You can make some changes in the canopy and try putting it on the lower part bu tif your are not good at modifications please don't try any cutting or moulding because i know HK-450 is a very beautiful helicopter :P
Yes, you can. Different C rating is not good under extreme loads - the higher C rating battery would discharge a bit forward. But, as I think you're doing so for long flight times, not to draw 200A currents, in this case you'll be fine with your config. Different mah is good - nothing bad would happen in any case.
Bought 4 of these and must say, after only 8 to 9 uses on my quad, I'm very disappointed. 2 of these in parallel, voltage drops quickly only after only about 4 min. of hovering, gives only 1300 to 1600 mah, nowhere near 2650 as labelled. This seems utterly overrated on the label. Am I missing something?
I plan to use this with
3X F-30A –* Hobby King 30A ESC 3A UBEC Speed Controller
will this combination work? I have been reading that the High C will protect against overdrawing the battery, and that the Constant C does not need to be very high?
How do I know what the lowest Constan C should be?
Can someone help me with the proper settings on an IMAX B6AC? Should I charge THESE batteries at 5.0a...should I charge longer at a lower A? Any special settings on that charger to get the most out of these batteries while extending the life of these batteries, etc?
Thanks in advance. Total noob here so any info on settings is new info to me.
DO not charge this guy at 5A unless you want a fire. Stick with 1A charging to get good long life out of this lipo. Google LiPo charging. Charging is based on a couple factors, easy to figure out once you understand what they mean.
Really you could go up to 2.65A with this pack, as long as your charger knows it is a 3 cell. Basically capacity, or C rating, is the max charge rate that you want to use. SO 2650mah=2.65A=dont charge faster than that.
Alway use use a charge current of around 2.65Amps for this battery. All lipos I know of like to be charged at 1C so a 1000mah at 1A, 2200 at 2.2A etc... Less current can cause them to over charge (as keeps trickling charge in) which is bad for them, and more current is bad for them... both lower the life expectancy of your battery. Also don't leave lipos at near 3V per cell or for weeks fully charged. And finally, regularly balance charge them to ceep each cell in check. I have had few douzen flying hours out of this battery and it is still going strong! Hope this helped!
pour des 2650 mettre 2400ma dedans c'est très bon, le rodage des batteries joue un peu et la consommation du moteur peut expliquer cela, si le moteur consomme beaucoup les batterie chute vite, si le moteur consomme moins les batteries chute a la fin moin vite et l'on peut gagner 200 a 300 ma.
In the discription it notes that the pack comes with the bullet connector. This type of connector is far sepier to the XT60 for power transfer. They can handle up to 110amps. The XT60 is only 60 amps. All af my models have 4mm bullets with power feeds from 300 watts to over 2500 watts with no problems.
Anyone tested this in series to run Turnigy Typhoon 600H or any other similar motor? According to the figures it is able to deliver 66.25A continuous so should be fine for motor that draw less than 60A.
The best and safest way to go is the 80 rule. Unless you really need a pack that small, I would suggest something like a 25C 3300mah to get you at 80 of output. Not only will you have long run times but a longer pack life as the cells are not taxed as much.
Of course you can, you are not obliged to buy "a powerfull 300 -or even 1.000- watts" charger for the sole reason your pack "could be charged" at (maximum) 5C ( /- 13,25 Amp/12v ) within about /- ten minutes. From a conservative point of view if you charge at 1 C (or two, why not) your batteries will even thank you for non stressing them. You can wait one little half hour more and discuss with friends during the charge, non ?
I use a normal LIPO charger, that gives maximum 5A which would be almost 2C. But the converter gives 3A, peak 4,5A. So the bottleneck is the converter. To be able to charge 5C you'd need a powerful converter/or other powersource and a charger that can deliver some amps. Powerful converters are usually expensive and tends to be big though.
Just quick note. I haven't used these batteries yet but I did notice the label fitted to the battery is incorrectly labelled as a 2S and not a 3S. I also bought a 4S 2650 and it was also icorrectly labelled as a 3S. The box they came in was correctly labelled however. You can confirm the correct voltage by counting the wires in the balance lead and/or measuring the voltage.
Well i just wish i could get the product. I orderd this last friday the 4th march 2011. the payment went from my bank to Hecktronic/ Hobbyking. But it's showing inreserved and problem with my c card. yet my bank statement clearly shows HK has had the money. I was hoping to put these in my HK450, but looks like ill have to battle with HK yet again...
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6 thumbs up!
Bought 2 of these, use them in series as a 6 cell. After two flights in heli 1 battery was very hot. The cell voltages were batt 1 3.34v, 3.20v, 3.06v. batt 2 3.19v, 2.93v, 0.67v. I have tried charging individual cells to bring them up, this worked. 1 battery is still swollen, I can't trust them. So bought a dirrerent brand. To expensive to send them back.
The first tests are not good, the internal resistance of the first, second after charging high mOhm 7, which is not 1Mohm as they say! After the third measurement is 5 mOhm which also has a high! Turnigy the cheaper battery can also do this. Not worth more than $ 10! The measurements were carried out CELLPRO 10S charger, the first two in the third degree 0 C 21 C degrees. 25 had been exhausted. This is not good.