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So, you want a fast parkflyer!? Forget boring scale details and shelf queen good looks this F4U Corsair is built for speed and all out fun! Dog fight with friends on 3S or use a 4S pack for heart pounding high speed passes, either way the Fun fighters have you covered. The combination of the light weight EPO airframe, a high power brushless motor and a simple aileron and elevator setup place these models amongst the most exhilarating park flyers to hit the market this year. Dont be left out of the fun!
This model comes plug and fly and only requires a few minutes of assembly time and flies like its on rails thanks to the one piece molding technique used in the construction. All you will require to have the F4U Corsair in the air is a 3~4S 850mAh 20C Lipoly battery and your own transmitter and receiver (Tx/Rx)
Hi all,
I've just registered as a member here, totally new to the RC world.
Can someone give me advise on what would be a good beginner model and what radio controller and receiver to buy?
Many thanks,
PK
Hi, the axn floater jet would a good first electric plane to start off with , very forgiving and when your ready it can go pretty fast plus you will never outgrow it ...
Buy the kit version and add your own esc and servos as the stock ones are ****.....
I would defiantly not buy this funfighter or any warbird as a beginner plane as it will almost certainly end in disaster (it did with me anyway) too small and too fast for a first plane
I agree with above you are spoilt for choice these days but most planes with a high mounted rear prop are great beginners planes since the prop is protected and you can belly land them anywhere. I use an EasyStar 2 RR with aileron servos fitted for FPV because its easy to fly. HK have their Bixler 2. Play with an RC simulator first on your computer with a proper radio controller. Some expensive sims include a mock radio with a USB connector eg RealFlight, Aerosoft 5 etc. Some such as Phoenix come with a USB adapter which connects to the trainer port on your radio. There are some sims such as Clearview you can download and it has a trial period but you need to get your own connector. HK has a sim in their range as well. I learnt using RealFlight. I upgraded it to vers 5.5 before I sold it which I now regret.
I have just started flying too. I learnt using "Absolute RC Plane Simulator" on my android phone. Nowhere near as good as a proper simulator and transmitter, but it taught me the basics, especially when the plane is coming back towards me. Now I am flying the Club Trainer which is easy to fly and has enough maneuverability to do rolls, loops etc. Hand launches and lands really easily too. I have had a few crashes though. Lucky it is a tough plane. My first flight was on a football field and I lost it over some houses. Took a couple of hours to find it and an hour to repair it. So make sure you have plenty of space to start with.
Hi David are you talking about the HK Club trainer, epo, i was just looking at buying one of these myself but hadnt really heard much about them and wondered if they fly ok, from your report they seem ok, im just learning to fly swell, when you say you lost it in the houses was that pilot error or loss of signal, what radio gear are you using in it, any info would be great to benefit my purchase. thanks.
Yep, the HK Club Trainer. They fly nicely. Enough power, everything works well. I have cut some hinges, especially rudder and elevator. Also modified the plastic battery compartment to suit a 3S 2200. I am using a Turnigy 9X. Excellent. My crash was the plane being out of trim, not enough space to fly and having no experience. First flight was with undercarriage, but I hand launch now. I chose it because it has good reviews and spare parts available. Also comes with a spare prop.
Thanks for info david, ok you removed uc due to lack of space or not good takeoff areas, or are they very flimsy and not very good. im asking this as i will be taking of from grass, which is not very short. The 9x working ok with receiver, i had heard they are not much good, not very good range.
I removed UC due to lack of good take off areas. UC worked fine the couple of times I used it. The only possible area you may need to modify is the mounting of the rear UC. Other than that they are very strong. For long grass, I would be hand launching and removing UC. Front wheel is a fiddle to remove and just make sure the wire that connects the servo to the front wheel does not get snagged on anything once the front wheel is removed. I have had no range issues with the 9X out to 150 or 200m. I have not range tested it. I also have a HK Mini Swift which is strong and small enough to fly on a footy oval. The other plane to consider is a Bixler. As good or better than the Club Trainer, although I don't have one! I wanted a real plane with undercarriage and a prop on the front, hence the club trainer. Next maybe a Durafly T-28 or Spitfire.
ok once again thank you for taking the time to give me some info, im new and was just going to jump in and just get warbirds, im the same i like real looking like planes, but i have restrained myself and just ordered a bixler to start off on, seems the norm as i can see on these forums for beginners, then will move on to a T-28 and miy ultimate plane is a P 51 Mustang
Good idea to get a Bixler rather than straight into the warbirds. When you do get a warbird, I suspect a 1100mm Durafly would be better than a funfighter. I think it would be easier to fly.
