Power your receiver and servos with the baddest of UBEC power solutions. The all new Turnigy 7.5A UBEC is an advanced switching DC-DC regulator which will supply a constant 5A or more with short bursts of up to 7.5amps. The Turnigy UBEC plugs into a 3 - 10 Cell Lipoly pack and supplies a constant 5 or 6v to your receiver. The system includes an anti-short circuit and overheat function with a thin metal shield cover, reducing noise Also included is an Output filter to reduce noise, an on/off switch and a step down regulator adapter. Chip efficiency is 92%.
If you have a mid sized plane, with standard servos and want a solid UBEC which wont quit. This is an excellent option.
Spec. Output (Constant): 5v/5A or 6v/5A Input: 8v-42v (3-10cell lipo) High Voltage Size: 48x27x9mm Weight: 37g Quiescent current: 20mA Type: Switching, however because of the noise reduction (thin metal case & filter) this unit gives the same noise as a Linear BEC.
Yes you would get s longer operating time as you have a higher input voltage there will be a lower current flow. If all was equal you would get 50% more operating time but without knowing the thermal efficiency of the unit that figure could be 10% either way.
The reason they say 3s as opposed to 2s is the voltage at 2s is only 7.4 while your servos operate at 6v max. You would be putting an awful lot of draw on that tiny 2s pack. besides the price point between a 2s and 3s pack is what? a couple of bucks there are some 3s reciever packs that are actually cheaper they are the close in cost. I'd stay on the safe side and go witht he reccomended save a few bucks now or kill your heli later.
I have genesis boat which using Esc 240hv turnigy aquastar, leopard 4082 1450v, 4s x 2 battery lipo turnigy nano tech 5000 mAh and using this ubec with separate battery pack 6.2v 2s 2100mAh for receiver...servo functioning n the problem is my motor not running....should i unplugged the middle wire for esc after i connected all the wire?
beppo u mean just plugged the esc cable to the receiver, without take it out the middle wire of the esc....? sorry coz i should ask the silly question...im still dont understand i used to connect 8s series...thats mean 4s x2...so which black cables i should connect both?
Mohd Fadly connect the black cable from the ESC battery plug with the black cable from the UBEC battery plug. If the ESC doesn't have a BEC You don't need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC servo plug. If the ESC has a BEC and You use a seperate UBEC You have to disconnect the red wire from the ESC servo plug.
What is the ESC doing. Just beep ore noting at all?
Always turn on Your transmitter and make shure the throttle stick is on idle before You plug the batteries to the receiver and ESC.
Try to move the throttle stick all the way to full power and then back to idle after You connected all the batteries. After that try the motor is running or not.
If it's still not working, You must give me all information how You doing the prcedure step by step.
I don't think Your ESC is burned if You never got it to run. don't hesitate to ask me again. We will find the problem.
esc doesn't beep at all...im always on the transmitter when plugged all the wire...ubec seems ok coz it light on, servo function.. but after i turning on the switch at the esc nothing happen....motor still not working after i turn the transmitter stick..
Ok. first question: How do You program Your ESC? HK says they do not suggest to program this ESC by a transmitter. I guess it's bit tricky. Anyway, go program it to automatc cut off voltage and after that take off Your batteries from the serial cables. Use just one 4s battery with a fresh load and connect it to the ESC for testing.
first i got the esc , i didn' t program it , just plug to the battery, anyway i tried before use 4s but it still dont work... can i use program card to reset the esc...sorry beppo coz this is my 1st time im use this esc..before 180a seaking with 6s...and it works well very easy to install...
Mohd Fadly I think we should go change to post our dicussion to the aquastar ESC. This is no more a problem with the UBEC and the people, who are searching for help with the product above, will be boring about the long story. I will go to the ESC produkt page now.
When using a UBEC you should disconect the red wire on the servo plug of your ESC otherwise the BEC circuit of the ESC will fight against the UBEC. I have never had a UBEC fail but I have had and ESC fail and the BEC then also fail. If you are running more than 3 cell packs then the UBEC will provide power even if the pack losses a cell or the voltage drops well below the point that would damage the pack.
can i install for my boat coz im use 240a
hv esc that dont have bec..do they have any diagram so that i can install it after i buy this hv ubec..so everybody have the diagram can email me at alijb30*yahoo****
You can do what I have done on my aircraft. Simply solder the red and black input wires of the UBEC onto the red and black input wires of the ESC and that way as soon as you connect your battery the UBEC will supply the RX with power. This works well for me as all my ESC do not run until the RX has bound. An alternative is to make up a short lead with male and female battery connectors and solder the UBEC lead onto that, then you can connect the battery and bind the RX before connecting the ESC. That is the best option for safety.
