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The F4U Corsair is accurately moulded and a true reprisentation of the full sized machine. Attention to detail, 20A powerful brushless system, steerable tail wheel and scale looks are what makes this an excellent foamie. You will find all parts fit together nicely during assembly with tricky and essential items already pre-installed, such as the large brushlessoutrunner and all servos. This kit also comes with a special 3 bladed prop, faithfully modelled on the full size one! This kit is a plug-n-fly kit. You will only need to attach the main wing, insert your own Rx and a 1300mAh battery to be ready to fly!
Dears, what is DAT-700 engine?
There is no DAT-XXX engines available to buy, but there are DT-XXX engines!
For example, hexTronik DT700 Brushless Outrunner 700kv (ID: DT700)
Is it a typo or what?
hi
the motor of my corsair burn in a little crash and now iam looking for the rigth motor and esc upgrade. can any one help me to choce a correct esc for the dt900 motor
thanks
These originally come with a DT-700 motor the DT-750 is a good substitute with just a touch more power and still perfect for a 20amp ESC with 15 Amp max draw. The DT-900 is a real powerhouse but draws over 30 Amp so needs a 40 Amp ESC - I use a turnigy plush 40 Amp ESC for the DT-900
Hi I use the 29g twist and turn units PRODUCT ID: HK-5095
I have done it to 2 now and they fly and look great - best flying foam warbird on this site - mine seems to have a 750kv motor as hangs vertically and draws 15 amp max the standard seems to have less 11 amp draw. Have upgraded another one to a DT900 and 40A speed control and is a lot more powerful but the 30 amp draw shortens battery life.
Hi,which battery are you using for both,and how have you manage to fit the wheels as the retracts are straight? Any chance of posting photos or ví*deos? Thanks
I am using the zippy 1600 20C 3S for the DAT 750 drawing 15 Amps and the Nanotech 1300 25C 3S for the DAT90" drawing 30 Amps. The retracts twist as they go up (straight back) so the wheel hole is through half the wing just behind the mount (hence the carbon fibre) as the units are just on the inside of the gull with the wheels facing outwards there is a slight bend in the leg outwards to keep the track wide which helps the wheel fold into the wing on the underside curve. The wheels are foam narrowed to 15mm wide to save a bit of wing. Will try and post some pics. Oh and I bend the last 10mm of the leg for the axle and bush with brass tube to get the wheel width.
Hi there are two versions of the corsair this is meant to have a 3 bladed prop - has no retracts fitted but I have fitted PRODUCT ID: HK-5095 to 2 now and they look great folding and unfolding. I strengthened the wing with 6mm carbon rods to the units and more 6mm rods threaded each way from the wheel cutout to reinforce the wheel hole.
Anyone who knows what spare part Engine mount that will fit to this plane? I damaged mine in a major havoc some time ago. I asked HK but they had no idea and I cannot find the rigth size anywhere else. Thanks on beforehand. Best regards Peter
Hey guys, iets a Nice plane.
However on the initial flight i had a little crash, nothing a little glue couldnt fix.
However the motor shaft is a little bend. I cant seem to find the replacement shaft, can someone point it out for me?
Hi yeah these are brilliant - I have fitted the twist and turn retracts to mine and it flies and looks amazing. Unfortunately Hobbyking don't sell sPare shafts but they sell spare motors - they are dt700's so try changing the whole motor as they don't cost much or try straightening the shaft.
i recently got this plane as a gift and iam try to fix this ! im new in aeromodelling
while fixing the propeller am finding it difficult to remove the spinner can anybody here guide me please with this ?
Hi raindrops
The spinner is basically a push on item and the motor shaft is threaded so either just pull it straight off or just unscrew (like undoing a nut off a bolt) once you get it off you will see the propellor is attached by a nut at the front and is driven by a nut at the back so you can adjust how far out the propellor is by moving the back nut. The front nut locks against the prop and hence back nut to stop things moving.
Good choice this is a great model - flies like its on rails - not fast but powerful and authoritive - goes where you point it and rock solid at any speed - I have fitted the twist and turn retracts and it is a great looking and flying model.
Yep the 29g twist and turn units fit nicely flush and 2mm forward of the original fixed gear - looks great on takeoff with the wheels turning to fold and can now do dirty passes as well as high speed runs
What sticker is that? Mine came with the Hobbyking sticker and was different markings to the one shown in the pictures so isn't meant to have any stickers on the rudder.
