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Turnigy 130A Watt Meter and Power Analyzer
The TURNIGY watt meter is a very accurate R/C amp/watt meter.
Predict model airplane flight time with any given propeller. Ensure peak currents are safe for motor, ESC, wiring and connectors Check battery health and performance. Evaluate R/C battery charging efficiency. Choose the best propeller or gearing and the most efficient motor Check for wiring and connector power losses Measure power and energy consumption of ANY device with a battery
Spec.
Operating voltage: 4.8~60V (0V with optional auxiliary battery)
Hi all. The manual mentions that the wattmeter also can be used as a balancer: "balance battery cells". But the manual does not give details on how you can apply it to do that. Is it simply done by connecting the balancer between the charger and battery while charging the battery? And if so: how can you tell it actually balances the battery? Cheers!
Hello Bernhard12, this Power Meter does not have that capability. You can purchase a battery analyzer to check you pack's IR, and some chargers suck as the "iCharger 1010B " have the ability to take cell IR measurements. Best Wishes!
I wish to buy this wattmeter, to check my car brushless motor while running. The specs of my motor shows max current = 120A. What will happen if the current drawn increase higher than 130A for a while ? Wattmeter will die, burnt ? I guess there is no load protection in it.
Hello cannondale, if you plan to measure currents above 65 Amps, the manual states that test time should be reduced so that the power meter does not overheat. It could be surmised that since it's stated limit is 130A, currents above that point may lead to possible damage of the internal circuitry. Best Wishes and happy testing.
This watt meter of mine shows current display only in 2.56A step. Like 0.0A - 2.56A - 5.12A - 7.68A - 10.24A and no middle value like 0.5A or 1.0A... Have anyone experienced this trouble ? Is there any method to fix the problem ?
Mine is working perfect. You can see the A changing with small amount on my video GDuo8gmfn9k * 57 sec to 1,05 min.
It seems to be a specific failure on yours.
Just ordered, and I have to say I did my research on this meter... Basically if u own any large RC anything or need to meter any electronics outside of RC in general, this meter is it... This little meter can even run to meter turbines on aviation fuel 4 Christ sake... I know u can't go wrong with that in mind.. I then thought maybe this is too high to meter edf's? Nah, can also run prop planes or anything and it reads all stats on 1 screen not push a button to see each 1screen/ field ( 1 at a f****ing time) like eflites and it's not b/w read out either I'm glad Turnigy made this I did wonder what the 3 pins plug on the sides for?? Otherwise I'm using this for most of my jets.. Ltr Hk and to all thanks 4 reading my post sorry it's a long 1....
Anyone know what variable powersupply is being used to control the motor speed in the video entitled 'Testing Motor with Turnigy wat' under the 'files' tab? Thanks
I got Turnigy 130A watt metter today and I am very disappointed with it. When I plug it to a battery the unit still shows 2,57A with no LOAD!!! when load is for example 10A it shows 12,57A. Is there any way to reset it? or calibrate?
Does it just pop the instant you go over 130A, or will the max current just read 130A to let you know you went slightly past the max? I honestly have no idea how much current my 1/8 scale truck motor uses, all I know for sure is the ESC can handle well over 200A.
Cars/truck are complicated to measure. Normal amperage can range from 50-150A, and breaking, accelerating, and stalled amperage can range from 200-1000A I think. This meter can handle 65A continuous and 130A for about 5-10 seconds(reccommended) before the internal solder melts and/or the circuits burn. So, I would be careful about going over 130A.
I got my unit 2 1/2 years ago, used it only occasionally, and today it died on me.
Does anyone know if this is a reasonable lifetime for this item, or if it could have been my use of the item that killed it?
Lately, i'd been using it in between my charger and a car battery (while charging the car battery), so instead of hooking up a 'load' to the load side I was actually connecting quite a powerful battery. Could this have fried it? I've noticed it arcs considerably more with a car battery, i wonder if maybe the arcing burned out the capacitors. This could serve as a warning to anyone wanting to use this item on a solar or automotive setup
Sounds like you know what went wrong already! This is designed for RC use to test LiPos, wouldn't surprise me if automotive use would be too much for it.
I haven't seen the internals to know what topology is being used to measure the current flow (there are two ways it can be done) but most chargers do not supply over 15A during charging. If I understand this correctly, the load side is not designed to see a large back EMF like there would be with a battery connected to it. The other possibility is formed around the fact that many lead acid battery chargers do not supply a constant DC voltage, but rather a rectified DC voltage that pulses or is at least noisy. I would hope this isn't the case, but it may have overworked the meter's integral regulator.
Thanks for the reply Cody. I think you're spot on with the load side not being designed to see a large EMF, I was thinking I might be able to put a large capacitor on that end to protect it.
