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New idea in ducted fans |
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Ken jack
Platinum (AU) USERID: 142032 Bargain Addict!
Joined: 26/Feb/2009 Location: BRISBANE AU Online Status: Offline Posts: 92 |
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Posted: 23/Jan/2010 at 3:11pm |
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Hi,Tommo,I think you may be wrong with your by-pass ratio, also i have considable experience in model and full size gas turbines.My idear for this ducted fan is from a RR high by-pass fan in an effort to reduce some of the reverse thrust in the fan design. A good read on this subject is the book THE JET ENGINE by ROLLS ROYCE .Regards Ken Jack
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tommo85
Platinum (AU) USERID: 279562 HobbyKing aficionado
Joined: 17/Jan/2010 Location: Brisbane Online Status: Offline Posts: 320 |
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Posted: 23/Jan/2010 at 3:29pm |
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correct me if i am wrong, but i was always under the impression that the main advantage of a bypass ratio was to put a lot more air out the back of the turbine unit, and only putting some of that through the burner cans. While this does have the consequence of decreasing the airspeed of the air coming out the back of the turbine. In sheer volume you can move more air, with the same level of fuel consumption.
I myself have thought several times of having two fans in the pods for ducted fan models, as it would greatly help each fan and lower the amount of strain on each motor. I think this is a great Idea. However having 4 fan stages as mentioned earlier in this post would be over board as basically all the inner two motors would be doing is nothing much more than spinning in the already moving air. The idea of counter rotating compressor wheels is really good, and i do believe that it has merit. Hence why i said that i would like to see some of your work and learn as much from you as possible.
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Blind Vision
Platinum (DK) USERID: 52464 Forum Admin
ADMIN Joined: 21/Oct/2009 Location: DK/Denmark, AMC Online Status: Offline Posts: 3804 |
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Posted: 17/Mar/2010 at 10:47am |
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hey Ken Jack
how are things going, any progress ? if you need help on sketching some of your concepts, your welcome to PM me - id love to help out. Troels / Denmark Edited by Blind Vision - 17/Mar/2010 at 10:47am |
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Doing some guerilla gardening... take a peek; http://www.facebook.com/groups/416558261701047/ lokal bustop infront of my flat
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Asad
N/A (N/A) USERID: 0 HobbyKing aficionado
Joined: 14/Apr/2009 Location: ISB, PK Online Status: Offline Posts: 1224 |
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Posted: 17/Mar/2010 at 12:47pm |
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A very interesting discussion...
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Arrow
Platinum (AM) USERID: 144834 Bargain Addict!
Joined: 05/May/2009 Location: Armenia Online Status: Offline Posts: 85 |
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Posted: 18/Mar/2010 at 12:07am |
Dear Ken jack,Hi Very interesting idea, that is why I want to say something, may be well know but I want to express my own opinion. First of all the EDF strucrure below that you explaned above is right one to increase the presure of liquid even if it is air.You will not incraese the speed. As you know , high Preasure Hydo pumps such as 24 and more bars has multi stage weels, but they are driven in one axis and by one motor. ################# V1 ##### N1 ##### N2 ########## N3 ---------> ---------> ########## ##### ##### ################ Second, you are right when telling that blades at stages shall become smaller in diameter and in the pitch. This is general structure of air jet turbines compressors. Now my suggestion and vision, may be a bit crazy but suggestion : ) try to insert between the ducts the "bee mesh" structure ( about 5-10mm wide) to get laminar air flow in front of every sucking entrance of ducts and avoid air cyclone at inlets.As far as you are using multi motors system and not able to sincronize the blades steps you are getting the air cyclone between ducts and that is why second and next stages motors getting more RPMs. Air cyclone creates the vaccumm effect at the ducts inlet. B.Regards Truly, Robert, Armenia |
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No problems,only solutions!
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Ken jack
Platinum (AU) USERID: 142032 Bargain Addict!
Joined: 26/Feb/2009 Location: BRISBANE AU Online Status: Offline Posts: 92 |
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Posted: 20/Mar/2010 at 1:00pm |
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Hi,to Blind vision,and also to Robert.First i thank bv for your offeras i would like to let people to know of success whith my modifications to edf.To clear up about my inlet swirl guides the airflow is directed finally to the same angle as the rotor blades much like the nozzle guide vanes in model jet engines which i have made many and turbine could operate without NGV but would only sustain and produce very little thrust.The reason for swirle guides work so well is air is delivered to fan face in a controlled manner.I have run my fans with and without swirl inlet and air noise at the front of fan is lower and is higher at rear.The thrust is higher and AMPs increase in about the same amount.
The coaxial fan will use no stators as they are not needed,and each rotor will have their own motors therefore there should be more work done in a smaller diametre,and possible higher eflux speed.Hope this helps ,regards to all Ken Jack |
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Finetuned50s
Platinum (US) USERID: 372968 Newbie
Joined: 11/Dec/2009 Location: Fl Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Posted: 25/Mar/2010 at 7:51pm |
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Ha Kenjack This is finetune. I thought up a way that maybe all things could be ballanced quickly. You need 6" of carbon fiber tube with OD that will fit the ID of what ever you are balancing. Then you will need round stirafoam corks or something very light that will fit the od of the carbon fiber tube. Like a saucer shape. Then you slip the prop or impellar to the center of the carbon fiber tube and lock it. Then put the flotation on the ends. Then just drop it in some water. Make sure there are no bubbles that will upset the ballancing. It should bring the heavy side of the prop/impellar to the bottom. I havent tried this yet but will soon. Finetuned50s. ROY
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Lakepond
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Finetuned50s
Platinum (US) USERID: 372968 Newbie
Joined: 11/Dec/2009 Location: Fl Online Status: Offline Posts: 18 |
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Posted: 25/Mar/2010 at 8:03pm |
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One more thing I left out. To check the ballance of the floats and carbon fiber tube you could glue one float to one end put the other on the other end then drop them in water then turn the unglued float untill they do not have any heavy side then mark the unglued floats position. Then continue with your ballancing. Hell I should patton this. Somebody probally already thought of this (My Luck). Finetuned50s ROY
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Lakepond
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Ken jack
Platinum (AU) USERID: 142032 Bargain Addict!
Joined: 26/Feb/2009 Location: BRISBANE AU Online Status: Offline Posts: 92 |
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Posted: 26/Mar/2010 at 10:52am |
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Hi ,Roy,Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us as this is what this thread is about.I have a very complex balancer i built some time back to balance gas turbine rotors and have since found it to work better on ducted fan rotors as they have a lower resonance speed which makes it a lot more accurate balance .most of my fans run very smoothly.I was going to make my balencer as a project on this site but felt it would be too complicated even whith help being offered by Mark D . Regards Ken Jack
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Blind Vision
Platinum (DK) USERID: 52464 Forum Admin
ADMIN Joined: 21/Oct/2009 Location: DK/Denmark, AMC Online Status: Offline Posts: 3804 |
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Posted: 26/Mar/2010 at 6:13pm |
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Now that sounds very interesting with that SUPER complex balancer (but DIY-able), i for one would like to see some pictures of it.
Thanks in advance. Would be nice for my next insane idea; a F-14 Tomcat, Depron/Glassfiber sandwich (non wood build) 120mm EDF size - approx size 2meters long and a little wider with wing spread out. |
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Doing some guerilla gardening... take a peek; http://www.facebook.com/groups/416558261701047/ lokal bustop infront of my flat
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