Turnigy® TRUST SBEC ESCs have a very flexible and broadly capable MCU, able to run all types of brushless motors. The large heatsink and simple PCB layout make heat dissapation consistant, enabling the ESC to be run at its limit, without failure. The ESC is program-card and transmitter programmable with clear and easy to understand instructions included. Default factory settings are; Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor)
Spec. Max Motor Current: 70A Max BEC Current: 3A BEC Voltage: 5.5v (Switching) LiPo: 2~6S NiMH:5~16cells Weight: 65grams
got one of these esc and all I,m getting is ,is continuous beeping I,m using a G60 motor and a futaba radio no matter what position the throttle is in, it only beeps nothing else where am I going wrong please as I,ve bought 3 of these esc
Grimmy you have the exact problem that i do. I also bought the promaming card and even with that i can get a working controller. it only goes bep bep bep bep and nothing else. PLease keep me inform if some one helps you. axel2000_*hotmail**** from Monterrey Mexico
The three wires connecting to the motor from this esc are all black. On my old esc there were different colors showing which ones connect to the different wires on the motor. How do i know which wire to connect to the different wires on the motor for this esc? I would really appreciate it if someone answered me.
It doesn't matter which wire goes where with a three wire system. The only thing you will find is that the motor might rotate in the opposite direction to the one you want. This is easily corrected by swapping over the connection of any two wires, or alternatively change the programming of the esc. Hope this helps.
I am looking to upgrade my PZ T-28 by replacing the stock motor with a NTM Prop Drive Series 35-36A 1800Kv / 875w and this speed controller. I will also be using a 1800mah 3s battery. Will this work well? I would really appreciate it if someone answered me.
yes, why not! but look which motor a the best for your plan.... NTM Prop.... 35-36A or 35-36B.
the difference is the motorshaft. on the 35-36B is the shaft on both side.
i think the flyingtime is very short with 1800mah 3s. if it's possible... take a 2500mah or min. 2200mah
With this set up on the 13x10 prop you will draw up to 45amps and get up to 485 watts,so with a 5000mah battery this will give approx 6.5mins,longer with variable throttle settings.With the 14x6 the figures will be 39amps,422 watts,7.5mins.
Will be fine on 5cell, will auto detect the amount of cells, just plug and go but Programing card also available for $3 when bought together, makes programing brake and other stuff easier. Can be done with transmitter though.
The esc doesn't come with any plugs on the input side, you will need to solder a xt60 or 4mm bullet or deans depending on your chosen battery, check what's on the battery your planing to use then buy the connector for the esc mate.
I fly this with 6 cell. No need to program, but for special needs, like brake or others, it is very easy to program without any other equipment. A tone for each setting is easy to recognize even for me with no previous experience with ESC's
the manual in the Files section here does not have the same tones as my Turnigy Trust 70A ESC... do you have a better manual? My tone sequences are different so I don't know how to program it.
Thx for answers
Is this esc able to power 4 digital mg servos and motor on my fpv raptor?
The servos im using are Turnigy XGD-11MB Digital Mini Servo 2.2kg / 11g / 0.12 and the stock motor for for now but will upgrade motor soon and i use $pektrum ar6210 w/sat and 3s lipo.
I know its probably a bit over kill amps wise but im thinking about the bec, i don't fully understand becs and don't know if i should be using a separate bec? Also what is a switchable bec? Is this one as it says sbec?
Tx on and full throttle. Connect the RX and BEC (and engine, leave prop physically off) You get a confirmation tone that setup mode is entered. Immediately after this tone throttle down to zero. A new conformation tone sounds. Disconnect. Re connect this time throttle at zero. Turning the engine by hand you will have no doubt the brake is on or not.
Use AUTO or MED timing when you are running a low KV engine as the G32. Use HIGH timing when running a EDF ex Turnigy SK3 Fandrive. You can use this formula (Kv x Volts (nominal you are using) x Pole count / 20) to find the switching speed. Remember that a high switching speed will induce more heat to the ECS.
Use AUTO or MED timing when you are running a low KV engine as the G32. Use HIGH timing when running a EDF ex Turnigy SK3 Fandrive.
You can use this formula (Kv x Volts (nominal you are using) x Pole count / 20) to find the switching speed.
Remember that a high switching speed will induce more heat to the ECS.
It seems that my problem was not really timing related. I switched the G32 770kv motor that was making the noises with another G32 770kv I had and the problem went away. I suspect bad bearings but won't know for sure until I disassemble it. Nevertheless, THANKS!
Servo Power? I used the program card to set it then plugged it into ch 3 on the rx and connected my 2200mah battery to it. I get throttle response only but I did not get any servos to work, but when I plugged in a rx battery into the rx the servos all work. Is this normally the way this works? Is this sbec for motor control only?
no, I wonder if your RX has a special ch3? maybe it is not distributing the SBEC power.
The SBEC is designed to power a few servos. any more than 4 parkflyer servos (10-20g) and I would add a dedicated UBEC to be safe.