Ah I'm not sure of the exact measurements but I use the zippy 1600 3s 20c battery from here and it is a tight fit with the floor of the battery bay cut out. I also use the 25 -50c turnigy nanotech 1300 3s battery and that fits easily without cutting the floor - I have fitted the twist and turn servo less retracts to it and it looks and flys great
I had this Art-Tech plane from another vendor, I see it sells much cheaper here, now my question before I get it, does this one come with the HK sticker/decal on the rudder? That would be a real shame and a deal breaker for me. I'm no scale nut but come on, such a sticker would be ...
yes it has a Hobbyking**** stiker on the tail about 1.5cm tall and about 7cm long you cant realy see it when your flying and it coms of realy easy with a hair dryer if you really dont want it just be careful not to heat the foam to much.
No unfortunately this one is made of eps foam (weak beer cooler stuff). This is a great flyer though and weighs nothing so impacts are generally pretty harmless.
Agree with Napstr. This is a great durable plane despite it's "beer foam" nature. I was thinking it was EPS instead of EPO. I second it's durability. Also add some clear packing tape under the wingtips (I do this with all my planes), and the runways don't chew up the wing should you dip on landing or takeoff.
Sally just like most of the models Hobby King has a hand in it is a XT60 connector. HK has stated they are going to make the XT60 the standard for NOW! I hope this helps
I have the HK Mustang and this one seems to be simply brilliant in all except for one thing. It's a warbird without controlable rudder! can't understand it in aircarft of this size! is there any preparation for install it? in that case, this is probably the next one in my fleet! :)
Yep it does have a rudder but due to the internal control it can be a bit of an act getting it connected and the hole for the wire is huge giving it a sloppy connection so I used a tube to bush out the control
I bought one, put a Corona 4ch 35 mhz synthesized receiver and have a lot of interference. I tried another receiver already tested and continues to have interference, it's unflyable. Could it be from the ESC ?(i'm a beguinner in the electric flying)
these are standard HK ESC, I have used over 30 different ESC from HK and never had a problem
watch if there is any carbon fiber between your radio and the plane. Never put a ESC lead over or against a CF rod or support piece.
I have had that trouble with alot of the ESC's sold here and it is most common with the synthesised recievers - either use a crystalled reciever (which still can suffer the interference and glitching) or change the ESC to a higher quality item. Interestingly I didn't have any trouble with the one supplied with this aircraft but have had it with other ESC's. I have gone 2.4 GHz now and so far (touch wood) have had none of the issues. I guess another option would be to remove the red wire from the esc and either use a uBEC or seperate battery to power the reciever.
keep looking at this plane as I want to buy it. Trouble is in another 2 to 3 weeks there will be snow. I will hold off and buy this plane in the spring. I wonder if HK will let me buy it from the factory while on tour of the factory?
This is a great aircraft - not particularly fast but flies very stable and will go wherever the nose points - I fly mine on the zippy 1600 mAh 3s lipo with the top removed from the battery bay and the weight taken out - am looking at fitting retracts now!
I fly off grass all the time - take off is no trouble but it can touch it's nose on landing occasionally (especially now as my wheel mounts are loose - just waiting to fit the retracts) Wheels are 2 inch (50mm) and are more than adequate - you only need to ensure they stick forward of the wing a bit.
Yeah I am a bit hesitant about it and probably will put in some wooden rails to hold the units - wheels just sit in a plastic moulding that sits into the foam from the bottom - so far (as in all my foam planes) this system seems to hold up fine
I changed the synthesized receiver for a crystal one and now flies slowly and beautiful. Unfortunately I can confirm that the landing it has a tendency to roll over, broke the engine mount. Can anybody help me findind a replacement in HK? Dind't found it on the engine mounts.
Yeah you need to move the wheels further forward to make it less likely to go on it's nose - the general rule of thumb is if you stand above the model (directly) you should be able to see half of the wheel in front of the wing (i.e. the wheel centre is at the wing leading edge) this model has them back from this in stock setup.
Just a curious question, I had this bird before and I am getting a 2nd one, the last F4U that I bought, came with no extra nylon plastic motor mount, but for the P51D mustang, it came with extra motor mount,....since both were made by Art Tech,...wondered why this is so..unfair?
Yeah just seems to be the way it goes - the spitfire has a really nice detailed pilot yet these just get a seat - seems there is alot of variation between what you get in the varying models even though the manufacturer is the same.
