NTM Prop Drive motors are rock-solid performance outrunners with tight windings, quality bearings, correctly rated magnets, balanced stator and flux rings, tool-steel shafts plus they are QC checked at 14 points, from material processing all the way through to final dyno test.
Because we design and build these motors completely in-house (from 3D/2D drawing to materials sourcing, machining, balancing, final assembly and dyno) we can completely control production and ensure product consistency from design right through to shipping the product to you. The removal of middle-men has meant we can drive better value to the market and retail these motors at factory(our) prices! All performance figures are real and tested on our own motor dynos.
Our QC engineer checks and balances each motor before shipping to the HobbyKing.com warehouse.
Model: NTM Prop Drive 35-36A 910 Kv: 910rpm/v Turns: 10T Max current: 38A Rated Power: 350w Shaft: 4mm Weight: 117g Bolt holes: 18.9mm & 25mm Bolt thread: M3 ESC: 30A Cell count: 3S Lipoly Suggested Prop: 10x4 Efficiency: 83% A great plane motor up to .30 size.
Hi!I have placed this motor in my p51 650mm but I don't know what prop should I use. It is heavier now on the nose. Basically I crashed with the original motor an I never found it so I am going to use this one now. Any ideas about that? Thank you Jose
I'm using these on my Quadcopter. 5.2 lbs AUW using 30amp ESC's it runs awesome. I use 10x4.7 props and with a 3600mah 3s lipo I'm getting 5 minutes of safe flight time. I have over 200 flights with these and at lease 10 crashes causing broken props. I even take off and land in salt water. I do keep them well oiled and dry them after running if the get wet. I have run these same 4 motors fully submerged in fresh water. ZERO PROBLEMS.
ya maby you can. It would throw off the motor mount. You would have to face motor to left and down a little for motor it spining other direction. Just buy the addapter set. You dont have to worry about bending prop. shaft. V.B. thumbs up
Depends if you want speed or duration, though with this kV you'd want duration, and type of aircraft, it's weight andexpected performance envelope. For a 1Kg model 10x5, 9x6 is good, though I have 12x6 folding on a Bird of Time. 40oz, goes vertical, but I do not have full power for long. Can't remember static current draw but is low to mid 30As.
I'm using NTM Prop Drive 35-36A 910 motors on an octa which I'm building right now. I now need to calculate the right prop size to go with the motors to the most effeciant, so maybe someone out there could give me a hint :-). I have purchased turnigy 30A ESC to go with the motors. Any suggestions ?? I will carry a Lumix GX1 or a small Canon Legria M32 video camera.
30A is good if you are accurate with prop size. It'll consume 38A with maximum allowed propeller, so you should be careful and pick propeller experimentally using the watt meter. Most of 30A ESC survive 40A for a short time (it's named "burst"), usually rated for 10 seconds. It can be a case for quad - it is not common to full throttle for a long time.
So, my conclusion - if you already have 30A ESCs - use them with care. If not - buy 40A.
Would it be smart for hobby king to change the description then? Im planning to experiment with prop size but my ultimate goal is longest flight time at hover. I want to do aerial photography with little movement in a relatively small area. From what I have plugged into calculators for prop size it looks like I will be better off with a large prop for extended hover times. Does this sound right to you guys?
Yes, large propeller with the small pitch. Usually the maximum efficiency is at about the 30-40% of the maximum thrust (don't confuse it to output power chart from description - it is for maximum throttle and different loadings, but we will use maximum size propeller and different throttle).
So take it into consideration - your quad should weight about 1.8-2.4 kg (my guess that maximum thrust is about 1.5kg). My guess that efficiency would be above 7gramms/watt, which for 2.4kg weight is roughly 350watts = 30A for 3S, resulting in 10min flight time with single 5ah 3s.
Motors battery take about 900 grams, so you have 1500 grams free for your frame and camera. You'll need 30C battery minimum to fulfill the current requirement (38*4=152A, 152/5=roughly 30C).
