900MHZ 1500mW Tx/Rx & 1/3-inch CCD Camera NTSC 520TVL
12 Channel 900Mhz Tx/Rx video system with CCD camera. A powerful 1.5W (1500mW) powered Tx! Unlike other generic systems, we have produced a wiring loom and included it with the camera so that the Tx and camera will be compatible and on the same voltage. If you buy your camera and Tx seperately the plug polarity and voltages may be very different.
Included. 1 x SONY CCD 1/3inch Camera 1 x 900Mhz 8 channel Video Transmitter (1500mW)
1 x 900Mhz 12 channel Video Receiver
Image device: 1/3-inch Sony super HAD color CCD Pixel: 752 x 582(NTSC) Synchronization: Internal synchronization Horizontal resolution: 520TV Lines Minimum Illumination: 0.1Lux/F1.2 S/N Ratio: Greater than 48dB(AGC OFF/B/W OFF) White balance: Auto Tracking White Balance Auto backlight compensation: On/OFF switchable Lens: 3.6-6mm Input voltage: DC12V Electric current: 80MA±5MA Electronic Shutter: Auto PAL: 1/50 to 1/100,000 seconds Video output: 1.0Vp~p75Ω Operation Temp.: -10~+50 Size: 38 x 38mm Power supply: 12V/150mA
Anxiously ran out and picked up two 3S 1300mAh batteries, charged them and plugged everything in... no video signal
Both the Tx and Rx are on the same channel. Tried it in my laptop via a USB TV tuner and also tried directly to my TV.
Has anyone had any experience with this setup before? I mean, it doesn't appear to be complicated, so I don't think I am doing anything wrong.
Only thing I notice is the back of the camera gets very hot/warm.
I have plugged all my gear in to test it and was extremely careful to check everything (antenna, temperature etc)before connecting the Lipoly 3S battery to it. It worked for about 30 seconds max and now won't do anything. Have tried all 3 channels. Listing says it has 8 channels but it only has 3. I highly suspect its the TX that is the problem. I just want the stupid thing to work. Please help.
Turns out the camera got fried due to overheating so I bought some heatsinks and 2 tiny fans and would never run this gear without them. I will be using my GoPro camera for FPV now. I ADVISE EVERYONE TO USE HEATSINKS AND FANS ON THIS PRODUCT.
I tried replying to the overheating post but had problems. My suggestion is from my past experience as an electronics tech and not directly with this product. The overheating issue may be caused by an under voltage supply which sometimes causes an increase in current to make up for the loss of power. A lot of 12 volt devices are actually rated for ~13.8v automotive use so a 4s battery may work better.
Got the cam test it but displayed a white screen, after making the swap of red n white wires had no picture, I put it back again and it worked great but when I turn it off and turn it on again it displayed the white screen again, I checked the silver capacitor on the cam no wires touching, I remade the hole hardness, checked all welding s, power input flat 12Volts and still white on display in the TV and on the Laptop,... I don't know what is going on... has someone had this issue????
i have the 900mhz 1500mw and i use a "v" antenna on the vtx ( on the plane) and a flat patch on the ground.
it is very clear video even at 20km los.
but there are many factors that will affect the quality and distance .. like component layout, and rf noisy electronics . try to separate the vtx from things in the plane. i have mine mounted near the tail. and my receiver mounted in the wing.. the rest of the electronics are in the nose .. hope this helps !
I'm new to the FDV world. I have seen several FDV system that have built in telemetry on its videos display. Does this FDV system come with telemetry? Do I need a GPS module to have telemetry built in the display?
What kind of connector is used in the VTX antenna unit? I'm planning to buy a low pass filter to avoid interference with 2.4GHz radio control system, but I need to be sure of what kind of connector is used.
The filter I'm looking for has a description which says it has SMA connectors, doens't say anything regarding polarity.
Thank you in advance.
My Transmitter gets extremely hot. So hot it can't be handled. I removed the outer case but obviously it still gets as hot. I was thinking of fitting a suitable heatsink but I've never seen anyone having to do this before. There are no faults because the picture quality is outstanding with the 600 line camera. Whilst flying even with cooling air I can imagine the TX burning through any foam it comes in contact with. What do you guys use to keep the TX cool? Has anyone tried using 7.4 volts (2s)to keep the heat down? Any ideas appreciated, thanks.
There are others saying exactly the same. HK won't touch it, I purchased it last year. It can't be a 'dude" as the picture is perfect. I'm sure if it was a dud I wouldn't be saying that. Some people are too quick to write something off when they don't understand it. Personally I'd rather find a cure. 1500 mw output is too much for the size of the unit but it can't be judged by the photo alone. I assure you my connections are spot on. 30 years as a amateur radio operator has taught me a little. I simply wanted to know if anyone else had the same problem and what they did about it. I do have a few ideas but it would help if someone had been down the same road.
In that case, I think you have to contact te manufacture and see what you can do to cure the heat issue. Are you using the supplied antennae? 1.5 watts going into the air will quickly build up heat if it is not transmitted.... My only other suggestion would be to look at an antennae that would tx 100% the 1.5 watt signals. From thermal dynamics....as I recall anything over 4 watts will need heat sinkers... So can you do some measurements for me? What's the current draw when it's operating? Also if possible...the Signal strength in db at the output. With that we could figure out if the heat is produced because of frequency switching or because of heat from a bad antennae.
