The Multi-Remote Switch is essential for all R/C models, car/boat/heli or plane. Dont worry if you dont have a professional transmitter to control your FAA lighting or bomb drop system, with the Multi-Remote system you can control 7 Remote switches at the same time, plus its very easy to use. You just need 1 spare channel on your receiver and the system controls 9 different outputs.
Great for controlling LED lighting, rocket launches, bomb drops or other on/off circuits.
tried it but led lights are fluctuating.. channel 1 will be on and then channel 2 will also be on but very low light only eventhough it should be off.. once all channel is on the light will dim.. anyone knows the reason?.. also it turns very hot.. im using a 7.2nimh battery for power.
ive done that already chris.. but the problem is all channel turns on same time.. and when all channels are on (you can see that by the light indicator) the lights all go dim. made sure battery is all charge but still having the same issue.. do you i need to try to put 3S on it?.. the LED's might burn..
Im not sure about your but theres a particular setting which itll on in sequence.depending on ur leds u should use a higher volts battery.make sure its all the same rating. The heat from the system is normal. Your suposed to use the sixth or fifth channel.
hi all, I have this device, but I see you have a little problem common.
Diodes (LED) there are several different voltages according to the light intensity.
can be in ranges from 1.5 v to 4v. This is an important fact to keep in mind, the most common LED work in a mid range 3v with low consumption, so the battery should there using assert.
If they are high intensity LED calculate fuel ought to know if that battery has the ability to feed them.
Instead of ni-xx batteries can be used lipo and life with greater capacity and discharge amps, in smaller size and weight.
A Lipo 2s (7,4 v) always going to have a performance far superior to any battery ni-xx.
can I use 3cell Battery 11.1 v with this beside connecting it to Rx so one side connected to rx and the other side connected to battery and led lights can I also use one of its ch for retractable landing gear thanks
also if your load is not that big ( ie.. leds,fan) you can jump the jst connector to the servo connector by soldering it on the board. this way you only need to connect to your receiver and your leds,fan will get power from the reciever.
FYI- the description that says 6-12 volts is for the load side ( jst ) connector. The servo lead that goes into the RX powers the module. I could not calibrate the unit with a 6.6 life pack running the receiver. It powered on and all the leds flashed but calibration was impossible. installing a fully charged NIZN 3 cell pack worked like a charm. I'm running this unit on my 1/10 SCT night body. It powers 4 cluster LEDs,2 3watt leds and 12 10,000leds. All from HK. It looks amazing when you cycle through the on/off sequence,
Cannot get unit to calibrate.
Followed all instructions to the letter. Switch is on "0".
All lights blink on and off indicating that it is in calibration mode. I set up the transmitter so that the switch controlling the unit is set for channel 8. I flick switch on and off many times but the lights don't go off indicating successful calibration. I tested to see if that channel and switch are working correctly by connecting a servo to it and they both work correctly. I tried with another receiver and all lights blink indicating calibration mode but I lights will not turn off indicating unit is calibrated. What can I do? Do I have a bad unit? I appreciate your help.
No the unit is ok. Setup a channel to the switch. both powered on and click fast 2-3 times the switch on the channel that is setup. Do it on channel 5 where mostly the gears are on to play with the switch. After they turn of select a channel on the switch from 1 to 9 to select the mode. Best answer is welcomed if you manage to do it :) hope i helped you.
Nik, did you have to do anything special to get this to work? I tried launching a missile from my plane today and it wouldn't burn the ignitor. I have an LED I have been using for testing and it lit the LED fine but when I tried to launch the rocket it did not burn the igniter. I was using mode 1 (momentary pulse) and a 3s battery to power the switch side. It looks like the channels that I tried to use the igniter on are dead, the LED won't light on those channels anymore. Is 3s too much for this switch?
i have a problem. switch worked perfect, but then after switching to other rx, i didn't calibrate it like i should and it was conected to external power during calibration. but now, i can calibrate it like it says in manuals but, after calibrating and conecting to external power, my leds don't turn on. i try several diferent procedures but i think the switch is faulty. or i can do something?
