The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
Newy... heads up on headsfree...... stand and face north for example with headsfree (HF) mode selected & standing behind your copter........... arm it..... now all your forward stick movements will make the copter go fwd.... all back stick movements will make it come back and side to side..... you can YAW the copter around in circles and the stick inputs are still the same..... the stick inputs are working off the compass.... pure and simple....
As a caution, make sure your mag works properly and based on painful experience, a) no power distribution boards under the copter ... b) run the ESC power wires around the board not under it. Test headfree at low altitude first ... engage head free then low hover ... tilt the copter back and forth (north / south)... then slowly yaw ... if the tilt direction remains the same (say north to south) i.e. does not change as the copter turns around, you are good. If the tilt direction changes as your yaw - stop immediately otherwise your next stick movement will end in a RTE for sure ...
Gor Hox ... I have a BL gimbal stuck somewhere .... already reported to HK CS but they said to wait for 39 business days before declaring the shipment lost. Hoping for the best but this is definitely not normal. The Hex copter is now flying the gimbal that was planned to be included is MIA ... but all is not lost ... I found a way to reprogram the Martinez BL boards with Alexmos firmware and that is more valuable that any $40 gimbal.
It's so frustrating. But this is not the fault of HK or Swiss Post. It's the butt heads at US customs. Swiss Post has done an A job keeping us informed through the tracking screen, and HK offered to help track the issue even though is was not their fault. I just don't have enough stuff to build one without the shipment and flying the little store-bought ditties is getting boring.
PRODUCT ID: 9171000283-0 Maj, Have you seen this one here at HK? Looks to be super rugged with some minor up grades and did some measuring off my quad as far as the boom OD aluminum booms could be extended using the HK 650Glass quads motor mounts as they would mod over to this one without hitch????
Hey Newy ... the longer I look at the copter you mentioned, the more I think about the H-frame copter. A DIY mixed CF and wood ply body and aircraft alloy booms ... even wood. What I've learned is that a frame should match the purpose of the copter. Question for you is ... how would you be flying your copter? The frame you are looking at seem to have parts problems at the moment ....
Thanks Majik! That one has an EagleTree system for a RMRC antenna tracker. I have another one the same size with the MWPro, and a 530mm tri for flipping around. That one has a CC3D on it and a DragonLink. I am the builder for GetFpv**** so I have a QAV540G with a Naza lite. I stole a couple motors off my 850mm Y6 for the other tri's. They all have fpv if some sort. My favorite one probably is the 530mm. I like the feel of the CC3D best.
Hey Chuck ... I fly heli's too ... but not 3D ... more like up and down stuff. Tri's are interesting and probably my next build after I get this Hex properly tuned. I have more copters than I have room and adding a new copter means retiring another .... Mooch has eleven or twelve - I lost count and adding more as we speak. May reach out to you on the tri if you do not mind ...
Very nice indeed Maj. Nice back little park, or back yard. I'm impressed with the stability of the gimble. Someday you are gonna have to explain "headfree" and what it is and does. I understand the premise of "head-in" as it heads in with face towards you as it returns to where it armed. But what is headfree's parameters? By the way Maj,,,,,I think that is the first time I seen your face,,,,wahooo! I thought you was safety minded until I seen the helmet was what you have your sport cam attached to,,,,good idea, plus they are cheap. Before I go and buy hex,,,got to ask one dumb question though,,,,,do all hex and octo's have a wind issue as they have a increased wing surface because of more props? I'm also ready to order my stunt copter frame but don't know what I should get? I'm thinking in the 450mm range, but don't know what you or Mooch would recommend to get? It has to have parts available as I don't intend to crash it,,,,but know it will inevitably happen. I will probably NEVER put a camera on it,,,and will be just for fun. But the next heavy lifter cant have any wind issues. By they way,,,,,that's the first time I've had the pleasure of seeing your face Maj. Lets hope that's not the last time.
Newey .. I do have some earlier vids with me in the starring role ... but those were made a long time ago ... Anywho, I wanted to capture how the gimbal can stabilize a camera even if the copter frame angle is very awkward .... The challenge with a camera in the helmet is that it has to be aimed just right or you get the sky or the ground and totally miss the subject ... not fun what you just spent the best part of the day filming. If you want a sports copter for bashing, get a flamewheel clone ... those frames are cheap and the FC board can be put inside the frame for bullet proof protection. I have the Alien frame variant with a longer body (more real estate) and can be use for FPV (if I can get a buddy ...) already have the frame, camera, Minim, Video Tx/Rx .... if not for FPV then for general bashing - minus the GPS stand of course - probably put it flat on one boom.
FINALLY we get a majvid........ that copter (even though its not pink as originally thought) looks sweet..... and the gimbal reacts perfectly (I will be trying mine out today)..... and it was great to put a face to the words........ you my friend are a legend...... I like the 2nd vid in the lower RH corner... did you do that with windows movie maker?
Newey ... the easiest way to describe Headfree is to show what it looks like ... with headfree, the copter does not need orientation - it can be facing any direction and you can "point" the copter to where you want it to go. When you want to deactive, just keep in mind it takes the orientation it is currently facing ... could be a challenge when you are not tail in ....
No it doesnt have PIP so I will look into that program..... Newy.... Myop re stunt flying........ the bigger you go frame wise the slower the stunt flying which stands to reason..... I would suggest you look at the 550mm range and if you want to go more dynamic and faster go to a 400 then to a 330 if you want super slippery........ my two 550's (red and black) both are super superb machines and they handle rather nicely (as you can see from the 100's of vids I have done with them) plus the boom arms are cheap as chips ($5 for a set of 4)... so even when (not if) you crash you only have to replace the arms as the centre plates can take a beating.....and when you have enough bent / damaged arms you can cut them down to make you 400mm frames........ check out J9.. shes sweet.....
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
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Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED