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Nylon T-connectors. Pack includes 10 male and 10 female connectors.
ALERT! These connectors are made from Nylon, making them very tough and difficult to melt, even with the worst of soldering skills. These are for those customers still stuck with the old t-connector. We suggest all customers to upgrade to the new XT-60 connector where possible as that is the connector attached to nearly all our batteries, esc, charger and models.
I like to plug a male and female connector together before I start. It doesn't matter which one you plan to use, both will have their tabs exposed. This ensures that the interior connectors stay in place and helps with heat distribution. Before soldering you want to put shrink tube over the wires. Then add some solder to the tabs on the connector and tin the tips of the wires (tinning wire is done by heating it enough to draw in some solder). Now you just need to heat the tab and the wire so they'll melt together. Hold them still for a few seconds until they set. Finally, push the shrink tube up over the tabs and apply heat. Tip: The solder should melt pretty quickly. It's usually bad if you're holding the iron to the tabs for a long time. If that's happening, check that your soldering tip is properly tinned and check that you're iron is hot enough (I think a 60W iron is a great tool to have)
That just happened to me on a 3S 2200.. the spring bent over and touched the other terminal. It turned into a mini sun for a couple of seconds and vaporized the tab. Scary stuff.
you can adjust the tension by pull or pushing on the plugs tensioners (the little loop on connection pad). the higher you pull it up the more tighter it will get and the mor you push it down the looser it will get. hope this helped
A trick I use for deans plugs is using pliers to crush the little loop part of the connector. It flattens the loop down so it is slightly easier to unplug and plug in. Hope this helps!
if it is hard it is normal, it will take free after several uses
especially not of a clip you will regreter when there is a bad contact and will break your rc
google translate
Grasp both ends of the plugs with both hands, put your thumbs together and push your thumbs so it comes apart, that way when it lets lose, your hands don't fly apart and you don't rip anything off of the model. If your model is not exposed to dirt put a little bit of dielectric grease they use on spark plugs of cars, but don't do this if your model is exposed to sand and dirt, it will stick to it, but it makes pulling them apart a lot easier, plus prevents corrosion.
Sometimes after I shrink wrap the Wires I will put a larger piece of shrink wrap on the plug and wires. It takes the stress off the wires when pulling the plugs apart.
Hello, when balance, I go before a drop of solder on the connector (which is facing up) and then there knoll above the wire making them melt. Then slowly I add a few more drops of lead and finally I close everything with the shrink. You then start with the other connector.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to depress the arched spring on the male side of your connectors. I find this makes it much easier to disconnect and reconnect my batteries.
Do not depress anything. You will cause the deterioration of the contact resistance and one day you can lose your model. T-connectors have to be very tight.
Hey Charles i know what u mean by them being tight, i saw in a magazine that if your careful and straight enough drill a hole in the centre of the male and one in the centre of the female connector, and u can use circlip pliers to open them, so your hole size in the plugs will depend on diameter of your pliers. Also found this out a month ago when u solder the plugs whether it male or female connect them both together makes them alot easy to connect and disconnect, but be cautious of the other end, with the exposed lugs, i normally heatshrink or tape up.
i recently bought 20 pairs of these and the quality seems very poor i have bought these before and they was great didn't melt and a tight fit and i was soldering some quite thick gauge wire and they held up fine but when i purchased some more .literally just tinning the connector i must of touched the connector for 2 maybe 3 seconds and the post slid out not all the way because i stopped i repeated this with 5 connectors just because i thought maybe it was a dodgy one but no all did the same the female connectors seem ok but the males are pathetic.Any one else bought these recently?
I found out that when I was soldering thicker wire especially aluminium wire you may need to go up from 20 watt to a 30 Watt Iron. This heats the wire faster. I use the "T" connectors all of the time and always tin the wire and the plug separately before I join them this reduces cold solder joints.
I am using these for LED lights for a gokart and hooking them up to my rc batteries. Are there better Connectors for this purpose. I want to be able run my led lights and my rc cars with the same batteries.
Hi, this sounds å* bit big to have on leds, i would use å* jst-plug on it. But on a car with high voltage, id used either the t-connector, or xt 60.