When checking the sequence,all light came out as it should. Calibration is done by the manuals,with that different, that when i want to use switch for my leds,they don't came on. I try different rx and port and it is the same.
sorry for double post
If my leds are 5V max, can i use this switch with a 1s battery or even use a 2-3s and get a 5v output? if not what would suggest me to use for triggering my leds on and off? thanks
If you use it with a 1S you will get 3.8 volts out. nit then you said "or even use a 2-3s and get a 5v output?" The answer is no. Like Nikolasos said it is just a switch so if you us a 2S you will get 7.4 volts out and if you us a 3S you will get 11.1 volts out to your LEDs. I don't think it has a voltage regulator in it to keep the output at 5Volts no mater what voltage you switch through it. If it regulates the output at 5 volts then I will stand corrected. I only have 88 points so some will ream me for answering anyway. The points police are always watching (and that makes me think of water)
if you want two different output voltages you will need to use a reg on the lower output wanted.
So John is correct there is no built in reg so you will need to add one for your application if you want to use a higher voltage input vs what you want your output to be.
The points mean nothing. Here we answer to help i think. The best answer credit is just showing some respect when someone helps you. Nothing more nothing less. John deserved the points because he made you understand. Thats the spirit happy to help :)
Thanks Nikolas. I appreciate that. There is one guy that goes around here all hi and mighty be littling people about there points and answering questions and I have just about had it with his childishness. I agree this is about helping and no one knows it all so this discussion section is great. But the guy who I call waterboy sometimes make me think what is the point of being here but you helped me with what you said and I thank you.
I bought 2 of these to use for lights on my quad. They both fail to calibrate, with the same result. Upon powering the reciever on, I get 2 flashes of all 7 leds, then a sequence of lights 1-7 that goes 2 times. One that is over the unit shuts off and nothing else happens. The units are both set to number "0" and power is from my rx. Anyone know what could be wrong?
put it on 0 and then power it up from the rx only. It will flash continuasly play with the switch that you have it on the channel. when the lights turn off its binded. Turn it off, pick a programm 6 to 9 and then power it on. It will flash in the sequence that it will work 2 times. Fast click its switch to arm each channel. Hope that helps you
I guess I don't quite understand this item. I just want to turn something on and then off with a switch on the transmitter. If this cycles through each of the nine outputs, then do I need to switch it on and off nine times to get to the output with my LEDs? Like I said, I just don't quite get it. The description is lacking.
Yes. 7 Swithes doing excactly what you described. 7 in a row ON 7 in a row OFF. You have nine times in your tx to turn every line on and nine to turn them off. There are 4 stages to change the row of the lines and 5 to ignite a spark and 1 binding stage. So you have to turn all off and turn all ON to work. Thats the way
Im pretty sure the first few settings on it are meant for igniting small rocket motors. It sends a burst of electrical current to the positive/negative connection allowing for your rocket to ignite and take off.
up to 700mA or 500mA total i believe or 120mA on each port. There are 5 ignition states and 4 programms with constant power suply. Model rocket ignition needs as little as 50 milliamps to as much as 23 amps. Estes 6 Volts. 12 Volts.- 68 mA. 104 mA. I thing thats more than enough. Hope that helps
Hey can you repeat your comment Nikolaos from above:
"From the receiver you get up to 6.5V not more. The Other side for the lights as much tou put you get. 12V is the limit up" so I can understand it. It makes no sense to me. Thanks.
Using this switch to control 4 sets of lights and two fans on a RC truck, with a custom built Rx. There is no way it is getting more than 6.5v threw the Rx and I have gone threw 3 of these switches. Any body got any ideas why this is happening.
Oh powering the switch with a 9v battery.
Sorry I did not make that very clear in my question and noticed after the post and did not see a way of editing my question. Yes I am powering the fans and lights with a 9v battery, and the switch is powered by the Rx.