The Hobbyking SS series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic.
Spec. Weight: 85g Size: 70x50x13mm Cells: 2-7S Li Po Max Current: 190A Burst : 200A No BEC Timing: 1/7/15/30 programmable PWM: 8/16K
Constant current 190A Max 200A <10S
Li-Poly 2-7 cells
Auto shut down when lose signal
Slow down at 3.0V per cell Lipo, Cut-off at 2.9V per cell Lipo 0.8V NiMh
User Programming options.
Brake settimg 4 options:
Direction and Cutoff Type
Timing Mode Setting: 1 / 7 / 15 / 30
PWM setting: 8K/16K
This ESC is OPTO, with no BEC supplying power to your receiver. You will need an extra power source for your receiver. (such as UBEC or Rx battery pack) If you hear the music tone repeat for more than 3 times, you may need to check your power source to the receiver.
Can this be used with the T600/1400 turnigy motor.
What pinion would be best, I fly safe nothing radical.
120 amp delux gets very hot to touch,
6s zippy. 120amp turnigy delux, 17t pinion
Any help reducing the overheating would be great
Inspect each ESC before use!
I just received mine today, and luckily opened it before use. My plan was to replace the heatsink with a bigger fan cooled one for in fuselage cooling. I noticed little care was taken to properly mount the factory heatsink as it was crooked and touching the output wires, luckily the anodizing is not conductive, but light wear can cause a short. Secondly there is a slight cooling issue because the FET boards are layered. Other than that it is a very simple design. target=_blank>HK 200A ESCtarget=_blank>fan heatsink
I just bought one of these from the U.S. warehouse and it's still only got 4 programmable parameters...even though the label on it shows it to have the 5th and 6th (timing and PWM) options. Once it's in programming mode, it cycles through the four options and returns to the first option.
So, either the label is wrong or the documentation is faulty. Either way, I'm done wasting my money on Hobby ESC's!!!
Don't waste your money.
I have seen it being used on a boat, but you will probably need to install some kind of water cooling on it. In a boat you don't have the air flow that you have on a plane, so I would recommend you to replace the original cooling fins with one that is water cooled. Other than that it should work great!
I am using it on a Vanquish hull with a KB45 motor on 5000mA, 45C 6S1P driving a 47mm prop. After a fwe runs on full throttle it comes back barely warm BUT I am using custom-made water-cooling for this ESC. I've also been using this ESC with a Feigao 10L motor in a 35" home-made hull with the same battery pack but a smaller prop, 37mm one, and it didn't even get warm. Hope this helps you.
It is plugged in between your battery and receiver to provide clean power. The and - get hooked to the - of your battery and the other 3 wires plug into your receiver.(or other things needing voltage like lights etc)
Hy! I don't have a video but it is really straight forward! I usually solder the BEC power cables directly on the ESC(together with the cables that go on the batteries). Then you just connect the BEC to any free slot on your Rx(receiver).
As I hope this ESC just got a better firmware. PWM and timing settings are an old school, like carburetors. 2 pole inrunner doing 50k rpm is equivalent to 10 pole outrunner at 10k rpm for the esc. The only thing that matters is how fast poles are switching. ESC always measures that and based on this info it can set up phasing angle (how much before the magnet reaches the pole it should switch to it because you can't reach peak magnetic field instantly) and PWM (output refresh frequency). Doing 30 degree angle causes "misfires" and heating to outrunners at low rpm because it switches too early being designed for high rpm. So, both PWM and angle should be dynamic based on pole switching frequency only. Like valve timing in modern engines. Old firmware just ignored that info and asked us to enter something it knows much better than we do.
Everyone is complaining this is the 4 programmable option version not the 6. I think that is because it is the SS (super simple) version. So if the nonadjustable timing and PWM are set more ideally for a high kv inrunner than for a low kv outrunner, does anyone know if this esc will overheat if used on a 300kv outrunner using a 6s 4000 and 17x12 prop? Motocalc says this setup will run at about 40 amps.
dont bother. at 50a peaks on a 6374 180kv motor the motor was too hot to touch within minutes, startup was beyond **** (lots of stuttering) and sink loss occurred when more than 50A was required. the 4 option version is in a word... ****. My mate has virtually the exact same setup with the 6 option version (esc is otherwise identical) and it works well.