Hey, good luck with it. Catch you later.
Slope gliding can also be a gentle way to learn. That's how I started. Good luck with the Bixler. If it still has that heavy weight (metal washers) in the front use hot water to soften the glue and take it out which will allow you to use use a larger battery. Make sure your CofG is right, better nose heavy than tail heavy. I usually put fibre tape on the bottom to protect the foam and good quality clear tape on the wing leading edges to protect the wings.
Flew my Club Trainer again on the weekend. It is sooo nice to fly - easy to see, stable, flys true hands off, enough power and it does basic aerobatics too.
Hi David, I just use Staples Clear View long lasting packaging tape on the leading edges. Its about 5cm wide and its strong clear tape. I'm sure there's better ways but it works for me as a quick way to strengthen my foamies. Fibreglass is better for those looking for a better surface but I've not got into using that. I did buy buy some water based epoxy glue to do this since I was getting allergies to the epoxy glue. I know some people also use tissue paper but I've not learnt how to do that.
I have just received my f4u but i don't seem to have the control horn and the wire for the elevator. Is this the standard kit or is it something missing? And also I've got some spare araldite rapid adhesive left just wanted to verify whether its safe to be used to glue the bits together. Many thanks
kit should be complete, araldite is a strong multipurpose glue so I wouldn't risk it on foam, you can buy specialised foam glues in hobby stores, I use 3M spray brand. You can get it at upholstrey supply stores or wood glue works well too, railway modellers use it for making scenery out of foam.
Lately I've used Uhu Por a lot and Shoe glue is also good for fixing foam hinges. I always hot glue control horns. Cyanoacrylate is a quick and easy glue to use especially for repairs on EPO foam. Use foam safe version for Depron, PS, EPS* I think that's right. I also use 2 part epoxy. White Gorilla glue is also easy to use and strong but it expands.
Hi every one, just a quick question. Can I use a Turnigy 3000mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack in this airplane? HK Product ID: T3000.4S.20 hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?id Product=29000 Thanks in advance! :)
Here is my Funfighter, flying with another one, We clocked it with a radar gun, and after headwind and vector calculations, it'll run just under 100MPH!
Eh, I understand the frustration, but fixing stuff on your plane makes it your own, and that is the hobby part of RC. I fitted my canopy so it is pretty good, and it flies very well. My ESC was DOA, but I put in a 30A Blueseries, which works perfect, and a 3 axis gyro, using only 2 axises.
Quite right fixing stuff does make it your own, but, yes a but, your not building one here, your buying a pre-done model, sadly, im sorry to disagree, when i build from plans, i expect to have to fiddle, when i buy a pre-made one, you shouldnt be required to have to bodge the airframe.
I say your point is valid too, But we didn't buy from another place, we bought from here. The other Hobby websites are a lot more expensive, to say the least. Now that I am fully back in the hobby, PNF planes will not due for me anymore. Back in the day (my back in the day was circa 1978), I was well known for my scratch built planes, and my ability to build from plans only. I built at least a dozen planes, all balsa, and this financed my plane. Anyway, I am in the process of building a scratch plane now, no plans, just my knowledge of aeronautics. You are right though, a loose canopy is a discrepency, and the Funfighter is not really PNF either, you need some soldering, which really makes it a good ARF.
I fixed my canopy long ago, you have to trim a couple places, but I think you know that already. I am going to order another one, they are so much fun on 4s!
I use a Nanotech 850mAh, 4S it is the ideal battery. As you say it is a fun plane and quite easy to fly. I was pondering myself on buying another. The canopy needs trimming but its the gap at the back which annoys me. With a little bit more effort this could have been a perfect little flier. Also, you have to change the included **** ESC particularly with 4S. Hand launches are easier with 4S as well it just goes straight up.
Thanks for the credit! I have a solution for the gap at the aft end of the canopy, get two 1mm carbon rods, slit the edges of the fuselage to accomodate the rods, and pushing them in 1/2" into the tail end of the fuse, below the line where the edges are, cut to fit the slit as needed, coat the rod with 5 min. epoxy, and install, holding the tail ben slightly upward until the glue dries, doing one side at a time. Gap gone! It will also be a whole lot more rigid!
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