Turnigy® dlux SBEC ESCs have set a new bench mark in quality and performance. Each ESC uses a twin PCB design separating the motor power supply, MCU and SBEC. This design allows for optimum component layout on each PCB and provides the ideal configuration for heat dissipation and thermal efficiency. Both PCBs are enclosed in a full aluminum heat sink casing to ensure maximum heat dispersion. All Turnigy dlux ESCs can be programmed via a programing card or by transmitter. Clear and easy to understand instructions are included.
*Now featuring data logging viewable when used with Turnigy dlux programming box.
Data logging display parameters: Max Temperature Environment Temperature Max Current Min Current Max Voltage Min Voltage Nominal Voltage Off Voltage Motor Run Time Power on Time Motor Pole Number Max Motor RPM Error Times
Spec. Max Cont. Current: 70A Max Burst Current: 85A Max BEC Current: 3A BEC Voltage: 5.5v LiPo: 2~6S NiMH: 5~16cells Weight: 84grams Max RPM (2-pole): 200,000rpm Size: 69 x 33 x 23mm Motor Plug: Female 4mm bullet Connection Battery Plug: Nil
Features. Extremely low internal resistance Very low operation temperature Over temperature protection APEC MoSfets (Taiwain)
Programming Options. Battery Type: 2S~6S Forward/Reverse Soft Start LV Cut off Type (Ignore, Reduce Power, Stop Motor) LV Cut off setting (2.5~3.5v in 0.1v increments) Timing (Auto, Very Low, Low, Normal, High, Very Hgh) Switching (8,16kHz) Factory Restore Active RPM Control: On/Off (Governor Mode)
Default factory settings. Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor) Timing: Auto Frequency: 8KHz
Note: Programming box now available, check the related items below. Always keep your phase wires as short as possible, or ESC will lose timing/stutter.
My Turnigy Dlux 70a ESC was acting up earlier this week. I picked it up on the audio file. Jim, from Uthere found the data in the flight data flie (attached). Also, I have included the YouTUbe link so you can hear it. Have a listen and let me know what you think? Could it be the ESC timing? Thoughts?
See the detail here: *******fpvlab****/forums/showthread.php?16157-Turnig y-Dlux-70-ESC-Malfunction
I have this controller with the dlux programming box!
Can you explain me thise two things,
what das soft start mean? (i can see a differenc?)
and that dose timing (Automatic, mdeium, high)
and Acceleration (Low, Medium, High) mean?
I have the Hextronik Programing Box V0242 and a this ESC version E070103.
The programing box gives:
Operation mode: Heli - Air craft
under Heli operation mode the options are:
- Under Voltage
- Soft Start
- Battery Type
- Number of cells
- Li/Lipo cut off
- off voltage
- Switch frequency
- Temp Protection
- Restore defaults
And under Air craft mode:
continues the same as heli mode.
The problem is: I cannot disable the governor in the heli operation mode, instead I switch to air craft mode, but the soft start in that mode is useless, I cannot get the same soft start as in Heli mode.
Is there any way to disable the governor in the heli operation mode? The governor is useless too. The transition between 2 presetted rpms is so hard that the gyro is unable to maintain the head in position.
I think they ruined this product with the firmware I have.
I've been using this esc in my hk500cmt. I've logged most flights and max temp is really high. It reads anywhere from 90 to 94 celcius and that is a lot of heat. Max current 34A. Motor is warm.
My set up, 1300kv turnigy motor, 17T pinion, 6S 2200mah zippy, stock GF blades, pitch /- 12 degrees, thro curve 0, 60, 80, 90, 100 (idle up 96 flat curve), solar servos, futaba s9257, ga-250 gyro, sport flying only. Maybe i have a defective ESC? Or is this type of heat normal?? Thanks for your help.
Hi guys. Had this esc for a bit now. Works brilliant! Except my landing skills :( I need to get rid of the undercarriage cos I keep smashing them off on landings. I have a massive 11" prop on a home made spad pane which flies awesome 3d.
My friend says on his park fliers that on his esc the prop always stops in the horizontal position to avoid prop strike when throttle is off. I haven't enabled the brake yet on my plane, but is this possible with this esc to hold my prop horizontal for belly landings? Thanks
So, being new to the Brushless world (for aircraft) and since the manual available for download is well... basic. I need to know how the BEC works in this speed control. I assume the plug that goes from the speed control to the receiver uses the small red wire to give the system 5v.
So, I'm going to run a 22v Lipo pack in my plane. With this over-volt (or amp) the receiver? or is the DC to DC converter good enough to lower the voltage and amperage? I really don't want to fry my receiver.
Is there an actual wiring diagram for this unit anywhere?
I also assume that removing the red wire from the plug disables the BEC?
Thanks for all your help!
Output voltage of BEC is independent of input voltage (full voltage of pover battery). It will be 5v with any cells number. Plug speed controller to your 6s and have 5v at thin red wire in jack, which going to receiver.
In case, if you use an external BEC, you must disconnect a red wire from speed controller to avoid overcurrent of two BECs, connected in parallel.
Thank you Anton! I'm totally excited to finally go Brushless. I've been a die hard Nitro guy from the start. I bought a Traxxas Slash and saw the raw power of the Brushless system and decided to try it out. The quality of this low priced speed control is unmatched! Can't wait to try out the Data Logging and Programming box.
Just got this with a NTM Prop Drive Series 42-58 500kv / 1300w and a Rhino 4000mAh 6S2P 25C Lipoly Pack. I go to hook the Lipo to the ESC and it sparks. Is this normal? I mean big spark like weld the wire to the connector type. And yes, the polarity is correct. I thought you wouldn't see a spark because of no throughput to the motor.... Or is this totally normal?