2 Suggestions to Hobby King 1) Consider giving customer the option of ARF kit with no electronics, speed seems to have an adverse effect on quality control, noticed how fast they restock this product recently, but the 2nd F4U I bought...some of the stock servos are really ****! 2) I know how proud you(Hobby King) are of your product, but please if you want to advertise your product, put it on decals and not on the plane directly,...its a warbird afterall, with Hobby King sticker on the rudder,..it just look silly!
Hey I've broken my engine mount, repaired it and it's broken again.
Just wondering what is available as a replacement?
I can't see anything HK offers?
Cheers
Gees that is a shame - I have never had to get under there thankfully but would use a combination of spruce (or cedar or other hardwood) for standoffs and use a peice of 2 - 3mm ply to bolt the engine to.
Hi Jungle
By standoffs I mean spacers to sit the motor off the framing already in the model to move the motor far enough forward to get the prop to clear the plane - the ply would be left as a flat attached to the spruce and the motor would bolt through it.
Is the CG balance?. Any tail heavy problem? I have bought 2 warbird before and both tail heavy. I had to put weight to balance it but it make my plane heavy and harder to land as it not so floaty.
The corsair is the type of aircraft that comes in fast and hard.. tail heavy is a problem for this war bird... slightly nose heavy is the way to go.... remove the gear and hand launch and if field is grass landing will be managable....
This model is far from a handful - and is not tail heavy at all - there is a weight attached just above the battery compartment to help balance things but I have found it not necessary so have removed it. I have flown without the added weight with the 3S zippy 1300 15C batteries and with 3S Zippy 1600 20C batteries and there is absolutely no issues with this bird - can go as slow as you like with no bad habits - and I fly off grass and landings are no problems!
Wheel.. this is normal at this type of aircraft (warbird) but I suggest you to trim a little bit down the nose.. and it will be fine.... its very nice plane to fly...
I know about the weight in front of the cockpit, its funny how some of you mentioned it cause that weight(weights 68g) is hidden and if you leave the weigh where it is and use a 1300mAh 3S batt, you will need to uptrim the elevator a few mm up, which tells me its nose heavy.
The difference between a 1300mAh and a 2200mAh is the same as the added weight. If you remove the weight and the battery cover, you can slide a 2200mAh in and use a thin piece of Velcro, looped around the plastic insert that held the battery cover, to hold the bat in. Flew well balanced first time out. Why carry steel weight when you can carry extra lipo? Next step, bigger ESC and motor, hehe.
got this plane a couple weeks ago, flew it for the first time yesterday...in total i have flown the plane 4 times and now the ESC has already burned out. will hobbyking replace the ESC?
Gees that is a shame - I doubt they will replace it given what others have said about there customer support - which is a shame - the plane flies well though and a replacement is very cheap here so not worth worrying about really!
Bad luck ! I got this plane (it's very good, I even use it for FPV, google "vimeo fpv corsair project"). The esc is normally good, you are just unlucky. You will have to buy another one to replace it. Don't cry, it is not too expensive...
mine arrived with broken fuse and stripped rudder servo after going thru the nightmare of getting the rudder in.replaced the servo eliminated the tail wheel steering ad on first power up speed control shorted at half throttle and caught on fire.replaced it and after trashing the landing gear and 3 blade prop for a 11x4.7 slow fly prop finally have a plane thats enjoyable.stock set up i considered a total loss
Hey, I just received my Corsair and everything is fine, but I noticed the Speed Controller said 2*10A on it. I am assuming that is 2 times 10a but I do not know why it would be written like that. This is a 20A speed controller right?
I just received my corsair and all controls work but there is no throttle response. Followed the calibration instructions in the manual several times. No beeps from esc. I'd like to access the motor to check connections. I can't figure out how to get the cowling off and access the motor. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!
Are you sure your throttle channel is not the wrong way round [like Futaba for instance], the ESC will not arm if it thinks the throttle is up, if the function is the right way round, try pulling your throttle trim right the way back before you start stripping it down.
Hey, I just received my Corsair and everything is fine, but I noticed the Speed Controller said 2*10A on it. I am assuming that is 2 times 10a but I do not know why it would be written like that. This is a 20A speed controller right?
Pull out the plastic motor(flexible) cover by gently squeezing and bending it so that it will not break. Inside you will see the motor, motor mount screwed on and wire connections. The actual COWL is part of the foam fuselage and does not detach.
Had exactly the same problem. Took me some time to figure it out. Just move back all way your throttle trim and the ESC will arm.
First time, I had to do this and I own a few planes and helis. My radio is a Walkera 2801 Pro.
