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Designed for planes only, the H-KING ESC are an excellent choice for any plane requiring linear, sharp and reliable throttle response on a 50A ESC. H-KING speed controllers have strict end-of-line QC testing and are SMT (Pick-n-Place) in the same room as the through-hole soldering(wires, capacitor) and packaging is done. Improving quality and reducing contamination and inconsistencies due to transportation. The H-KING Speed Controller includes a 2A BEC (Battery Elminator Circuit) to power your receiver, there is no need to have a seperate receiver battery. The H-KING range of ESC are both economic and reliable. They are pre-setup with LiPo and auto cell detection so you can just plug it in and fly!
hey all i have just recently bought the radjet 800 i have the stock motor in it and am running a 30 amp hk speedy and 4s 1800 50c i am wondering it this speedy will run wit a turnigy 2200kv motor and 4s 1800 wit a 5*5 4*5 prop cheers heaps
Naw, I've had enough of this one. Different brand is in the mail and ill save these for planes on 2.4. But thanks anyways. I was just wondering if anyone else had the same issue.
Anyone using this with 72mhz control? I'm almost 100% sure that its causing my motor to pulse on and off on its own. I own two and they both behave the same. Worked great on 2.4ghz.
THANK´*S HIBRAHIM I TRY WHAT YOU SAY BUT STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. I TRY THE ESC WHIT ANOTHER TRANSMITTER AND THE ESC WORKS OK.
THANK´*S MARVIN I TRY YOU SAY ,I STILL HAVE THE PROBLE.
ok now check your throttle curves bro, your throttle curves seems to be setup incorrectly on the transmitter u r using with it. let me know if that helps or not. also let me know ur throttle curves too.
I HAVE A PROBLEM WHIT THIS 50A H.KING ESC, WHEN I PULL UP THE THROTTLE LEFT STICK THE ELECTRIC MOTOR NO RUN, BUT WHEN I PULL DOWN THE STICK THE MOTOR START TO RUN .I REVERSE THE 3 CHANEL AND STILL HAVE HTE PROBLEM. I DON´*T KNOW HOW TO CHANGE THE STICK RUN THE MOTOR WHEN PULL UP I HAVE ANOTHER ESC ANY PROBLEM WHEN A RUN THE MOTOR I DON´*T UNDERESTAND . THANKS. MY TRANSMITTER IS EFLY-6CIII ART-TECH
well have you set the throttle range settings ? if not, then try this, first unplug the motor from the esc, then slide the throttle stick to the top ( FULL THROTTLE ) then turn on the transmitter and then power up the esc, esc will beep twice after two beeps immediately lower the throttle to the bottom ( zero throttle ) and then the esc will beep once then turn off the esc and transmitter, then plug in the motor wires to the esc, turn on the transmitter and then turn on the heli/plane and then try if the motor works now.
If your rado is a futab there are 2 options one for glow or gas and the other for electric you need to change the throttle option to motor and then reverse it.
It doesn't mention anywhere in the manual the timing and there is no way of changing it either,should imagine it has auto timing pre-set which will suit most standard outrunner motors.
I plan to use this esc in my Bixler 2 with 6 servos. 2 of these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem .asp?idProduct=31582
for rudder and elevator.
And 4 of these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem .asp?idProduct=31574
on flaps and aileron.
Is the BEC OK with 2Amps with these servos?
I connect ESC correctly, but it beeps every 40 - 50 seconds. Just a short beep, like it has no signal from receiver, I use spektrum AR 6200. Anyone know what's wrong?
That's normal, just warning you that motor is armed, it doesn't beep while motor is spinning, I've been using about 6 months in my 60" WS home made Twinax jet without any problem.
i also ve another one with no mods and with the supplied bec on a funcub with turnigy park480 1020kv, 9x7 masterairskrew ,2.65 3s turnigy nano:34A 381W, with 6! servos(4 9gram,2 17grams)over 100 flights! and the turnigy 50A stands strong!
hello, i ve this esc, one thing only :It is very capable for 60A ! I ve this (i ve put a heatsink over the excisting1 and a seperate sbec)in a funjet with turnigy 2836 3700kv 2200 3s bat prop apc4.7x4.25 59A,apc5.5x4.5 76A!!!More than 20 flights with the 5.5x4.5 with no problems BUT today i ve tried to change settings for brake and the esc frozed:( i managed to unfrozen it by getting in to menu with 2s bat this time!unfortunately since then i cant get it work full power if i ve it in the lipo set from the menu.it works full power only in Licad/limh menu set but i m afraid of destroying my lipo bat cause in this setting it wont cut off even if the bat goes under 9v :(....
Geia!Mporeis panta na xrisimopoiiseis to voltage alarm buzzer"Hobbyking 2-8S Cell Checker with Low Voltage Alarm" pou exei arketa dunato o ixo kai mporeis na ruthmiseis sta posa volt na arxisei na varaei wste na prolaveis na prosgeiwtheis.