I'm a little scared of Lipoly packs bursting into flame *)
I think, that is normal phenomenon. Spark means, than a capacitor is charging at the commutation moment. Just in case, check that is no heating at no-load and be calm. For absolutely certainity measure the no-load current. Tens of milliamperes is O'K.
Cannot enter into setup mode with RC, tried even increase throttle range from -100 to -102. The dlux programmig box (ver.4.1) connects well but i cant find the governor on/off option, other options are ok. Help!
Was flying today and motor started having rpm "wave" sort of pulsing after about 8 minutes of flying. landed and motor was cool... as far as I know I have it all programed right for my battery cells, poles and so on... however there is limited airflow where the esc is, would over heating of the esc cause this pulsing rpm? or is there some setting I should change
im useing the dlux 70 amp on my 500. i have a programmer.but havent needed yet.i love the dlux series e.s.c i have 3 40 amps 4 50amps and 2 70 amps.they all work perfect a little heavy but.but super sanitary.and high quality
hey kinshas.i was looking through my stuff and noticed my turnigy 2 in 1 professional program box has a u.s.b port and a cable for your pc.looking at the directions i think this was what your looking for..
I just installed my New 70a-sbec esc in my HK500, but it emits no sounds and the motor don't run. All the servos and the gyro works perfectly. Can any one help me this problem?
My Setup :
Turnigy 2.65Amp Batery 22.2 Volts
Turnigy Typhoon 500H Heli Motor 1800kv
This may be because of the throttle hold setting. If you are not at low throttle, the ESC will not arm but the BEC is still enabled. Try to get low throttle down when you have initial powrer-on to arm the ESC.
Well...kinda. If she doesn't "sing" through the motor on power up, she has a problem. That means she has lost a phase on the motor. The beeps are actualy voltages sent to the motor from the ESC, the "tones" come from the motor. Check your solder joints at the motor (BOTH SIDES ESC & MOTOR) connection, these are prone to breaking and can be resoldered, if these look good, then try a different motor on her, if it "sings" then it isn't the ESC. Motor problems are less frequent but do sometimes happen. My bet is that you have a cold solder joint somewhere in the motor connections...
connections are very temperamental with brushless systems It might seem well connected but if the solder is not perfect or the fit with connectors is not solid or corrosion even grease in them will stop it from working Sometimes you even need to hardwire it to be reliable
Switch-mode or "switching" voltage regulators switch the power on and off very fast to regulate the average voltage. This is them smoothed out by capacitors to produce an acceptable supply for the target components. A Linear voltage regulator uses resistance to reduce voltage. A switch-more regulator tends to produce more "electrical noise" but a linear regultator generates more heat and is less efficient.
Has anyone else noticed that when stick programming this thing the tones do not seem to coincide with the manual? Just trying to set soft start but it seems to go through steps 1,2,3, then starts emitting tones I dont see anywhere in manual, then 6, then some more unrecognized stuff??? Im not an expert at reading music but its definately not in order....
Yes, the tones do not coincide with the manual but options coincide with points in a manual. Simply count them one after another specified in a manual and all becomes clear. Developers are bad with musical notation...
I think I found out why my ESC is cutting off when using 2836 3200kv with 5.0x5.0 APC on 4S => 60A, 12.8V, 768W.
The default cutoff voltage is 3.2V per cell. Question: how do I program a lower value without the programme box????
I am using 45C 2200mAh Nano (99A constant, 198A burst) which should be more than enough. Most ESCs come default medium cutoff threshold of 2.75V. I ran all my plush ESCs medium cutoff and none of by batteries are damaged. 3.2 volt as default is too high!
I'm using with a 2836 3700kv and a 3200kv. On 4.1x4.1 APC 4S I am pulling 61 Amps and 44 Amps. However I cant increase prop size as this ESC switches off at anything above 65 Amps!!!! It does not get warm at all. Tried different timing and frequency settings. Nothing.... Any idea, apart from ditching it (haha)?
Timing is when the esc fires the pulse to the coils, leaving it on default usually works fine. Some of the larger low KV motors will need to have timing adjusted and you can tell you need to do that when the motor appears to be sputtering when trying to accelerate.
Just bought one of these to put in my eflite extra 300. Yes it does look like a CC esc. Went for the faster shipping so will report back soon.
2 comments. Reply..
I received this yesterday. I'm using it to run a 2836 3700kv . So far I've only used a 4.1x4.1 prop. WOT static test with 3S it didn't break a sweat. No heat felt at all. I'll try with 4S when that order arrives.
The ESC seems well constructed, and has large gauge wire to battery and to motor. 4mm bullet plugs to motor, battery wires are tinned and ready to solder to your favorite plug.
It might look like a CC in the pic, but not so much in person. If it had data logging I'd buy a dozen.
4 comments. Reply..
ESC reçue il y a quelques jours, la finition est superbe, ça a l'air très solide et très bien refroidi. Je suis très content de mon achat.
Pour le moment ce contrôleur fonctionne sur une funjet, avec un turnigy 3530 1700kv, et une lipo 4S 2200mha 45C. Je tire 40A en à fond, l'esc est froide ce qui est normale.
Je compte par la suite la monter sur un Cap 10 d'air loisir 1m50 d'envergure avec un turnigy SK 4250 650kv.
Je posterai un message pour vous dire si l'esc chauffe avec 60A.
great SBEC, looks stunning on the heli, nice big bulky casing, well built and again an ideal SBEC for a first budget build, progammable and perfect for begginer usage and expert usage, great product...