The Famous F4U Corsair in a totally new style! The HobbyKing F4U Corsair is a very neatly designed EPOparkflyer. This Plug-n-Fly R/C plane comes with a brushlessoutrunner, ESC and servos all pre-installed. All you need is a 2S battery and receiver. Build time is around 15 minutes and does not require glue. The tough EPO construction keeps the model bouncing back for more and the strong 2607 outrunner motor provides plenty of power on as little as a 1,000mAh 2S LiPo.
my motor shaft is bent what should i do?
will this motor will work?
i'm use two batteries:
http://www.hobby king.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2 3820
They fittand slide all the way until front too.
The 2000mha is 30g more heavy and due to it's size, even fitted full near the nose, the CG is little more rear than with the 1300mha in the same position.
So perhaps i'm need add some weight in the front with this 2000mha battery.
Anyway i'm made another error i'm thinks, when i'm assembly my plane, i'm see the motor is not perflecly in the axe of the fuselage, so i'm add some stuff in the mount for make it perfectly in the radial axe. But i'm read in another place this can be normal, this little deviation in the right is made for counteract the left torque of the engine...
Someone can confirme this ?
Sorry, i'm write the previous message on me tablet and the automatic correction thinks it was a french text...
So: Yes, i have left the intiale angle for the motor mount. But i'm need to add weight on noze for have a correct CG. Now it fly fine.
Thanks Brent for your supoport.
I'm start to understand what happend: my CG is not equilibrated, i'm not start in front of wing and when i'm set full throttle, the torque made a rotation to the left side of the fuselage, so finaly the wind make the reste...
SO i'm checking the position of my lipo for the two model (1300 et 2000mha), next time i'm take off in front of the wind and i'm push the throttle more slowly...
And i'm by 10 blades in case of...
I have my CG at the first panel line and just slightly nose heavy, i would stick to the recommended 1000mah 2s battery as it fit perfectly and slide it all the way to the front. i still had to add some nose weight to balance it out where i wanted it this planes is still quite fast and does have a high amount of torque roll it can be a real hand full to fly, you would be better off with a high wing plane to begin with
So finaly i'm understand, CG is for Center of Gravity.
I'm checked it, and my batterie is not enought foward (for 50mm CG from front of wing). When i'm push my 1300mha battery, CG is ok, for the 2000mha one, tail is little too heavy, but little only.
So i'm din't uderstand why the nose hit the ground when i'm try to take off.
I'm buy tis plane, and it' smys first plane, i'm totaly beginer at RC plane/
So i'm try fly yesterday, and when i'm try take off* the nose down to ground and i'm broke the blade, not a big deal.
So i'm using 2000mah battery, and i'm suppose it's made the nose of this plane too heavy, i'm push it just enought for be able to put the canopy in place.
I'm read in others message something about CG 62 ou 50mn, but i'm don't known what CG mean.
I'm suppose i'm can fix my plane by add weight at tail ?
I'm really puzzled at what might be wrong with mine?
Maidened mine today in almost zero wind. Used a 2s 1000 lipo and set up a tad nose heavy of the recommended CG of 62mm, in flight it would stall as if tail heavy, so I tho moved the batt forward, then it flew a bit faster but well.
But then it dived and couldn't pull up out of it, hit hard nose first, bent shaft, and bit and pieces. My goodness this bird is really tough! Might try the 50 mm CG someone here said it really needs, but the not pulling out of the dive worries me..
So, I'm not sure what's happening..
-Could the CG be close to correct now but lack of elevator travel to be effective?
Or maybe it was too forwrd and that's why I could get it out of the dive?
I had set around 12mm of elevator throw.
Anyone have had similar experiences?
Ok well mine turned up today, arrived with warped vertical stabilizer and it looks as though the horizontal one is warped to... should the horizontal stabilizer be completly flat? mine almost looks like a factory curve pointing down at each end..
Yes, get a different plane. :) In reality, Warbirds were never meant to glide well. This thing behaves sort of like the real thing, so I don't think you will be able to make it glide better, unless you find a way to reduce its weight by 50% or do something to enlarge the wings, which will totally ruin the plane's looks and is not guaranteed to work.
If you upgrade the ESC, for instance to an 18amp Plush, you would be able to run this on a 3S li-po. I would advise you to get a watt meter and measure the max amp draw of the current configuration at WOT on a 2S. Then check motor temp, etc. If it is cold you should be OK running it on a 3S with a new ESC. I would also get some slightly smaller spare props.
