Turnigy 130A Watt Meter and Power Analyzer

 macchp 119 points

Mine is working perfect. You can see the A changing with small amount on my video GDuo8gmfn9k * 57 sec to 1,05 min. It seems to be a specific failure on yours.

 Byung-Yong 6 points

I think mine has a trouble definately. I raised this issue to Hobby King customer service.

Thankt you.

 rpaircraft 10 points

I have looked into the "2 in 1" but I am very happy with my purchase of this watt metter.

 briandude70 53 points

The servo plug on the side is for using an external battery pack so that you can measure low voltages. It explains it in the instruction sheet.

 jk6672 16 points

I have both, and I haven't used the HK-010 since I purchased this one. It's a must have peice of equipment that I wish I would have purchased first.

 Mike 38 points

****

 Santhosh 186 points

Yes...very good idea..

 wellmanite 183 points

Cars/truck are complicated to measure. Normal amperage can range from 50-150A, and breaking, accelerating, and stalled amperage can range from 200-1000A I think. This meter can handle 65A continuous and 130A for about 5-10 seconds(reccommended) before the internal solder melts and/or the circuits burn. So, I would be careful about going over 130A.

 Barnsy 14 points

Sounds like you know what went wrong already! This is designed for RC use to test LiPos, wouldn't surprise me if automotive use would be too much for it.

 James 7 points

Car batteries sound like a bad thing with this tool. A car battery can supply 1000 amps, so yeah that probably fried it over time.

 Cody f86saber 337 points

I haven't seen the internals to know what topology is being used to measure the current flow (there are two ways it can be done) but most chargers do not supply over 15A during charging. If I understand this correctly, the load side is not designed to see a large back EMF like there would be with a battery connected to it. The other possibility is formed around the fact that many lead acid battery chargers do not supply a constant DC voltage, but rather a rectified DC voltage that pulses or is at least noisy. I would hope this isn't the case, but it may have overworked the meter's integral regulator.

 Dillzio 403 points

Thanks for the reply Cody. I think you're spot on with the load side not being designed to see a large EMF, I was thinking I might be able to put a large capacitor on that end to protect it. The battery charger I was using was a Turnigy 400w, not a car battery charger, so I don't think a pulsing DC current would have been the cause

 Cody f86saber 337 points

Hello Dillzio, A low voltage high current power supply with adaquate filtering capacitance will also function the same as a large battery. The capacitance you will need to smooth the DC voltage under full load may be very high, and I would suggest a large transformer, rectifier bank and 1F (1,000,000uF) car audio capacitor would suffice. A high voltage small value film capacitor (0.22uF and 0.1uF paralleled should be adaquate) shunted to ground or the negative supply rail will suppress high frequency transients that may also be present. Lead acid battery chargers typically are not the cleanest power sources. Two parallel car or truck batteries with adequate fuse protection may be the lowest cost and safest method. I hope this helps, cheers!

 Dillzio 403 points

I don't think we're talking about the same thing Cody. I think you're telling me how to use a car battery charger to power something that's sensitive to voltage fluctuations. All I want to do is measure the power going into a battery from a battery charger. When I blew my wattmeter, I was charging a car battery with that on the wattmeter's load side, and my Turnigy 400w charger on the source side. When I connected the car battery it arced quite strongly, which is what I think fried the IC in my wattmeter. I was thinking that if I put a 25v 3300UF low EMF capacitor on the wattmeter's load side it will protect the ICs?

 norbique 457 points

nice! I though only the Serb customs include shipping cost as well when determining customs TAX. he he :)

 Tombo242 5 points

Well Norbique, it seems that we are not the only ones then. I think the customs find it easier to just take the total cost, that way the supplier cannot hide some of the actual cost in the shipping charge. Our customs really love the so called "Free Shipping" where the supplier hides his costs in the total price, Still no sign of my parcel as yet! :(

 Robert W 3 points

My guess would be the current is being measured on the negative side. That looked like a shunt on the back side, and the circuit will measure the voltage drop across that shunt to give the amperage reading.

