A true cold war warrior, the Mig 15 was produced in greater numbers than any jet fighter in history, it is a true classic with good reason, and this amazing EPO Plug N Fly model really does this amazing aircraft justice.
Being PNF it is a fast build, the powerful EDF unit/ESC combo is pre-installed as are all the servos. This model is a good size and needs a 4s Lipoly to achieve the kind of performance you are looking for, also for a nice change in this class, the Lipoly compartment has been designed to take a large pack for decent flight times.
As well as being a superb looking and performing model, this Mig packed with features such as pre-installed electric retracts with scale looking under-carriage legs, magnetic drop tanks, flaps are again pre-installed as are the airbrakes which you can either set up on a seperate channel or connect to extend with your flaps, in fact this tough EPO jet only needs one thing......an F-86 from this new range of cold war classics to dogfight with!
Specs: Wingspan: 1100mm Length: 1118mm Flying Weight: 1600g EDF: 70mm with 2836kv 2770 Outrunner Brushless Motor ESC: 45A Servo: 9g x 10 6~7 Channel (throttle, elevator, aileron, rudder/steering, retracts, flaps/airbrake
Includes: All Hardware Instruction Book Glue
Requires: Your Own TX/RX minimum 6 Channel 3200mAh 4s Lipoly Battery
So I bit the bullet and just hooked up a 6S to the stock esc ( I think it was a topflight?), it just started beeping as if the bec was not connected. The alerions and other bits worked but no motor. I plugged a 4S back in and everything returned to normal so there must be some voltage over pertection. So I have installed a Trust 55amp unit in her.
even if the stock esc can handle 6s, dont assume it can auto recognize the different cell count. for some esc's, u need to re program it to recognize the different cell count. fyi - its good thing that the esc has over volt protection because even if it had automatic cell count adjustment, u would have probably fried the motor AND esc by just blindly jumping fro, 4s to 6s. do yourself a favor and get a cheap watt meter!
I have an exceed rc 70mm mig-15, thinking abou t installing flap. Can you guys share about how the instruction of this model regarding how elevator is mixed with flap? how much flap travel and elevator travel is suggested?
Ele-Flap mix on any good radio, however you are better off with pure flap, she will pitch when you lower flaps, what you need is a flap to elev mix for some nose down, though you can re-trim it no issues
I have the HK 10 blade with the stock esc with the HK Turnigy L2855-2100 EDF Outrunner (900w) 4S 3300 65-130c. In this setup it was well under powered to the extend that I could not takeoff without a head wind ( not too bad in the air). Previously I had the NTM Prop Drive 28-36 3000KV / 755W which tookoff and flew great but it could not handle the pressure and after 2 flights I retired it. At this point I am about to change over to 6S with an upgrade to a Trust 55amp esc which can handle 6S. The L2855-2100 is also rated for 6S so I am going to start by putting two 3S batteries in series as a test.
The L2855-2100kv will do very well on 6S. I am surprise you got it to fly on 4S. It produces around 1Kg of thrust on 4S.
Make sure you cut the cheater hole grid to open it up. It makes a hell of a difference.
Thanks for the advice, do you know if the stock esc and bec can handle 6s ? I have a trust 55 esc coming but im not sure it will be here by the weekend and i dont really want to pull it out of one of my others.
Might just have to plug it in and bench test it.
na , it will be right , more volts = less amps , my original setup was pushing 1150 watts on 4s with the stock 45 amp esc. 1150 watts divide by 16 volts equals 71 amps. On the new setup if I require the same watts it will be 1150 divide by 22 equals 52 amps. I believe that it should general less heat at the motor as well due to a lower amp draw. At least that is how I understand the maths of it.
Actually, the more volts you have the faster the motor wants to spin. The more the rpm the more load on the motor thus more amps.
The 2100kv, if your 6S battery can hold 22Volts, will generate 1300watts at 60amps. This is what my tests showed with the CS10. If your battery can't hold 22volts, then the rpm and amps will be lower.
Yes, but don't forget that very few batteries under a 75amp load will hold 16volts for more than a few seconds, which is the resting voltage really. Most of mine will hold around 14.5 - 14.8 volts which is considered an OK performance under load.
its worth noting the relationship of kV. that is the more volts, the higher the rpm and therefore more watts and more amps. if u use the same motor adding more cells will not keep the watts the same!!!! so yes, 1000watts at 10v = 100amps and 1000watt at 20v = 50amps. but if u want to keep the same watts, u have to use a lower kv motor!!!! is in reality if u increase volts using the same motor, u will also increase amps. going from 4s to 6s will skyrocket watts because u are increasing volts AND amps at the same time. but ben, know u know from your real life test that simply going from a 4s to a 6s using the same motor u got a crazy increase from 500watts to 1200watts!! did u really think that going from 4s to 6s u were going to keep the same watts at 500 and your amps would go down????
ben.....another thing is that going from 34a draw on 4s to 52a on 6s using the same capacity batt will also reduce your run times to 65%. that is if u went from a 4s 3300 to 6s 3300, u will get only 65% run time. BUT u most likely have to use a smaller 6s. maybe u used 2 x 3s 2200mah for a 6s 2200mah? then u will probably have less than 2min flight times.
So the L2855 has smoked up within the first 30 seconds of its 5th flight. A bit disappointing but I will return it and get another as it might have just been a faulty motor. The other option is to install a 90 mm fan that I have sitting around idle.
I think it depends on the runway surface. On grass or rough field ...YES, it needs flaps. On smoother surfaces be prepared for higher landing speeds and don't let her stall. OF course, roll-out will be longer.
BJ i had that pr too, but i didn't buy plane at HobbyKing, :/
This was a superb plane exsept for the paint scheim the covering was pealing on one side and had huge are pockets and at the back edge of the wings where it joins on the fusalage it had the bare wite foam showing but other wize a great plane and will be taking it out for a flight if the fridged canadian weather lifts.
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I agree with RedMax concerning quality of this bird but, if you want much better performance exchange the motor for a 3700kv and install a thrust tube. You will unleash real jet-like performance.
1st impressions, looks good. Yet to put together and fly though
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Ok, so I have spent months getting this plane flying decently. I tried 4s but its struggled to get off the ground on a 70 meter runway with a headwind. I changed it up to the 10 blade with and it did not really help even with a better esc ( the stock does not do s6). I then went to 6s with the l2855 but this motor burned out with a streak of black smoke after about 4 flights. It seamed to struggle with it a bit. I swapped up to a 1200 watt motor which made it better and a bit more fly able but after about 3 flights that motor has died as well. I am able to install a 90 mm fan on 6s to see if this fixed some of the issues but it is going to be a bit of work.
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Finally got this one performing, check out my video on the videos page. Its was allot of work and a few hard earned dollars as well.