Yes this plane will fly about 5-7 minutes if you keep it about 1/2 throttle and dont push the battery al the way to the front of the nose or it will be nose heavy I found this out the hard way but the plane flys great.
i want to buy my first plane, did you know if this is a good purchase? Is it possible to fly more slower to a better control? Or i will crash this plane ate the first flight? Thanks .
I have Turnigy 9X V2, but can use it?
I've suggest a high-wing plane as your first model. From hobbyking, you could be looking at the bixler-2. Low wing planes are a little more difficult to handle. the "V" shape of the wing on the bixler means it's a little more forgiving and more prone to returning to normal attitude if you get into trouble.
sorry not bec - esc had on one side 3 black connectors for plug the cables(red,yellow,white)from the brushless, if you download the manual from the esc (****ztwoem****)there you have 3 colors from the esc
It has good access to the bell housing of the motor, but how do you get at the bolts on the motor mount to remove it as there is no room between the motor and the foam that goes around the motor where the cowl slides onto? What am I missing here?
There is two little holes (one on each side of the fuse) where you can get a small screwdriver into the holes and undo the screws that hold the motor to the housing. The motor comes right out then. These holes are past the cowling on the fuselage.
Nick, I hope you were able to see my previous message. Hobbyking banned the name of the website. The don't understand why they did it because they don't carry any spare parts(fuse, wings..). I was just trying to help.
Thank you very much one more time.I saw the site and I have already communicate with them.I ll buy some things (cowls and spare parts)from them.In any case its very bad that HK doesn't have spare parts for all models.Thank you again.
I have this plane from an other shop, its flight is just awesome, very smooth, as slow as you wish. Landing are verrryyyy easy with the flexible landing gear. I advise you to buy this, almost for its price, bought it in france 280$ RTF! Mine is from EPO, this one i can't see.
J'ai achet cet avion en france et c'est une tuerie, trs realiste, vol trs stable, et lent souhait. Les atterissage sont un bonheur, je ne fais que a. Son prix est top
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Received the F4U this week. Overall seems like a decent package. It is the FMS mini series and includes the FMS manual.
I did have a cracked and warped vertical stabilizer and tail wheel that seems to be a result of how it was packaged. I have contacted HK on this and they are reviewing it for a claim (whatever that will mean).
The paint on the fuselage is much lighter and of lower quality than on the wing, seems like it didn't get enough paint to fully cover and seal EPO like on wing and appears a different shade of blue.
The kit can easily be converted to add rudder control. It even comes with the control rod and horn. Just need to add a servo and cut the rudder free. The rudder servo slot has been filled with a foam insert which can easily be cut out.
ESC is labeled as 20A.
Hoping to get is assembled and a test flight in next week or two weather depending.
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Model arrived well-packed, no damage. It is a VERY tough
plane as I wrecked it twice hard...only busted the prop.
I put on an 8x4 2 blade prop, used a 1300 mAh 7.4 Volt
battery, and put in LOTS of expo...
Tamed it right down!...Flies great. I added a
rudder/steerable tail wheel servo in the blanked spot, but
it added a LOT of tail weight. I hogged out foam in the
VERY forward area of the battery compartment. I did it
from the front after taking off the cowl piece. When I did
that, I uncovered a large round steel weight, shaped like
6-7 U.S. Quarters, buried within the nose where the cowl
butts the fuze, on the top, right hand side. Good advice
would be to use a 1300 mAh battery and maybe open
up the plane completely, remove the weight and find a
way to get the battery, ESC as far forward as possible.
Even into the cowl somehow.
First of All , calling it EPO is a big lie. The foam quality is bad not related to EPO by any means. Packing was horrible , very fragile foam box which I received broken in some part. The small rear wheel is missing and its place in the fuselage seems to be broken. I have not tried to fly it yet. I just hope the motor and ESC are not of the same quality .
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I flew this plane first flight this morning and what a great flyer. Did not even have to adjust the trim tabs when flying at just below half throttle. I used the recommended 2S 1000 battery and added some lead to move CG forward a bit. I did replace the motor leads on the ESC to a heavier gauge wire and with the HK standard connectors. My tail wheel was broken off in shipping but easy to reattach. Wish the manufacturer would consider larger wheels on the landing gear. I removed the gear for my first flight and just did a belly landing in the snow. Easy but on a grass soccer field the little wheels will catch and the plane will most likely nose up etc. Great flyer and easy size to transport. Plenty of power with stock setup.