It depends on what motor you are using. If you are using the stock more you might want to look at a 40A but if you are changing out the motor then it might be more applicable.
hey ninjatech it is because you dont have the amount of power current as the redbrick and towerpro and turnigy i use a 100amp redbrick on my 450 v2 trex clone and it works great i just wouldent recomend using this esc for this purpuse
Thanks mate aaron 2233 this is the explanation i wanted , 20c for you .
I have the same 450 V2 clone : ) .
Let me ask you something the 9261000003 - HobbyKing 40A ESC 4A UBEC
would be good enough with the TY2215-3550 - Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2215H Heli Motor 3550 ?
I Have been impressed with this ESC, But in attemp to install into a new plane, i went into programming to turn brake off and once setting was selected, ESC Froze. Happen to anyone and has anyone a fix? I have attemped the basics of unfreezing the ESC in no avail. Anyone?
That i have tried, the moment power is applied, the same beep tone when froze is emitted. i have even gone as far as reseting the SIL F330 chipset. Once you release reset, again it goes back to the origenal tone when froze. The only thing i can think of is reprogramming of chip, but i do not have the equipment or program that was programmed into the chip. Over all, the price of new is far better then going through the trouble of getting this one reprogrammed. Thanks for the reply and if anyone does come across a fix, Please reply as it would be helpful. Thank
Sounds like you've run the gamut of possible solutions without completely tearing down the circuitry. At $16 for a new one, why keep messing with the old one? Life too short!!! Cheers!
I have Ran this ESC at a variable amp between 40 and 50 amps. using 4 cell lipos, running in 5-7 minute flights. I have ran over 10 flights with no issue till i went and reprogrammed the ESC with no brake and it froze in mid programming. I have been happy with this ESC and have purchased a second. I have Been In the RC field over 10 years and have found most ESC failures are due to improper setup though electonics are not perfect and cheep is cheeply made. I would say with this ESC, setup once with proper Watt/Amp meter and leave to it. Reprogramming could leed to chip freeze. Though i feel the freeze can be undone with the reprogramming of chip with the silicon labs programming kit at $80.00
The manual says: "If you are using more than ten NiMH/NiCad cells, more than 3 LiPo Cells, or your power consumption is excessive, you must disable the BEC and use a separate power source for the receiver." So I can´*t use my 4s with this controller and BEC?
You sure can as long as your servo power consuption is less then rated. Basicly the Higher the voltage and wattage used in your ESC, the less Amps produced through the BEC. so if your going to use this ESC with more then 2 Servos and a 4 cell lipo pulling over 80pcnt of your ESC rating, i would say it be risky of blackout on reciver and or power lose to servo. I have purchased this ESC and used it in a wing using 2 metal gear servos and 4 cell 2200 mAh battery and have seen great results, But at fu
ok, some user of this ESC use it with 4s AND BEC, but the manual says you shouldn´*t do it. I think I buy an other one with more BEC-power like "HK 60A ESC 4A UBEC". Thanks
I regularly used this without UBEC ... the built in BEC with 4S worked fine. That was on a hotted up 50mm EDF ... only reason ESC failed was the LiPo had a fault after a crash and fried ESC and motor before I could get to model ! Model had 3 9gr servos.
hello, I am very disappointed with this receiver, I applied this receiver in my glider and had many unpleasant surprises after by the model up there when I put the model with the front facing me will never have his command, the model is luckily doing loops after much trying I managed to pull the model up to land. summarizing this variable is not nothing at all desirable, and can only be the same drive as I previously had another drive and none of this happened, the receiver is a $pektrum DSM2 OrangeRx R610 6Ch 2.4Ghz Receiver (w / Sat Port) with OrangeRx R100 Satellite Receiver.
already ow like to have your opinions about what I can do.
auto translated? The ESC is very capable of around 50 amps draw for short periods and comes with 3.5mm sockets for the motor and XT60 on the battery end and standard servo connector. what it can do for you depends on your model, and your ability to apply it's abilities to your requirments.
This ESC Has very limited programming. The options to program is Battery Type, Brake Behavior, and Motor Direction. If you visit the Product page and scroll to the Reviews, there is a tab labeled "Files". click that tap.if you click on the file "HKESC Manual" it will open in adobe reader. if you dont have adobe reader please goto adobe**** and download for free. you can also right click on "HKESC Manual" and choose "Save Target As" to download to your computer for viewing later.
Hi again, One more question. Normally when a motor works with 4S batteries it says 14,8 Volts, but the battery gives up to 16.8 volts. Does the ESC reduce the Volts for the motor?
And what means "FET: Fairchild N Channel". Thx again.
well sort off. if you think about it to change the speed of the motor it varies the voltage and some other thing to change to motor speed. so at half throttle on the transmitter you have about 45pcnt of the overal power going in to the motor. also the battery will rub the servos and the reciver so there more power being drained.
Hi usually the motors are made to support lots of voltage variations, from what I know and have learn all this years the esc and the motor can support all that voltage but the problem is that you have it like in the full throttle it will begin a period which is call burst normally the esc can support that but just for seconds, this one is approximately 15 seconds, and after that it will heat up the esc and probably melt all the inside and solders (it can go around 300 degrees ) or it will slow d
FET stands for Field Effect Transistor, simply it's a transistor that uses electric fields to control the flow of electrons. "Fairchild N Channel" is just a brand name. The benefits of a Field Effect Transistor is that it has less noise effects than other types of transistors.
