Camera Type: Colour PAL Signal System: PAL/NTCS Pick Up Device: 1/3 Sony Super HAD CCD Pic Elements: 510(h) x 582(v) Resolution: 420TV Lines Min Illumination: .3 Lux Gain: Auto White Bal. : Auto Lens: 3.6mm + 2.8mm spare Dimensions: 27x25mm Weight: 31g Power: 200mA
I have two of these camera. Both have the same problem with auto adjustment of light. when going to a bright light from low light there is too much interference and the image goes into black and white in the bright light. what could be the reason. I am using fatshark 600mw tx along with the supplied cable.
seems problem is not with camera as it is clear reception with fatshark goggle with built in receiver. I was using a modified receiver with fatshark receiver module for my base edition goggle and the voltage supply to receiver module was not filtered well and hence disturbance. Thankyou all
Hi guy's and the odd girl,
I bought this camera along with the fatshark attitude goggles,
I noticed that the included cable that came with the camera would have connected "according to the stickers" the video to the 5volt on the fat shart tx, So i swapped over the red and white wires but I don't get a signal. did anyone have this issue ? could the sticker be wrong or was the connector put in upside down
if you order one of these please check if your sticker does not line up with connector - you may have received one from the new batch but with old sticker like I did. in the new batch the connector is flipped & if you go by the sticker you will be plugging the 5v into the video in.
I have been conversing with Fatshark on the support forums and apparently I received one with the wrong sticker. I swapped over the cables to match up with the sticker and fryed my camera.
I have uploaded a pic of the new sticker to the files tab. Just check if the connector looks too far to the left it may be sticker-ed up wrong.
Thanks for pointing this out and sorry you fried your camera sorting it. I was also considering swapping the red and white cables over as they didn't agree with the sticker* I'm glad I checked here first. My socket is in the middle at the bottom of the camera back, however the sticker points to a non-existent connector on the bottom right of the camera back. Plugging the connector in the only way it will go worked fine.
So, a bit far for you to come and have a look then, wayneuk appears to have a similar setup, Immersioon/Fatshark vtx hooked up to this camera and in the other plug the 2s battery, the vtx supplies the camera with a regulated 5v supply. If you have a different vtx it may have to be wired another way. This may give a clue, at about the 1:30 mark
lol brilliant i do hope your numbers come up soon iam sure i would get some fantastic video from your location .. would be **** scared of the snakes spiders or other animals trying to eat me whilst i sore the skys like a eagle in my fathsharks
when the light levels drop & your friends are still flying & you carnt see anything in your goggles you will no why you should of spent a bit extra .The cam does work just not very well imho.. but glad your happy with your purchase
Fatsharks (at least the most common models) have VGA resolution (640x480) which is what you get out of the NTSC system, and a bit less of what you get with PAL (576 active lines - the FSs scale it). If you want anything better you'll need HD everything, camera, transmitter, receiver, and screen/goggles
Resolution will not change: it is on your goggles. What this camera gets you is better light handling. I have the Predators and I think resolution is acceptable. Could it be your recording, that loses quality on the conversion?
That is preciseñ*y a way to improve light handling: instead of darkening the entire field, it blacks out the over saturated points (like the sun). But I was going to ask you why don't you like it - is it only this? I have seen one at work, and I was going to order it for me.
Saw them - some nice evening videos. I see you like your Horizon HD camera (2.5x this price), but I do not think your comments on the RCV922 are fair - I have only seen one video where you state it is recorded with the RCV922CAM. Are you sure we are talking about this and not the CCD Killer which comes with the RTF kits? The one I saw had better image than yours.
It is much better than the stock Fatshark 'CCD killer' camera that comes with the goggle sets. The stock camera it is ok to start with but does not have good light coping qualities hence you can risk having dark ground problems whenever you are facing a bright sky.
Are you telling me this worth the price? I have several blackout problems when flying in the sun with original ccd camera that comes with the predator kit. Do you know if this is the best solution? Best regards
How does this camera compare with the basic-plain-no-nothing model from FatShark? (under Cam001 here). The other is a CMOS with good quality for the price, but poor light adjustment (dusk flying is out). Is this any better? Any other 5V recommendation? I like to keep it simple, and powering it up from the FatShark TX is really convenient.
I'm sure I saw 120degrees somewhere, but I can't see it now. That would be about right, and you have two lenses in the package, so one would be a bit less, maybe 90 degrees. Yes there are better cameras, but for straight out of the box plug and play this one is hard to beat.
The picture is a little more "grainy", you have to put up with the auto exposure etc in some circumstances, but for a plug and play camera it is the ducks guts. The Turnigy camera is good, has the ability to be programmed by the user (not always a good thing)when done properly gives a very good picture, but does not come with the cable to do so! (go figure) I'd go with the Fat Shark I have had four and love 'em.
Thanks heppy let *) ,, also why do they call the 600/700 micros ? As they look the same size as other ones from other hobby shops but they don't call them micros ? Any ideas or is it just the way they word it etc..
i will tell you its a good picture & personaly the origional lense is a very wide picture .nice in the fatsharks . but if you have the extra $ get a 550tvl the other lense is more of a fish eye & a little blury around the edge's in my fatsharks
I bought this camera for 2 weeks, now its here. I pluged the camera on a 7,4v Lipo, i had a picture for 2 min. than "No Signal". Later I try it with my 3s Lipo, I get a short signal with no picture, than "No Signal". I dont know what i have to do now. Can someone help me ?
It is a 5v camera, and you have to supply it carefully in order to avoid video lines and interferences : you will have to use a voltage downstepper (same as a Bec voltage supply) AND use toroid/ferrites in order to stop the interferences : so your signal will be stronger with less interferences. Some guys say you should use a separate battery in order to supply your FPV gear because of interferences, but I don't agree with them,because you can kill interferences as I just wrote it and becaus
I would like to know if this camera works with the transmission set from HK (see http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem .asp?idProduct=13437 (2.4GHZ 1000mW Tx/Rx & 1/3-inch CCD Camera PAL)). I saw on other discussions that these cameras dont always integrate with other transmission systems and that there could be loss of color or other. Has anyone yet tested these together yet.
2.Is this camera significantly better that the HK ones? I saw some videos of this and there seems to be a great difference, I find it strange as they both use the same pick up device... any info on that?
main rule aside from V is to keep Pal to Pal and NTSC(never twice same colour) to ntsc so yes this cam would be good upgrade to listed tx
BEST ANSWER CREDIT AWARDED
5v !!!! Use a BEC to power it. The best FPV cam on the Market ! HK has the best price too. Wait fo the NTSC version. A bit on the heavy side, but you can figure a way to remove the metal casing and secure the lans. a must have when FPV flying