The MultiWii PRO is a gyro/accelerometer based flight controller that is loaded with features. This version of the MultiWii supports direct connection of a GPS module (package includes MTK 3329 GPS module) allowing for ultra-precise positioning functionality. With expandability options and full programmability, this device can control just about any type of aircraft. This is the ideal flight controller for your multi-rotor aircraft.
Features: (MultiWii PRO) • SMD component design with Atmega2560 • ITG3205 Triple Axis Gyro • BMA180 Accelerometer • BMP085 Barometer • HMC5883L Magnetometer • Servo output for camera pitch and roll control • Supports direct connection of GPS module (MTK 3329 GPS module included) • On-board USB connection for programming
(MTK 3329 GPS Module) • Based on MediaTek Single Chip Architecture. • L1 Frequency, C/A code, 66 channels • High Sensitivity, Up to -165dBm tracking, providing superior urban performance • DGPS(WAAS, EGNOS, MSAS) support (optional by firmware) • USB/UART Interface • Supports AGPS function (Offline mode: EPO valid up to 14 days)
Specs: (MultiWii PRO) Mounting: Standard Mk style mounting holes 45mm X 45mm Dimensions: 70x50x12mm Weight: 16g
(MTK 3329 GPS module) Position Accuracy: < 3m CEP (50%) without SA (horizontal) Cold Start: under 35 seconds (Typical) Warm Start: under 34 seconds (Typical) Hot Start: under 1 second (Typical) Power Consumption: 48mA @ acquisition, 37mA @ tracking Shut-down current consumption: 15uA, typical Dimensions: 30x26x7mm Weight: 8g
*Note: See instructions on how to enable GPS function located under the "Files" tab.
Package content: MultiWii PRO FC x 1 MTK 3329 GPS Module x 1 GPS module connection leads x 1 Main board connection leads x 1 USB connection cable x 1
I have a multiwii pro. I have done everything by the book to get it working. After the sketch is loaded and tested in GUI the motors will not arm. Actually the motors make the arming sound when the battery is plugged in but will not throttle up. when I clear the eeprom the motors make the waiting to arm sound. after the sketch is loaded, as soon as the battery is plugged in the motors make the arming sound. I dunno what it could be. Anybody else have this problem? It sucks everything seems to be in order but the arming of the motors.
Thanks in advance for your help
There could be several issue in play ... not to worry, you are not alone. There is a posted document in the Files "what to do when your board does not arm" ... go through the suggestions and hopefully one works for you. Be careful when working with the FC, when testing, remove the props. Good luck!
Proof of concept. This HK Pro board. Tricopter using an Artech WingDragon 3 Ch as a frame. Flies very well - considering. Servos mounted front motors will tilt forward for forward flight but the tricopter feature will allow real VTOL capabilities .... more to come.
The Wingdragon has thick dihedral wings and flies slow and docile which I hope is good for transition. I'm still testing the glue for the wood boom and foam wing and it looks like white casein glue might do the job. Dowels on the wood boom embedded into the wing to keep the boom in place. Wing attached via rubber bands to the fuse (for those RTE's..) will keep this thing together longer by providing a flexible break point. Getting there one wire at a time.
So i thought i had it working could get gps and everything come to flying and have a problem where the motors all start up fine and then the rear right just stops working i dont think it is hardware as the same esc when on its own (ie not into the board but just a reciever) works fine any ideas is it sometihng ive done wrong?
Questions. a) Try swapping the ESC in question with another motor pin .. if the problem disappears, you could have a corrupted sketch and need to clear the EEPROM and upload. b) If after the swap, the stoppage still happens you could have a cold solder in one of the motor bullet connectors. The fact it starts means the motor wiring is okay. Pull on each bullet connector ESC and Motor side ... chances are you will be able to pull one out from the wire completely.
Hey mooch or any1 else. Does the f.l.i.p32 send power to the RX via the cppm cable? I got it all on the bench and programmed w telemetry and a frsky d4r2 RX but im not sure how to power it. Dont wanna brick it with a wrong connection... Running cleanfligt atm..
CPPM cable - you mean the servo lead wire? You have to connect the signal, power and ground wires as you would a regular channel. I've had the connection reversed before but that just sent signal to ground and vise versa ... no damaged except my pride.
The short answer is no......... its connected to the top pinout therefore the motor escs will provide the power to the board and the RX....... you can connect the battery straight to the board and hook the D4R up to the board as well.... vbat and telemetry......
I have vbat and telemtry enabled and connected. Just havent added the battery yet... Powerd the 32 on usb and RX from a 5v converter to test sticks and aux...so what you are saying and all videos on telemetry show that there is no need for a separate 5v cable to RX... It will be powerd from the PPM or vbat connections.... It will be in the frame during the weekend. :)
Thats correct :) however the 250 racing have been here for some time but i felt the kk2 needed retirement...And i wanted telemetry on this one... After i got the Vector with OSD and Telemetry im finding it better to have some battery info... There have been a few hard landings on the 250 from not enough power to recover from loops, rolls and speed dives :)
Got the 250 put toghther now. Im getting rssi feedback to taranis but not battery info. I have feature vbat enabled and telemtry in the cleanflight sw. Anything else i need? From the board the connectins are to the setial tx and ground onto rx (green) on the Frsky Rx and ground. In taranis i have cells and cell on the screen. Have not done anything to volt range setting in tarans yet. Was expecting data anyway and then calibrate volt rang. Any tips guys?
Ahaaaa ... there it is. I might just "steal" some of your build genius. Your ESC's look massive vs the boom ... so I'm. guessing provision for screamer motors. I installed a board that provides sonar alt-hold and compass capabilities .. so I can scoot at three feet above the ground hands off ... engage heading hold and I'm facing one direction ... One very bad crash (all four props broken ..) so I'm rethinking how to fly ...
Feel free to scavenge ideas :) still missing battery telemtry tho...even after arming.. Connectios are correct and cli commands is good as far as i can figure... Dont know where the issue might be yet. Esc are a bit big but they drive the 2300kvs good. .. Hope to testhover indoors tomorrow.. Snowing like crazy here in Norway at the moment :)
Great unit, with all the features you need for your MC. And the price is awsome, so normally, you cannot make a mistke on buying this unit.If you buy this features in europe, you will pay 3 times as much or more. For the HK price, you get at least the gps module ( sometimes ) but not incluiding the board, wich has a big and powerfull processor also. So another time, where HK makes our hobby affordable. This is what the MC-Flyers need to upgrade their machines.
42 comments. Reply..
Received the board today from HobbyKing .
After reading about all the broken Micro USB connectors on other FC like the Crius AIOP , I had a good look at the USB connector BEFORE connecting anything.
The micro USB connector is soldered to the board at the rear corners and also has 2 tabs half way down the sides.
Close inspection reveals that it does NOT have a lot of solder to hold it in place and YES it is likely to break off without some extra solder.
The side tabs do not appear to have been well soldered, my guess, surface mount automated soldering has not applied sufficient heat to get the solder flowing well around the tabs which are part of the larger metal connector shell, using a fine tipped soldering iron, care is required specially on the side near the pin headers, re soldered the metal tabs and also the rear corners of the connector, I don't think it will come off now.
Do keep in mind that is a very small connector and the cable can be used to apply sufficient leverage to rip it clean off the board, no amount of extra solder will prevent that, so be real careful not to apply sideways forces to the cable when plugged into the board.
The quality of the board, the soldering of all the other components, I can't fault it, all looks excellent.
Lots of information now in the files tab for the product at HobbyKing.
I connected the GPS to Serial 2, and the flashing LED