The Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp ESC is a stand out performer. Using quality IR HEXFET® Power MOSFETs developed in the USA, this ESC is cable of handling current draw in excess of 40 amps. However this in house designed ESC was developed and produced by the HobbyKing engineering team with one goal in mind, quality and reliability. Rather than over rate the ESC and push it to the limit with a larger heat-sink, as many companies do, we wanted to design a Speed controller for those looking for a bullet proof solution. We use SMT technology rather than hand soldering to produce consistent quality and reliability each and every time. The TY-P1 25A ESC also features independent voltage regulators (One for the BEC and one for the MCU) this ensures the MCU will remain powered in the event of a high momentary amp draw from the BEC circuit and vise versa. An XT-60 battery connector and 3.5mm bullet connectors have been pre-soldered for convenience.
I bought 4 turnigy 25a esc's for my NTM propdrive 28-26 1350kv/310w motors and 3I of them smoked at first startup and the 4th one pulsates at Mid throttle. does anyone know what electronic speed controls to use.
Ohm's law sates: amps x volts = Watts. Therefore: with a 3s battery(12v), a 20amp esc will handle a 300w... So, you are a little undersized but I doubt you are so under rated to smoke them instantly. Look for another problem.
hello, i would like to know what's your advice on multirotor settings for this speed controller.
What options should I choose in my programming card and why?
In case anyone's interested in this pruduct, the buddy code is =9455F967-4482-4150-9C0C-9164368CDF78
Ok, I recommend not using them at all, and using the Bluseries 30A ESC instead, flashed with SimonK. The reason is simple: They burn out. Look at the numerous posts from people that have had them smoke on them, multirotors and fixed wing. I myself had on smoke on me, and my throttle was off. If you don't believe it, try it, and come back, you won't be the first or last.
I only bought 1 of these for testing purposes only, my intent was to discover the best possible configuration/settings to use with these speed controllers for multirotors projects. for my multirotor (Y configuration) i bought 3 turnigy multistar 30A, but i believe I made a bad choice of motors, I bought the Turnigy D3536/9 910KV Brushless Outrunner Motor.
Well, I was looking st this motor, and the prop size is way too big, and it will spin way too slow. You really should run smaller props, and a much higher KV motor. I don't know the dimensions on you tri-copter, but 1050g of thrust is a lot! 7 pounds of thrust, that is almost enough to lift a bowling ball. Look around a little more, there are better choices.
I was riding on a cuadracopter, when smoke came out one of the engines, the engine stay well. Claims are useless, because you can first send, they have franchise, second you can not prove, because you will not ride again and wait it smokes for video. If you are reading these comments, should remove the product from sale.
If you flasear with Simonk, I would like to know where the program, unless they indicate the steps to repair them.
I've given up claims
My advice is to pay with paypal, try as they arrive and make reclacion through Paypal, is more effective
This will explain in simple English why there is a problem with using the TYP-1 ESC with any multi-copter. A lot of people are complaining about why these ESC's don't work and in a lot of cases burn out. It's because the firmware supplied in the micro-controller on this ESC is designed for RC planes, - not multi copters. The propeller on a plane is not fussy about how long it takes to get up to full RPM. But the Multicopter requires an instant response in RPM, - and this ESC won't do that, it will ramp up to the RPM you have commanded through your transmitter, but over several micro-controller clock cycles, this is known as Hysteresis. This time lag can result in conflicting and overlapping commands, which can result in MOSFET failure or extreme instability of the vehicle. This particular ESC is well made, but only if it is used for what it was designed for. It's not a problem with the ESC, it's a problem with the way it's being used. If you want to use it for tri or quad or any multi copter, you will have to re-flash the firmware. There is a firmware substitute available from SimonK. I would suggest that the Hobbyking Flash tool, item: 332000007 be used for re-flashing. And the only programming card to use is the: TYP1-25A-PC. I hope this answers some of the confusion surrounding this ESC.