But if its 2-3 cells on your cars, its fine to use jst on them too.
Good luck, hope this helps:-)
I happend to find the EC3 connectors a bit easier to solder, they are also some what insulated, unlike the deans connectors, i once had a crash that disconnected the battery and bent the and - leads together resulting in a lipo fire.
There seems to be a quality issue with these now. The last 2 batches I bought wont fit togther correctly. Terrible quality & will have to be thrown out & replaced.
Ive previously had no issues with them & my old ones still work fine.
If they wont fit together as in a very tight fit. you could lubricate them with some electritians silicone that would help. I would also recommend using the EC3 or EC5 connectors. Much more user friendly in my opinion!
All the ones I've used are a very tight fit. I use them on my multirotors to connect my ESCs into a spider I've made and the battery connections I use are deans.
Mine fit very well together. I suggest you as mentioned before you should try to lubricate them. or you could send them back. hobbyking is good at refunds.
Another great trick along the lube sides is some carbon spray. you can normally find this at your local hobby shop specifically lubricating connectors. I like this spray over a silicone cleaner or lubricate as carbon is extremely conductive so your not "insulating" the heads in silicone, rather enhancing the conductivity while still lubricating.
The fitting of this product was so bad that I almost broke my model because of the force I had to use just to taking it off. Buy the XT60 plugs, they are fare much better and easier to click on and off.
Oil & pliers are not needed unless the Product is FAULTY.
I bought a different brand of Deans type & have no issues with them.
These were once a great product, now buy at your own risk. Just wanted to let others know,it isnt really a question asking for help. Faulty product goes in the bin
Can't believe what I'm reading! I've purchased a few packs of these over the years and have had consistent, perfect fitting results. It was usually the deans that would not fit together well, or all the way.
These aren't as easy to solder as other plugs, like XT-60s :/. They DO melt if you leave the iron on, for, frankly, not too long. The hard part is, its just tabs you solder to, contrary to others where you have a tube to put the wire in. I recomment you get a soldering jig if you plan of keeping these. If not, I recommend XT-60s all the way, for their ease.
Super easy to solder, a trick I use is to put the opposite plug into the plug you as soldering so that even if you do keep the iron on a long time, the other plug holds the leads in place so that they maintain a great connection.
These are very easy to solder, even for me and my very limited soldering skills. I have never managed to melt one in the slightest. I recommend you use a jig to hold them though as it can get fiddley.
Have allways used T-connectors and hate to solder them. Rubb them with a file before soldering, then they are easier to get a grip on. Use another plug to hold them in place to
T-connectors are easy to solder if you use very thin gauge solder. I use the thinnest stuff you can get from RadioShack with a rosin core. I'm no pro with the soldering iron, and my solders still come out strong and clean with these plugs.
Yes, the T-Connectors are very easy to solder. You can use a 40W solder. The important thing is, before you solder make sure you have a clean solder bit. Try to brush the solder tip from black residue.
Mate them with another connector before you solder (i.e. if you're soldering wires to a female half, plug a spare male half into it before you start to solder), as the other connector will help to act as a heat sink and also make it bigger and easier to handle.
Very easy. I actually tried to melt one by applying heat to the place where you attach the battery's wire* it took a more then a minute to get it so that the metal could move even a bit.
I like the answer on top here..
I've melted a few of these allready! Use thin soldering wire, plug the male or female on the other end first, and a clean soldertip. I use a file on mine, just s****e the black residue of.
And to get the heat going instantly, melt a tiny bit of solderwire on the solderiron. when it contacts the brass, it leads heat more effectivly..
Use a soldering iron that gets the T connector hot fast. Get it hot, get the solder on, then cool it off (blow on it) so you dont heat soak the whole connector and melt it.
yes, put the solder on the connector, all around it, coat it,let it cool, then put some on the wire, let it cool, put them together and heat it, super easy.