It is a 5.1V two-way step-down voltage regulator.
For some servos such as Futaba servo models 9241, 9251, 9253, 9254, 9255, 9256 and other digital servos are not capable of handling 6V. You must connect a 5.1V step-down voltage regulator to the rudder servo (Heli), or connect it between BEC and the receiver for all servos. It could avoid the servos overloading and damaged.
In electric planes, the ESC (Speed Control) has a BEC that takes the power from the battery and routes it to the motor and receiver (Which controls the servos). By connecting a UBEC to the ESC's battery connection you ensure the receiver stays powered on in case the ESC fails.
Two benefits: You're less likely to lose a whole plane if your ESC burns out/fails and you save on weight compared to using a separate battery to power the receiver.
This is for providing normal 5V DC to your receiver, (and indirectly to all your servos and accessories). This is known as "BEC" for historical reasons. For most small models, this feature is included in the ESC. For larger models, especially when running higher voltages (5S and above lipo packs), you will see most such high power ESCs marked as "no BEC". This is when you need a dedicated BEC like this product. The meaning of "U" in UBEC likely means it is a switchmode BEC. (I prefer the shortfo
Did you notice that the 5 to 7.5A model can handle up to 10S lipo supply. Hence the HV which stands for "high voltage".
The 8 to 15A model is can handle up to 3S lipo supply only.
I have used both before.
The 5-7A model is a bit more compact, it is great if you have a model that runs on more than 3S and you do not want to have a separate battery pack for electronics.
I'm considering ordering this unit. I have an ESC with a 3A switched BEC built in. I have recently added 2 more servos with a total of 7 plus throttle. I understand about cutting red wire on my current ESC. But how does this one hook up after that? When you say red/black goes to battery...how does it connect to battery? is it on the charging lead? do you have to cut wires and solder?
Yes, you will have to solder your own connector for the battery. I usually use JST connectors that are also sold at HK. It's up to you what you use to connect it to your battery source - and yes, I suppose you could use the charging lead, assuming you had the right connector.
However, on the output side of the UBEC a connector is already attached, it is a standard servo connector, and it plugs into a spare channel on your receiver (or if you do not have a spare channel, use a servo Y-connector
Generally you don't want to run stuff from your charging/balance lead. Especially high power stuff. I've soldered UBECs straight to the ESCs battery connection. I've built an passthrough connectors, basically two deans connectors, male and female, with the UBEC soldered in between. That allows you to plug your UBEC into your battery, and then plug your ESC into the passthrough connector.
The easiest way is to solder the UBEC to the ESC battery connections. A standard servo takes 350 mah and a digital is 500 mah under normal load. So 7 digital servos would be 3.5 A.
Also regarding connector deans can take 45 A max. XT 60 60 Amp max and Gold 5 mm for ~ 100 amp. If you use deans or XT 60 for higher currents they will heat up increasing resistance and restricting current flow.
I just received my first one of these. I understand that the wiring diagram is backwards, and that the leads with the ferrite ring go to the receiver and that the other pair go to the battery. But I don't understand how the short jumper with the heatshrink tubing and the extra component installed in it is supposed to work. It appears the only place on the UBEC where it could plug in is on the pins where the 5 volt/6 volt jumper is installed. But I thought the jumper was needed to set the voltage delivered to the receiver through the leads with the ferrite ring. What is the purpose of the short lead? And what plugs into it? I don't understand the instructions at all.
it is very simple keep the jumper as it is on 5V connect the red and black wire to battery and the long lead(wire)with the ring directly to receiver, use on off buttom it should work in perfect condition
I'm still waiting for this item, but I think, I know, what you mean. There add. thing is the step-down-adapter (1 female end, 1 male end)
The BEC can switched to 5V or to 6V. The better choice for more power and more speed of the Servo, will be 6V. Normally every RX can handle 6V and a lot of Servo's, too. BUT: if yu have e.g. a Helicopter and the Gyro is a LGT6100 (can handle 6V) but the Servo LTS6100 can only handle 5.5V without any problem, you must reduce the voltage. Now you 2 choice: go do
You have to test it by yourself! If the UBEC is not strong enough you can add a second UBEC (Same device, same voltage input and output) and the current will be nearly twice amps. than a single UBEC (I have measured max. 10.4A. continuously)
It depends on the Servos. My initial thoughts are NO, as if each of your Servos pull only 1A (which is easy) you will be pulling 8A total and this is over the MAX rating of the UBEC. It is easy for 8 Servos under load to pull 1.5-2A each which is far in excess of the UBEC. As above use 2 becs in parallel.
