This small and lightweight UBEC features a high efficiency switching mode BEC, providing better heat dissipation when compared to linear voltage regulation. The shielded PCB design and output EMF coil provide a stable, low noise voltage output. The HKU5 also features built-in reverse polarity protection.
This UBEC requires at least 7.6V (7.3 at no load) input voltage. 2s LiPo batteries can be discharged down to 6V (6.4 to be safe), which is way under its minimum supply voltage. It outputs 5.3V at no load, and quickly drops to about 4.5V output voltage at 1A load. This can't be safely used to power flight controllers which require close to 5V supply. It should be safe for most receivers. If using 2s LiPo, set your LiPo alarm no lower then 3.8V per cell to ensure full output voltage.
Halvard. You are correct in your accesmemt. However this UBEC would not be the one to use in a 2s set up. This unit is for 3s and up. General use is to power inline with power battery for wieght savings.
I have had this unit on my eflite p38 for years. I run twin motors and 9 digital metal gear 9g servos withought a hiccup.
I connected it to Orange RX R615 Bind/Batt, used 2s Lipo for power source. ESC Turnigy Trust 45A connected to Throt and 3s Lipo for the main power source. Then ECS starts smorking and UBEC is dead!!
What was the wrong I have done?
it have sense when you take in account output voltage. If both ubecs has aprox same voltage 5.0v then
it's may not be drammatical.. If one has higher voltage (ex 5.2v) the other one may try to decrease it consuming some current to GND... first will try to stab at 5.2 voltage... if first is strong enough then second will burn out trying to consume full current first can provide... In your case both power outputs are connected on RX 5v pins row..... one on bat connector, other on throttle channel connector
Somehow My comments were not preferable to HK. v_max got my comment before erased off. Yes, theoritically make sense. However as I mentioned before, I have same setting on other model and deference is the UBEC, could be RX. That model has no trouble between ESC and UBEC. If I applied v_max's theory, one of the devices should be dead by now but not. Have I got good matched 5V UBEC and ESC coincidently for the other model? Remenber, the UBEC from other shop handled 2 deferent type of ESCs. That's why it doesn't make sense. Should I connect UBEC to some other channel on RX? or just buy UBEC from somewhere else?
The difference may be in switching bec schematic design... one may have both pull up and pull down switching, other may have only pull-up, relaying pull-down function on consumer side. Have you measured output voltage of this BEC with no load?
UBEC form other shop provides 5v, ESC Turnigy Trust provides 5.6v and This UBEC is already dead so, no idea but I assume it was 5v. I checked up my other model setting again and found I connected UBEC from other shop to RUD rather than Batt/Bind. From those facts If I connected this UBEC to the RX other than Batt/Bind, it could be fine. I am not brave enough to connect UBEC from other shop to Batt/Bind to test if it's ok or not.
All RXes has power pins rows (5v and GND) connected in parrallel for all connectors uncluding bat connector if it is separate one... (you can check this with ohmmeter or just looking ar RX pcb you can see that all connectors soldered to two common lines) At least I do not know RX which do not match this rule. This is a common design pattern. No matter where you connect bec on any free channel or on bat connector.
Now, conclusion is I should not connect ESC with BEC and external BEC togerther using 2 batteries. Only strange BEC can handle that situation. In my case, made smoke from ESC but NOT BROKEN and this UBEC had no smoke but DEAD. Thanks v_max for the discussion, I will buy the strange UBEC from other shop for my double batteris safety system.
There is a safe way to use low voltage drop diodes (high current shotky diodes) to connect several escs for power backup... The cons is diode voltage drop (slightly lower voltage on consumer), the props if one esc shorten it's out to ground this wouldn't fry another one and keep consumer powered.
Kontan if you are using a swtching or linier BEC on your ESC than DO NOT use a seperate BEC at the same time. Dissable your ESC' s built in unit than use a stand alone BEC.
I would also concider running your BEC power from the power battery instead of a seperate one for wieght savings. You wont notice any reduction in flight time as servos pull very little amperage if they are free and not binding.
My suggestions are for smaller planes. The big birds should have a seperat power set up for controls. Happy Landings.
Yes, I know and I won't use the ordinary BEC with ordinary ESC as suggested by v_max. My models are Teksumo and Sonic64 and those are not so weight sensitive. I am still using the UBEC from the other shop with ESC and 2 batteries (main and backup) without trouble though. I had some crashes due to ESC Over temp total power cut and Dry soldering on the Main battery. If I had a backup battery on board, Those crashes would not be happened.
Purchased three of these for ignition voltage regulator duty in my large scale gas planes, when paired up with the turnigy 2100 Lipo receiver pack, you can run an engine all day versus the 4 cell NiMH packs. Working great in my planes, the 3A version works great too, but is a little longer and slightly heavier, but cost less. Next order, I will order more for spares for future projects.