This is not accurate. Mine burned out when it was not running, and on a fixed wing plane. These would work fine in multi-rotor applications had it not been for the fact they are unreliable. They could have defective firmware, and I have heard some people are successfully using them in multi-ri=otors, after flashing them. Multi-rotors require a softer spin up than fixed wing planes, not "instantaneous" spin up. Thanks for hypothesizing for everyone, but really, these little units smoked for a reason, not exclusive to multi-rotor application.
Well, it is what it is EffinA. This ESC was the source of a lot of frustration for me and nearly had me leaving the hobby Before I got started. This was well over a year ago and I am surprised to see this product still being sold. If what "tech12" says is true then shame on HK for not making that clear in it's product description. Ultimately, no matter the application, the firmware should never pose fatal consequences to its hardware.
**** FOR THOSE WHO ARE CONSIDERING * STAY AWAY FROM THIS ESC ****
Mystery Blue Series
I've built my SK450 quadcopter but I can't get my motors (NTM 28 1000KV/315W).
I believe that my ESC (Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp) are all (4 of them) defective.
When I connect the battery to the ESC's they all make a beeping sound and rotate very litte (1 degree back and forth).
Can someone tell me what to do?
I bought my 5th Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp ESC to replace one that had burned. When I installed the new ESC, the motors does not run at the speed of the other 3 that are mounted on my quadcopter. It seems this ESC has a problem. I already connected the motor to other ESC and the motor runs fine. It just not runs well with this ESC. The sound of it arming is also diferent from the other 3, as is the speed.
I suppose this is a defective ESC!?
I just don't want to throw away my investments in these ESCs :(... I just connected the programing card to the new ESC and it does not even light any LED. All other ESCs do light up. It must really be faulty. Already sent a request to support but got no reply yet...
I don't blame you! I will tell you that it is better to discover bad ESC's on the ground than in the air. I put one in an F4U Funfighter (22A draw), and it smoked with the throttle off! You can do this the easy way, or the hard way, but with a multi-rotor, I would prefer the easy way.
They credited me for mine. These ESC's like to smoke, so I recommend the Blueseries 30A instead. There is some stuff that needs to be done to get them to work, but I did not investigate, once mine smoked.
hello * Effina,
I think the bug is due to a problem of HEXFET Power MOSFET in power if not controlled by the CPU are a short circuit, if you have a battery that peak at more than 150 amperes the HEXFET they will burn.
I noticed this because I used to be a Lipo 3S 4000mA / h 30C peak that can give 120A but it was not efficient because it is worn, now I use a 3S 5000mA / h 45C peak that can give 225A, this involves the breaking of the HEXFET. We should limit the peak current in power, I found a remedy by inserting a 470 ohm resistor on the positive, to limit the peak current, and short-circuit the resistance to the use of flight.
I see, but I will have to say "design flaw", then move on. I smoked mine with a Turnigy Nano-tech 4s 850mA battery, which is not high, so not a great theory. You should be able to run anything 2s, 3s, or 4s, and not have a problem, oh well.
I am glad I found out on only one ESC. I look here from time to time to see if anyone complains about this ESC. I will probably never get another one, but I want to see how long it takes for the bugs to get fixed.
My ESC worked fine during testing and when I went to the field to fly itm it just burned. I started to see smoke coming out of the ESC and the motor stopped working.
Is there warranty for this ? what should I do ?
Mine was the same way (fortunately, on the bench), and I told customer support, which credited me $10. I will not get another one of these, and I replaced it with a Blueseries 30A ESC. that works perfect.
Just finished 450 build:
Firefly 450 frame
NTM Prop Drive 28-26 1000KV / 315W
Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp HEXFET Brushless Speed Controllers
Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045SF
Build went like a dream - powered up 2/3 times into the hover before fine tune. Then powered up and smoke from No.2 then three ESC. Are these esc's compatable with my build? Anyone have any thoughts on this please. Well gutted so need to replace ESC asap. Many thanks Richard
Just a badly made ESC, first one of mine blew on initial setup. It also destroyed my motor. $32 AUD to replace, and today after a flight and a repower up, it overamped again and toasted up itself and another motor. It is so bad......
sorry i was commenting on the hk 30amp/3ubec blue color esc. those are the ones that i used. im not sure how i was on this page other than i think it might be the same for firmware but im not for sure. even on the ones i did get i bought one extra and it was a good thing cause one smoked plugging it in but i think i had the wrong update firmware for a different esc flashed at the time nothing was working right till i flashed the right flsh then bingo. i wonder if these guys are flashing first or just trying it for connection cause you need to flash first or they do smoke somtimes.
only one esc is needed to power fc. opto esc does not have internal bec cicuit to power the fc or the receiver.you might need a ubec from the battery to the fc.try not to cut any wires on esc,just raise small tab on center(red) wire and remove it from connector.
