Turnigy® dlux SBEC ESCs have set a new bench mark in quality and performance. Each ESC uses a twin PCB design separating the motor power supply, MCU and SBEC. This design allows for optimum component layout on each PCB and provides the ideal configuration for heat dissipation and thermal efficiency. Both PCBs are enclosed in a full aluminum heat sink casing to ensure maximum heat dispersion. All Turnigy dlux ESCs can be programmed via a programing card or by transmitter. Clear and easy to understand instructions are included.
*Now featuring data logging viewable when used with Turnigy dlux programming box.
Data logging display parameters: Max Temperature Environment Temperature Max Current Min Current Max Voltage Min Voltage Nominal Voltage Off Voltage Motor Run Time Power on Time Motor Pole Number Max Motor RPM Error Times Spec. Max Cont. Current: 55A Max Burst Current: 67A Max BEC Current: 3A BEC Voltage: 5.5v LiPo: 2~6S NiMH: 5~16cells Weight: 81grams Max RPM (2-pole): 200,000rpm Size: 69 x 33 x 23mm Motor Plug: Female 4mm bullet Connector Battery Plug: Nil
Features. Extremely low internal resistance Very low operation temperature Over temperature protection APEC MoSfets (Taiwain)
Programming Options. Battery Type: 2S~6S Forward/Reverse Soft Start LV Cut off Type (Ignore, Reduce Power, Stop Motor) LV Cut off setting (2.5~3.5v in 0.1v increments) Timing (Auto, Very Low, Low, Normal, High, Very Hgh) Switching (8,16kHz) Factory Restore Active RPM Control: On/Off (Governor Mode)
Default factory settings. Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor) Timing: Auto Frequency: 8KHz
Note: Programming box now available, check the related items below.
another question, i hooked this up to my sk3 4240 740kv running on 3s (11x5.5e) no more than 18 amps max for bench testing and i noticed that it suddenly ***p starts the motor afterwards the motor runs fine and this ***p only happens when motor is throttled up from stationary. Is this normal as my arrowind esc is very smooth on start up.
Hobby King Support's Rich helped me get the dlux55's running. They are a little different to run than other ESC's I've used. And the dlux55's are a little different from the dlux70"s. I had to go up to the 70's because I changed props and the current draw was too high for the 55's. Long story short, follow the User Manual Normal start up instructions exactly. The dlux ESC's are really nice. My first programming box didn't work correctly* the second was fine.
Well I have six on my hex. All looks good so far, with the exception of the delicate connections to the exposed capacitors. I have had the opportunity to disassemble the damaged unit and found that the top half of the heat sink is glued to the board. I could not separate them. The physical size is kind of large due to the heat sink but the weight is not bad, at least for my beast.
Has the speed controler anyone ever opened / removed the heatsink?
I would buy the speed controler, but I want him to convert to water cooling. Has anyone perhaps pictures of naked speed controler?
I bought a used ElectroStik with this ESC included. However, it's been programmed for braking, and I have to re-tighten the prop after eery few flights due to the brake. Where can I find the directions to re-program this ESC?
Hi All, I’*m using this on my copterx 450, has anyone else noticed it’*s a bit jittery on start up? Doesn’*t seem to have any kind of soft start *.. Took a tinny chip out of my main blades as it spun up and hit the side of the blade clamps.
how fast its MCU real refresh rate? is it over 450Hz ?? any potential for this esc to be reflash witH better/new firmware,to achieve faster refresh rate?? tqvm for answer... what kind of MCU chip is inside? is it ATMEL/SILabs/else...??? pls respond,TQVM.
There are very few differences, apart from the look and a few programing features. They are all, without exception, very good. The one thing i will say is, be very carefull ordering anything from here. I've had to claim some money back now through Pp before the reclaim time ran out. I'd say if you can find these elsewhere, i would buy them!! Very good ESC's!!!!
I would replace them with low ESR capacitors of the same value and voltage. The Panasonic capacitors are highly rated in the audio and PC industry for their low ESR and longevity.
The main thing is to support them very well between the case and the battery wires. I prefer silicone adhesive as it is not sensitive to heat. Hot glue is.
The other thing is to prevent bending the capacitors legs while plugging and unplugging the battery plug. So enough silicone will help. Good luck and have many flights !
Black Rose and every one using this make of ESC's,
Check the legs of the 2 large capacitors between the battery wires. I just had 6 1/2 flights with the Dlux 55 Amp and lost a brand new plane. These capacitors, which are not supported physically, will brake theirs legs with vibrations. And when that happens, there is no more power going to the Rx. Do a search for pictures on the Net for "Brushless ESC" and you will see that 98 % of them have heat shrink or other form of physical support against vabrations.
Take care when soldering the capacitors, they are to close to the circuitery, so do it fast.
I can't help you to tell the exact capacitors it use, but for a simple process, use the stock ones, and fix them with hot glue. It will prevent breaks for vibrations.
I bought this esc and i expect it to work fine, my 40a sentry got smashed in a crash.
My question, there is no ferrite bead or ring on the throttle, is it built in or should I add one for extraneous signals ? Any info help full.
