Designed specifically for use with the Popular HobbyKing 2.15m Paraglider Parafoil. The HobbyKing Gondola is easy to put together and takes a variety of motor/esc/battery combinations and will surely be a model that will create conversations at your flying field. Tested and developed by one of HobbyKing's very own forum members*!
Using exclusive HobbyKing products such as the NTM-3536 motor and Turnigy 40c Lipo batteries, the HobbyKing Gondola is an affordable yet high quality Paraglider power system that will have you drifting about in the breeze like a pro.
Specs: Height: 455mm Fan Housing Diameter: 320mm Length: 335mm Weight: 711gram Wheel Size: 75mm x 22mm Motor: 35xx Brushless Outrunner (Required) ESC: 40Amp (Required) Battery: 11.1v 3S1P 4000mAh 20C Lipoly (Required) Servo: 2 x Standard Servos (Required)
Required: HobbyKing Paraglider Parafoil 2.15m 35xx Brushless Outrunner (Required) 40Amp (Required) 11.1v 3S1P 4000mAh 20C Lipoly (Required) 2 x Standard Servos (Required) Your own Tx/Rx
Recommended Setup: Turnigy 4000mAh 3s 20c Lipo battery HobbyKing SS Series 35-40amp ESC Tower Pro MG945R Servos (2pc) NTM Series 3536-1400kv Brushless Outrunner XR Type D Beechwood 3-blade Sport Propeller 12x5 Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4Ch Tx & Rx V2
* The BelaTrike was designed and tested by Beladog in the HobbyKing R/C forum.
Im Getting confused. the recomended esc is a 40 amp esc but the recomended motor requires a 60 amp esc. can somebode please tell me whats going on here and what parts to use for this model? sincerely a confused modeller
i have been trying to fly the bella trike for a month now with no luck ! i fly full size para gliders so you would think i would have no problem with the model . i was just about to give up with it when i thought i would try to shorten the A risers thats the lines on the font of the wing . this has fixed the problem it now flys . the lines had been set up wrong . just thought i would put something on here so that others could also try this if they cant get thers to fly
hi wayne . the front lines that come from the front of the wing need to be down at the bottom . prob about 2 inch . then the next one by 1 and a half inch and the 3rd one by 1 inch . the last one you can leave where it is . this is just a rough guide . you should be able to hold the wing above the gondola in a 5 mph wind and it should stay there without you holding it .this means you are close to the right set up . you want the wing to go forward of the gondola this can be done by shortening the a risers on the front of the wing . hope this helps .
Thanks for that, I had one of these and couldnt get it to do more than drag the chute around so I gave up on it and sold it to a friend, I have always regretted not being able to make it fly!
Time to buy another one and with your help this one should fly Thanks
hi Paul, is interesting what you say and wanted to ask you if i am having the same issue that you had, i followed the instructions about the setting up of lines but when try to hand launch the trike even with full power it seems that the parachute won't go up, but in opposite it will hold the gondola down because i can see the gondola tries to go up but the chute just stops it down ending in a stall, any thoughts?
I have had a Bela Trike for a while and have had one good flight. I used the motor that was suggested and it went up in magic smoke on the second flight. It all went down hill after that. I read all the instructions and set it up great and it flew great once. After several crashes, two more different motors, a selection of props and the frame bent out of shape I put it up. I recently bought a lower KV motor like the first one so the prop will turn slower and have more power. I have other Para Gliders so I know how they work and have great success with them. I am hoping this one will turn around. I will give it one more chance or hang it up in the Hanger to look at???
Standard servos are the current suplied servos with a transmiter and reveiver control radio. These servos normaly have plastic gears and analog type and the weight is around 40 to 50 grams and also low price.It operates at 4.8 to 6.0V and has 4.0 to 6.0kg.cm. Celso Costa
I d rather to go with electric since the kit is aluminum I suggest to keep the weight in minimum just above the suggested minimum weight. mounting a nitro engine will significantly incrase the total weight so you will be having bent skids after a light to moderate crash landing
...also the Site suggested a 4.0 Lipo, when I got it, I saw that the cables of the battery are pretty thick (size12) ... is it ok if I plug this into thinner cables? (size10)
(if someone can help me with the mixing at the $pektrum transmitter would be cool)
yes. Thinner wires are traditionally for smaller applications with less amperage and current. Thick wires are bulky, but are well worth it.
You can use any size wire with any other size wire. Just make sure it is thick enough to handle the battery. Also, make sure that they both have the same connector (XT60, EC3, EC5, Deans)
Answered the question myself when I saw the tubing was split lengthwise. Protection for the lines where they hit the shroud. It would be nice if Hobbyking would charge a few cents more and provide instructions with there products.