Very easy. Use soldering skills 101, prime both the head and your wire with solder first. The proper way to solder the dean tip is to heat the lead from the back or bottom, get the lead nice and hot and touch your solder to the opposite side your iron is on. It will melt into a nice ***l, do the same thing with your stripped wire. So now your primed, put your iron back on the back side of the deans lead, and touch your wire to a exposed spot on your iron. once both solders start to melt, pu
I give the connector a little scuff with the dremel tool first, and "tin" the connector. I then tin the wire, be patient and generous with the solder. With the wire freshly tinned, I use a pair of hemostats to clamp the wire to the connector, and apply heat, from the wire side. When the solder flows, when touched on the metal part of the connector, the joint is soldered. Allow a few seconds cooling time, before removing the hemostats. Helps that I am using a 260 watt gun, and Kester solder.
I tint both the wire and the connector. If you do it correctly you will not have to add any additional solder. If you plan to do a bit of soldering and plan soldering 10 gauge wire I suggest you get a soldering station. I have my set to 900 degrees F. Solders my connectors really fast.
Hemostats make soldering the wires on a breeze. Can easily solder up to 10 gauge wires with a 20 watt iron. Always do one wire at a time and heat-shrink the solder joint immediately before soldering on the other lead, to prevent accidental shorting and damage of the battery.
yes they do, as these where designed based of them. I do find these better on the grip side, due to the added ribs on the sides. These are branded "XT" for "HexTronik". Good luck!.
yup sure do match dean plugs. I like these better because one time I had to finish a race in the rain and when I went to disconnect the battery those little lines on the side helped pull the battery apart.
yes they do, and they are alot better because of the ridges, gives alot better grab so you can pull them apart eaiser w/o pulling on wires from Motor/Esc. if your not good at soldering as Vulture 231 said, they can with stand alot of heat from the iron. There awesome connectors!
the problem is that there is no option to clear the "hobbyking asnwers" list, the only way to clear them out is to answer the questions, i've brought this to attention on the forum but no one cares, but its obviously an issue.
These are excellent connectors. I have soldered well over 100 of these for myself and my friends (we have a large airsoft organization). I prefer them to real Dean's.
Yes these do match to the actually deans connectors, I was worried about the same thing but when I tried them the worked perfectly like they were meant to
WARNING These plugs are good but there is one thing you need to be very careful of . Sometimes the contact it not solid and can cut out intermittently This can be a serious problem if you run parallel packs because then the one takes all the load that was superposed to be shared and will fry your battery. To fix this just pinch or bend the metal contact inside tighter with pliers and to test for this, plug in with the male connector and a tester and wiggle it firmly If the reading cuts out you know it needs to be tighter Also be careful when plugging in the pressure spring on the make can bend over the wrong way and short it out
These are much better than deans. The grips on the sides and the larger size makes everything easier. Plus these always fit together perfectly smooth, every time.
these are what i use on everything rcs real cars dirtbiks atvs just about any place i can i have lernt how not to have to use shrink rap on them when using silacone wire slide the silacone down and trim a bit of wire of use any thing to hold silacone solder and slid back over ther just so many ways,hobby king you want to sell more of the xt60s price them the same as the xts,and wise up a bit go with what most are using
So if you (Hobby King) suggest we upgrade to Xt-60 how about you give away some of the old T plugs better still how about some freebie of the XT-60. Get us hooked on the XT-60 and we will have to buy it!!!!!!!
They already have you hooked because they come on every battery above 1300mAh :/...
XT-60s are very expensive when you compare them to T-Plugs, but I do realize the whole setup is easier to solder and safer.
I will stay with Deans until there are not offered anymore! and become as hard to find as gold. Bottom Line! They are on All my Batteries, All my chargers/Charge leads/ESC's Cars, trucks, planes, heli's, boats. =)
They need to make a Deans or T syle plug Heck even XT-60 style plug that can handle huge amps like a constant 200 or 300. I hate those stupid bullet style plugs on the big batteries like 5000mah. Give me one big plug I can pull apart like these but 3 times the beef!
they are included with almost everything they sell, I still prefer the deans type plug and will continue to use them, both area great plug, I hope hobbyking continues to cary these.
"We suggest all customers to upgrade to the new XT-60 connector where possible as that is the connector attached to nearly all our batteries, esc, charger and models."
