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Plush 25 Brushless Speed Controller The Plush series ESC are a very good quality controller. They have a broad range of programming features and a smooth throttle response compared to other BESCs in the same price range.
Our TURNIGY speed controllers come with a 14 month warranty. We guarentee these are the best Brushless Speed Controllers you can purchase at this price. These speed controllers are sold in western countries under various names at tripple the price. We are certain you will find these to be the best BESC available from Asia.
User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes. The programming card is an excellent Item and simple to use!
Hello. Does anyone know if i can mount a "new" 25A on my quad where i have 3 "old" 25A esc's?` i have heard that the old ones have Atmel proc, and the new ones have Silabs. I have mounted a new 25A on my quad and i get some issues, it sometimes moves "irratic" starts spinning and drops or gains height. I though i could program them with simonK but i dont know if its possible to do so with both models. Any help appreciated /Janne Strö*m
You can flash ESC with simonK (both with atmega and silabs), but I recommend to replace all old ESC with new ones. New ESC can be flashed with BLheli firmware that is pretty good for multirotors. You will have to open it and solder some wires for it so I suggest to buy more for spares. Hope that helps.
If you want to calibrate your ESC do following: power up your TX and set full throttle. Then connect battery to ESC, it will beep twice. Move throttle stick to lowest position - ESC will beep as much as your battery cells have (2 for 2S etc). After that ESC will make long beep: lowest setting was confirmed. ATTENTION!!! ESC can not beep by itself - it doesn't have a speaker. Sound comes from the motor connected, so you need to connect the motor to hear anything. Hope that helps.
Motor timing is an electric value that defines magnetic angle when magnet pair should act. In short: high timing makes motor more effective, more powerful but it will heat a lot. Low timing will increase motor lifetime, but can cause desyncronisation if you load your motor really much. You can leave default settings. And this is NOT delay time from power connection to ESC activation. Hope that helps.
Just put these in my DJI flamewheel, found out the motors wont start up with the naza because the esc need to be started after the naza, so i have to either flash with new firmware OR have them able to plug in seperately from the NAZA....
My question is
I have a programming card, on it it says Timing mode LOW MIDDLE and HIGH, what does this mean, and is this what I think it is, to delay the start of the esc? Im confused, thanks.
I just did a quickie search and it seems people are working around this problem by flashing the ESC's with the simon K software. Alot of people use it because it works really well for multirotors due to the quick repsonse speed. I would check out RCExplorer's guide to reflashing these ESC's with Simon K.
Motor timing is an electric value that defines magnetic angle when magnet pair should act. In short: high timing makes motor more effective, more powerful but it will heat a lot. Low timing will increase motor lifetime, but can cause desyncronisation if you load your motor really much. You can leave default settings. And this is NOT delay time from power connection to ESC activation. Hope that helps.
you need to connect it to the motor and to the reciever (or programming card) and then plug in the battery. if it is all ok, it will play you a song that you have selected :)
There's no built-in speaker in the ESC. Sound comes from the motor connected. If you didn't connect motor you will not hear anything. When motor and battery is connected you will hear "a-b-c notes, one beep, few beeps equal to your battery cells, long beep". That's standard "init melody". Hope that helps.
Hello, I was wondering about the connections on this ESC. Does it have pre-soldered connectors or do I have to buy spare ones? If so, can you suggest any?
Hi Bora, you need to buy "extra" connectors for power supply and for connecting the ESC to the motor(s). I am using 3.5mm 3wire Bullet-connector for motor and my power supply(9001-AB) because you can connect and disconnect them easily. Hope that helps...,Max
Actually you can use your TX to program this ESC. I think that you have transmitter in your "stock". :) Check the files tab for exact instructions or use google. I used arduino mega to programm it, but it's not a kinda programming card :)
How hot is too hot for these.. I got mine today and connected it to a Turnigy 2826 2200kv motor with a 5x5 prop and within about 30 sec of running, at about 50% throttle, It reached 151 degrees F I wouldn't let it run longer than that. Is there something wrong or is this normal operation? (I think not)
Well I own several of these that I use with 2836 NTM 750KV motors and I usually run them to 18-20 amps continuous and I have only had one get anything more than warm to the touch. ECALC says with a 5X5 prop and that motor that the prop will stall. Assuming you have a prop that will not stall It should only be pulling 17A continuous at full power. I would have to say verify that you are in fact only pulling 17A. If you are pulling > 22~25 amps that may be the cause of your heating issue. If you are pulling <20A then I would have to agree that your speed controller may be defective. With the only ESC I have had go bad in this series I noticed that when plugged in it was no longer beeping the various tones that it makes on startup. While it still ran it would only go to about 30-70% power before it stalled and it would generate a significant amount of heat. Either way verify the the Amps going in and if it is low try another ESC.