What they are referring to is "RF noise" the DC-DC switching regulator RF interference,I use this same unit for my P-51 w/8 servos and no you cant hear anything but it is also possible as a very High pitch hum or ringing? think about the motor when you plug your esc in,it is the motor that beeps not the esc(wire or windings).Hope this helps?
It is referring to ELECTRICAL noise produced by switch mode power supplies. This unit has a metal case and a ferrite ring on the output wires to reduce ELECTRICAL noise. Noise is not normally a problem for 2.4 GHz radio but it can cause interference on FM radios.
This type of battery eliminator circuit uses a highly efficient switching type voltage regulator. This type of voltage regulator is able to maintain accurate voltage stability by switching the voltage on its input at a high speed (several thousand switches per second). Switching a voltage on and off in this way creates an AC signal that can cause interference to the receiver (particularly HF systems such as those operating at 35 or 36MHz). This is referred to as interference or 'noise'. The Tu
Because its a switching power supply. It switches the full battery voltage on and off very quickly. the result is an average lower voltage to drive your rc gear. this switching produces a radio frequency (Probably in the Mhz range)that is shielded by the can of the regulator.it's radio frequency "noise" (Ya can't hear it!). Your computer power supply works on the same principal
If you look on the oscilloscope e.g an accu, you will see a line from left to right, but not from up to down (Voltage). The UBEC is a switched circuit. This means the UBEC works like a electronic transformer. for this one, the DC must be trigger to AC (like 220V. If you look this one on the Oszi, you will see a sinus curve).
If you need current from the accu, more as the accu can give, you can see on the Oszi, that the line is falling down (Voltage goes down). The BCE try to hold the voltage, bu
They are speaking of electronic noise generated by the switching curcuits inside the UBEC that can interfer with other electronic circuits such as your receiver. Not noise you can hear. The metal can or housing around this UBEC acts as a shield to keep most of the electronic noise from affecting other devices. It is always good practice to mount UBEC as far away from receiver as possible. I have one of these and it is working great!
That means high frequencies noise. You can not hear this but it can interfere your Receiver! This unit is a very good device it works proper with the most MHz and all 2.4 GHz Receivers with no problem.
every voltage source, has a noise output. what this means is that: imagine a DC current as a straight line, well if u zoom in it some 100 times u can "see" that it is not actually straight but it has small peaks. The amplitude of those peaks is called noise
HELP - I am having a problem with this for my plane. I soldered the UBEC into my setup. I am using the Turnigy 80amp Plush (with the BEC disabled) and a 5S 5000mAh. The problem is that when I attach the UBEC output to my RX it does not power it. I used my meter and I can see 20V power being provided. I am confused but this since the jumper for 5V is in place. Does this mean the unit is defective? I can not see any other way to rewire this to work differently.
When I checked the power out of my built-in BEC in the ESC I see 5.1V being provided and this seems to work. I DO want to use this product to be sure my plane will not brown out.
Please help with some advice.
20V going into the BEC or coming out? If you get 20V coming OUT of the BEC via the servo style plug then there is something horribly wrong. You are lucky that didn't fry your Rx, if your Rx still works that is!
Silly question, but have you used your voltmeter to check that there is a voltage at the output of the UBEC? If the UBEC does not power your receiver this means that either (i) the UBEC is defective or (ii) the 3 pin connector from the UBEC to the receiver is defective. One last point, if you move the jumper to the other voltage position (nominally 6V), do you get any output at your volt meter?
best of luck
Does you see the 20V without any electronic load?
If the output will be at 20V, I'll believe, that the RX and Servos will be died quickly. In case of no load, it could be possible, that the circuit can not working correct. If you connect e.g. a small lamp, I'm pretty sure, that the voltage goes very fast down to your selected Voltage. The voltage alone does not destroy any RX, Serov's and so on. Only in combination with the possible current. If the voltage is falling down with a small load to 5/
I would like to power a 41mhz receiver with this Ubec. I would like to know if the chip is sufficient to prevent radio interference and how many turns I have to do with the wire around it for a maximum efficiency.
