Recommended tools: 2mm drill, small Philis head screwdriver, sharp hobby knife -and Patience.
The bag, it arrives in. -damm its small, i like it already
The two bags, one containing GFK part and one with bearings, ball links and push rods.
OK, lets begin.
1: Find a SIDE GFK-part, and 1 screw, 1 ball. -gently take a sharp
knife, or a drill, and ream out the hole a bit (mine did not fit perfectly, but extremely close).
Screw it together, so it looks like this.
2: Find the TILT GFK-part,
take your hobby knife and scrape all 4 sides of the tap X 2 (both
sides) - do this so the ball bearings fits perfectly without to much
force. Forcing it to much will make the ball bearing press on the balls, making it rotate in a jerking way.
Scrape by scape, easy on it, this will make your PAN TILT all worth it. The ball bearings has a flange on them, it has to go on the Inside facing the TILT plate.
3: BASE GFK part, screw in the two 2mm screws, take the servo horn, mark what holes you need to expand (use a 2mm drill).
Screw the screws back out again, and mount the Horn so that the round
part goes inside the hole in the BASE GFK part. Remember to counter
rotate the screws, until you hear and feel them click, in the treads you
made first time you screwed the in. (look at next picture to see it)
4: mount the SIDEs on the BASE, remember the BALL LINK has to go on the Outside.
And the other SIDE
5: TILT plate, gently ease it in, or take one of the SIDEs of again.
6: TILT end-locks GFK. Grab a hold of the TILT GFK plate, and press the "locks" on to the ends. (this pic. shows the ends and the "locks")
It should look like this.
AND now to make it perfect.
7: Align it all up, lay the frame on a flat table, press down the corners where the BASE and SIDEs meet, so they are flush.
8: Secure with small drops of CA at the follow points, DONT use accelerator close to the bearings !!!. END "Locks" BASE AND SIDEs SCREWS at the point where it "exits" the GFK, (servo horn and Tilt ball)
Mount your preferred servos, notice that the TILT servo has to be aligned so the arm moves freely, and the Push rod is strait up/down.
Here is some more pictures
And the final one, and if you already are wondering about the straw sitting on the TILT plate, yes it has a function, JUST WAIT
FINALLY, one the servo horn placement. Resolution it the key, the closer you can get to the center of the horn
the better (and still get the throw/movement you want). I
would go for realistic "head" movement, over a crazy 180º in every
direction, thats about 65-70º to each side, and 45-55º up, and down
30-40º. Remember your CAM has the extra width. Lets say you got a lens covering 90º (half i is 45º). Look to the side will give you 65+45º=110º visibility, UP would be 45+45º=90º visibility. -and believe me that's all you really need for flying a real 1:1 glider/sail plane.
This is why (the straw), its far easier to see it in motion.
I really do hope this help you out. -your welcome to ask questions, and i will ad it to this manual.
these were my first impressions: WOW, that's small, and very stiff (i am impressed,
if is should have made this, with skills (i have got them), it would have taken me hours,
and to that price NO way would i have done it better NOR cheaper, and if i did it, it
would not have been this small)
? where the hell are the
instructions on how to put it together, -Here you are, from me to
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