I bought a few of these for a project to drive KDA63-24L's but the motors only shutter at low speed. I am just testing my setup with a servo tester as a throttle, and no load on the motor. I can get the motor/esc to "sync" by adding some drag, or spinning it in the driven direction, but it's very inconsistent. I had the same problem with 25A TY-P1 ESC, and a 100A Dlux. .
However my 40A SuperBrain runs the motor just fine, no matter the settings (soft start, timing, PWM rate, etc.) This Dlux will turn my smaller motor no problem, and I've used multiple motors, ESC'sm and batteries to eliminate connection or manufacturing issues. Any thoughts or help? Is there a possibility of changing the programming on the microcontroller?
what kind of connectors are you using? sounds like there`s a bad connection from esc to the motor, it must be solderd on. and if you have shortened the cables for any reason you must remove the cobber layer.
I bought this unit myself. Very good SBEC! It comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors (to connect to the motor) and you have to supply and solder on the connector to the battery. This comes preprogramed (so you can use it right out of the box), however you can change it (if you want to) with your transmitter. I hope this helps you.
I have this SBEC as well. Go to programing mode (turn on transmitter with full throttle). Plug in SBEC, wait for tones to play, then reduce throttle to zero. The SBEC now has the full throttle range, you are good to go. Hope this helps you out.
Well in fact i managed to do it clear. First I have reset the ESC with factory settings and then adjusted the starting point with subtrim (about 25%) and all is clear. When I tried with the trim the ESC worked one time but refused to restart.
i have received mine days ago, having trouble on how to make the throttle works normal by using transmitter, everytime i try it, its only vibrate my motor, and it gets hot fast and also esc gets hot quick, would anyone kindly enough to help me out? in short i really need help on how to program this esc by using transmitter only, thanks...
I will be receiving mine in the next few days so I will be able to give a definate answer on the setup. But first I have noticed that a lot of people have trouble setting up esc on the remote because they change the internal remote settings. First try resetting the throttle/esc channel on the remote to neutral or factry settings, if you can't do this just reset that particular model selection in the remote to the factory setting. Unfortunately the second option will cause the whole model presets
Sounds like you have a short circuit between two phases of the controller. Are you sure it comes from the ESC (do you have another esc to try on your motor ?) ? I say that because I got the same problem with a turnigy trust and after double checking, I found that it was a motor mounting screw which got into contact between two wires.
If not, then it may be a timing problem because this kind of esc make use of the FEM from the motor but it only work at high speed, so the ESC has first to start t
I had one HK blue series worked for 5 to 10 flights and after that it showed the same characteristics like you ESC. Could be a factory defective one. even though all the programming options work it gets hot when you try to fly with it. Also the motor only vibrates and get pretty hot. www.link
not realy , you gain a little more then th plush ,but this sbec is unreal i had my katana over amped at 78 amps sbec got warm bid not smoke pop or stop i recomed this ese to you you will love it . wieght not that bad at all abought the same as the 60 amp plush reminds me of the castel about the same wieght this weighs a littal less i over amp my 55 at ovey 75 amps just got warm any other sbec would have smoked . extreemly easy to program with trnsmitter work with your plane no problem ese a littal fat but built to last you'll love it un real ese .
on mine the brake was ingaged but changing tunning off brake a ease easyer the the programe card from plush i recomend ese will work grate for you plane im getting 3 more 55 amp to the 100amp allsom ese
See the pic in the files section this is too big for small applications and heavier too. File name is no named one. sorry I forgot to set a file name when I upload the file.
just recieved ese unbeliveable . was putting on my katanna was extremly over amp at 78 amps over 1587 watts of power no poping no smoking got warm , but took it with no problem . very easy to programe with transmitter the brake was on when i recieved sbec very easy to change best ese i ever had you,ll love it a littal big but built like a rock comes aready with 4 mm bullet conectors no need to soider pushing 75 amp extreem overage bid not smoke unbelievable recomend to annyone but don recomen letting go that far over for flight .but it will take every bit of the 67 amp without problem dose not get hot just a littal warm ran at 67 for two min grate job hk going to get 2 70 and the 55 grate ese
No comments. Reply..
I've bought 2 of these now, and have just ordered 2 of the 70amp versions as well.
I'm running this one in my HK Extra 260 with a 35/48 Aeolian motor. So far this is the best ESC i've owned ... runs cool as, and gives really smooth throttle response.
Get a couple you won't be sorry.
2 comments. Reply..
I received this ESC last week and installed it on my HK450. Over the weekend I put it through it's paces and this ESC performed perfectly. It is very easy to program and once set up it performed flawlessly. I have ordered another one and will now use this for all my ESC needs. I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a quality, well priced ESC.
1 comment. Reply..
great esc for the price, plenty of power and doesn't get hot. ended up buying another one i was so happy with this.
No comments. Reply..
Received this item a few days ago, and was surprised at the quality. I put it together with a Ray C 35-42 motor and a 3s 2650mah 30-40C battery. Ran at WOT for a few minutes. Didn't even get warm. Need to get a watt meter to give more results.