I suggest HK stock some of the XT-60 connectors in USA warehouse so as to satisfy those with battery purchase aspirations.
It s a good suggestion, however many aircraft sold by HK have these connectors installed in the aircraft which necessetates changing the plug either in the aircraft or battery, in doing so does one void any warranty?
In my opinion stick to the connector that you'r flying buddies are using.Me and my buddies all use deans and when one of us needs a battery or esc we can all share.When i buy a battery i just cut the XT and solder a deans. It takes all but 2 min.I don't understand all the hipe about xt-60.It's just some bullet connectors in a plastic case.Make a plastic box OMG LOOK AT OUR KNEW CONNECTOR THATS 1000 times better than the one without the plastic.
yes these are like deans connectors but the springy effect that keeps the connected wears out over time but they are cheaper and take about 2 min to solder on another pair
bryan that is all GOOD but Hobby King is still selling Models (Models with Hobby King Brand on them) with T plugs fitted. So I am happy to change but when will Hobby King change there stock??
To be honest, they arent as straight forward as other types, but I cant say its hard. Make sure you solder the positive lead on the outer side so its far from the other lead, and soldering consists of simply touching the metal tab with the iron and touching it with solder wich should flow really easy. I use a 30watt iron with 60/40 solder. Good luck!
Bullet connectors are easier to soldier. People saying "its easy" appearantly have all the equipment, stands and experience. I am new in such things so I find a little bit challenging to solder these.. Last time I placed iron for too long - plastic inside connector melted and it wont connect properly with male end..
*Kardan re the melted connector, I had that problem once myself. Ever since then when soldering a femal T-Connector I always plug a male connector into it while I'm soldering which makes sure it always keeps shape. Also good to wrap some insulation tape around the end male terminals so they don't short out on the vice holder.
I have a crocodile clip that I use as a third hand to hold the connector or wire.
First tint the connector (use the outside of the connector) and the wire beforehand. This means you put down a layer of solder on the connector and wire before you solder them together.
By using the clamp / crocodile clamp /vice to hold the connector, put the wire on the part that you want to solder, touch the wire or both parts with the soldering iron-point if possible and add some soldering wire on it. Beware,
Soldering isnt difficult once you try it a few times. Just go on YouTube and look up how to solder. Make sure you buy some shrink wrap for these connectors.
As Shimmer said, plug the connector into a completed connection, but only part way, so the heat can help dissipate through the other connector. Part way connecting it will help ensure the heat does not transfer TOO much out of the side you are soldering, but help remove some of the excess.
Also, try using a hotter soldering iron, and lead based solder (melts at a lower temp). Hotter iron means you can get the metal hot faster, and keep from transferring that heat to the plastic as much. Good
they arent too bad, however if you get them too hot, the nylon does melt and the metal plug go out of wack and the connector is then garbage. i use vise grips to hold them lightly, and put some solder on the tips of the connector, some on the wire, then push the wire on the connector, having the solder iron agaisnt the wire
they are very easy to solder, but like anything relating to soldering, you can burn it if you are not very good at it, practice helps, also you can use a hemostat to absorb the heat.
there really easy if u have a holder. such as the aligator clip stand. Or prop something heavy on top to hold them still, if you hold them in your hand while soldering u will regret it. Make the solder as flat as possible so the heat shrink covers good.
They are MORE conductive than regular Dean's. Solder flows much faster and easier onto these connector's tabs than into real Dean's. I can solder most anything, but I prefer these to real Dean's. They are definetly easier to solder than real Deans for a novice to soldering.
Use a hot (at least 800 degrees) iron (not gun) with a small chisel tip. Make sure the tip has no slag and that you are using very fine gauge solder.
just use sand paper to s****e the part of the connector that will be soldered with the wire.
I use a 50W soldering iron and standard stain - never had a problem
Regards
Sand paper! Then put some heat to the connector, and put some solder on the conector while the iron is still on the conector. Let the solder flow on the connector.
I had no trouble. Lightly sand the metal first and make sure you use flux on both the wire and the metal tab, or it will be more difficult to get the solder to stick.