www.link the motor i have and it says to use a 5x5 and I too looked at ECALC and got the same answer. However, looking at it now, that motor requires a 40A ESC which would explain my problem.. As for ECALC its odd as the numbers just dont jive with the manufactures numbers... such as Amps and Stall. I figured i would ignore ECALC and go with the manufactures suggestions.
Thanks for your answer though.. was very helpful
Also don't forget, that the BEC is linear, which means, that it has a lot of waste heat power rapidly increasing with the current draw and numeber of cells in your battery.
to he point of 151 degrees fahrenheit??? I've never had a bec get anywhere near that hot... Keep in mind, many computers will shut down and or fry the CPU should it reach those temps. Ferthermore the BEC has no real load on it.. 2 servos... if a BEC with two servers is overheating to that point, there is something badly wrong with the BEC.
for a 2200kv motor 25, 30, is not enough. it will eventually burn, poof. use a 40 or even 50 amp esc. be sure cool air hits the esc. they get warm too but not 151 degrees. i ran my easy star using the micro dan motor and had to open canopy. i used even a 60 amp esc and it got piping hot. when i moved the esc to the top of the fuselage, it stayed cool.
It's popular ESC so it will be restocked really soon. You can order it while it's on backorder. New parcel goes to satisfy backorder-customers. Only after that it shows as in stock. Hope that helps.
It comes with no connectors. Some turnigy motors comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, but you need to solder it by yourself. I recommend to buy 3.5mm bullets for motor connection and 4mm bullets for power connection. Hope that helps.
You can flash it to increase PWM-frequency. I didn't try it yet, but I will do it for my quad - it should became more stable and responsibility should increase. You need to google "BLheli" (that's a firmware) because I have manuals only in russian language. I'll try to attach youtube video to show how good it will be. Hope that helps.
i heard some plushes cant be because a silicon chip or somthing like that whats the best one with the true best performance stability resonse and speeds low and high smoothness for the true best fpv ride?
Some OLD plushes cant be flashed. All new can. For multirotors you need really quick response. Most of ESC have filters that don't let you change RPM realy quick because there's no need to do it (in planes). But there's need with multirotors. The more quickly it changes RPMs the more stable it is. You don't need to flash it if you use it for plane or heli. Would be berret to flash it for using with multirotors.
I could not find anything that said they could on the flash page. I THINK the plush ones can. I did cut off the heat shrink and didn't see any locations for it. BUT, I am knida new at the flashing of ESCs. So if someone else says you can post it here please.
You can flash it to increase PWM-frequency. I didn't try it yet, but I will do it for my quad - it should became more stable and responsibility should increase. You need to google "BLheli" (that's a firmware) because I have manuals only in russian language. I'll try to attach youtube video to show how good it will be. Hope that helps.
i bought 3 plush escs a year ago and they came as silabs. about the firmware, they work fine, just works better/faster when you flash it. but if i need a easy to flash esc, i buy the black hk esc (the "F-series", not the "SS series"). look for PRODUCT ID: F-20A. hope i answered you question!
tommy i would recommend the Product Id: F-30A but its bk. any blueseries and mystery esc are cheap and uses atmega, so you can upgrade the firmware. heard a lot of the multistar too but these are not cheap.
No, but i did receive a motor (NTM) with a connector that would not make contact. It was as if there was glue under the spring piece insulating it from the main part of the terminal. Was very difficult to connect. try swapping ESCs, if the problem follows the ESC then i guess it is an ESC. i would make sure i change it on the board location as well.unless it is a plane. 6 sounds like a quad.
If you run it at 25.5 most of the time you should get a bigger one. It will likely handle it but if it doesn't you loose the plane. leave yourself some wiggle room. additionally it supplies the receiver as well and depending on how many servo's you have that could be a couple of amps at worst case scenario. Go bigger and if you don't definitely use a BEC
There must be something else going on here as i've been using the plush series ESC's for years now and i've never had a problem with them,even when i've gone over the specs a little they were still fine,i'd go as far as to say mine seemed bullet proof and thats why so many people like using these,i guess the odd one or so might go under the radar but i bet it's not the norm.
it depends on what motors you are running, if they are small motors you're battery might be to heavy. I would recommend using using either 2 or 4 smaller batteries, this way if one motor fails the rest will remain operational.