 Eduard 1 points

It is video about terribal soldering mainly *o)))

 Gary 2962 points

All electronic items have built in smoke,you just must never let it out!!!!!

 wellmanite 183 points

No loging memory, and use with current over 65A for short periods of time.

 jrt-RC 32 points

TristanJones, Yes you can use this. It saves/logs the highest current and lowest voltage.

 TristanJones 49 points

thanks jrt-RC, thats what I was hoping, trying to work out actual RPM of my boat at full load. Credit awarded!!

 0Mica0 62 points

Tgy is cheaper and could handle higher currents. Wattsup has better noise immunity, so it is probably more accurate...

 wellmanite 183 points

How would the current be reversed? I don't think it will record a negative flow such as when charging a battery.

 0Mica0 62 points

I just tried to switch source and load and only. It is conducting but only voltage is measured... So maybe it is possible to use it in charge/load circuit, but only load current will be measured/recorded. Keep in mind that I did NOT designed this meter so I can't guarantee that is safe to switch charge/load wires!!!

 Bikemad 21 points

This meter can only measure current flow in one direction but will allow current flow in both directions with ease. On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking.

 Bikemad 21 points

Let's try that again. On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking. Hopefully this will make more sense now, assuming the site has not edited it out again! I don't understand why HobbyKing decided my original post contained a link. Why aren't we allowed to use square brackets?

 Bikemad 21 points

Third time lucky? On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking. Perhaps we are not allowed to use colons?

 Bikemad 21 points

Battery connects to Source on first meter. Load on first meter then connects to Load on second meter. Source on second meter then connects to motor.

 Juan Carlos 17 points

Hello, is 130 amps continuous regards

 Juan Luis 21 points

Hello, even the system support 130A, cables and circuitery. are not prepared. I explain that, when the current in the conductor becomes bigger, the precision on the system gets worst. A wattmeter needs an internal resistence to work, and also there is some heat disipation, that makes your system to use less power than real (without the wattmeter connected). Maybe its a difficult concept, but as a summary, it could resit big currents (A), but it will be not accurate for measurements at about 130A. I hope this help you to your purpose. A deeper explanation can be given if needed.

 alex.khoroshko 325 points

Actually, such a great currents are measured with Hall effect sensors, which don't need the voltage drop at all. About "less than real" - yes, some voltage will drop on wires of wattmeter. But, the same thing happens in your airplane. So more or less, the result will be very close to real life.

 wellmanite 183 points

I received it today, and it says limit the time if using over 65A.

 0Mica0 62 points

Yep. It shows highest measured current and lowest measured voltage...

 Hussain Joharji 204 points

Hello as i remember no it wont.. you should buy the connector you need .. Best regards

 David 34 points

No,it comes with tinned wire leads, ready to solder the connector you www.link

 0Mica0 62 points

You will have to use auxiliary power source (aux connector is next to the Load wires)...

 diego82 29 points

Hi,Mica is right, auxiliary power source is needed if the power input is less then 4,8V. About the data store: this meter will loose all the data when the power is off. The solution is: use the main power input for your solar sistem and power the meter itself with the provided auxiliary power input(you find it on the source side)wich held 4,8 to 60 V, doing so you will have the data visible as long as the auxiliary source is provided.By

 David 2 points

Thanks guys. I got my meter and it works great. One strange thing though: I don't get any Time measurement. In other words it jumps straight from Wh to Vm with no elapsed time measure... Why would it do that?

 Hussain Joharji 204 points

Hello,, good job man, and nice idea... ok excuse me from where u get the actual size of the display ??? Best Regards

 Sloperdude 1309 points

So that's why I have trouble focusing on deep blue LED Christmas tree lights.

 trueblue2k2 10 points

Yes! But if you can't focus on other colors over the holidays you may have had too much to drink 8~)

 trueblue2k2 10 points

Hussain - Display size is not important. The thin plastic back light behind the LCD is edge lit with one or more blue LEDs. Just replace them with small white LEDs. If the white light is uneven using common dome tipped LEDs, I will just clip off the tip (or lens) to even out the light spread.

 yair 38 points

hi, it is not feet and inches. its minutes and seconds, it shows the duration of the test. how long it was under load.

 ken 12 points

Thanks, just have not seen that on the screen before.

 srgcsp 25 points

voce nao quer dizer minutos e segundos restantes ?