I've had a similar problem with other planes. Try adjusting the trim for your throttle as dude75 suggested. If the trim is up too high, the esc won't arm. It's a failsafe built in to prevent the prop spinning up if the throttle is on when the power is connected.
Hobbyking also sell the DT700 seperately so you can check the specs there:
Required Voltage: 11.1v
Suggested Battery Capacity: 1300mAh
Suggested Prop: 10x4.7, 11x3.8 or 11x4.7
Max current draw: 13A (with 11x4.7 prop)
Max thrust: 900g
No Load Current: 1.2A
Shaft: 4M (perfectly suited to Towerpor/GWS SF Slow Fly props)
Weight: 78g
Diameter: 41mm
Overall length: 77mm
Kv: 700rpm/v
The 700kv Motor model: C4038-15 specs are listed at the Art-Tech website under the motors category
Check out: www.link (mm) 4038
Maximum sustained current (A)13
Shaft diameter (mm)4
No load current (A) 1.7A
Weight (g/oz) 80/2.8
Internal resistance (mO)85
Output Power (W) 110 Thrust (oz) 24.5
No load KV (rpm/V) 700
Suitable propeller 1047
Batteries 3 cell Li-Po Use for model Aerobatics airplane
Hi,
I've broken my engine mount, repaired it and its now toast after a hard landing.
What are you guys using to replace it??
I've looked without success
Cheers
Can we change the original 3 blade propeller to 2 blade propeller? What is the size of the propeller ? Should we change the motor, esc and battery also? Thanks for advise.
For those of you who have this plane, can you please show the photo of the battery compartment. And what dimension of battery can be place into the compartment.
The battery compartment is preformed to hold a short 1500 or 1300 mAh battery but it can be enlarged to hold a 1500 or 1800 long mAh battery. Thats what I made with mine,
Best battery for this plane is a 11.1v 1000mah 3s or a 11.1V 3S 1300mah lipo battery as both will fit. can't attach a photo here Thanks. I hope this helps
Hi I personally fly with the Zippy 1600 20 C batteries and they are 105mm long which is a very tight fit lengthwise even though I have cut the floor out of the battery bay and removed the weight above. the door itself is just big enough to fit a 1300 and with the floor uncut this is all that will fit in there so the size is 35 x 21 x 71mm but if the floor is cut you can fit batteries 35 x 21 x 105mm.
Hi derfel and Napstr, since you had enlarge the battery compartment to fix to 1600mAh and 1800mAh battery, does the battery weight effect the flying CG shifted? 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack Size: 72 x 36 x 24mm, Pack Weight: 115g..
1800mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack Size: 110 x 34 x 21mm Pack Weight: 153g
anytime you add weight to a plane it affects C of G and how it flies, lighter is better. I try to use battery management when I fly. Cut power on the down side of a loop. Reduce power on downwind leg. Set the plane up so very little trim is needed also reduces battery drain. You will be surprised with just a little fine tuning of the plane and your flying your batteries will last longer and may not need the larger battery.
this is probibly going to be an odd question but that little plastic thingy sitting next to the spinner in the picture were everything is layed out were does it go i have no idea tho it cant be that important ive been flying without it
It is meant to be the radio antenna which is meant for behind the cockpit but it just looks like something that will fall off if you look at it sideways so not worth the hassle of fitting IMHO.
I have the antenna on my corair for one year, and still there (and even if I look at it sideways ;) Just glue it in the dimple rear left of the cockpit with epoxy and it will stay there. target=_blank>My HobbyKingF4U
I looked at the dimple and guessed it was meant to go there but when I studied the full size it appeared the antenna is meant to sit right on top - not off to one side and not in a dimple so I concluded as it was not correct why bother installing at all.
That is the the wire Rod for display purposes to simulate the real plane appearance. It would be installed about 1 inch center from the canopy towards the tail end of the Plane. I would not recommend putting it on for fling because you may accidentally stub your hand picking it up. Google image search: NP F4U Corsair. checkout : www.link
Awesome little plane. Engineering is a cut above standard Chinese/GWS fair, will actually fly pretty well. Sweet flyer
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The Corsair certainly didn't JUMP into the air. It was a gentle but authoritative climb out. The propeller provides plenty of power but is NOT fast by any means. I have the control surface throws at minimum and the transmitter set to low rate for the maiden flight. It turns easily and has plenty of elevator even at these low settings. I had to add about 6 clicks of up elevator and 3 clicks of right aileron to trim it. I can't believe it was actua
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