If you're planning to remove the yellow connector I would recommend desoldering. Remove the shrink wrap from only one of the wires, apply heat with a soldering iron while gently pulling the wire away. Once you've removed one of the wires you need to protect it (electrical tape works well). Now you can remove the other wire. Doing it this way avoids any possibility of the shorting the battery (you never want the exposed battery wires to touch each other). The bonus is that the main battery wires are already tinned (they have solder on them). Just add some solder to the terminals of the new connector. Solder one side at a time and don't forget to put new shrink tube on the wires before you start.
and Yes i tried once charging this one by 5 amps without any noticeable heating.
You can find different views on different RC forums but prevailing opinion is sticking to 1 to 2 Cs (so 1.6 to 3.2 amps in this case)
no me extrañ*a que nos consideren a los españ*oles unos paletos, con preguntas tan pateticas como la tuya Pedro, la intensidad no se mide en A.h sino en Amperios
y una intensidad de 1.6mA tardaria exactamente 1000 horas en cargartela
puesto que 1.6 mA durante 1000 horas , dan una casrga de 1600mAh usease... 1.6Ah
sistema metrico decimal...EGB Españ*oles Grandes Burros "semos"
The best upgrade to your Thunder Tiger ZK-2/ZT-2 1/18 truck. Fits very well.
This upgrade gives better performance than the stock NiMh. I use it with the stock out of box setup and no modifications, just changed the connector (T-connector).I have not any onboard LiPo voltage detector which flashes me when I am at 3.2 volt per cell. This works Ok!