I didn't sand anything and It worked very well for me. I used a 30w iron and 60pcntTIN 40pcntZINC rosin core solder. I just touched the legs with the soldering iron, and then touched it with the solder and it flowed pretty well on to it.
You need to have better solder, that is the problem. also try to use flux that will for sure help. you want an acid resin core solder that is very fine for these kinds of application also make sure you have lots of heat
hold the soldering iron on longer til it gets hot enough. I find it first melts to the wires you are trying to attach and if you hold it on a little bit longer it will ***l and bond onto the metal you are connecting to.
I have a crocodile clip that I use as a third hand to hold the connector or wire.
First tint the connector (use the outside of the connector) and the wire beforehand. This means you put down a layer of solder on the connector and wire before you solder them together.
By using the clamp / crocodile clamp /vice to hold the connector, put the wire on the part that you want to solder, touch the wire or both parts with the soldering iron-point if possible and add some soldering wire on it. Beware,
Its pretty simple really, just make sure you tin everything(which means get everything covered in solder). if you still cant figure it out go onto youtube and type in how to solder a deans connector.
tin the connections, heat each connetion up and apply a little dab of solder, then put the connections together and heat up until it all goes together, dont forget your shrink wrap!
u shouldnt need to scuff up anything, if you are heating the connector enough it holds solder fine, pre tin both the connector and the wire, put enough on the connector so u dont need to add more, once pre tinned, place wire on top and apply heat to the wire, hold until it melts and remove heat, keep wire still as u may weaken the joint.also if your using a pencil tip soldering iron try a chisel tip, they transfer heat more efficiently. hope u figure it out.
Make sure you are using 60/40 rosin core solder. The rosin core is the flux built into the center of the wire. When you are tinning the connector you will notice a little brown liquid flowing also. Keep the solder heated for another 2 seconds or so, until the smoke coming off it lessens and you should have a nice, shiny, clean, and strong adhesion to the tab. These solder great and using a hemostat to, hold the wire steadily and compactly in place, will make it very easy and fast.
Genuine deans connectors are rated by the manufacturer at 60 amps. I have used the HK version, and they are just as good. However, I don't rate them as being twice as good as the originals. Above 60 amps, Deans found that the heat due to high amps in the connector could cause de-soldering of the joint. I would suspect that with a similar surface area, the HK T-connectors would have the same problem.
I have generally found that the manufacturer rating for Deans is conservative and I have no problems using them up to 80amp. Anything above that I switch to EC5's which are sold here and work perfectly. The easiest way for me to make the decision on which connector to use is to look at the gauge of the wire on the battery I want to use, if its 10 gauge or higher EC5 for me.
This will handle a couple hundred amps, but in short bursts, no way they will handle a constant 120A. I use these connectors in both jets and rc cars (high current draw) and have never had them desolder or melt :/.... but, the XT-60s are supposed to be able to handle more amps.
120 amps constant is too much. For my 90mm 6S planes, I use the polymax 5.5mm bullet connectors www.link pull 85 - 90 amps constant through these and they barely get warm.
For /- 120 Amps you need serious terminals that are secured by nuts. If not you are dealing with a DC electric arc welder whenever you try to plug the two connectors together. Should be fun to see the sparks fly ...
I would rather use the EC5 connector www.link if you really need to use the T-connector use two of them in parallel.
This should spread the load to 60 amps per plug ?
Are these a good general 11.1 volt Lipo to Esc (30A to 80A) connector. I am sick of buying adapters and looking for a battery with right connector. Please?
Hi I think it is great all though I thinks it is only rated to 50A. All my batteries are fitted with them. Once they are fitted the is not chance of connect a battery back to front. BUT hobby King is recommending you use the newer XT-60. """"We suggest all customers to upgrade to the new XT-60 connector where possible as that is the connector attached to nearly all our batteries, esc, charger and models"""""
XT-60 plugs are fine, but they can be fair cows to pull apart sometimes, on occasion I have damaged airframe, these will do the job and are easier to separate, especially once they are "worn in".
I personally like both, but didn't know the T connector was only rated to 50A. I have found on either, that if you plug in the opposite (mating) plug to the one you are soldering and then only remove after it cools down. It makes them considerably easier to pull apart, by keeping the connecting tabs from warping under the heat of soldering.