Hi, I´*m usig this ESC in my f-18 with 4s batteries and the motors have burnt up in less tah one minute. Dou you think it could be a problem of this ESC with 4s batteries? With 3s batteries there is no problem. In that case, what ESC should I buy? Thx and good flights.
It is very strange that the two engines burn at the same time. You should put that to see how engines are at full power consuming the two together. Also you should check the ESC separately to see if it delivers the power you say and not comuncado. If so change it to a 70 amp.
I didnt put the engines together. I have an F 18 with only one engine. They burnt one after the other in different days and that is what make suspect something wrong with the ESC. How can I test it to know how many volts is it giving?
are they EDF (duct fans) if so they may not be able to handle the voltage from the ESC but also the air flow throw the model may be to low casing thier to be heat up as the engines can't pull enuff air from the openings. if not try taking it all out and doing a bench test with volt meters and a thermometer to whach the temp and see if it work then.( will it is out try changing up and down the ESC scale to see if that make's a diference
The ESC only supplies the power that the motors are asking for. Either your motors weren't capable of taking the voltage you supplied or you were overloading the motors (which you checked with a wattmeter, didn't you?). To blame the ESC is as ridiculous as blaming the battery. It supplies to demand.
So, if the ESC is supposed to work with 4 S batteries end the motors are for 4S batteries too, they were damaged... The first motor flyed for two minutes, the second one in my hand making some test. Will you try with a third one? On the other side, I dont know how to test the watts. How can I do it with a polymeter?
It depends on the servos you are using. In general, fex the HXT900 sevos, this wouldn't be an issue. All big digital servos, you would have an issue. So for normal "light" use, you should be fine.
the whistle still warns that something is wrong. The only beep when you turn. Try to connect the esc to the receiver and then the battery. Then connect the control with the throttle stick to maximum. He will whistle the whistle and then you should put the stick in the minimum position. Hope that helps something.
It beeps once a minute to tell you that you've left it on! I've got two of these and they work perfectly yet still beep once a minute. i think it's an excellent feature that all ESCs should have.
Xt60 is on, but you can buy
Male T-Connector <-> Female XT-60 (1pc/bag)
PRODUCT ID: XTTA-601B
buy also
Male XT60 <-> Female T-Connector (1pc/bag)
to have both ways
I use it too.
Sally it is a Male XT60. So to adapt it to a battery with a T connector use Adapter: Male T-Connector <-> Female XT-60 (1pc/bag) SKU: XTTA - 601B. Hobby King recommend you use XT60. They are going that way with all their gear. So it may work better to consider changing. I hope this helps
It looks that I maybe bayed with buddy code, so no another buddy code. For searching buddy code see rc-buddy . com . Sorry for not getting it with buddy code.
hello friend, this is a good ESC for fixed wing planes. The factory break function is off , and you cant change this. When you are flying and turn off the power , the propeller will be free. Good flies.
I know it is good ESC, I use it on EPP FPV, it can be programmed BREAK ON and OFF through transmitter. I ask did someone use BREAK ON and what characteristic has it.
I've had the break function unknowingly on once (factory setting on a RTF plane). Result was several props spining off in the air. Not sure why you would ever want it on for an aircraft* maybe with a folding prop setup.
if you are flying a glider for instance, you will want a brake facillity so that the prop stops when soaring un-powered (when you move the throttle stick in off position), allowing the prop to fold by not windmilling
Even if you are not flying a glider, the brake function will also help because an induced spinning prop is more draggy than a still one(folding or not).
So actually your plane will brake when the ESC brake is OFF...
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When setting model up with throws, sevo direction etc. on bench (with prop removed) every thing was working OK but Esc was emitting a beep about every 30 secs. It did not seem to affect the workings of the unit. Any one know why this is happening? or why the beep sound is there? So far happy with the product. All plugs attached ready to go, but had to make XT60 to bullet connection for some older battery packs. HK needs to packet XT60 female plugs in case we need to change battery connections.
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With a 35 amps engine bought here, supposed to get nice running setup, this failed. The engine is crying like if poles where not well positionned, then after a quick throtle down and up, starts very quickly... Bes failed with only 4 servos attaches on it. Don't really know if would recommend it because never got a working well product. Semms that the ESC does not work well with some engine setups...
I had tested with arround 20A consuption and it barrely heat, very good ESC. Too ligtht, and include instructions detailed to programing with radio sticks method. For my use I will need each amper from these 50A, so I am thinking in improve the dissipation instaling a auxiliar metal base for better heat dissipation.
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the moment power is applied, the same beep tone when froze is emitted. i have even gone as far as reseting the SIL F330 chipset. Once you release reset, again it goes back to the origenal tone when froze. The only thing i can think of is reprogramming of chip, but i do not have the equipment or program that was programmed into the chip.
Over all, the price of new is far better then going through the trouble of getting this one reprogrammed. Thanks for the reply and if anyone does come across a fix, Please reply as it would be helpful. Thank