Well... Looks like you need to mount it outside... I have Mine mounted on a HK 450 where the battery is supposed to go along with the radio gear and BEC. I poked a hole to allow te antennae through the front of the canopy and it made it appear like a unicorn dolphin lOoking thing. But it all worked out good.
I think outside is the only option. It won't be flown in rainy or misty conditions so that won't be a problem. I might fit a switch to isolate everything until I'm ready to take off and kill it as soon as it lands. I've just purchased a fantastic video recorder which will mount in the fuselage so I might even leave the transmitter out for a while. I'm not really wanting to break any records with long distance. I(n fact I'm rather fed up with FPV. Everyone is doing it and just about every video made is either FVP or quad copters. I do like to get aerial footage though and using a good quality recorder will give a much better picture than a transmitted one. I'm rather fed up with looking for a maiden or near first run of a new plane I'm considering buying only to find it's a woeful droppy picture withy a bloody great prop in the shot instead of shots of the plane itself. Actually the impedance of the antenna should be 52 ohms but none of my SWR meters have the required connectors and I haven't seen adapters for them. So it's rather hard to tune them. I may get the GDO out and use it. If the temperature won't come down it's a mod or get rid of it. It's so darned hard turning my bed into a full blown workshop every day. Gorilla glue and CA on the blankets is a sore point with the missusat the moment.
Hahaha I hear you... Projects like this is fun. I havnt done quads yet... But I'd sure be willing to tackle that later on. I missed the beer lift contest... Was actually planing to make a quad for that purpose. Anyways FPV is the new thing I guess...kinda like how suddenly all those buddies with time on their hands all a sudden because protographers when they have a cannon or Nikon strap on their neck.... Sheesh that trend literally kicked in under a month.
1500mW isn't this a bit overkill, and 900MHz is illegal in the UK and may suffer from interference from 3G networks. I thought my 5.8HGz 600mW setup was pushing it. I guess this is for people who need to fly very long range and not living on these shores.
Normally no problem between 2.4ghz and 900 mhz, it's the reason to choose this frequency to continue flying on 2.4.
For better video, but less range choose 5.8 vtx vrx system, plus add the cloverleaf antenna and you'll get more than 1 mile(1.6km) range.
Thanks for reply Norman. Cloverleaf antenna's price between $30 - 40. Low pass filter for 900- 1200 mhz $30-40. It's the same www.link If 900 mhz has no signal interuption with GSM signal it seems more logical.
Camera not working ?
to save alot of issues with people messing up their cameras the provided wiring harnesses are not compatible with the cameras provided, and as stated in below postings ,the purchaser will need to do a small modification (or at least check this) for the camera to work, by swapping the red (power) and white (video signal) wires .. so when looking at the back of the camera board and having the 3 pin connector socket at the bottom. the colors from left side to the right side should be in this order " white (left)..... black (middle).... red (right)" if so the probability for success is in your favor
Thanks tracr, I fixed my camera per your instruction. Bought this set 3 month ago and never had to use it until now. Plugged the camera to tx and battery. Every got so hot on the back of the camera board. It burnt my fingers when I touched it. I knew something wrong. Why would scew up on something like this. It could have messed the camera.
HiTracr...I follow your instructions but this camera doesn't work.. I am trying to get video on laptop .. I am using USB 2.0 TV box for conversion at receiver end.. I only get black black screen on my laptop. kindly help me regarding this issue ....
most 12v vtx modules are rated as follows:
with a true power output rating of 1100-1300mW
this is a general guide !!
12V 28dBm (Best with minimal air cooling needed)
13V 28.7dBm not recomended
14V 29.5dBm VERRY hot dont do it !!!!
with the increase in voltage theres an increase in temp . they do need to be cooled by the wind .. heat = bad !
the hotter they are the less efficient they are at transmitting.
just be cautious of the unit getting too hot !
in the past i have had resistors melt off due to heat (other diy projects)
if it doesnot get hot, there may be something wrong. it should atleast get very warm within minits at 11.1v and no air cooling ! even the smaller 200mw get warm
i'll keep a check on it but it seems fine. i was just using it to see if it had any range... it did ok but not what i expected for 1500mw.. my 200 5.8 beat it hands down with stock whips. And it causes the Radio TX to be over run and glitch..
Great unit, i'm getting far more range than the 800mW verion, almost double the distance out in the open area before loss of signal occurred
2 comments. Reply..
Overall it's a great product but I gave it three stars because you MUST reconfigure the wire loom that supposedly works. Be sure to put a 5V voltage regulator on the Black (-) wire lead that goes to the camera since this is a 5V camera and not 12V. I fried mine and HK obviously doesn't care so I have to buy another one. Other than that problem everything is rock solid and it worked great when I tested it with my digital camera. The TX has a little bit of weight to it (3-4oz) so make sure you have a good FPV plane with a lot of lift to fly this on.
8 comments. Reply..
Great products but when I tried it, nothing was working! So I can't get it to work at all. It was my first order with you HK but you disapointed me a lot...:(