Im using the NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w for my QUADcopter are they considered small motors? Im just concerned if my 3S 4000mAh nanotech might be too much or not enough for my setup...
If you are using the 8x6 prop there should be enough thrust to lift your battery and the flight time time should be good but I prefer to have small batteries, because if you're constantly using the battery for that much work it will soon expand and become unusable. Smaller batteries spread the load and give you better control of your cg
I see... that makes sense! so my LiPo will get puffy overtime? But does the C rating on my battery will be sufficient for my quad? running 4 of these ESCs with the motors ive described above?
it depends on how you use the battery, if you constantly use it to 80% of its capacity the battery will puff but if you are careful it will last longer. As for the C rating if your battery is 25 or more it should be fine. If it is over 40 it would probably make the esc overheat.
That is mostly false info Ryan is giving you. A higher "C" rating will NOT make your ESC over heat. The ESC and motor only draw the amperage they need. The battery doesnt throw amperage at the esc so that doesn't even make sense. To answer James question: you have to make sure your battery can deliver the amount of Amps your motors will be drawing from it. The motors your using will draw a max of 18 amps each, so your battery must be able to sustain a 72 amp continuous draw (18 amps X 4 motors). Your 25c 4000mah lipo has a max draw rating of 100 amps so it is more than capable to push your Quad HARD without any problems. In the future you can easily figure out how many amps a lipo can deliver continuously with a simple equation. Multiply the "C" rating by the "Mah" of the battery and it will give you it's maxumum Amp discharge rate. So your 25c 4000mah would be 25c X 4000mah= 100,000mah or 100amps Continuous discharge. Happy safe flying!
Another thing, DON'T use four smaller batteries as Ryan suggested as its plain silly. His reasoning is that if one motor fails the rest would be operational makes absolutely no sense on a Quadcopter (1 bad motor is as good as 4 bad motors as it cannot fly without all 4). Use only ONE battery for all four esc's/motors.
I have been flying my quad on these ESC's for about 5 months now and today I took my quad out and as soon as I plugged the battery in all of the ESC's got very hot and stayed very hot. Also the batteries were not lasting as long as they have been and the last battery lasted only 2 minutes when they usually last 10-15 and were fully charged. Both symptoms have only appeared today and I think my ESC's have died but I'm not sure if they should have lasted longer. If they have died I will be buying the multistar 30amp ESC's.
it does sound like you're esc's has died. the fact that they were getting very hot might mean that you were pulling more amps then the esc could handle, I would recommend using a watt meter to make sure you buy the correct esc next time. The answer to you're question is yes you're esc's should have lasted longer
I recently bought the Great Planes model airplane Silloutte es was as Rimfire Motor Park 400 and a Speed **Control of ElectriFly, thought he had a little motor to do 3D maneuvers, ai changed all this together to the motor Turnigy SK3-2830-1020KW, with a speed Control Turnigy Plush 25 A and with a battery of 3S Zippy Compact 1000Mha, the model has improved 100% with this set was excellent, now do 3D maneuvers without any concern and that's the most important.
Many have successfully built stable quads with the Plush ESCs without changing any of the program settings. You might want to change the battery cut-off type to Ni-xx and cut-off voltage to Low though. Besides this, set the throttle range for all the ESCs. Having done all of this, your ESCs should be ready to use. What's your FC? Maybe there is a problem over there?
thats ok i am going to build one and i will use it. hey what do you think of the blue series 30amp?3bec esc 2s-4s with atmega chip for flashes and upgrades? is that a little better or?
does this 25A plush really NEED to be programmed prior to my quad use with 1500kv turnigy motors. can i assume that the defaults settings of the factory is good to go or not ?
i can not even make my quad hover even after multiple PID settings and successful throttle range tests from the tx.
the quad is very unstable and i already broke 4 1045 props.
help.
im now waiting for my programmable card which is a pain in the neck. programming this esc using the tx is very very hard.
Hi Gil
You don't need to program the ESCs but it your multirotor has more then one brand of ESC. That might cause a problem as they are not spinning at the same speed as the others . Try calibrating ever ESC separately via your Rx one by one . Then when you power the multirotor all die beeps from ESCs should be in sync .