Many thanks for the reply, have ordered 4 more BEC speed controllers, have electric helicopters, first time for quads and first time to ask a question. really helpful, again many thanks to you.
i have 3. 1 ok and 2 works but cannot be programmed with card. i connect it and than feed the esc. programming card led switch on but with weak light.. and esc beep as it was without reciver signal.
no way to program both... any idea?
Hello, I have a problem with this esc, when you start making a special sound (normal) then 3 beeps, waits 2 seconds and makes a short beep around, while the other 3 esc also make a long beep. When I try to fly, this motor is braked and has the same power as the rest. What can it be? I've tried everything and do not know what else to do.
do a reset or self program both the same to be sure with the programing card. that should fix it it seems to turn on and function just not the same so it is on another mode. have to get the card program them the same hope this helps. be sure to take brake off when you use the card
To add .. in my AIOP copter, I some motor pulsing that gyro filters and PID adjustment could not cure so thought it was the ESC .. turns out I had a motor with excessive vibration. Solution was a nylon zip tie on the motor casing and loosening the screws that held the boom in place until it flip flopped - go figure. Replacement motor on its way so all is well.
Tommy.. The original esc is little sluggish.. but after you flashed the esc's they will be very fast in thottle response! It's easy to flash them. I use the Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool(PROD.ID:332000007) and the USBasp AVR Programming Device(PROD.ID:9171000003).
wow it does look easy ok im convinced so ill order and get my stuff together on its way wish me luck. thanks for the insparation and help. i have every type of plane i needed somthing new to challenge me. acually i am also going to do a osprey vertical lift and forward flying plane soon then ill be complete. lol happy flying guys
high with all planes slow is for a very slow start up like slow helli first winds up. on planes you need a fast response and full throtle right now if it is nessesarry never anything less then high. hope that helps you
think of it like a delay . slow means you hit throtle then wait wait wait ok now it starts very slow it does that everytime you shut down like if you glide so then you need gas and you wait wait wait ohh no gas no power in the ground! see what i mean?
I've been flying one of these speed controllers in my Bixler2 with a 2200KV motor. It was working well until a couple of days ago when it failed to run the motor.
The photo shows the layout of the HEXFET power transistors (2 rows of 3 devices) and the two 5V linear regulators.
The problem that is apparent is that the middle HEXFET in the middle row of devices is not making positive contact wi the heatsink. This can be seen by the lack of a matching indentation in the soft thermal contact material.
target=_blank>25A HEXFET cont
ESC has the characteristics to be used on airplanes and not suitable as the site for quadcopter written, I bought them for use on quadcopter and for that I give him 2 stars.
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1 thumbs up!
got 4 from HK ..barely after 4 flight one stop working ..can't be bothered to send back to HK ..
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1 thumbs up!
Bought four for a quadcopter, two are fine, two won't boot up correctly (just 2 beeps continuously), nor will those two allow the end points to be programmed, they also won't connect to the their program card (all LED's dim on card)...
Sent the non-working ones back which cost $17
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1 thumbs up!
Purchase 4 for quad copter. Been using one on Bixler and very happy with the performance.
These ESC's are not compatible with the Free flight FF flight controller board. Will not arm when connected. They work on the bench (3 work, 1 smoked on first use) when connected to receiver directly. After days of trying to get them to work i gave up.
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1 thumbs up!
Well than i have a bad series, orderd 7 and my friend also 7 on arrival 2dead of 7 next on connection 3one smoke my friend same story 3dead well than the good prixes is gone thy are bad esc's do a test cut it open and look to connections of wires you can pull them off like nothing Mac