I have the HAL quad frame and no electronics yet. I dont want to waste a lot of money or time experimenting with combinations that wont work. I want to use the NTM 35-36 910kv motors with 10 or 12 inch 2 blade props. My camera is under 130g and the frame is 614g w/o electronics so lets over estimate and say 750g. I'd like to hover at or below 50% throttle and keep the weight to a minimum. I obviously have to add the weight of all the electronics and the gimbal, battery mount, and battery. I do plan to use a 5000mah 45c battery. Do you have suggestions on which esc to use. I plan on the KK2 control board and was also thinking of using the turnigy 3 in 1 ubec alarm to power the reciever and servos on the gimbal. Im totally new to flight rc so I'm not sure if that is a dumb idea. Thanks for the help, if I can pick your brain more that would be awesome.
It seems to me that you're going to be fine:
target weight is 2.4kg - 750g camera frame, -900g motors and battery = 750g left for electronics etc.
10 inch prop is a bit small, but you'll be able to get away with 30A ESCs, which are much cheaper. with 12*4 there's a risk to exceed 30A at full throttle. But if you're not going to full throttle for long (>5sec) I suggest 30A ESCs as well because of their price.
As you are new and don't possibly want to do some ESC reflashing, I suggest PLUSH ESCs. If you completely feel free to spend extra ~30$ for 40A (in comparison to 30A) then it's your choice.
Well there's no real need for separate BEC. Internal BEC of ESCs would work fine - there will be massive overhead in power capacity. Receiver works fine from internal BEC as well. If you need interference-free power for your FPV, then go for a separate battery BEC (if 5V is needed).
Also, as you're new to RC, I suggest to start the build of the small quad as well and use it for the trainings. If you never flew before, you WILL crash, believe me. The smaller quad you'll have, the more crash resistant it will be. Also, anyways, there is a strong point to buy a few sets of propellers (4 is the minimum), at least one replacement motor and ESC, also, may be, the replacement shafts and bearings, as they damage the most in crashes.
Yes i considered a small rtf or bnf quad, i can fly 4 channel fixed pitch single rotor heli just fine but haven't built anything from scratch. I planned on getting spares but did not see bearings on hk. I think I'll try the plush 30a to start out. Right now I'm also trying to decide between the 9X and the 9XR for transmitters but for someone new like me the 9XR and it's lack of coming as a complete system seems like a pain. Once i get good I'll be flying over water and capturing waterski video so hopefully by June I'll be that far. Ok another question, if there are 4 esc s are each of them supplying power to the receiver or just one?
Well, they all would go in parallel, but that doesn't mean, that you get 3*4=12A BEC capacity. Only one regulator would work - the one with the highest voltage (there's always a tolerance on voltage output). This works with linear BEC only, you should never try to parallel switched BECs, as they are somewhat bidirectional and one would supply others with the current, which may exceed reasonable value.
As for 9xr - it's OK, actually - add frsky DJT combo and off you go, there will be no need in any adjustments. You'll be able to add telemetry screen, which is an awesome feature at least to know your signal strength and battery voltage. There are other modules on HK, and most of them are ready to use - insert, pair with receiver and that's it.
as for bearings - yes, you'll have to search for them elsewhere. If you have a spare motor you can delay them - I mean if bearings fail, you install the new motor and order the bearings for the old one.
Since my background is in off road rc racing everything you said about the esc to receiver connection was in a different language. Im a quick learner though. The signal to the esc from the receiver and the power to the receiver come from the same 3 wire plug in a 2 channel rc car. How does the connection work with a multiple esc setup? I assume the connections from the esc go to the kk2 controller and them from the controller to the receiver? I've looked at many pictures but I haven't found one i like that isn't a big jumbled mess. I just got this crazy idea in my head to get into helis and then decided a quad was best suited for what I want to accomplish after buying a few single rotor helis and learning to fly. So far the flying part has been the easiest to learn which surprised me but I do have a simulator and have spent some real air time and simulated air time perfecting my skills. I tried going to my local hobby store for some info and to purchase parts but the guy that owns the place really did not treat me as a customer as soon as I mentioned I ordered anything online. He basically insulted me and then didn't have much to say. Its great that there are people like you who are willing to offer their advice and experience without judging. Thank you for your help!
