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This classic style race boat is built from laminated plywood and beautifully finished. It has two removable hatch panels that make accessing electronics and swapping batteries a breeze. It also features lightweight, extremely rigid carbon fiber sponson boom supports.
This boat is in kit form, which means you will need to add your own hardware such as rudder, propeller shaft/mount, propeller and electronics.
*Note: Above photos of assembled model are for reference only. This version will need to be assembled and arrives in flat pack form as shown in last photo. For pre-assembled version, please see related items below.
Those components are too bigh for the boat. The space in the main hull is very limited. The battery especially. You can only fit up to about 2600mAh battery in the hull. Rather use 2600mAh battery, 40A speed control and a suitable 3000kV motor.
What sort of glue would you use to make this kit set up. Mine is due soon and would like to know. Also what type of shaft system would be best used for this boat. Cheers
Hallo,
can somebody please post me a list of the hardware (link) I need to complete this boat?
I'm completely new to boats and want to try this one, but I'm not sure, what special rudder, shafts and prop I need.
If you are new to boats, do not build one of these types of boats. They are extremely fast, hardcore race boats that can be extremely unstable if not setup correctly. You are better off starting with either a V-hull, or a catamaran as they are easier to control and a lot more forgiving if you make a mistake.
Also worthy to note: Servo mount to bottom of tub is 15.8mm. So get a servo that is this or less. Otherwise it cant screw down properly. I ordered a Turnigy TGY-90S and its to tall to work at all.
Hobby King doesnt have anything that will work for drive line on this boat. NOBODY has the mystery strut that fits this. With the 400XL motor Im going to run a .130 cable and a 3/16" shaft stepped down to 1/8" propshaft. Kintec has a strut that should work for these. I should have mine in the next few days.
If you only want to drive right curves you should add a turnfin at the right sponson for better handling in curves
else you don´*t need to mount a turnfin
I am half way building this and was going to use the 4mm prop shaft (not flexi). But I am wandering whether it would be better to use a Flaxishaft. Having never used or fitted a flexishaft can anyone recommend a suitable inexpensive 1/8" or 4mm shaft.
So I got the sponsons partially assembled. I need to put the tops on them. I didnt use the supplied wood for the complex bend portion on the sides. I dont see how this will work. I substituted 1/32 plywood. I am going to glass these anyhow, so strength is not a big concern. One thing to note is I used the rods to align the wood together before gluing. This is a helpful tip!
All plywood is 2mm thick EXCEPT the tub sides which are 2.3mm thick. This thing is built heavy. No foam for the sponsons and no quick disconnect. Also no way to replace the carbon booms if they break. Some simple additions to make your rigger better and to last! Will be talking more ose!
Given there are only two holes to mount the strut I would guess this one:
HK-503B06
Its the same one used on the "Small Bolt". I have a small bolt and will be checking this out once my boat kit arrives.
Hole spacing is 20mm. 16.5mm from the bottom of the hull* transom. This takes into account the 2mm thick wood on the bottom.
IT DOES NOT FIT THE SMALL BOLT STRUT HK-503B06 as the bolt spacing is to narrow.
You can seal it with finishing epoxy or polyacrylic. Just make sure to do light coats and sand between. Even if you are going to paint it you need to seal the inside and outside. And when painting remember to use a primer first, and remember sand, sand, and more sanding!
A tip for making thin epoxy coats is to mix a few drops of denatured alcohol into your epoxy mix and stir, stir, stir... it will make it super fluid. Makes it very easy to apply super thin coats. Still sand between coats and I recommend at least 5 coats when thinned.
Wow, what an incredible price on this. Laser cutting looks good with not to many burn marks. I am going to assume that in building this you are going to have to supply foam for the sponsons, as you normally do not want them to be hollow, also to double up lite ply on the inside of one of the sponsons for the turn fin, just something to think anout when buying this.
People should also remember to sand ALL Edges that has been lasercut before attempting to glue them together, because if you dont then the glued SUrface may come apart agaon , i have access to 4 Laserplotters so i know. If you like this Info please let me get rewarded... thank you
It looks like no one has noticed that the offset for the drive line is on the wrong side of the tub..Just thought I would bring that to your attention..Wouldn't take much work to fix..Still would be a good buy for that price..
John
Hi ppl, nice kit to start in Speed boats, you can run more than 100kmh on 3s like this Predator based in balsa made by me. 5 stars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER3gmk4fdf0
Hello, guys!
How do you think of this setup for H:
Feigao 380S - 5224 kv.
Octura transmission.
Seaking 60A controller.
2S Lipo 2200 mA.
Thank you for your help!
A www.link
Kauft es lieber fertig. Selbst zusammenkleben is n bissl schwierig.
Customer Reviews
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Basstronics2
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Hey Hobby King, we want a STRUT for this hull. Nobody can do much with all these hulls without the hardware!
2mm ply except tub sides which are 2.3mm. The design is heavy. No foam cores for the sponsons. Sponsons are permanently attached with current design. Design will make it difficult to make sponsons removable. Holes already in transom- bad thing when you cant get the right strut!
I would like to build 3-4 of these in total to encourage others to boat in my area.
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4/20/2013 Sam
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nice kit
fun to build and very simple to build
i will keep you posted to how it goes and what i end up running in the boat in the way of hard wear
i will buy another kit as a 2nd boat
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6/2/2013 jim
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Part 1
Well upon opening the box I was very impressed with cut quality and overall quality of the plywood. Some of the laser work needed an xacto to pop free though, but fit and finish seems to be dead on. Ill post another review once I finish the build with all my hardware used and tuning tips.
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