I used them as protectors for the LiPo.
And when you start the trike by hand you don´t hurt youre self at the sharp edges,
But i din´t get this thing to even fly 15 meters.. so i will use the gondola to a wintersledgeproject.
So good luck !!
NTM Prop Drive 35 Series Accessory Pack 34
ZIPPY Flightmax 4200mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack 558
NTM Prop Drive Series 35-36A 1400Kv / 550W 147
2* BMS-620MG High Torque Servo (Metal Gear) 9.1kg / .15sec / 50g 164
TGS Sport 12x6E Precision propeller 85
TURNIGY TRUST 70A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller 79
I ordered and setup with above components.
my total weight is 2062kg.
I didn't finished to setup.
I think it is too heavy,can I fly it?
or how can I change the combination?
i have built mine with almost the same components except the 3s batery and 10x8 prop mine is around 1600 grams and with 3s it just flies well so with 4s power you will be ok IMHO but try to reduce your prop or you may end up with a burned motor.
I use a 10x8 prop with it with 3s 2200 mah i get around 6 mins of flying time i guess with 12xXX props you will even get less flight time thats why go for 10xXX or even 9xXX props to get a better flight time.
This is a well designed and made kit. It was very easy to assemble, instructions are not needed. Take your time and enjoy the precision. I had no extra hardware so don't lose any. Assemble time for me was 2 hours and I was watching TV while I did it. I used the photo's to assemble it. You will need some needle nose pliers to get in the tight spaces. I'll be flying it this weekend and will follow-up with a flight report. Great Job HobbyKing!! Thanks!
Good product but documentation is missing. Difficult to mount without pictures
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2 thumbs up!
There have been some comments that the new gondola (Beladog Design) does not come with any instructions on how to put it together. Well, it took me only about 8 hours or so for the complete build and I want to share some issues I encountered while doing so, together with more detailed pictures.
Together with the gondola I ordered two servos Blue Bird BMS-630MG which fit perfectly. I already had a brushless outrunner Turnigy C3542-1000 and a 50A BEC.
The pieces all came loose in a cardboard box secured with bubble wrap. Aircraft aluminum stamped and bent pieces have blue protective film on them that I removed first. Next use a suitable file and sandpaper to remove the sharp edges on the stamped pieces( don't skip this step). Bolts nuts and other hardware were included in separate plastic bags.
Start with the U shaped bottom tray and install the landing gear. Strangely, the Allen bolts have a 2mm hex hole and a7/32" stop nut on the other end so you'll need Standard and Metric tools. When installing the front wheel note that a brass bushing goes on the side between wheel and strut as a spacer. Also, you will have to drill out the wheels to allow for the 5/32" diameter axles.
Next install the largest piece of the kit, the slanted tower that holds motor, servos and fan attachments. The assembly on top of that tower is best built separately and then attached to the tower.
The absence of a drawing is negative point , you need the photos on the HK website to get everything at the right place. This Trike is easy to be assembled ,the position of the drilled holes are perfectly and everything fits well together . The Trike is constructed out of good quality Dural aluminium. Use a bit of Loctite one all the nuts en bolds ,the Trike is producing a lot of vibration to all its components . I have mounted the motor on 4 rubber flex mounts and this is having a positive effect on reducing the vibrations and noise of the Trike. Its rock solid and can take a lot of abuse and crash landings . With the HK chute this is a good flying combo. One warning !If you fly to long and end up with a empty battery its flying like a brick ! then its if it falls from the sky,its not a floater !
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All the large frame aluminum parts are still covered with the surface blue protective tape. Very nicely punched as far as the resolution of the structural details that are required to help stiffen the lightweight aluminum. Exactly where required for the landing struts and the main body frame. Nicely engineered and my congratulations on getting it right. Now this is important as well. The edges after they were punched out are not sharp. I don't have any burrs or shards to catch my fingers. The press and punches at this point seem sharp and no stress on the material. I will likely file them slightly only because I like the esthetics of rounded corners.
In the last bag are the 3 nice big tires, smooth rounded not tread type, of decent quality. The 2 velcro slotted straps for the battery etc are Turnigy, so are the blue denim silk-screened and expected good quality. Last is the kit also included the tubing pieces to put on the edges of the fiberglass propeller hoop. I also agree that a good mod is to add a small aluminum or fibre plate like the bottom one to the top of the loop that was recommended by Beladog in the forum.