The battery charger I was using was a Turnigy 400w, not a car battery charger, so I don't think a pulsing DC current would have been the cause
Hello Dillzio, A low voltage high current power supply with adaquate filtering capacitance will also function the same as a large battery. The capacitance you will need to smooth the DC voltage under full load may be very high, and I would suggest a large transformer, rectifier bank and 1F (1,000,000uF) car audio capacitor would suffice. A high voltage small value film capacitor (0.22uF and 0.1uF paralleled should be adaquate) shunted to ground or the negative supply rail will suppress high frequency transients that may also be present. Lead acid battery chargers typically are not the cleanest power sources. Two parallel car or truck batteries with adequate fuse protection may be the lowest cost and safest method. I hope this helps, cheers!
I don't think we're talking about the same thing Cody. I think you're telling me how to use a car battery charger to power something that's sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
All I want to do is measure the power going into a battery from a battery charger. When I blew my wattmeter, I was charging a car battery with that on the wattmeter's load side, and my Turnigy 400w charger on the source side. When I connected the car battery it arced quite strongly, which is what I think fried the IC in my wattmeter.
I was thinking that if I put a 25v 3300UF low EMF capacitor on the wattmeter's load side it will protect the ICs?
I have to buy 2 more of this because I have used 1 on my 12v solar panel and this is cheaper and 130 amps and I need another for the main 24v solar system other for the hobby.. this is excellent to monitering 247 the solar panels and battery bank from the living room.
postage is taking long maybe lots of bad whether many parcels since november and december have not arrive yet,according to import if the value was above 100 euro yes you pay vat.if this changed I don't know yet.
Are we ever likely to see this meter in the Nederlands warehouse? The Portugese customs are now charging me 25% import duty on everthing from outside the E.U. They even include the shipping in this. :=(
Add in the 6~8 weeks that they take to make up their minds on how much they can charge you and it starts to get a little frustrating! They have had a parcel of mine since 6th Dec - now 11th Jan.
Well Norbique, it seems that we are not the only ones then. I think the customs find it easier to just take the total cost, that way the supplier cannot hide some of the actual cost in the shipping charge. Our customs really love the so called "Free Shipping" where the supplier hides his costs in the total price, Still no sign of my parcel as yet! :(
Hello. I received the mine last week and opposite to some comments I don't get any time measurement even if that feature is explained in the manual included. I think it could be more than one model and I received an old version.
My guess would be the current is being measured on the negative side. That looked like a shunt on the back side, and the circuit will measure the voltage drop across that shunt to give the amperage reading.
I want to get this for my boat, will it log for me, lowest volts, highest amps drawn during a run so I can see whats happening after?
thankyou, Tristan.
Does the meter conduct reverse current? If so what does it record? I want to use it on a battery charge/load circuit, there may be times when the current is reversed for periods. Thank you
I just tried to switch source and load and only. It is conducting but only voltage is measured... So maybe it is possible to use it in charge/load circuit, but only load current will be measured/recorded. Keep in mind that I did NOT designed this meter so I can't guarantee that is safe to switch charge/load wires!!!
This meter can only measure current flow in one direction but will allow current flow in both directions with ease.
On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking.
Let's try that again.
On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking.
Hopefully this will make more sense now, assuming the site has not edited it out again!
I don't understand why HobbyKing decided my original post contained a link.
Why aren't we allowed to use square brackets?
Third time lucky?
On my electric bikes I use two of these meters wired in series, but in opposite www.link meter on the battery side measures the Amps drawn (and Ahs consumed) by the motor under load, while the other meter shows the Amps being generated (and Ahs replaced) by the motor during regenerative braking.
Perhaps we are not allowed to use colons?
Hello, even the system support 130A, cables and circuitery. are not prepared.
I explain that, when the current in the conductor becomes bigger, the precision on the system gets worst. A wattmeter needs an internal resistence to work, and also there is some heat disipation, that makes your system to use less power than real (without the wattmeter connected).
Maybe its a difficult concept, but as a summary, it could resit big currents (A), but it will be not accurate for measurements at about 130A.
I hope this help you to your purpose. A deeper explanation can be given if needed.
Actually, such a great currents are measured with Hall effect sensors, which don't need the voltage drop at all.
About "less than real" - yes, some voltage will drop on wires of wattmeter. But, the same thing happens in your airplane. So more or less, the result will be very close to real life.
Accurate, measures 12.02v versus 12.04v from my Fluke 73 III meter. The only issue I have is that the display is very difficult to read. In the dark it is near impossible to see. With bright indoor light it can be read at an angle. To see the data clearly requires putting a flashlight directly on it. It has nowhere near the contrast as shown in the pictures.
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Overall Rating
rp181
24 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
4 thumbs up!
Great meter, had some problems at first, but it all worked out. Turnigy is a great company!
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