Our largest ESC yet! the Turnigy Fatboy speed controller is rated at a massive 300 Amp continuous current draw and 380 Amp burst!
The Fatboy features a large Aluminum heat sink case, twin brushless cooling fans, dual 10AWG input wires, built in anti-spark protection and 8mm female bullet terminals for the motor output.
A programming box has also been included with the Turnigy Fatboy to make setup fast and easy. This ESC is suited to large scale 100cc plus Electric conversions.
Specs. Voltage: 18.5V-55.5V (5s-15s Lipo) Current: 300A (380A surge within 10 seconds) BEC: No BEC (Opto) Size: 19cm x 12cm x 4.9cm Weight: 850g
Programming Features. Auto detect Lipo cells Fully Programmable LVC Current limiting Cutoff type Brake type Timing advance Start up type Governor mode.
WARNING This ESC is suited to R/C model applications only. Do not attempt to use it to power Push Bikes, Mountain boards, go-karts or similar machines. The programming logic is only designed for R/C Plane and Heli use. No warranty will be offered for incorrect use of this item.
contact me on brightfranklin26-*-y-a-h-o-o.c-o-m or brunotollot-*-virgilio-.-it for better quality speed controller not a ****py type on hobbyking for all rc purposes and offroad ebike,don't forget to take the dashes off and put the words together
all hobbyking speed controllers are **** for good quality controller contact this guy on ebay he sells the best controller so far for boat,ebikes,cars and lot more of other projects *******stores.ebay****/alienpowersystem tell him you are referenced by kelvin scott
tbh i intend on using this for exactly what it says not to ehe.. i wanna make an electric powered scooter or something similar. Surely this speedy will still power a brushless motor and hobbyking does have a huge one for over $100.. if you only ran it on 6s aswell or something surely there wouldnt be enough load to burn this speedy, especially if the drive chain was geared down quite significantly. Has anyone tried this though or can confirm that it will definitely NOT work? will appreciate any feedback cheers.
I have been trying to put this on an electric motorcycle but the throttle takes over ten seconds to get up to speed (if the throttle stick is thrown to full throttle the controller acts like the throttle is being turned up slowly) I have not found a solution to this problem.
I am only about 115 lbs and the motorcycle is a little honda s65. The esc will only go about 3 mph before getting out of sync with the motor and causes lots of cogging/squealing from the motor, also the programming card does not work and as I bought this esc on ebay (hobbyking being the seller) they will not give me a new on.
I have played around with every function and managed to get it to get up to about 25mph but it acts like I am slowly applying throttle even if I throttle up quickly and it takes about one city block to get up to speed.
For my tests I was using 2 5000 mah 6s lipo packs rated for 20c continuous and I have a hard time seeing this pulling over 200 amps at these speeds on flat ground. Should I try a larger battery or will I get the same result?
Best idea is to always over amp the speed controller. Battery u were using is 5000mah 20c. So 50x2=100amps u need a battery rated 5000 65c - 5000 80c before it works. Oh and never use lower amPed lipos on high Amp power. systems thinking it will be safe cos the lipo will puff and poP like a balloon into flames
Is the first 950kb file under files correct or is it not correct as sombody said?
When calebrating the reciever the manual says that you should hold full throttle until it beeps. Can I be sure the motor don't speed up like hell when I calebrate it. I have a very powerfull motor that I am a little afraid of.... :-)
mine worked well for 2 flights and now tells me it cannot receive throttle signal also the program box does not work the program by tx given on this sight is also incorrect i think this speedy is just not sorted out correctly before it was released even the maker of it has not released it yet which makes you think there could be a problem inbuilt
since found out the information supplied by this site under the file site is wrong on two counts.
