If you're planning to remove the yellow connector I would recommend desoldering. Remove the shrink wrap from only one of the wires, apply heat with a soldering iron while gently pulling the wire away. Once you've removed one of the wires you need to protect it (electrical tape works well). Now you can remove the other wire. Doing it this way avoids any possibility of the shorting the battery (you never want the exposed battery wires to touch each other). The bonus is that the main battery wires are already tinned (they have solder on them). Just add some solder to the terminals of the new connector. Solder one side at a time and don't forget to put new shrink tube on the wires before you start.
and Yes i tried once charging this one by 5 amps without any noticeable heating.
You can find different views on different RC forums but prevailing opinion is sticking to 1 to 2 Cs (so 1.6 to 3.2 amps in this case)
Yes, that's what I used mine for, but it really depends on the brand of the PEQ box. I bought 2 PEQ15 from different companies and the inside clearance was a bit different. The cheaper knock-off required some dremel work to make room, but in the end they both fitted this battery.
Yes, but this is VERY dependant on the PEQ-box! So far, I've only seen this fit the King Arms PEQ15. It definitely does'nt fit the Vanaras one and many similar ones. I believe it doesn't even fit the VFC one.
You can store then just fine in the PEQ-box, but if you're unsure abotu the safety, put the entire PEQ in a lipo-bag. Always remember to unplug any lipo alarm you might have inside when storing it, or you'll destroy your battery!
1 thumbs up!
The best upgrade to your Thunder Tiger ZK-2/ZT-2 1/18 truck. Fits very well.
This upgrade gives better performance than the stock NiMh. I use it with the stock out of box setup and no modifications, just changed the connector (T-connector).I have not any onboard LiPo voltage detector which flashes me when I am at 3.2 volt per cell. This works Ok!