You can programme the Turnigy Trust ESC's by using the throttle stick on your transmitter.Click on the "Files" tab above and you can download or print a copy of the instructions that explain how to do this.
ATTENTION FOR ALL USERS: This ESC does not come with High Temperature Protection. My ESC burn my G.46 motor due to the very high discharge that came from batt. The soldering melt down but the ESC didnt do anything to prevent damage to the motor or the aicraft it self. I crashed my Piper cos once the soldering melt down the receiver stop working. ALWAYS choose ESC with protection features, like cut off engine or reduce power.
The heat sensors job is to detect high temperatures hence "heat sensor". That does not include the ability to detect excessive amp draw that exceeds the escs rated amperage. And the 70A TURNIGY TRUST ESC that i received worked flawlessly from over temp shut off to lvc settings. Have a nice day!
Depends how you were throttling it and what it was driving. An over propped motor can give say 45 amps w/recommended prop but when over propped by 10% give spikes atleast 40% higher depending on the adaptive timing in esc if any. These spikes won't cook the fets on this one it is well contacted w/heavy copper power rail in pcb layout it took a ton of heat to keep solder melted with true 70w gun. The spike current hit the solder first and if did over prop thats why
The solder meltdown after let's...say 1min at least on full throttle, i think within this time the heat sensor would turn on and shut the engine. However i have to highlight that i was using a battery with high output disharge 6S 40C-50C (my mistake). Nevertheless, i was using a recommended prop and a 50-55 engine which handles 6S at 45A. My point/question is, in what situation should i trust on Heat Sensor Protection.
I always test the power train setups with a watts-up meter before going to the field. I make sure my setup is not exceeding the motors max. As a matter of fact I try to stay well below that figure. To high of a current draw, like to high of a speed will get you every time. banjo742
When running Higher Voltage, your Watts can jump way faster than the response of any temperature sensor. This ESC is built using 600F rated solder. If you are getting it that hot maybe you need a different ESC.
Ok i've tested it with different batts and motors, still not playing tune. Tried different esc in plane that works 100%. So this esc faulty. One for the bin unless I pay £*10 to return it to HK!! I think I will put the £*10 towards a new esc and buy it in the UK.
NO it is not OK to use duck tape. You can use Polyester Velcro Peel-n-stick adhesive side to hold in place. Anyway keep in mind that it has to keep it in the air flow to keep it cool in order not to burn it.
I am composing a combination of this ESC, a Turnigy L5055B-600 motor, and 6 cells of type Zippy 4200 30C LiFe. I just received the motor and ESC, but I may have made a mistake! How, if at all, will this ESC handle LiFe batteries?
You should be fine with 19.8 volts. They claim to have a max rating of 22.2 volts. However it sounds like you are pretty close to max, you might wana cut some of the shrinkwrap off to expose the cooling fins on the esc n make sure it gets plenty of air.
Thank you for this answer. I know that I am close to ESC voltage limits. However, my problem is how to set up the ESC. How does this ESC detect LiFe and set the correct cell protection cut-off voltage. The user guidanse provided by H-King indicates that the ESC can be set to detect LiPo or NiCd/NiMh voltage and corresponding cell count. LiFe is not mentioned. My question is simply: How to set the ESC for LiFe detection and cell protection.
Voltage Limit is no problem. I am using one in my cnc Mill at 24V and another in a 6s LIPO driven Charter at 1KW. No problems so far. Both 45A versions. This one handles much more in a 1,50m CAP232. Never cut any shrinkwrap.
In modern time we use telemetrie for checking the batterie's voltage. Better leave a slightly rest in the battery to expand lifetime.
Hi. Does anyone actually know how this ESC functions in the NiCd/NiMh mode? Does it carry out a cell count in order to do low voltage protection, or does it take them down to some safe voltage to secure a safe BEC functioning? I ask this to make the best choice on battery chemistry when using LiFePo batteries.
Tengo el de 70A y tira muy bien, le he puesto un Motor 2215H, aunque an no consigo que funcione con la tarjeta programadora. Posiblemente necesita una tarjeta especifica. De fabrica viene configurado a 8KHz (puede cambiarse a 16KHz) por lo que se hecha en falta la opcion de 12KHz.
Very stable first phase of softstart in airplane mode. Have no issues in F3A plane on 5s with SK5055-580kV yet.
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comes with little 14 awg wire, de soldered those and added some 12 gauge with 4mm bullet connectors, added water cooling and put it in my pro boat miss geico cat. 3s with m445 prop got this esc up to 130 in 4-5 passes so about 1-2 min. i propped down to x437 and ran a few mmore laps, temps seemed ok 120 ish at the hottest point i could find. This esc is rated for 6s 70 amp but my caps blew on 4s and the 45 amp esc the boat came with could handle that load. No more then 3 min on 4s with 2300 kv inrunner on a very mild prop and this esc couldn't take it, i would get one of the plush series esc's instead. I think i'll be sticking to the marine versions now, though i had a problem with one of those too.