I got mine about 3 weeks ago and same here only 4 options. HK must know about this because in the files section there is a file that lists the 4 options version. I complained to the tech support and they just want me to ship it back for inspection...?? Just send me what I ordered!!!Please
yep. I've now put a complaint in too. I only discovered about the 4 beep ver after buying 4 of them! Now that It comes time to use them, they're useless! worst part is a mate using them for the same application has no troubles... guess what? he has the old 6 beep ver. frustrating... ps. why is there no 'angry' smily!?
If the ESC burns, or fails or what ever, do i still have control of the plane (elevator, ailerons rudder etc.) when using a UBEC? Is it just the motor who fails with the ESC? What happens when only loosing the UBEC? Do i loose all the controls exept for the motor throttle or what? And when using an ESC with bulit-in BEC i belive i loose it all (motor, elevator, ailerons rudder etc.)?
If you have a separate BEC (UBEC/SBEC/LBEC) and the ESC fails - you have a dead stick landing.
If the BEC fails, you have NOTHING - since the radio receiver is NOT getting electricity.
And - if your ESC BEC fail - you also lose everything.
But what he means is if you have an external bec. If you have an external bec wired straight to your battery you will still have servo and reciever functions given that your battery didnt go ***f with the esc failure *)
So when using a UBEC, i do not remove the red wire from this ESC if i'm right? Because this is an OPTO. Then i connect the ubec with the flight battery, and connect the esc with the flight battery. (parallel cable from the battery to the esc and the ubec? The esc lead to channel 3, and the ubec lead to the battery slot (or any spare slot) on the receiver? Please correct me if i'm wrong. Kind of new with using a separate ubec.
Since this ESC does not provide power - you need not cut the voltage lead on the ESC. But I _DO_ suggest using a very short extension with the red led cut - keeps your behaviour consistent, no matter if you have an OPTO or a BEC or whatever else.
Ho ricevuto un settimana fà* il mio ESC ed ha solo 4 bip?, ho comprato questo tipo perchè* nelle caratteristiche ci sono opzioni che a me servono e sono accessibili con la versione 6 bip..... mi rivolgo a HK come risolviamo il problema? Preferirei una risposta.
Is it on Lipo setting?! If so the lipo cell count auto detect may have malfunctioned. Use a secondary low voltage warning system and maybe set the esc to nimh/nicd it will think it has plenty of volatage
Otimo produto recomendo sua compra! Vou colocar em meu ultraleve!
6 comments. Reply..
Is the weight really 85g? Its the same size and weight as the SS 90-100.
13 comments. Reply..
i received mine this week.....and i 've already tried it.... 1st setup was to set the throttle range. i installed it on my trex600....6s 30c at first...the esc was very hot....can't even touch it for 3 sec... then i refer to setup which is the same as the super simple esc...exactly the same.... i set all my setup as below: auto throttle range, soft start, no brake, clockwise, soft cutoff, timing: outrunner motor, pwm: 16khz...
after all the above setting...the esc still goes very hot,
then i change the setting to: timing: default, pwm: 8khz........
then did a few flights a bit of hard3D......
the esc goes warm...which is around 50-60 celcius..... i think this esc cannot use high end setup...... u must set from medium to low setup.....
16 comments. Reply..
ja. 190-200 amperios ni de coa. como mucho 90-100.
puesto en un hk-600 con 6s. y se calienta.
tendria que estar frio como el hielo por el bajo consumo.
vaya fraude... por lo demas pues bueno. el preico insuperable.
4 comments. Reply..
Received the 2 that I ordered and have had time to progam ony one as of this writing.
I was able to get ahold of the programing info for it from a guy on one
of the FE forums.
It is a Suppo 200A ESC. It took me a bit to program it, ran into theat up problems when programming it, BUT not that it is programmed, it is nice and cool.
I do recommend the ESC for any one wanting a semi high amp unit. Just remember to NEVER operate an ESC at its max S cell ratings.
I am going to try and attach the programming file to the files tab. not sure if I can do it.
If it does not work you could always e-mail me and I can forward the instructions to you.
include ESC programming in the subject.