I have deans on all my models/batteries/chargers . I don't know what all the fuss is about thes xt-60. It's just bullet connectors in a plastic howsing.Make a piece of plastic wo-ho new connector Now lets force everybody to use them because we say so. I personaly chose deans and i'm staying with them for ever. my flying buddies all have deans so we can share batteries and stuff on the field if needed.
This is my most favourited connector. I have used them on 200A speed controllers and have had not one problem. They have a very high current. The also feature a grip which the genuine deans dosnt have which makes it a lot better.
I've used Deans Connectors since I started 8 years ago. NEVER a single problem other then when they get hot during soldering and the tab pushes through. It's always my fault though with my shotty soldering job! These are the connectors 90pcnt of R/C hobbyist use for all their models. They even have "baby" deans connectors for micro's!
these connectors are the ducks nuts guys. i love them. change every plane you own to them, and put them on every battery you buy. problem solved, all your batteries can then interchange between all your planes and no more having to change your charging leads when charging either!
Anything will melt at the right temp or if you keep a soldering iron on it long enough. As far as better or worse than the xt60's, that really falls down to personal preference. I use them because it is the standard on all my gear. If you're just starting out, I would reccomend that you match what is on your planes or batteries. If most of your stuff is xt60's, I'd go for those or whatever the connector may be. But it is really just up to you.
I use these all the time, basically because I'm cheap :P, but they do their work just fine. I solder them with a 30-40w iron and they have never melted.
I use them cause everyone I know use's deans or "T-Connectors" so might aswell use what your local group uses just incase you need to borrow a battery, or speed control, the correct plugs will already be on, either of the connectors (T-connector/deans, XT-60 or even TRX style) should be fine for almost anyones RC needs.
I like the T-connectors better than the XT-60,s. I have used T- connectors for battery connections as well as motor connections. I have never melted one during use. I have some T-connectors that have been in use for almost 10 years now with no problems. They will melt when soldering if too much heat is used though.
Neither are reall better. It all comes down to availiability. If most things in your system is wired to a T connector go down that road. Otherwise XT-60 are a good way to go. Also take into account what others use. Its a lot easier to have someone lend you a battery and such if yours fails at a flying field.
I've actually ordered enough of these to replace all of my Deans plugs, because these offer a better grip, when you need to unplug the battery. Dean's are smooth, and can be a pain to unplug. These offer the logo as a gripping surface, which makes them a lot easier to use.
Their also fairly resistant to proper heat levels for soldering.As stated before, anything will melt if you overheat it.
I recently received mine and they are tons better with heat than deans no problems at all, I changed all my deans to these so much easier to grip and quality is better.
XT60 and Dean -T connectors, have the same current ratings. These deans (Xt version) are pretty heat resistant and will not melt easily. In the end choosing between the 2 is a question of what you have already or wich do you prefer to manipulate but in any case there is no pros in changing all you plugs to one or the other.
the XT-60 connectors are easier to attach wires and sepperate but there is nothing wrong with deans plugs i have used them for years and never once had any problems
T-deans are good for example for 450-500 heli class so 60-70 Amps application. For bigger helis or higher Amps i use with great results EC5. I don't like the XT60 for practice point of view. EC5 are easy to solder and use.
these are the best connectors available on the market. They dont melt and feature a grip which the geniune deans dont. These are a very good connector.
these are the hobby king version of the deans connector which is one of the top of the line battery connectors so these should be able to handle pretty much anything you are going to be using this for without melting
these plugs are awesome. especially if you fly 450's 500's. there good on rc cars trucks also. Havent had one melt yet, not even with a ****y soldering iron.
they are very good but the metal contacts can warp under the heat if your soldering iron isnt very powerful, and you have to hold the tip on the joint for a long time to make the contact. A good tip is to fit both sides of the t connector together and this holds the metal terminals in place perfectly
hi there , i have orded these to replays my tamiya clips on my car and boat , how do i solder these clips to my battery , and the ESC of my car and boat ? thanks !!