Can soomeone please help!! I just ordered one of these becs for my 1/10 car. Do i need a seperate lipo cut off, or will my esc (which has a lipo cut off)still do its job. IOW will i screw up my lipos with this bec?? thanks
As far as I know this will not cut off with low LiPo voltage so you run the risk of damaging the LiPo if you leave it too long between charges. Get a cheepie LED voltmeter to put in the car and use it as a guide for when you need to charge.
All that the UBEC does is supply a constant voltage to the receiver irrespective of the battery voltage, and enough current capacity to drive the servos. The LiPo cutoff is controlled by the ESC, and will not be affected by the presence of the UBEC.
This UBEC will be connected parallel with your ESC in front of your Lipo.
Lipo to the red cabel of the ESC and another red cable to the UBEC.
The same with Minus. form the Lipo 2 cable : 1 to the ESC , one to the UBEC.
If the cutoff the ESC is working, the LiPo has normally enough power for your receiver and servo's. It is very dangerous, if you will cutoff your receiver and Server's during use ! The model will be out of control!
no, your lipos will be fine. the bec just leaches from you lipo. The esc has it's own protection and wil cutoff as soon as the minimum has been reached (if you programmed it). The bec will just continue working so it will be fine
Just ordered some days ago and waiting to go out of backorder status... It seems to me there are no alternative products in HK if you want to use your 6S lipos 22 Volts for powering your heli without having to mount an additional battery for the servos and receiver... Note the new Digital servos eats more amps than older servors. 8 Amps seems to be the minimun if you want to flight is safe conditions.
>>8 Amps seems to be the minimun if you want to flight is safe conditions.<<
Really? I think it is in depend of which model and how much Servo's does you want to used. E.g. a Rex700 with FBL! and 610&620 Servo's will be delivered with a 6A BEC and I haven't hear, that the a Rex700 was falling down about the BEC problem. Expensive alternative is possible
Hola, pregunta,compre junto con este UBEC una bateria polimero 2S 4500 amps. funciona correcto siendo q es un ubec para baterias de 3S en adelante, mi pregunta es si no me voy a quedar sin energia cuando la bateria agote un poco de su voltaje, gracias
Yes, I'm thinking to change the order because I'm waitting for two month more ore less, and I have two project to finish a Raptor overhall and my Tarot 500 CF is a Trex 500 clone and I think that the waitting is far away.
I don't know why don't built the ESC with this king of BEC I don't care pay a little bit more but you can choose 5V or 6V for your servos, I have a 6V servos and I have to buy one of this and anulated the BEC from the ESC for used the servos in full performance. HEY TURNIGY!!!!!!
Well,, at just under half usage a 2s battery has only 7.6 volts, will this cause any problems? I do understand electronics a bit but this is starting to get a bit too technical for me :( as I have heard that useing lower volts than recomended can hurt electrical devices??? Can any one with a technologicaly advanced brain make sence of my question? :oD
Sander: Question - The "input" wires ( long cable with green ring ) on the ubec have already a connector ( flat, black type that normally go into receivers ) that looks like IT should plug into the receiver and the output wires on the ubec ( with bare metal ends ) looks like they should be the ones that are soldered to my ESC's battery jack - No? If what you suggest is true, why do they put a connector on the side they want you to solder to the esc's batt leads and none on the other side that needs this very same connector?
I GOT IT!!! OK, following my gut, I connected the JST connector to the receiver and spliced the bare ends into the wires coming off of the ESC ( that connect to the battery) . It worked. OK, here's where my confusion came from... on the directions, the "input" and "output" are labeled backwards! But, on the actual board itself, in small print they are labeled correctly. Hope this helps another newbie.
40 thumbs up!
I'm using this BEC on a Logo 500 flybarless and it's not up to the job. After about a minute of flight it will overheat and drop belos the critical voltage on my Spectrum receiver causing a reboot, not good on a flybarless machine as it totally freaks out. I have managed to replicate the results on the bench so if you go flybarless I think this BEC is not up to the job.
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40 thumbs up!
Cant really say if this is good or not. mine was delivered with parts broken inside, it does work but would trust lossing a plane with it.
Ordered two of them. one works fine, the other UBEC was without funktion. 3 Stars anyway...
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10 thumbs up!
Funciona con servos de regular consumo, sin embargo con servos digitales y receptor 2.4 MUCHO CUIDADO, NO PUEDE CON EL TRABAJO, POR LO CONSIGUIENTE DEJA SIN ENERGIA SUFICIENTE AL RECEPTOR, lo que puede provocar perdida de respuesta del receptor y bye. recomendable para aviones de 4 o 5 servos estandar.