Hello, if I help you, I make use of a TGS Sport 10x5E Precision propeller TRUST 75Amp ESC with a 3S Turnigy Nanotech 25-50 and it does not heat up! Optimum motor, but I advise you to cut 20 mm tip shaft to avoid warping.
This looks more suited to a aeroplane than a quadcopter. Is that correct?
Is there another motor, with similar performance and price, more suited to a slow fly prop on a quadcopter? Or can you put a slow fly prop on this and not go to maximum thrust?
I just dropped this into my HK/ArtTech 33" Pitts. This replaced the Donkey 1100kv, which replaced the original ho hum DT700 motor. Performance on the Donkey was incredible but on this Turnigy L3010C-1300kv (420w) it's unbelievable. Take off is instant and it will keep going straight up until you pull the throttle. Hovers on abut 1/2 throttle but I can't sustain the attitude for more than a few seconds. Only worry is that a 1300 3S 20-30C Zippy gets very hot. This is running an 11x4.7 prop and 50Amp HK ESC. Not even using full power for most of the flight.
Dear Stick and Tissue. You are using a prop that is too big and a battery that is too small. I wonder what your amp draw is. Arthur below gets away with a prop that big because he put these on a quad which does not use full throttle much if at all. Hook your setup to an amp meter and check it before you accidentally wreck it.
Problem solved by going to 1300mAh 3s Nanotech 45/90C. Allows the motor to draw its full 40 amps without anything getting even warm. The lower discharge 20/30C Zippys were intended for the original DT 750 which draws considerably less current. Prop is fine.
T get a nice clean flow around the naked motor I would go to the motor diameter, however this may well reduce the cooling flow to the motor. I would setup on a rig with a carved foam spinner, spin it reasonably slowly say 2000 RPM and blow cigarette over prop see if you can visualize the flow. In face I may do this myself just to see whats happening near the motor. Must start smoking too :)
Should be a powerful delta when youre done. Yes sounds like a good setup but its going to be heavy dude. No problem with the power for sure, but I have this motor and it aint light. But I like big powerful and heavy power systems too. Its just a lot of weight and power for such a small wing.
Hi, morphine. I also think it will be a bit on the heavy side. Currently rethinking the carbon frame. Replaced the main spar with 6mm x 4mm CF tube. Not sure if I will be taping the bottom yet. Planned AUW 850-900g.
Well the weight of the tape will not be an issue because the power will easily overcome it. It will fly perfectly fine with the power setup just keep a sharp eye on the CG. I have a GreatPlanes Slinger with the NTM 35-36 motor, a cheap heavyt Chinese 50A ESC, an APCE 10x6 prop and will either fly on a 2200 3s or a 2200 4s. It has a 47.4 inch wingspan and 459 square inches of wing area and it flies perfectly fine despite the weight. There seems to be two types of builders. Some (like me) build heavy and incorporate crash-proofing and such....others build lightweight to extremes. Either way is right if you are happy with your build. Just have fun with it. Thanks for the credit.
Agree 100%! Funny enough I'm currently working on a GWS A10 twin 55, fitting the airframe and the wing with CF strips trying to shave off 200g, compared to a previous spec which is heavily fortified with 8mm CF tubes and AUW of 900g. Big Indian cast edf's * 4800kv, giving me 1.2kg of thrust. This time trying to beat 62mph.
I did some power tests with this motor, I found a 9x8 master airscrew prop using a 3S 2200 30c Nanotech battery and a hobbyking 40 Amp speed controller to be right in the ballpark, it pulled 40 amps and produced 1.55 KG. of thrust. this is right on the numbers they have it rated for. tried a 10x6 prop, it was to much at 47 Amps.
I see. If you are going to stack them one on top of the other , then you should use a watt meter to be sure you are not going over the recommended wattage. In my opinion your choice should work fine. You are doubling the weight though. If its the diameter you can't have then I would recommend a 9 8 single propeller.
Hi, I'm building one H copter and I thinking about using this motor on it, will this motor does a good job on it?
I'm thinking about using 2x 9.47props each motor instead only one 11,47 prop, qhat do you think about that?
It comes as per the picture with soldered on 4mm Gold Connectors - you will need to buy 4mm female sockets if your ESC is not equipped with this size. Type AM1003A into the quick search window on the left and you find what you need.
Sure I'm sure, absolutely positive - I have 2 of these and have bought the 4mm connectors and they fit perfectly. Looking at the picture you can even see by comparing the size of the shaft which is also 4mm next to the connector that they look about the same diameter. These are relatively powerful motors that draw 40amps with a big prop so I guess they upsized the connectors from 3.5mm to take the load.
Its 87g. Whats not real obvious in the picture is that where you see the motor mounting holes there is a significant gap (distance) to the bell where the weight is. Cameron this is a good motor and it is priced well. As a matter of fact, it is priced great. If you have room in the fuselage to move your battery back far enough to reclaim CG then yes..... you can indeed make it work. I was surprised to learn that the stock motor is 60g. If that is the case, I would go for it.
This is a direct fit replacement motor for the DAT700 used in most of the 800mm Art-Tech planes. Double your power with this motor, as 50A ESC and a 40C 800mah battery. This is a well build motor that has my Art-Tech p51D screaming!
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Power of this motor is fantastic. I used a 50Amp ESC with a 10x5 prop and it gives huge thrust.
Problem with it was the shaft it very brittle and breaks easily. Mine broke without a crash. I can't find any replacement shafts so the motor is a dead loss now.
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Used 11 x 6, 280watts and 1.2kg static thrust. 3S 2200mah 25C Really need to tighten the two grub screw mountings. Managed to reverse the motor so the shaft comes out through the mounting for a FunCub