this speedy is a opto set up this means there is no bec so the red wire is not to be cut... also with the program box the wireing set out is also incorrect the supplied lead has only has 3 outlets. the 3 lead plug goes into the throttle plug of the the speedy, the 2 wire goes to the 2 wire plug of the speedy. the other 3 wire goes to the programmer the prop should be removed (for safety) the speedy sould be powered up as normal then it should all work ok this information has been supplied by the manufacturer which have been very helpful to me and put me on the right track regards john www.link
HI wheels this speedy is all ok the problem was with me it all worked for 2 flights and then stopped. i have sent it back to the makers and found out it is an opto speedy so don't cut the red wire to the receiver. also the programer does work if you ignor the instructions on the hobbycity site and just plug the 3 wire plug into the 3 wire plug of the speedy, the 2 wire goes to the 2 wire plug of the speedy and the other 3wire plug goes into the programer 3pin then for safety remove the proppeller and plug in the batteries into the speedy all should work ok hopeing this helps if not just email and i will try to help regards john snr
I have a battery of five cells, each cell V3.7 I wanted to know if you can set this up in the box programming And what does the rest of the settings in the small box? (All the parameters listed in the table of explanations booklet) Thank you. Eli
Hi, my programmbox also did not work an i returnd my one olso, till now wihout any help, but maybe I can help since Today I have a dokumentation how to prgramm the ESC by using a Transmitter, I did not test it but it still looks god, have a look to files it will be the last on 82K
I returned 2 of the 300 fatboy speed controls that were defective out of the box over 6 months ago. They have not replaced them or given any return communication. I have spent several thousand dollars with them . What do I do?
Perhaps you didn't understand that these are "Opto" speed controllers and do not power your receiver? Many people are confused as to what Opto means, as in there in no internal BEC to power the receiver and servo's. You would need to use a separate 6s or 4.8v receiver pack, or a small lipo and external UBEC to power the receiver.
I can't set the travel on my Fatboy 300, when I set the throttle to max, and turn on the esc it goes into the programming mode, If I try to run the esc, I have to turn the motor by hand while adding throttle, or it just re-arms. after running for 5-10 seconds, it just shut off. The programming module does not work. Can this esc be programmed from the throttle stick, and if so how, thanks....Karl
I can't set the travel on my Fatboy 300, when I set the throttle to max, and turn on the esc it goes into the programming mode, If I try to run the esc, I have to turn the motor by hand while adding throttle, or it just re-arms. after running for 5-10 seconds, it just shut off. THe programming module does not work. Can this esc be programmed from the throttle stick, and if so how, thanks....Karl
Is it possible to program without the program card? I bought one from hobby king through **** (they have it cheaper on **** than it is for a platinum member on their own website!) and the card was dead out of the box and I am having troubles getting another. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I was looking around the programming card category and found the Turnigy Program Box for Aqua-Star and Super-Brain esc's and it lookes almost identical and has the same dimensions and I was wondering if it could be used to program this esc or at least the features it advertises?
I would be willing to take a picture for you if you would sell me a programming box from one unit if you end up buying two (my program box does not work and since I bought mine on e.b.a.y., I cannot get hobbyking to give/sell me a new one).
Wouldnt recommend it since there is a posibility of sync problems which ends up in poor running motors if at all. But if both was equally loadad all the time no matter what then it -might- work but dont count on it to 100% and the start could still be problematic.
if both motors are hooked together shaft to shaft and the stators in the motors line up AND the magnets line up- north to north it may work but I would say buy two 150 amp esc's and use a y splitter on the throttle cables.
Actually, 3.7V is the nominal voltage of a lipo cell, reached when the cell is discharged to about 20% capacity. A pack showing 3.7V/cell is essentially empty* running it below 20% capacity will permanently damage the cells. A fully charged cell has a voltage of 4.2V. The 55.5V rating is playing off the fact that a lot of people just go off what's written on the battery label, which is virtually always the nominal voltage.
Actually you are wrong TP/XX. 3.2v is the nominal cut-off voltage programmed into most ESC's when they go into LVCO. The 3.2v is under load and the cells will recover to a higher voltage when the load is removed. If you are programming your LVCO to 3.7v you must be getting about a minute of flight time if you are flying anything other than a paper airplane.
I assure you I'm quite correct. I never said anything about a low-voltage cutoff or loaded voltage* you seem to have assumed those for yourself. At a resting voltage (RESTING VOLTAGE = NO LOAD) of 3.7V/cell, the pack will be right around 20% capacity. Full (100% capacity) voltage is 4.2V/cell, which is the original point I was making anyway.