It's a little disappointing isn't it?
The adapter kit isn't even machined very well, the aluminum adapter tends to gall (pick up aluminum on the nut) if you use a nylon nut. I use a die to clean up the threads a bit (M6X1). Haven't had problems since but it will ruin the threads if you just use it as is.
there's no such thing as largest allowed battery. Assuming that you match the S value (3S, and if you are very careful about prop size - 4S), you can use any capacity that your plane can handle - ESC takes just right amount of energy, required by motor, energy doesn't depend on battery capacity/size.
i have some newbie question about connecting the props with the motors, i have looked here for some info and googled some, but still got confused about how to connect or the difference between the 2 connection, here at pic 1 you will see the motor connected like any other motors from the shaft - but i gota ask, how is this connection right?! the wire will surely get in the way of the moving props!! -
the 1st setup: *******i50.tinypic****/4fzuac.jpg
and the second way, with the accessory pack, but this time the shaft is "dangling" from the end ?! i should make a hole in the frame arm to let it spin right?! or i am getting this wrong?
the 2nd setup: *******oi46.tinypic****/2rcwj9v.jpg
Hi devo. The wires are coming out the side of the motor front plate so the front plate gets attached to the back of the firewall and the shaft comes thru the firewall. The front plate of this motor is fixed while the shaft turns. You can make a firewall from 1/8" hobby plywood just be sure to drill some cooling holes in the ply for the motor
after all, it is not the data i requested. tried the NTM35-ACC but is not what is needed to fit the motor from behind the firewall, as is in the dynamic-s airplane. so it is not the adapter that replaces the stock in the dynamic. can any1 help politely? just the right p/n. no lectures.
I would take the motor with you to your local hardware store and get "M3" screws and check the fit. Be VERY sure the screws are NOT longer than the thickness of the firewall plus the thickness of the motor face plate where the screw goes in. The screw can not come close to the motor windings (the copper wire inside). If the screws are a litte too long use some small washers to effectively shorten them. You will want a 4mm prop adapter. Good Luck!
thank you sir. but local hardware stores in this town don't carry them. i have learned that hk carries some m3 6mm screws that fit so that took care. yes, i tried them so don't rub on the motor.
i wonder who this nice fellow sfactor is? seems to work for hobby king. he provided the answers i requested but with remarks that show the kind of individual he is. hobby king should provide the data i requested without the agravation of having to search for it and to deal with caracters like him.
i hope this ends his unrequested advice of what to do.
have a life! and is credits what he wants? no way.
Really good motor for this price. Bearings needs to be change for better type. For this motor 350W is deadly in one minute, I think that 300W is maximum, and 38A is mistake -> usable limit is 28A.
Measuring table: www.link
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Very good motor, the bell is well balanced and runs smooth, perhaps I feel the motor better refrigerated than SK series.
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You can feel the quality when you hold the NTM motors, I have the 910kv model in my planes and they are very good for the price.You can't find any better in efficiency/price ratio.
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Tested with several ESC. Same result at the end. Do not overdrive it or it will burn. Max speed is much less than expected no load, but near the specs full load. Draw really depends from ESC's but around 40 Amps is about the deal. Lot's of torque as expected. I've loaded a 12X5 prop, and it carried around 2.8KG... Some unexpected thing happens to mine. I'd clued the bearings in a long speed and travel, so i had to replace. when i redo the tests, no load was about the specs and full load higher than expected. So you could replace if you are searching for better performances...
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Few days ago I tested this motor with 9x6 prop, turnigy plush 40A and Rhino 2250mAh 25C 3s1p. Results was ~800g thrust at 18amps. This motor can easily take props like 10x7 or 9x8. See video section for my static testing. This motor will be good for every 1kg plane.