It's really more user preference than anything else, but as the other comments point out, use a male end for one and female end on the other making sure the polarity stays the same. Use heat shrink tubing to then cover the solder joints and seal the exposed metal. Also make sure to only cut one battery wire at a time and take great care that the two exposed leads do not make contact as it could result in a fire, or damaging your battery pack. Also, make sure to use flux to aid in your connection
Suelda la hembra a la bateria y siempre con una cable aislado, pues si por error se unen el rojo y el negro tendras un accidente y una posible destrucción de la bateria.
Hello friend!
First of all you need to know that the connector that goes in the battery has to be female, to avoid short circuit ok? Another thing to note there are two connectors on the negative and positive symbols - and you need to solder the black to the negative (-) and red to positive ( ) after the solder and insulate both parties.
Or use the heat pipe shrimp.
At ESC you solder the other side of the connector (male) by following the red and black, no problem. done.
Good riding!
Go to youtube and search 'solder deans'. You will see a lot of people fumble. Then add these tips. This is a three handed job! for the third hand I use a pair of pliers and a friend or vice grips to hold the connector while I work. Tin the wires, then the connectors, slip your heat shrink over your wires, then join wires to the connectors. Do the positive first since its the most difficult. Get in and get out, taking too long will melt your connector. As soon as I see the solder flow on both the
You should solder female on battary so that to avoid of shortcut. on the other hand It would be good that you solder black wire as a negative to the horizontal part, and the red as positive to the vertical one.
When removing the original wires from your Tamiya connectors,make note when soldering them onto the new T-connectors that they have a and a - symbol cast into the plastic above the contacts on the backside.This is to identify the correct polarity when soldering on your new connectors.Make sure you pre-tin the battery wire ends and the connectors contacts where they make contact.Lots of solder on the T-connectors contacts will allow the solder to flow and meld with your pre-tinned wire ends gi
Hiya Turnigy65, simply cut the Tamiya connector off your battery and ESC and throw them into a bin. Next solder the FEMALE T-connector to the BATTERY and solder the MALE T-connector to your ESC. The MALE T-connector has 2 contacts out both ends and the FEMALE has 2 holes and 2 short contacts. Solder the RED leads of battery and ESC to the POSITIVE and solder the BLACK leads to the NEGATIVE. The positive ALWAYS has a THICKER NYLON casing. The positve and negative contacts are also marked on the B
cut off the old connectors, leave some wire on old plug if you want to make an adapter for emergencies (good idea), use the female side(on battery) without the exposed contacts so it cat short out if it touches something metal,get some heat shrink tubing , slide it way down wires, cut back wire insulation 1/4" about the length of the solder tabs.solder wires to tabs, wait to cool down or the heat shrink will shrink before you slide it all the way up the connector. use a lighter or heat gun to sh
use soldering iron set to at least 700 degrees, strip wire back 1/8", tin wire and connector tabs. tinning is applying solder to wire and connector tab. slide heat shrink tubing all the way down wire. tin you soldering iron, set wire on connector tab and apply heat to bottom of tab then to top of wire, it shouldn't take too long for solder to flow, remove iron and allow to cool before you let wire go, you can blow on solder joint, this will cool it faster. slide heat shrink down to connector
When I solder connectors to a battery I work on one side at a time. Meaning I will remove the Positive wire from the old connector and tin and solder it to the new one, then fit the heat shrink. Then I repeat the process with the Negative. This keeps you from shorting out the battery by touching exposed Pos. and Neg. wires on the battery.
Question guys, I have Deans on all my equipment, batteries, etc. Are these XT ends compatable with my Deans? eg. can my Deans plug into these XT connectors and can they plug into my Deans?
Yes they will fit with no problems. In fact you will have a better grip on these connectors and your fingers would probably slip off the Deans if the fit is tight.