Hope you come right . I know how frustrating it can be
ardidrones,
all of my 4 esc were the same turnigy plush 25A and all of them successfully gone thru the throttle range test using my tx and all of them have the same beeping sounds but the quad is still very unstable using multiwii fc 328p aven after mag and acc were fully calibrated.
u mean u did not program your plush 25a using either prog card or your tx and you had no problem with them for a quad ?
Plug each ESC wire into your Rx port 3 then throttle up the motors one by one like that and keep your hand in the are under the motor if you feel a lot of vibration you know the prop is in balanced . Losses the prop turn it 10mm tighten and test again until the vibration is gone or better . If the vibration is still there try adding a small piece of electrical Tula to one side of the prop and see if vibration is better or worse , do this with all props individually and try fly then again . The problem us if your props are vibrating. And you have your controller mounted in the frame without vibration dampers then the vibration feeds back into the gyro of the controller and makes the problem worse . So the less vibration the better !
Don't know that 25 is the limit but the foil runs cand only handle so much current. Have "heard" of the foil run not being able to carry the current.it would be my assessment that where the 3.5 mm connector solders on it could get hot and the foil tear or burn away from the pcb. I was under the assumption 25 was fine 40 was iffy. Ymmv.
It will not work. When flight controller sends signal to ESC one motor will rotate faster or slower than others. Certain way to crash your quad. Hope this helps.
I disagree. As long as you have one ESC for each motor and each ESC is equal to or greater than the amp draw from the motor, you're good to go. The amp rating on the ESC has nothing to do with motor speed.
What is more important is that the ESC are the same brand and make. Otherwise they will respond slightly different to the throttle signals and that will cause imbalance of the quad. So if all are the same except for the max current, you should be fine!
It still will not work. There's a dependense between incoming signal from controller and ESC output. It differs from brand to brand from model to model, so you can't just buy 3 turnigy plush and one HK or whatever. It's better to have all ESC same model same amp and to have spare ESC just for sure. Sometimes in one model line two ESC works differently (sheet happens :)_). It's OK to drive a real car with one different wheel, but it's not OK for a flying device, especially heavy duty device. It can work for a cheap toy. But it's too risky anyway.
LMFAO moisha01 too funy please record this for everyone it will serve us all on what not to do. it will be great!!! i for one cant wait i hopr your not truly attatched to this beautiful machine! hahalol. your makin my night i need to see the first flight but it has to really br the first!! it will never fly prfect in any way it cannot unless you use a decent gyro this could comprehend signals and fluctuations its posible but would be improbable and its much easier to use 3 identical for throtle response to lift equally it must be timmed exactly the same that is accomplished already when you have 3 identical. hope you make a video somone will learn and somone will be taught i want to see!!
*tommy.....what the heck are you saying? You rarely make any sense and what does gyros have to do with what they are talking about? Strange....strange fellow you are.
Customer Reviews
Overall Rating
TX_Flyer
40 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
27 thumbs up!
I hooked my 25A Plush up to a 3s 2200mAh Zippy & Turnigy C2830 brushless outrunner and the ESC doesn't beep, doesn't start the motor, nothing. I can move the servos that are connected to the Rx, but I can't get any throttle response or the beeping that the manual references. Any thoughts on how to get my motor going, or why the ESC isn't beeping?
18 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
William Thesing
likes
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UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
20 thumbs up!
The newer version includes another plug which will connect to the charge port of your Lipo for pack monitoring (low voltage protection). This is not shown in the photo. It is not mandatory to connect this. Unfortunately I cannot use these in my GWS 38 due to the size and extra . I will reserve this pair for other projects or replacement in existing planes. The photo should be updated, as the extra wiring causes more space limitations and should not be cut off.
5 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
madmike8
37 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
20 thumbs up!
I bought 2 of these to put into 2 HK450 Heli's with KD KA450H motors and Zippy 3s 2200 battery. One smoked on the first flight. The other has been performing perfectly. It was very easy to program with the programming card that Hobby City also sells. I think I just got one that was a dud.
good esc but some problem with programmable option. sometimes it's reset or don't power up in proper condition.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
Vasikn
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
17 thumbs up!
This esc is really good. Compared to other china-made esc is really much better. Lots of very useful programmable options. Better throttle curve etc.
On the other hand it has a little problematic startup with my motor POT 200W. I tried every possible setting, but even with the one with best results i crashed due to the fact that motor went out of synchronism with esc. Czech made esc i used before were always ok.
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