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Trooper - 4WD Short Course Truck

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Strange1 View Drop Down
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/Apr/2012 at 6:12pm
So my next problem is.... they seem very soft. Ive adjusted the spring all the way down but when I corner tight the car sinks onto the outside rear wheel and then the other 3 come off the ground.
Should I change the shock oil to something thicker? Reposition the shocks to a different mount hole?

Edited by Strange1 - 03/Apr/2012 at 6:13pm
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Brett View Drop Down
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  Quote Brett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/Apr/2012 at 6:59pm
Thanks for the pics, looks like thats the only option short of adding the spare cone to the top to get the clearance.

Too soft? I'd say up the spring tension. If that's not enough try 50 weight oil.

They look a decent upgrade to the plastic ones at least. Still waiting the next batch to come in.
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/Apr/2012 at 7:03pm
Thanks Brett.

I used to have the stock shocks screwed down around half way and that seemed pretty good. Ive got these screwed all the way down to the bottom already.

I'll try some 50 weight oil then :)
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  Quote Brett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/Apr/2012 at 7:29pm
For anyones that interested, my Brother & I got the opportunity to try the Hobbyking Sensor/Sensorless 60Amp Car ESC in our Troopers. Both units performed terrible. Stuttered starts and shutting down after a minute running.

However, note these were run in stock form as they cannot be programmed with the TX and the programming cards were out of stock. Maybe re-programmed they would be fine, perhaps they are defaulted to Sensor mode or something. Would be interested to hear from someone thats run them.

I'd have to say, now that I own several of them, the Tunigy (Hobbywing) 60A ESC is by far the best ESC of all I have tried. They have really soaked up some abuse and the 4 I have (2 in the Troopers, 2 in the QRF-400s) have never had a single issue.
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2012 at 1:46pm
Ive got the HobbyKing 60A Brushless Car ESC but havn't used it yet and I have had no problems with the stock 35A ESC.
Most of my running has been on grass (including some long spongy stuff) and I havn't had it shut down on me yet.

What I will do is keep a list here of parts I break as I know when I was looking at getting some spares I was wondering what other people had replaced.

First run out I broke the lower suspension arm, it was flat stick into the corner of the retaining wall and the front wheel took all the force. I was amazed nothing else was broken so I guess it did its job!

Since then I've run 7 - 8 5000Mah 3S packs through it until today I ran into some trouble (Literally). I bent both front lower pins and stripped the thread out of one of the front bulk heads, taking the pins out I mangled one of the e-clips but that's because I'm ham fisted!
It wasn't easy doing that much damage, I came flying down the driveway, slid off course and instead of running onto the grass I skimmed across an edging log. It hit hard enough that it pushed up the front bumper and the aluminium base plate took a slice out of the log and jammed it under the bulkhead.

Anyway I will update here next time I stuff up!
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  Quote Brett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2012 at 5:09pm
yeah the Quik-60A is a good ESC no issues yet either. I haven't pushed it hard enough to say how it goes as I am now running it in a 10th scale Crawler as I liked the forward/reverse option with no brake stop in between.

you're not having enough fun with the Trooper unless your breaking something    I did something similar by hitting a concrete garden edge corner and the alloy undertray chipped a big piece of concrete out. One font wheel ended up in the middle of the cab inside.
Had to replace the entire front corner but surprisingly the main chassis was servicable.

I am now well versed at pulling a corner off the truck for re-servicing suspension arms, dog bones, diffs and bearings. You can seperate the whole corner in one piece by un-doing the bulkhead on the right (not necessarily the right side of the truck). You don't have to remove the arm pivot pins, just undo the alloy cross arm.

By taking one set of arms off you can replace most of the drive train on both sides. I agree about the fiddly e-clip, I have a special needle nose pliers for that and a bag of spares for when they disappear across the workshop.

What 5000mAh 3S packs did you get to fit in?
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/Apr/2012 at 6:02pm
These ones fit nicely, and These ones fit if you are dodgy :D
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/Apr/2012 at 11:22am
Well I've had a play around with it this morning and, after reading around, decided to pack out the knuckles...

What a difference! All the crazy wild slop is gone from the wheels, the only play left in them is in the bearings.
Also when I was taking the wheels off I found out that both rear wheels had been screwed on without locating onto the hubs blargh! So I don't know if its worth checking on anyone elses :)

I also read that someone removed the play out of the left hand steering post by adding a bearing to the bottom of the shaft. I'm waiting for my alloy upgrade version to be sent (When it come back in stock) to see if that fixes the problem, otherwise I'll try and modify the stock one.
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  Quote huymap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/Apr/2012 at 10:39pm
you can up clip videos runing trophy
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  Quote Strange1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/May/2012 at 4:25pm
So I received my aluminium steering setup and it has a lot of slop in it just like the plastic one.



As you can see there is a big gap in the housing around the pin, so I ordered some bearings to fit, slightly drilled out the housing and fitted one.



So now all the play in the servo links has gone from the front right hand wheel :)
These pics are of the plastic one, but I will do the same to the aluminium one when I go to use it.

If anyone is interested the bearings are 5mm ID 8mm OD 2.5mm thick traxxas bearings.
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