Guys - you are getting way to wrapped around the axle on this one...HK often uses 3.7v to represent cell counts when giving a range for voltage* however, sometimes they provide a 'max voltage' spec (which isn't what is shown here). The 18.5v~55.5v spec isn't a 'max voltage' spec. It is simply 3.7v times what the product shows for acceptible cell counts.
HK does this all the time with other products too, often showing 11.1 as a representation of 3s (whether you want to call it 'nominal, no load, etc), when in fact fully charged 3s (*12.6v) is perfectly fine for that product. Again, if there was a hard cut-off at 55.5v then it would be listed as "max voltage = 55.5v", and this would be a 13s device, which neither of ar true here...
Hey everyone - I just received the ESC document from Hifei and uploaded it to the Files tab. Two things: 1] This must be a very early version of the manual as some of its details are slightly (but disastrously) different. 2] The file name I provided isn't shown. The current file name says "no file name"! How weird is that? Oh well, it's something to start with.
I uploaded the manual a second time with a new file name. Still won't display what I used for a name and I'm sure there's no 'illegal' characters used. Both files are identical so just close your eyes and pick one :-)
Anthony, how come the Fatboy doesn't have telemetry like Fulcrum esc made by Hifei? From their website it says "HiFei FULCRUM series ESC is not just an incredible ESC, but integrated with telemetry function. Through a pocket LCD display, people can monitor the realtime important parameters *of *flight,such as:
Please enable the Fatboy to have these features.
Not a question but some useful informaion:
HIFEI TECHNOLOGY LTD is the manufacture of this ESC and I just sent them an email requesting documentation. Hopefully I'll have it soon and can post a file to the 'Files' section of this product's page.
The 2mm female bullet is the filter capacitor pre-charge fitting. There's so much capacitance waiting on the input side that to lessen connector erosion you need to use a low current for a few seconds to bring the caps slowly up to battery voltage first, then make the big, high-current connection. I constructed an intermediate wiring harness to still allow two, paralleled power sources but let me use the pre-charge connection before making the main, high-current connection. Anyone want to see it? The signal input lead is not removable. It's soldered to the edge of the PC board with a dab of hot-melt glue to act as a strain relief. There's a second small-gauge cable (two conductor) used to supply 5V to the programming box only. It does supply enough current to run my Hitec servo programmer but I wouldn't use it for anything requiring solid 5V.
I built a pre-charge circuit. I added a 30 amp by pass switch with a 100 ohm resistor, in place of the small by pass wires others use, but I just hit the switch. Then I connect a main plug, in my case a 6 mm plug, where others use the small deans plug. Then I can switch off the small 30 amp switch. No spark at all! I use it on my giant scale corsair with a 65cc rimfire motor and CC 160hv ESC and 12s 5800 zippy batteries,(2 6s in series) have 5 flights on it so far. Batteries, motor and ESC holding up good so far.
I use EMCOTEC power switches. These are solid state power switching so that that your 15cell plane will not be live until you flick a switch on your transmitter. The one I use is rated at 360amp continuous!! They are brilliant. They also eliminate any sparking because the circuit is not live when battery connection are made. Just search on EMCOTEC.
Here we go - my first contribution ever. Have today received Fatboy Turnigy 300A ESC 5 ~ 15S - (OPTO) and it looks undeniably exciting. Is the performance of the product as it have the appearance to - it will be a truly wonderful acquaintance. immensely, I am looking forward to test the product.
The long journey to Denmark has given a few small cosmetic bruises, nothing of significance. Of Course we do not know how to Danish Customs is processing the goods during their examinations.
Thanks to HK, for the fast delivery
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Just installed the big turnigy motor on my 1/3 scale J-3 cub. Connected the fatboy 300 up and set the throttle limits as per the instructions. Works great on 6 cells (1kw with a 28-10) When I connect 12 cells up, it arms o.k. but as soon as you give it any throttle, it turns 10 degrees of rotation or so and stops, you close the throttle and it rearms and does the same thing over again. can't get the esc to run on more that 6 cells, the programming card does not work, is there a way to program this esc with the throttle stick??
6 comments. Reply..
After receiving this esc I found out that the programing box did not work. The esc kind of works but the timing needs to be different for it to work well with my motor (as is it runs it up to about 10pcnt throttle) and there is no way for me to change any settings without a programming card.