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Giant Turnigy Motor & Proper ESC - Need Max Power!
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Hrvoje View Drop Down
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Posts: 51 		  Quote Hrvoje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/Jul/2009 at 8:38am
Originally posted by JPDX10

 
Note: I says on the website of hobbycity.com that it requires 150A ESC but does the "80-100-A" on the motor name mean it takes 80A to 100A?? I am confused.



Those numbers have nothing with the current draw. That are outer dimensions of the motor. I doubt that this motor can stand 150 A for more than few second (with good cooling), and that is not the case in scooters. Miljenko tested similar motor (HXT 80-80) few lost forums ago, and I discuss test results with him. He was slightly disappointed, and mailed Anthony with suggestion what to do to improve efficiency. I guess this is improved version, but as Ron said, never push any electric/electronic device more then 80% of rated capacity.

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JelleB View Drop Down
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Posts: 130 		  Quote JelleB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/Jul/2009 at 4:08am
JP,
it seems to me you are trying to let us decide/design your electrical system. I'd say the electrical system of an electric  scooter is one of the main parts. If you want to design and build one, maybe it is smarter to gather the knowledge to decide for yourself, instead of relying on strangers to do your design work? I do not want to discourage you, but I get the impression you lack that electrical knowledge.

As for your choices: yes the HV one should be able to deliver more power with better efficiency. But make sure your motor can handle this power load. If you double the voltage, you will quadruple the power that goes in. If your motor cannot handle that, it will come out with the magic smoke. To handle 1000 Watt, I would expect your motor to weigh 300-500 grams. Anything below that will need special tricks to force extra cooling over it.

As for torque: that does not mean too much if you don't know the gearing too. A low kV motor will have more torque available at lower speeds, but have a slower top speed for a given voltage. But you can adapt to that with a higher gearing, or increasing the voltage. So you see there are plenty of parameters to decide on, and plenty ways to fsck thinks up. Personally, I would build the controller myself, to make one that is current controlled, instead of the regular voltage free-running control.that would give you more certainty about the power input to the motor, and less chance to let out the magic smoke.

Originally posted by JPDX10

Last question:

Should I use the

1) “Turnigy Marine 180A Brushless Boat ESC" should I use the

2) “Turnigy K-Force 150A OPTO 2-6S Brushless ESC” or

3) “Turnigy K-Force 120A-HV OPTO 5-12S Brushless ESC”?

 

AND

 

Is it better with the last ESC so I can put 43.2V (36 Cells Ni-Mh) to get the most power from the motor?

 
Thanks, :D
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Posts: 21 		  Quote JPDX10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Jul/2009 at 1:27pm
Ok. Thanks for all the information on the is motor and how the ESC exactly works.
 
 
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Posts: 21 		  Quote JPDX10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Jul/2009 at 1:30pm
Thank you, especially Ron!
 
Now how do I close this thread/topic
 
:D
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W3FJW Ron View Drop Down
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Posts: 9067 		  Quote W3FJW Ron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Jul/2009 at 1:45pm
No need to close it. The thread will slowly sink to the bottom of the forum unless someone comes along and bumps it back up.
Good luck with your project.
Best Regards
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I used to walk on water 'til I found out it was more fun sitting in the boat drinking beer

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helikaren View Drop Down
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Posts: 12 		  Quote helikaren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22/Jul/2009 at 11:21am
I've done this mod with a Piagggio mo-ped. You can find notes on my conversion (which used the aforementioned Turnigy motor) here:

www.gpsy.com/ev
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Gramse View Drop Down
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Posts: 10 		  Quote Gramse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/Aug/2009 at 8:08pm
Originally posted by helikaren

I've done this mod with a Piagggio mo-ped. You can find notes on my conversion (which used the aforementioned Turnigy motor) here:

www.gpsy.com/ev
 
I really like your project!!!
keep up the great work.
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Posts: 28 		  Quote liveforphysics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/Aug/2009 at 9:54am
500-1000w will make for a very weak scooter.  If you are planning to use it on public roads, I would shoot for at least 5,000w.

For an ESC, nothing hobby king offers works well.  The HV K-force is the only one that manages to hold sync decently with a loaded up 12pole motor, but they seem to pop in about 1minute of continous 100amp use.   The 140amp version is the same thing, they just finished populating the board with an additional 6 fets, and they take an additional 10-20seconds to fail.  

You need a large gear reduction, around 1:10 is a good place to start.  That means you definately want the lowest KV wind you can get.  Even the 130KV wind makes setting up the gearing a PITA.  

I recomend taking the motor apart to change bearings, and to replace the 12mm shaft with something hardened.  I used 4340 stress-proof.  While the motor is apart, it's tough to do, but it really pays off if you do it.  Wiggle and pry the windings apart where they joined them in delta.  Pair the 6 wires into a Wye termination, and now you will only need a 1:6 reduction rather than a 1:10.  Since a 9-tooth sprocket is about as small as you want to go to avoid chordial chain losses, this means you only have to find a 54tooth rear sprocket rather than fitting a monster 90tooth.  

I run a pair of these motors on my E-bike, with a 20s 40Ah LiPo pack.  It took me a lot of work (and a few thousand bucks) to build custom controllers that holds up ok, and even now, I've still had a few controller failures.

If you want to make life so much easier on yourself, start out by mounting hall effect sensors inside the motors so you can just use E-bike motor controllers.  I recomend the infinion type, and swap out the FETs for IRFP4110, and add as much low ESR cap as you can fit into the case. 

Best Wishes,
-Luke
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Posts: 28 		  Quote liveforphysics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/Aug/2009 at 9:56am
There is a guy making some slick throttle input controllers for RC controllers to be used on bikes.  They have currenting limiting, as well as 3 thermistors you can stick onto things, and it will cut back power if something starts to overheat.  They are usb programable.  It gives an RC controller half a shot at life.

He is selling them for $100 on the e-bike forum endless-sphere.
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Posts: 21 		  Quote JPDX10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18/Aug/2009 at 12:09pm
Hey, thanks for your help guys.
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