Cdntrini, I was in the same situation as you are. I had all my hardware based on Deans because this is pretty much the standard in the industry. However, as engineer, I never liked the way Deans connectors were conceived. Flat plate contact enforced by a ridiculous flat spring against a low tolerance moulded plastic is not what I would call "good design". It works, true, but I was expecting to have a faulty contact sooner or later. It came sooner and the consequence was a substantial loss. I decided to escape Deans and at the time I was decided to replace them by bullet connectors, HK launched the XT-60 that are just bullet connectors properly encased. I liked the way it was designed, although I find them unecessarily bulky. I switched everything to XT-60 and I'm very happy. Obviously I made small adapters that allow me to use my friends' packs, data loggers, etc, that use Deans.
those are T-connectors, so they should be compatible, i've ordered those to works with deans...at last if there are not compatible, with 10 pairs, you can replace the Deans.
Yes and Yes. They are compatible and work sweet together. Just be careful with the soldering, overheating will cause the Nylon to melt and inside the female it can cause the Nylon to get between the connection a bit. Soldering with male n female plugs together can resolve this.
To Check Connection, After soldering,
plug in(turn on), then hold female in one hand, and male with the other, twist male n female opposite directions both ways to check if power cut's out. As the problem can be intermittent.
Yes. They seem fully compatable. Have not tested for huge currents, but they fit my original deans male and female. They are not quite as tights, but I think that is good. The grip helps alot. Aff
Yes, they are 100 compatible with Deans. As a matter of fact I like these much better than deans connectors. The grip on these is far superior (and not to mention cost alittle less :) )
I don't use deans on my packs, but I have a bunch of adapters and charging harnesses with all sorts of different t connectors(real deans, knockoffs, etc.) and these fit them all fine.
The simple answer : no.
You have 2 choices :
1) take the XT off the new battery you just bought and replace it with a Deans-T
2) replace the Deans with XT on all your equipment.
3) get a pair of Deans and a pair of XT and 4in of wire and build an adapter.
Honestly, I prefer option 1).
It is also a good idea to have an adapter as well. For emergencies and for sharing with fellow R/C friends
Yes they can. I think there better than the normal deans connectors just because they have grips on them, and deans are smooth (hard to grip and pull apart) sweetie hands after extreme bashing.
Deans originally threatened HobbyKing with legal action. However, since Deans have done nothing to stop other vendors and the plugs are sold throughout China and Asia, HobbyKing feels there is no merit in Deans' claim and will continue to sell T-connector compatible plugs along with the rest of China.
If I remember correctly from conversations I've had on this subject, Deans do not have a patent on this type of connectors but the name "Deans" is copyrighted. And as a result of the legal issues with HK, Deans have loss business, but not because of these copies. People were discusted and moved on to other connectors (bullet, XT60, Traxxas...)
I've used these with original deans and they do work. They are a little tight, but for the price
they can't be beat! To help the grip I used my soldering iron and burned little spots all over the grip area. That made it easier to pull apart
yes they will fit into your original deans plugs. if they are a little bit more thicker you can change your originals or you can remove with a nail file
YES they fit perfectly fine. I have many that interconnect without a problem. These are actually better because they give a better grip when pulling apart due to the ridges on the connector sides.
These XT deans plugs are great better then the real deans why because they have grips to pull apart AWESOME. keep these instock HobbyKing.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
scarletboa
264 likes
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1 thumbs up!
i have used these exact connectors before and they are not only as good as deans, they're better due to the nice ridges on them. i run some fairly high amp setups with bursts of up to 200a and i have never had one of these connectors get more than lukewarm. i just ordered 5 sets (50 pairs).
hopefully they are here to stay this time.
7 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
CANYONBIKER
273 likes
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UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
1 thumbs up!
The T-connectors are back!!!!!! Get them while you can before the stock runs out. I've used these XT T-connectors before and they work great. Easy to pull apart due to the surface texture and they don't get hot during use. ( I pull 80 amps through them on my pylon plane )
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Willowsway
43 likes
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Like it?
Great connectors! Works better with the ridges on the sides, give you something to grip onto when you pull them apart. Great price on these as well!
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Tieto
95 likes
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Finally they are back!! Thank you so very much!!!
I've been using these in all my applications from 300g slowflyers
to 3kg 6cell planes, and in all my cars. That means using them from 6A to 150Amps - and never any problems!
It's so versatile to have one standard on battery and esc!
Thank you again for bringing back this excellent product!!!
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