The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Maj have you seen any reason to incorporate the HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor for an add on for altitude control?,,,or is this money not well spent? Has anyone tried it that you know of and what results did they have with low level accuracy? I'm thinking along the lines of low level sports video's while filming jet boats coming at me, passing by me,,,then speeding away upstream. Since the barometer over any level is sketchy at best (depending on the foam) then over water (only way to get the good stuff) would defiantly need a little more reliability or,,,,,splash,,,,lol
Enough said. Hey Mooch was up late last night ripping a few,,,,see which one to throw your way of my fiddle at work,,,,wanted to show you a little ditty I wrote,,,,and then of course rip one thats noisy (a regular hillbilly hoe down),,,,,lol I'll throw one of them up here. It is pouring here,,,and said to last for three days,,,so looks like I will be working on my boat today and tomorrow,,,no flying,,,***mer,,,, Stay safe, and thanks for the come back Mooch,,,see ya
Newey ... I have a sonar sensor but it is used for different FC .. Mooch is right, the baro takes care of heights above 3 M and the sonar below 3M .. but who flies at 3M? Interesting to see but has no real need ... except for auto landing to prevent the "bounce" .... Can't wait to hear your ditty .... I have some in my head and have used them for background in my earlier vids ....
Can some one please help? my friend and i have built my second mutirotor. first was a quad had no problem at all it went well. now we built a hex using this fight controller again using mega pirate, but now it want find the GPS. we have tried the gps unit of the other one but still doesn't work. The Gps board it come with only has 4 wires (differant to the other one) Any ideas ? we have checked to programming twice...
BG ... have you tries Multiwii ? The latest version (MWC 2.3 NAV) now supports waypoints - which was probably the biggest selling point for MPNG, The MKT works okay with MWC ... although the Ublox units are better.
Several reasons ... 1) This board was purpose designed for Multiwii while MNPG which is an Arducopter port was designed for the APM boards. 2) Multiwii is less complex than MPNG and the learning curve is not as steep as MPNG. 3) Waypoints. If you had MWC loaded and using the MKT, I would tell you to uncomment the a) NMEA line, b) Serial 2, c) Init MKT and d) 115200 baud rate. Then cross connect Rx-Tx, Tx-Rx, Vcc-Vcc, Grd-Grd on the Serial 2 and you'll get at least 7 sats ..
You need to use MWC 2.3 official if you plan to use a Linux distribution. Download the 2.3 package from the Multiwii Google code page and run the Linux version of MultiwiiConfig. MWC 2.3 Nav is only supported with WinGUI .. the name says it all. Give a shout out if you need help in configuring the board.
I'm embarrassed how much these CF props costed me and to think these were a waste of money???? oh well not like I haven't made mistakes before,,,,but don't like to repeat them. Has anyone ordered the CF props from HK? And what did you think?
I got the CF props here at HK ... just the 9 and 8 inch props. The 9 were nicely balanced ... the 8 needed some balancing. If I have the CF props on, because they are stiff, I need to enable LPF in config.h otherwise I get twitches - and throttle response is very rapid also noticed the CF tend to be "noisier" (they cut the air differently from the GF ...). I do not know if this is 100% true but plastic props tend to give and are more forgiving with vibration ... which could explain why I need a LPF with the CF vs GF blades. Given the price, I am reserving my CF props for an Acro copter ....
I only use the CFC (carbon fiber composite) HQ props...... they are cheap ($11/set of 4) and they are smooth as....... only prob is they only come in 1 colour so that makes flying that bit more "interesting"............so NO to CFs........ for me..... cheap arent I?
Maj, my stupid showing threw here,,,,but what is LPF? ( I need to enable LPF in config.h otherwise I get twitches) if this is what I think you mean,,,,I'm already sketched in at 42hz in the filtering already. Can I increase the filtering?,,,or is 42hz pretty drastic? I have watched allot of Mooch's vids on props and balancing,,,,and I know this is anal,,,,but ran his audio threw my mixer and filtered out all the base and intermediate tone to isolate just the motor (as much as possible) and concentrated on noise associated with vibration,,,,I also ran your latest vid with the RB hex and Andy's Octocopter threw with the same presets. What I came up with is very distinctive differences between frame (rattle or vibration) and "motor& prop" noise. Your GF props matched against Andy's CF props,,,,the difference is remarkable. Also,,as I watched your RB's vid,,I noticed a vibration,,,bordering on rattle sounding that I have heard on my quad. Not to the naked ear but while watching my vids,,I can hear like a rattle along with prop noise. Could it be the NTM's I'm running? I have replaced two as they are bearing monsters. Think I'm going back to school and re-balance everything (or try )and start over.
Newey ... the rattle you hear (I noticed that too ...) is when I am flying Position Hold with Altitude hold and the copter is getting tossed around in the wind or when the copter is descending rapidly - you can also hear prop cavitation. You can see the copter frame actually jumping up and down - this is not visible in the video itself but you do notice that the video shows the vibration - not really jello - with the whole gimbal moving up and down slightly. None of my copters have the NTM motor (so it's not your motor). My hunch is that as the copter bounces up and down, on the upward bounce it becomes weightless for a fraction of a second before gravity pulls it down so maybe - just maybe ... the shaft of the motors is pulled slightly up then slammed down. I know I have some play on my shafts so the bearing do not get crushed ... and that could be my rattle. Can't be from the gimbals as the BL motors do not have any slop and nothing moves. I also hear a rattle on the quad with wood booms - but not as high pitch and does not sound like harmonic distortion ... I think in the wooden quad, it is attenuated.
WOW! Maj, that blew me away, the difference between your RB's vid and this woody quad is amazing. Picture quality is great. Very noticeable that your quad is siiiilllky smmooooth. Would I be a nuisance if I asked for your layout? What size is that? I think that wood also noise dampened the whole thing. I'm impressed. Makes me want to build one from wood now,,,, :-)
Newey ... the copter is a Robo 550 with the fiber center frame. The only change was to replace the alum boom with wood of the same dimensions (from Lowe's...). The motors are direct mounted to the wood booms with two screws. The LG is from the HAL heavy lifter alum holders and CF rod riser and skids that "dislocate" in hard landings instead of breaking apart at the plastic joints. I changed the motors to DT-750's with 11 props that give it a longer flight time and surprisingly smoother ride ... need to take it to do a side by side video ....and a walk round ... coming soon.
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED