If you like our giant L-4 but dont have the car space or flying space to own one, this tough EPO Plug N Fly model is ideal for you. This model is a nice but managable size and is packed with amazing scale detail, it is even pre-weathered!
Plug N Fly of course means quick assembly and almost every component is attached by screws, including the 2 wing halves, even the tailplane can be removed for transportation if desired. All servos are pre-installed as is the ESC & powerful Brushless Motor. This model is ideal for RC pilots of all ability and it is not often that a geniuine scale model can be flown by relative beginners. The scale detail is quite amazing, plastic injection moulded parts are used extensively and include the dummy engine, wing struts and and the dummy bungee under-carriage.
Practical features include the linked steerable tailwheel, large magnetic battery hatch, construction of course from tough & easy to repair EPO foam, large "Cub" wheels with rubber tyres and 4s power for guaranteed performance.....a fantastic looking model on the ground and in the air.
Current draw at full throttle static = 45amps. 50% throttle = 8.5 amps. 30% throttle = 5 amps. The ESC is undersized for the motor/prop combination if you fly at full throttle. Probably barely enough power left for the servos. The motor for this plane is very efficient. The plane itself does not have enough wing area to be a long range flier.
I can fit a zippy compact 4S 5000mah. It fits very snugly though just in front of the finger slot of door at bottom. You need to reroute the power supply for the ESC through the canopy and back through the servo lead hole. The extra wires makes the battery not fit. The opening must be free of any obstruction to get the ZIppy 5000 mah 4S to fit. The plane easily handles the weight though. This design can carry massive payloads. Easily 50% of the plane's total weight.
Well model was a reasonable build if you have done foamies like this before. Wing bolts would not fit but nut fell out and I found that bolts and nuts were different threads!! Bought some M4 nuts and bolts and they worked ok, nuts are a neat fit in their socket. Undercarriage looks a bit iffy so have put some cyano in the main slot to hold the wire in. Left off wires and springs for tail rigging, will use fishing line and crimps which makes a neat job. Went to fly on a nice calm day and argh! could not get radio to bind. Had tried it at home with only one aileron connected and worked ok, connect all servos and nothing works. Club members suggested that the ESC/Bec was not up to the job of handling 4 cell 2200. Cut the power lead and used a 4.8 battery for the receiver, all worked ok. Have not got a rx battery that fits yet, so flight tests delayed. In the instructions it mentions 3 cell and 4 cell versions, info on model here says 4 cell :(
As you quoted a few store still have them ..please tell i have been to nitrotek do you know of others ????????? ps as quoted below in prior discussions ...
ps.did order from nitrotek today and has been shipped ,,but i suggest first flyers to brace across landing gear with fuse wire and leave spings and cross arms off until you perfect your landing,,,,,
Do you have to use a liberal amount ie cover 90% of the surface to be seated ? Do you have to loosen the control surface hinges much ? Are the servos ok ? Is this the equivalent of a "basher" in the car world ?
Hi Andrew just use lightly as it kst need to hold, if some mode need to be changed or replace anything then also need to take it out so consider that without damaging fuselage... You don't have to loosen the hinges as just bend up down for couple of time that's it... Make sure all surfaces are level ...
gday had a bit of a rough landing with my grass hopper maiden went well and decided to risk a 2nd flight as a result i bent my prop shaft is there a way of replacing it of do i need a new motor? and if that wasnt bad enough i ***ped the front door with my rudder and ripped it right off there was quite a few f words that day can i easily hinge the rudder id like to keep this model tape free unlike my bixler which is 30% tape 50% epoxy haha
HK stock replacement shafts. you need to remove yours, measure it with calipers and look for a close replacement. motors are't too expensive if replacing is required. for hinges look into a CA hinge. there easy, strong and look great. a pin hinge would also work.
Replacing the prop adapter should not be an issue. you just need to measure the diameter of the motor shaft with calipers. Or just take your motor to a local hobby shop and they'll get you what you need.
I have purchased/owned two of these J3 Cub's with the army paint, the first I flew until the wheels fell off, well meaning it had 100 flights and was getting rough, so purchased a second for my son to learn with, the story goes*
Immediately replace the 45amp ESC with a 60amp, the 45amp supplied is under powered.
A 4S 2200 lipo is OK but I have managed to fit in a 4S 2450 Zippy Compact which gives an easy 12 minutes flight time.
I buddy boxed this with my son (10 yrs old) and after 50 hours on the sim he s already making taking off's as well as taking over mid flights with the buddy box.
This plane is ideal for learners and awesome fun for the advanced, what an excellent buy, you just cant beat the value!
The only down fall is that there is two (2) missing springs for the under carriage (they supply two little wires in place of these springs, god knows why), and the ESC being useless at 45amp. Having to buy a 60amp still makes it a cheap settup though.
Thanks for the warning about the esc Tony, I've added an extra bec because my receiver started flashing every time I operated 2 servos i.e. ailerons. One of the servos started twitching eratically, so I tested 2 more pairs, same result. The added bec cures this problem but I'm not convinced the motor won't pull more than the esc can handle. One concern I do have is that all my other esc's have much shorter cables to the battery. I'd need to extend the wires on a replacement esc, but are there any problems doing this? I got the metal rods instead of springs for the tail wheel steering, but they are too long, unless I put a v bend in them. I'm hunting down old pens because I've read that the springs in them will do the job.
DownUnder, Tony here from Hervey Bay Qld. Mate I use a 2200 as well as a Zippy Compact 2450 which is a little tight but does fit if you tuck the wires properly. Also put a 60amp ESC in and you will have realistic power..
Michael, when you fit the wing dont use screws to attach the fuselage to wing supports, use little body clips like you see on RC cars, as these simply unclip the wing to supports then you just have one screw on top of the fuselage/cabin.
Michael I have the same problem, I havent flown the plane yet. all i have done is joined both wings and when i get to flying field bolt wings on and connect the bottom of the wing struts to the undercarriage just be carefull not to tighten too hard as it may eventually loose strength
I don't know anything about glow engines but I can tell you this. The motor plate is a weak one in wood that is glued in to the foam. There is no place to put a tank in or whatever. If you would convert this plane you would have to modify everything yourself and I don't think it would be worth it, but that's just my oppinion :) Good luck whatever you do!
SPARE PARTS ,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS
SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS,SPARE PARTS..IF ONLY PEOPLE LISTENED TO THE CONSUMER..
The Cub flies great (scale) at about i/2 throttle. Full throttle with a 4S 2200 lipo will make it zip right along. Large loops (round not teardrop shaped) are easily possible. Inverted flight is no problem. I've mounted a keychain camera on the wing with velcro and recorded some good video, so it's stable. The highest wind I've flown it in was about 12-15 MPH and it was easily manageable. Remember it's a taildragger so be ready with rudder on takeoff.
This plane is actually pretty fast for a high wing. I changed my prop to a 12 x 7. This helped me control cruzing speed very well. I mostly fly at about 40 to 50% throttle. Take off happens in abou 10 feet and it climbs out without any hesitation.
I get them from my local hobby store but if you look up "xoar" props on line you can find them on line. Hobby king does sell apc props and they work very well too. Try an APC prop, you will be pretty happy with it. I use the xoar prop mostly because of loos and I never need to balance them right out of the package.
My kit came with a set of hinges, does anyone know if the control surfaces need to be cut off and hinges installed, or do you just fly it the way it came? The instructions (tiny pictures) do not say anything about the hinges.
if you want to stick to scale, the L4 had no flaps...a reason why her nickname was grasshopper: approaching in final and not being at the required speed => you were landing like...a grasshopper ! Wings profile and surface are designed to avoid flaps, same on the HK model. Appproach, flare, touch on 3 points!
The instruction manual is an old one: Some more instructions for next customers. Hope next time HK will put an add on inside with new photos and instructions 1-For the front landing gear you have 4 springs now instead of 2. The spring 0.5x8.0x24.8mm are for the top of the landing gear, the 0.5x5.0x40mm are for the bottom. the plastic part (as "X" before)at the center of the landing gear should have its 2 plastics arms to the top. Be careful to the 2 plastic arms which are glue to the dam board. You ve got a right and a left one. just check before glue that the arms are the most straight from the bottom to the top where you are going to put springs. 2-For the vertical tail(page 7 §*2.3) you have to install control horn on the left side with the steering holder before screwing 3- For the main wings (page 8 §*3.3)don't forget to put plastic transparent part between left and right wings (figure §*3.3b) before insert reinforcing rod. Not sure that we have to glue the wings together perhaps it will be better to do it 4-For the rear landing gear :The 2 springs for the rear landing gear (page 7 §*2.8)have been replaced by 2 steel wire(tail gear wire 0x43mm). HK should put an add in the instruction manual with photos of this part and for the front landing gear That's all folks!! Enjoy yourself Marty from France
I'm having trouble trying to reverse the Servo's that control the rear Horizontal and Vertical stabilizers. They are currently set to inverted which is going to end badly for me as my small training plane is the standard and that is what I am used to. Also, the old version of the instructions is included with the plane and there is no springs for the rear steering wheel. Please fix that for future customers, it was rather confusing and for non mechanical minded people it may be a very bad review.
Any help would be greatly appreciated with my Servo frustration.
Ps: The beast just fits in my car, be wary with this plane as it does not unbolt easily for transport and storage.
You can reverse the servos on your transmitter. If your transmitter does not have that function you can open the servos and switch places on the wires to the servo motor, that way the servo will spin the other way :)
The instruction manual is an old one: Some more instructions for next customers. Hope next time HK will put an add on inside with new photos and instructions 1-For the front landing gear you have 4 springs now instead of 2. The spring 0.5x8.0x24.8mm are for the top of the landing gear, the 0.5x5.0x40mm are for the bottom. the plastic part (as "X" before)at the center of the landing gear should have its 2 plastics arms to the top. Be careful to the 2 plastic arms which are glue to the dam boa
Is there a way to get spare parts? This is my first plane and my day didn't go too well. My first problem is that the tail wheel springs weren't included, which I didn't think was a problem. It was a big problem, as the plane would do circles on the runway. I managed to tear up the propeller tips when the plane circled and tilted against the asphalt pavement.
I didn't want to give up, so I resorted to hand launching and then destroyed my landing gear when I realized that my elevator servo needed reversing on my transmitter!
Finally, my nose seems to have broken from the front of the fuselage. I'm not sure of the extend of damage there, but I may need a spare part there, too!
Though high on scale, some parts were missing. Namely another set of springs for the rudder steering assembly, the plastic wing sunroof/wing joiner cavity reinforcement brace box, the plastic wing slot piece that enables the wing to neatly fit into the windscreen which now means the wing is glued permanantly in position ! The battery box is an extremely tight fit for a 2200 4S LiPo so heaven knows how cooling goes ??? The battery lid needs the battery foam retainer beneath trimmed off completely and I substituted two rare-earth magnets to hold in place.
I dont mean to be picky as StarMax have otherwise done a great job in so far as a easy to assemble awesome scale kit goes taking only a few hours but these few niggling things make for a frustrating build in places. Have not yet flown, but figure on a decent 4S it should tonk, which means nice easy lengthy scale flights at half or above throttle.
I dont hold out much hope for the flimsy scale-look under cart bungy set up but looks ok given even that had parts missing so had to improvise with 1mm 1 inch long rod lengths to make up for where springs should be provided ...GRRRRR ;-( Anyway I give this only 2 stars in overall rating 5 remaining stars for value & quality
Defenitely a buyer for the price if you dont mind spending extra time scrounging for left-out bits !
No comments. Reply..
This plane took off from grass runway easily. It's powerful however the wheel plastic nut cannot last the weight of this plane and cracked. With the battery it is heavy and also it is real big, abit difficult to squeeze into my car.
The plane is not grounded because there is no plastic nut to hold the wheel. It cannot be hand launch. Look forward to fly it again.
No comments. Reply..
Ok boys, here's the latest on maiden & post maiden flights...
AWESOME is all I can really describe the flying manners of this ol bear.
It commands many encouraging comments from the fellow clubbies esp the older cheese.
One thing if I may proffer... GO HIGH RATES on Elevator & Aileron especially in gusty conditions. He is a doughy plodder which is what half the fun of flying it is about, BUT, be very careful when slow & low to the ground in gusty conditions...Had it not been for large surface throws on the wings & tail I would have been cart-wheeling & not for joy either !
No problems with battery heat issues either as voiced concerns in an earlier post but note its still a tight fit.
Beyond that, I think the bunjey scale springs etc...are all a bit of a joke so I have done away with that stock gear set up, epoxied a piece of 2mm ply in place and afixed pre-bent alloy gear, re-fixed the green triangle plastic gear sheilds in place and now flying with 'Tundra' type air filled Dubro 3" tyres & its almost an all-terrain Alaskan mountain goaty ;-)
In closing. Whats not to like about this L-4 ? Any reasonably competent modeller will have it assembled in a matter of a few hours & flying first thing in the morning. Its camo paint work sometimes provides the odd skip of the heart on short final as it blends into the background of tree's and scrub at the flying field.
1 comment. Reply..
model looks good. manual does not fit to the parts included. Glue was dyed out, had to use my own. Some springs to complete the built up were missing (I had to disassemble my pens). Prop is scratching to the front housing at the nose (bad fit), molded parts needed to be cleaned up with a knife. The price is cheep, the finish level too. once the model is air borne, it's easy to fly. Landing Gear is too weak, you need to re-design. Battery compartment had to be largened by Dremel to fit 3000 3S battery. Plane is not designed to be disassembled for transport. If you need to do that, you have to re-design the wing fitting and the landing gear fitting. Cheep price, cheep design!
No comments. Reply..
* Looks good in details.
* Size is good and will not embarrass you in a club full of .60 class.
* STOL. W/o wind, wheels off the ground in less than 2m.
* Broad speed band. Slow to a jogging speed, fast like you could chase a pylon racer.
* Floats without throttle. Good for beginner. Fun for pros.
* Vertical flight ability. Smooth inverted flights.
* CG is good.
* Flight characteristic is true with no bad habits. 1/2 throttle and it flies straight. Push the the throttle and use a little down elevator to fly fast and straight!
* Roll rate is ok and loops are graceful.
* Visually no effect on a 3-4mph wind gusts during flight. Stable.
* Powerful stock motor and prop.
* Nice clear windows. Add a pilot to look cool!
* Army-green paints are cool. When scratched, it doesn't look that bad because military stuffs always look rugged and dirty! Hahha!
* Landing gears has nothing to secure to the fuselage. Gears fell out almost every landings.
* Bungee is cool for the looks but not practical for flights esp. when landing
* Not easy to differentiate top or belly when in the air because of the color.
* Rudder servo came off during a hard landing. Spring control arms for the tail wheels could have been used to avoid this.
* Suspected issues with the ESC. Drained batteries too fast. 2 of my Lipos got very hot. Had to glide the plane back after 2 mins of flight