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qrf mods

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hokiward View Drop Down
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  Quote hokiward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: qrf mods
    Posted: 29/May/2010 at 6:12am
there are a few good mods in the main page but that thread is getting long, i thought i would start a mod thread.
 
I did this mod to drop my small spektrum reciever into the frame, offering more protection the ariel wire is enclosed in the plastic and held there with some blue tack.
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  Quote Brett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29/May/2010 at 7:57am
great idea hokiward, I'll add my mods here.
 
Mods included a lexan shim to sit on the outside of the join link and between the clip on the chain to tighten it up. This worked well.
 
The chain slider got re-vamped to improve its shape (see pic)
coro chain slider
 
Also I didn't bother mounting the stock bars at all and used 6" of .062" piano wire with some coro to give it some width for "floatation".  They did bend up a bit during some spectacular "high sides", but better them absorbing the punishment than the frame. They're cheap and easy to replace.
smaller crash bars
 
I am curious though, as to what the flexible bars on the ARX are made from.
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  Quote hokiward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30/May/2010 at 4:22am
flexible plastic
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  Quote FPVi7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30/May/2010 at 5:28pm

The Jimbos bikestand/tool container.. nice HokiwardThumbs Up..

Brett your chain guide is taking on a more store bought look.. good to see your video too!
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  Quote BernieC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31/May/2010 at 2:07am
A better material for your chain slider is a thin cutting mat, usually found at wal mart. Its a nylon type plastic about 3mm thick and would look authentic on the bike.
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  Quote FPVi7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31/May/2010 at 11:31am

I know the type boards you mean; they're easly trimmed and shaped with a hobby knife or chisel, you can get different thicknesses too even waffer thin..

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  Quote highsider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/Jun/2010 at 8:56am
Guys I have replaced my rear shaft with a 6mm x 100mm high tensile bolt and have since found it bulletproof. I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone. It's incredibly cheap and easy and works! Just grind the flats in the same position as the original and slap it in. The bolt head takes the place of one "e" clip and the other clip fits over the thread end nicely. I use a nut with threadlock as a little extra security. Costs about $3 for a packet of four with nuts here in oz.
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  Quote Janezki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/Jun/2010 at 8:38pm
I used the original hardened ARX shaft with ARX chain and sprockets, works like a charm. Dunno how they hold up at ARX, but a friend of mine snapped the hardened shaft in two from his bike at the first run.
Somethings gotta give up under power.... :P
A slipper of some kind might be very handy and gentle for driveline parts.

I changed the original shock to one from Traxxas Revo with purple spring (6.4 rate), dropped in some 60wt oil and I've got some serious dampening and more outward movement.
Might be even a little too stiff, have to try 40-50 wt oil or piston with bigger holes.

Here's a comparison pic from the shocks:


Just take the bottom link from the original shock shaft, put it to the Revo shock and that's it.



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  Quote Brett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Jun/2010 at 6:32am
yeah, looks like the ARX parts are the best (only) option at the moment for improving the bike.  My ARX chain turned up and it is impressively stronger than the stock chain.
 
Originally posted by Janezki

Just take the bottom link from the original shock shaft, put it to the Revo shock and that's it.
 
How did you remove the bottom pin of the shock from the swing arm?
Does it have to be "punched out" with a pin punch?
 
 
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  Quote Janezki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Jun/2010 at 7:53am
It's threaded, so just unscrew it from the shaft. Might need to hold the shaft with pliers etc., but don't scratch it.
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