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TMPro Predator UAV Spy Plane ARF
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RaWe View Drop Down
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Posts: 147 		  Quote RaWe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: TMPro Predator UAV Spy Plane ARF
    Posted: 03/Apr/2009 at 9:58pm
This is a personal  review about this product;
Manufacturer's Specs.
Wing Span: 74in 
Wing Area: 370sq in
Weight: 560g
Length: 34in 
Engine Required: Speed 400 Size: 28-** Outrunner
Radio Required: 4Ch / 4 Servos

Whats in the box:
 



Edited by RaWe - 24/Feb/2010 at 1:02am
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Posts: 33 		  Quote jojoviudez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 1:32am

That's a nice looking plane. Have you tried flying it already? Can you post your flight experience with it. When I see this type of plane, I think about camera surveillance. Are you planning to fit a video camera in it? I hope you enjoy flying this UAV plane. Happy flying!!!Clap
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Posts: 147 		  Quote RaWe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 5:58am
ITEMS (updates) required for the setup
 
Flight control Servos 8~9g (4units):

Nose Steering servo (1unit)

Connectors

20CM Servo Lead 32AWG    (2units)
40CM Servo Lead 32AWG     (2units)
Y Servo Lead 30cm Length    (1unit) 
 
Motor used:
 
Other Motor options:
 
ESC:
 
ESC to Motor connector:
 
Battery:
Hobby King Battery Monitor 3S (really useful item to keep flight time in check)
 
Propeller options; (non "pusher"props must be mounted front facing forward)
Master Airscrew propeller 9x7

Radio Sytem:
Futaba 7C 2.4GHz Heli w/R617FS Receiver
OR
Use appropriate charger if this radio is used with RCModelReviews excellent battery modifications. 
 
Material for making Wing joiner; 
(cut 2 pcs. 6mm strips from this and laminate to make 4mm thickness to fit into wing joiner slots)


Edited by RaWe - 21/Jan/2011 at 4:29pm
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W3FJW Ron View Drop Down
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Posts: 9067 		  Quote W3FJW Ron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 7:00am
55cm 14AWG silicon wire battery extension with deans connectors     
You would be much better off keeping the ESC foreward in the fuselage close to the battery and running 3 wires to the motors from the ESC.
Reason being the motors are 3 phase electric and won't have the voltage drop that the DC extensions will. Efficiency of the entire power system will increase by a good percentage as a result which should result in longer flight times..
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Posts: 147 		  Quote RaWe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 7:03am
Instruction Manual:
Search for motor specified in page 1 of manual came up empty even on TMPro website. http://www.topmodelproduction.com/electric-motors.htm. Instruction panel 16 on page 6 should refer to elevator/rudder.
 
The rest of the basic photo illustrated instructions pretty much covers the easy build. Maybe about 12hrs. if following the standard build. This review only covers whats not following or explained in the instructions.
 
The TGY AerodriveXp SK Series 35-30 1400Kv / 470w motor mount needs to be extended for prop adaptor to clear the motor cowling. I made strong light ply spacers for this. The thin fibre glass motor cowling  had portruding joint flashings inside which had to be removed. Mine split during that process and had to be rejoined and reinforced with fibre glass strips and some resin. I made ventilation holes and enlarged prop shaft opening after the joints were fully cured.
     
 
    


Edited by RaWe - 20/Apr/2009 at 6:41am
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Posts: 1971 		  Quote Mustang Sally Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 10:28am
Nice looking plane!
 
I will follow this review, keep on going with it.
 
I plan on getting one like this as well, the only thing I don't really like is the glossy finish, but we can do something about that.
 
Have you got a pusher prop or a normal one and let it rotate cw?
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Posts: 147 		  Quote RaWe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 2:59pm
Did not use the V-tail servo locations at servo tray up front with long wire pushrods to ruddervators.
Instead I cut servo openings near the tail stabs, reinforced ends of openings with thin lite ply strips from inside for servo screws. Now I have shorter direct linkage control surface throws!...Use slower cure CA...    
For this mod I used:
Two threaded 12cmX1.2mm wire pushrods I found somewhere Z bended at servo arms, with supplied clevises and horns and two 45CM Servo Lead Extention (JR) 26AWG  
    
 
W3FJW, would that ESC/Motor wiring configuration help reduce signal interference problems Question Hmmm....All those additional long leads will be running thru that narrow fuse cos of my V-Tail servo re-positionsErmm! Mustang, no pusher prop, just a normal one rotating as if mounted up front.
  


Edited by RaWe - 19/Apr/2009 at 6:43pm
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Jason5001 View Drop Down
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Posts: 2859 		  Quote Jason5001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 3:08pm
Excellent work.
Simple, yet informative.
Store credit coming your way, hold on until later this month!
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W3FJW Ron View Drop Down
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Posts: 9067 		  Quote W3FJW Ron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 3:24pm
 
Would that ESC/Motor wiring configuration help reduce signal interference problems
 
Long DC power leads are much more prone to noise than AC motor leads and would IMO have more of a tendency to cause problems.
Don't just run 3 leads from the ESC to the motor. Twist all 3 leads together at a rate of 1 to 2 turns every inch. What ever is possible with the #14 wire. This helps to cancel out any High frequency noise that might be induced in the leads.
Since you're intending to install a video system at some point, All the noise reducing techniques you can use at this point will pay off in spades later on.
It would also be great to wrap the leads from the ESC to the Rx around a toroid 8 or 9 times as close to the Rx plug as possible. This helps to keep any high frequency switching noise generated by the ESC out of the Rx & servo ckts.
 
BTW, congrats on the store credit award.


Edited by W3FJW Ron - 04/Apr/2009 at 3:36pm
Best Regards
I can only remember half of what I say....
I used to walk on water 'til I found out it was more fun sitting in the boat drinking beer

Ron
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SeaComms View Drop Down
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Posts: 1226 		  Quote SeaComms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2009 at 5:02pm
Nice one RaWa, been looking at them just 'cause they are different :)

Back to the wiring I will throw my 2c in.  Long wires from battery to ESC are of a higher resistance, wich reduces the stabilising properties of the battery the further away from the battery you get. On your ESC, there is (usually) 2 large filter capacitors on the input side designed to reduce as much as possible any noise on the input power line.  Lengthening the battery line puts more and more stress on these caps and can eventually cause them to overheat and fail.  Two options, increase the diameter of the wire to reduce resistance, or decrease the length to reduce resistance. 

I prefer Rons suggestion with the longer motor wires, as the only detrimental problem is a minor reduction in voltage to the motor.  However if using the same size wire as you had used to lengthen the battery side wire, by having to use 3 you are already reducing the added resistance by 1/3 and any electrical noise can be pretty much eradicated by Rons suggestion of twisting the wire.

Keep up the good work and am very interested to see it with some camera gear attached in to not so distant future.


Edited by SeaComms - 04/Apr/2009 at 5:04pm
Cheers, Dave.
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