 RC_Combat 41 points

srgcsp: no, just time with connecting power only. BTW. In English it's just easier...

 Hussain Joharji 204 points

Hello, you can solder it no problem ... but if you want for safety use 4mm connector ..

i think there is no problem if you use the connector.. but make sure the solder is more for resist..
Best Regards

 Robbynaish 12 points

do u think will be strong if the cable can be soldered only on the first part of the xt60 (where is half cutted)?
Before i mistyped.. i meant "i cant push cable into xt60 till end"

Thnks
Ale

 Ninjatech 3646 points

I would suggest you to solder the 4 or 5 mm connectors , as they can handle more amps than the XT60 connectors . I'm already using the 4mm ones without any issues .

 Robbynaish 12 points

if i will put 4.0mm bullet as u, do u suggest male on souce side and female in the load side? thnks Ale

 Ninjatech 3646 points

No , my friend let me explain . Prefer to solder the connectors just like you connect the battery pack to your ESC . For example : Your battery pack has already female connector on the positive wire (Red) and male connector on the negative wire (black) - [If not , that's how it should be] . So , you should solder the 4mm connectors like this : the male connector to the positive wire (Red) and the female to the negative wire (black) on the SOURCE side of the Wattmeter . The oposite order goes for the LOAD side of the Wattmeter , in other words you must solder Female connector to the Red wire and male connector to the Black wire (just like your battery pack is) . The LOAD side goes to your ESC , so , you must solder the male connector to the Red wire of ESC and finally the female connector to the Black wire of the ESC . ... Ready !!!

 Robbynaish 12 points

Great!!! Many thanks my friend!! If u will pass in Rome u have a Beer paied :) ciao

 Ninjatech 3646 points

Thanks my friend : ) I would be very glad to ! Have a nice evening .

 Robbynaish 12 points

Can u imagine that yesterday i bought bullet of 4mm and the cable is still bigger? :) DO u think i buy 5mm or 5,5? Thks Ale

 Ninjatech 3646 points

Hello mate Robbynaish . I believe you should better stay on the 4mm connectors , as they can handle around 93 Amps and the most battery packs come with the same connectors . I have a Turnigy nano-tech 3300mAh 65-130C ( continuous 214.5 A , burst 429 A) , with 10 AWG wires that already uses these 4mm connectors . So , don't worry i ensure you they will fit nicely to the 12 AWG wires of the Wattmeter .

 icahone 72 points

I am having it soldered to XT60's as said, at the ends. It holds strong, just use enough solder for good joints.

 no speed 10 points

Hello Ninjatech, I drive 2 pieces nano-tech 5000mAh 65 / 130C, would be 325 / 650A. In the test they have only 50 / 90C brought, this is correct! And it is better, for 10 AWG and streams greater 150A to use 5-6mm plugs. 4 mm of plug are not suitable for streams more than 100A, there is a too big tension loss. So one should use at least 5 mm of plug... I have 130A watt metres aufgepimt for 260A, see "files", with instructions...

 Ninjatech 3646 points

Hi no speed. Thanks for letting us know about your wattmeter's modification. Without intention to come into conflict with you, I would like you to read the previous messages of this post, as i have already mentioned about the 4 and 5 mm connectors fitted on this specific wattmeter which can handle up to 130 Amps. I just personally prefer to use the 4mm connectors as it is mostly used on the higher capacity batteries (ZIPPY-Turnigy). I prefer also to setup all my R/C models(cars-planes-motorcycle-boats-helis) at higher voltage in order to keep lower the current consumption. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone!!!