Maybe I missed something but it seems the tubes leading from the rudder and elevator are reversed. Rudder tubes lead to elevator servo and elevator tubes lead to rudder servo. It is going to take some fusealge mod to get that to work to my satisfaction. Missing parts: 0nly one elevator push rod. Plans indicate push rod keepers but could find none. Tail wheel assembly made for 90 degree installation but angle between bottom of fuse and leading edge of rudder is greater than 90 degrees - made wedge to fit. Re-engineer and QC parts in box and I raise stars!
Caveat - I am still building. I will install electric Turnigy 160 on 9 cells, and a 18x12 or 19x10 prop. Look for updates.
7 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
califward
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Update day 2 of building: I installed the rudder and stab controls as shown in plans. Pull-pull on rudder is satisfactory but pushrod to elevators drags a lot and is unexceptable. Pretty much figured I would have to mod the fuse and exchange the rudder and elevator tubes to make it ok. Decided to sleep on it. Went to power plant. Thought I had a Turnigy 160. I did not. But I did have a Turnigy 6364-280 and a Sentilon 100 ESC . I had used in in a 15lb SE5a and knew it would have enough juice. Prop 18x12 or 19x12 will pick after I meter them. I have some oak stock from cabinetry work around. I make my motor mounts from oak and drill appropriate holes. The ESC is screw into side of motor mount and wiring is strapped. The firewall has two knocks toward the bottom. Removed these and ran wiring through there. I put in batteries. 5000 5s and a 5000 4s will be used in series for 9 cell. Surprisingly there is a ton of room in the fuse directly under the windshield. You could build a battery box and secure them near the fire but again, surprisingly the balance is better further back from firewall. I put the wings on and marked the CG and lifted the plane. It was slightly nose heavy. Serindipidous! I could now solve 2 problems with one move. I removed the elevator servos from the cockpit area and rested them on the horiz stab. I lifted the plane by the CG and bala
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califward
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About this point I do not consider this an ARF. Maybe a KIARF. Half Kit, half ARF. Installing windows. Outline window frame with magic marker. Use canopy glue (do not use CA. It can fog plastic) Put glue on back of window edges Press window to frame and spread glue on frame. Secure (with tape) let dry. WING STRUTS. Glue wing struts as shown. Note on the bottom of the fuse between the landing gear mounts there is a dimple that should be for attaching the wing strut. After test fitting a number of times I decided moving the point about 1/8” toward the edge of the fuse would provide a better fit. (you don’t have to believe me, check it out yourself). The rest is straight forward. Secure the mount to the fuse. Secure the strut to the fuse mount. Secure the wing mount to the bolts. Drill holes and bolt the whole thing together. COWL. Before you do anything with the cowl MAKE SURE THE MOTOR TURNS THE RIGHT WAY AND ALL HARDWARE IS FASTENED SECURELY. Once covered you do not want to disassemble. Traditionally the cowl mounts by running 4 screws through the cowl into tabs on the fuse and the cowl is done. I don’t like this for 3 reasons. 1: In the event of a crash the screws will be ripped out tearing chunks out of the cowl nessisstating purchase of a new one. 2: Sticky out screws ruin scale appearance (ok, any appearance. I like smooth) 3:Once you drill the
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:Once you drill the holes your stuck. Try this. Instead of screws get some heavy duty double-sided sticky tape. I first found this “for outdoors” at Sears. I cut 4 tabs about 3/8 x3/8. Mount these on the fuse where the screws might go. Test fit the cowl. Remove the covering from the tape and slowly slide the cowl back in place. When it looks perfect press on tabs. I’ve used this on a number of electric planes and it has never failed.
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califward
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Went flying this weekend. The Scale Squadron of Southern California Fun Fly at PVMAC field at Prado Dam, California. Weather was great tho a little breezy in the afternoons. How did the L-4 do. I set the throws a 3/4” to 1” all around. The 6364 motor with a nine cell (4cell 5 Cell) provided vertical power with rolls! but a 1/2 throttle was very respectable (code for scale). I will keep that configuration. All in all flight characteristics were all I could hope for. Hammerheads, loops, rolls all the plane did was make me look a better pilot than I am. HOWEVER, there is one great annoyance. I guess when you are working on a plane you are more careful than when you are at the field, because I did not notice this until I was flying. The covering material is horribly fragile. I bumped a wing on roll out and the material split on the wing tip. I rolled over weeds and they poked a hole in the wing. I lifted the plane and my fingers went through the belly. I really wonder how this material will hold up on fuel planes? Sorry, but no 5 crowns. OK, HOBBY KING ARE YOU LISTENING. I would love it if you could offer this plane as a KIT. Same hardware, laser cut balsa and plywood, maybe a Cub or L-4 option. Let me customize it, but a reasonably priced KIT. I think you could out sell Telemaster. Oh, I need to mention the instructions -VERY WELL DONE. If you cannot foll
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