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HK Quadcopter - How To
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SargeNZ View Drop Down
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Posts: 55 		  Quote SargeNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28/May/2011 at 6:55am
Multirotor stability refers to the ability of the motors/ESC to quickly change RPM. It's a combination of a high update rate on the controller board, esc's that can handle it with a high resolution and motors that have enough torque to alter the RPM of the props quickly. Also, the less mass the props have, the more quickly the motors can change their speed.

In general, use the Lowest kv motors and the smallest props you can get away with for the load you are carrying. You need to be able to hover between 30% and 60% throttle. The lower the kv of your motors, the less the rpm changes with the signal, effectively giving you a higher resolution.
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totovz View Drop Down
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Posts: 15 		  Quote totovz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28/May/2011 at 1:49pm
I use 2205 1400kv motor and I can say that the best of my observation.
I tried them a lot, but I'm staying on this.
Propellers which use the 8x4.
Currently starting work on the quad.
With trikopter am very pleased and has a very high stability.
Wheelbase is 80cm and as such was very nervous and has a lot of power.
As for HK Quadrocopter: looks good and not expensive, but I think it is very fragile.
It is better to do than carbon or wood.
Aluminium is the only good show when arms are shorter because they transmit vibrations and interference in gyroskop.
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coptor View Drop Down
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Posts: 848 		  Quote coptor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28/May/2011 at 3:57pm
Originally posted by totovz

I use 2205 1400kv motor and I can say that the best of my observation.
I tried them a lot, but I'm staying on this.
Propellers which use the 8x4.
Currently starting work on the quad.
With trikopter am very pleased and has a very high stability.
Wheelbase is 80cm and as such was very nervous and has a lot of power.
As for HK Quadrocopter: looks good and not expensive, but I think it is very fragile.
It is better to do than carbon or wood.
Aluminium is the only good show when arms are shorter because they transmit vibrations and interference in gyroskop.


The wood can be easily repaired with PVA glue.

Get Titebond.. bonds stronger than the original wood that is unbroken.

It will never break in the same place ever after using PVA or Titebond original.
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spitfire2010 View Drop Down
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Posts: 3290 		  Quote spitfire2010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28/May/2011 at 4:03pm
Interesting that google has picked up with thread and made it number one for

"hobbyking quad copter controller board"
The MAAA can end aero-modelling apartheid Today! They think you're stupid and won't notice MOP057
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ozfly View Drop Down
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Posts: 3 		  Quote ozfly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18/Jun/2011 at 11:06am
Just wondering if anyone can help me out here ...... I have a HC KK board and frame. I have got to the point where I calibrated the motors via the board (yaw pot to zero, throttle up on Tx etx) and all that went well. However, if I then plug in the rudder lead from the Rx into the board, it fails to arm. Without it, it arms fine and motors and aileron & elevator work as they should. Any helpful suggestions would be welcome :)
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PierHenri62 View Drop Down
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Posts: 240 		  Quote PierHenri62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18/Jun/2011 at 3:00pm
1)have a look at your ends of course: they must be set to the max.
2)verify that there is only ONE bec plugged into the PLUS
3)verify your plugs, and ...their direction (do not inverse, lol!)
Don't smile, i've done that! Glup!
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ozfly View Drop Down
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Posts: 3 		  Quote ozfly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18/Jun/2011 at 3:09pm
Thanks for getting back to me .... areyou saying only one Esc supplies power ? I thought they were in parallel on the KK board. End points are all at max and cables are all correct. All works well if I don't connect rudder wire :(
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grits View Drop Down
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Posts: 55 		  Quote grits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Jun/2011 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by ozfly

Thanks for getting back to me .... areyou saying only one Esc supplies power ? I thought they were in parallel on the KK board. End points are all at max and cables are all correct. All works well if I don't connect rudder wire :(


I don't get it, how do you arm it without the rudder channel given that it is the rudder that does the arming? That's how mine is anyway.

Did you reset the yaw gain pot to a non zero figure after calibrating?

Re escs, I have all three still connected on my tri and it seems fine.


Edited by grits - 21/Jun/2011 at 7:25pm
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spitfire2010 View Drop Down
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Posts: 3290 		  Quote spitfire2010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Jun/2011 at 7:50pm
I'm only running one esc. They will fight each other anyway and burning is always the result. Not straight away but soon enough.
The MAAA can end aero-modelling apartheid Today! They think you're stupid and won't notice MOP057
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PierHenri62 View Drop Down
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Posts: 240 		  Quote PierHenri62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21/Jun/2011 at 10:44pm
Yes, be carefull with the esc: only one bec is powering the KK board, and Rx, NOT the four....because fire is in vue, he!
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